- Car CD doesn't play. - 6 Updates
- voltage of dimmer output not reading same on two different DVM's - 4 Updates
- Actual Use For The Scariac - 1 Update
| micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Apr 10 10:14PM -0400 The CD player in my car worked well 2 months ago but last week I just got Track Search, or Error, something like that. Changed CD, same problem Rest of radio works well. Bought a Maxell CD cleaner. Amazingly, it looks like a CD but has two little brushes on it. It's supposed to give audio instructions when you "play" it. How can it do this if the laser or receiver lens is too dirty to work? At any rate, I ran it 4 or 5 times and it doesn't say anything. Is that enough evidence to firmly conclude it's broken and cleaning won't help? The Maxell CD was 6 dollars, and got high Amazon ratings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000001OM5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 4.1 stars on 5700 ratings. They sell two others, Memorex and Optimum, for 10 and 14 dollars, also with high ratings. But isn't buying one of them throwing good money after bad? |
| "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Apr 11 01:42PM +1000 "micky" <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote in message news:fam47gpd1t0fc540metq5fk6hnd4ca2773@4ax.com... > At any rate, I ran it 4 or 5 times and it doesn't say anything. > Is that enough evidence to firmly conclude it's broken and cleaning > won't help? Very likely but not certain. Do you smoke ? If you do you may well find that you can open the player up and clean the lens with some isopropyl alcohol or just metho if you don't have that and get the muck that smokers produce off the lens. A brush wont do that. > They sell two others, Memorex and Optimum, for 10 > and 14 dollars, also with high ratings. But isn't buying > one of them throwing good money after bad? Really depends on whether you are a smoker or not. |
| rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Apr 10 10:58PM -0600 On 04/10/2021 08:14 PM, micky wrote: > They sell two others, Memorex and Optimum, for 10 and 14 dollars, also > with high ratings. But isn't buying one of them throwing good money > after bad? Yes. CD players are better than cassettes but they are still mechanical. I've disassembled one after a cleaning disc didn't work and found the problem was in the mechanism that positions the laser head. I think the current car does have a CD player but I use MP3s from a USB stick or Bluetooth from the phone for variety. Non-moving parts don't skip on rough roads. |
| Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Apr 11 09:40AM +0200 On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 13:42:30 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: > isopropyl alcohol or just metho if you don't have that > and get the muck that smokers produce off the lens. > A brush wont do that. IOW, you have NO idea what's wrong but you will run off at the mouth anyway in your known obnoxious senile manner, psychotic Mr. Know-it-all! -- Marland answering senile Rodent's statement, "I don't leak": "That's because so much piss and shite emanates from your gob that there is nothing left to exit normally, your arsehole has clammed shut through disuse and the end of prick is only clear because you are such a Wanker." Message-ID: <gm2h57Frj93U1@mid.individual.net> |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 11 07:41AM -0700 On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 10:15:11 PM UTC-4, micky wrote: > little brushes on it. > It's supposed to give audio instructions when you "play" it. How can it > do this if the laser or receiver lens is too dirty to work? When you put the CD in, the CD spins, the laser sled goes looking for a reflective surface and then tries to focus on it. During this time, the spinning CD is brushing up against the lens even if the unit is not in "play". > At any rate, I ran it 4 or 5 times and it doesn't say anything. > Is that enough evidence to firmly conclude it's broken and cleaning > won't help? Waste of time. Dirty CDs don't work one day and not the next, unless there was a substantial influx of dust and dirt blown into the mechanism. Auto CDs in particular are fairly well protected against this. If your CD stopped playing suddenly, something happened to it. First guess is a slipping loading or sled belt. I don't work on CDs any more, but when I did, dirty lens usually resulted in a complaint of erratic skipping or muting, and even then, it pointed more to a weak laser than a dirty lens. Cleaning the lens used to buy some time at best. |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 11 07:45AM -0700 On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 3:40:47 AM UTC-4, Peeler wrote: > On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 13:42:30 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent > Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: ... > nothing left to exit normally, your arsehole has clammed shut through disuse > and the end of prick is only clear because you are such a Wanker." > Message-ID: <gm2h57...@mid.individual.net> Wow, your monthly friend visiting this weekend? If you have a problem with the poster, take it off group. No one here is interested in your whining. I don't know either one of you, but just from reading your post and his, it's you who sounds like the fool. |
| "Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Apr 10 10:04AM -0700 let's say the following: TRMS meters generally have AC and AC+DC modes, but usually your interested in the AC portion. The TRMS voltage of a waveform will have the same heating value of a DC voltage set to the TRMS value. AC meters have a frequency response. They also might be limited by the crest factor of the waveform. There were thermal AC TRMS meters at one time. Non TRMS meters are what you might call. Average reading, TRMS responding. What does that mean? Take line voltage of 120 V 60 Hz sine wave. It flips the voltages below zero (i.e. precision full-wave rectify and it averages. Throws it into a capacitance filter. The result is the average value. The meter then multiplies that average value by a constant so it reads the RMS value of the hypothetical sine wave. The meter basically assumes it's being fed a sine wave, averages whatever it gets and multiplies by some k. if you feed it a 60 Hz sine wave, you will get out the RMS value of the sine wave. We talk about average, but the average of a typical sine wave is zero. it's really the average of the absolute value.of the waveform. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 10 01:18PM -0700 Ron D. wrote: ============= > let's say the following: > TRMS meters generally have AC and AC+DC modes, but usually your interested in the AC portion. ** Not true. The reason for needing a true RMS value is to predict heating in a resistance or maybe a fuse . So you cannot omit the DC component. > AC meters have a frequency response. ** But DC ones do not and so are all the same. > We talk about average, but the average of a typical sine wave is zero. ** Correct. Standard AC meters show the "average *rectified* value " scaled up by 11% to the RMS for a sine wave. ..... Phil |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 10 11:26PM -0700 > ** You are not paying proper attention. > DC voltage and true RMS voltage are equivalent. > DC meters read the average, DC value of a wave. The voltage, though, for an LED lighting system is NOT proportional to current; it's the current average that makes the light output bright or dim. Neither average DC nor RMS are suitable measures unless it's on a CURRENT scale rather than voltage. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 11 12:01AM -0700 whit3rd wrote: ================ > proportional to current; it's the current average that makes > the light output bright or dim. Neither average DC nor RMS > are suitable measures unless it's on a CURRENT scale rather than voltage. ** As previously posted *here* by me - the *power* delivered by a DC source is: I average x DC voltage. A moving coil DC meter or regular DMM will show you both. Do the math any way you like. ...... Phil |
| "jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Apr 10 10:16AM -0700 >Of course, he totally missed the concept of a dim bulb >tester. Nobody said he was a tech, so you're probably right. But the thing does act as a rheostat. I think it could come in handy for tube equipment. There are also those Sony amps with the VFETs that will fry on a DBT. I was thinking about when you have lots of current overhead, like lighting the filaments of a bunch of tubes. The bulb would probably go across the liquistat. (<add to spellcheck) Then even on solid state ones you can laeae the stat open and run through the bulb, When you want to crank it up and see how it does on more power, the light gets bright of course, this is where you would engage the liquistat. That would be good on a receiver or amp with remote control because the line voltage to it might get too low and then the damn thing shuts off. |
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