- Is there any "market" for old electronics, even for free? - 2 Updates
- Need schematic for Radio Shack Optimus SSM-1750 Mixer - 1 Update
- What is this stuff? - 8 Updates
- Need schematic for Radio Shack Optimus SSM-1750 Mixer - 1 Update
Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: May 30 12:47PM +0100 In article <6sf4bg5vmpgjk0jdolr61a8vhma0g6st12@4ax.com>, news@spaced.me.uk says... > Cheers, T i m > p.s. Do you sail and if so what OOI? Dinghy sailor and son of a Shell > Tanker Capt here. ;-) 2020 is the first year since 1974 that I have not been able to go on a sailing holiday somewhere warm in the Summer! But it is decades since I owned a sailing dinghy and have never owned any other boat. You certainly know about the extremes! "OOI"? |
T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: May 30 04:45PM +0100 On Sun, 30 May 2021 12:47:54 +0100, Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote: <snip> >> Tanker Capt here. ;-) >2020 is the first year since 1974 that I have not been able to go on a >sailing holiday somewhere warm in the Summer! Shame. ;-( > But it is decades since I >owned a sailing dinghy and have never owned any other boat. So you rent / charter something and if so what sort of thing? >You >certainly know about the extremes! ;-) >"OOI"? Sorry, 'Out Of Interest'. Cheers, T i m |
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: May 30 09:59AM -0400 On Sat, 29 May 2021 22:38:19 -0500, Unlisted <unlisted@nomail.com> wrote: >SSM-1750 Replacing the transformer should be pretty simple, as it only has to supply one audio board. Check for regulators on the board. Commonly +-15V 3term. A 27V or 30V centertapped winding (2x13V5 or 2x15V) should provide +/- 18V to 21V after the rectifiers, to feed those. You could temporarily substitute a bench supply, to see if there was a major supply problem. The aux lamp connector seems to expect 12Vdc. Once it's running, you'd know if it actually needs more in-depth repair. RL |
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: May 29 05:55PM -0400 Someone on Freecycle gave me a nice tv, pretty old, but comelete with owners manual and remote control. The remote works fine except for the buttons used the most, volume up and down, channel up and down, power, and muting. I took it apart and expected to find oxidized contact points, but no. Instead those buttons, on the circuit board and on the buttons, are shiny and a little bit sticky. I forced myself to taste it, but I don't taste anything. 3 other buttons have a little of those, but no more than 4% of any button. What is this, how does it get in there, and [what do I do about it}? I have DeoxitIT, what I've read is the best, but I guess I've never used it before, and it didn't remove the stickiness. Not only that, these contacts aren't copper-colored, and as the name impplied, it's really to remove and prevent oxidization, so I switched to isopropyl alcohol and that did a good job. So I know what to do about it, but what is that stuff? Finger oil? |
Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: May 30 01:36AM +0100 In article <grb5bghglhuog6va9id0b28aak632r957k@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 @fmguy.com says... > Instead those buttons, on the circuit board and on the buttons, are > shiny and a little bit sticky. I forced myself to taste it, but I don't > taste anything. [snip] > So I know what to do about it, but what is that stuff? Finger oil? I don't think I'm capable of feeling enough curiosity to taste a substance I found inside someone else's remote control. I'd bet on something like a spilled drink of some kind, KFC/pizza grease, or some other such residue from someone's movie-night snacks. R |
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 29 06:27PM -0700 On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 2:55:31 PM UTC-7, micky wrote: > contacts aren't copper-colored, and as the name impplied, it's really to > remove and prevent oxidization, so I switched to isopropyl alcohol and > that did a good job. The liquid (I think) is a plastic component intended to keep it flexible; a 'plasticizer'. Lots of plastic formulations 'sweat' this stuff, and isopropyl is a good solvent for it. Glycerine, too, should work. DeOxit formulations DO enhance contact, it's worth applying after cleaning. |
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: May 30 11:40AM +1000 micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote > but comelete with owners manual and remote control. > The remote works fine except for the buttons used the most, > volume up and down, channel up and down, power, and muting. That's pretty common with older remotes. > I took it apart and expected to find oxidized contact points, They are normally gold plated so don't oxidise. > but no. Instead those buttons, on the circuit board > and on the buttons, are shiny and a little bit sticky. Likely someone managed to spill something on the remote. > I forced myself to taste it, but I don't taste anything. Likely because it has been there a while. > 3 other buttons have a little of those, > but no more than 4% of any button. > What is this, how does it get in there, Likely someone spilt something on the remote. > and [what do I do about it}? Wash it off. > I have DeoxitIT, what I've read is the best, but I guess I've > never used it before, and it didn't remove the stickiness. Not surprising that it didn't. > prevent oxidization, so I switched to isopropyl > alcohol and that did a good job. > So I know what to do about it, but what is that stuff? Finger oil? More likely spilled drink. Finger oil isnt sticky. |
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: May 30 01:10AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 May 2021 11:40:21 +1000, "Rod Speed" >That's pretty common with older remotes. >> I took it apart and expected to find oxidized contact points, >They are normally gold plated so don't oxidise. They weren't that either. Everything was black, but not solid black. Lines in some pattern that filled the cirular area that matched the button. >> and on the buttons, are shiny and a little bit sticky. >Likely someone managed to spill something on the remote. >> I forced myself to taste it, but I don't taste anything. I didn't like tasting it, expecially since I was sick two nights ago but I figured a little bit couldn't kill me. The guy who gave it to me seems like a very clean guy! >Likely someone spilt something on the remote. >> and [what do I do about it}? >Wash it off. I went back and put that in brackets after I figrued out what to do. ;-0 >> I have DeoxitIT, what I've read is the best, but I guess I've >> never used it before, and it didn't remove the stickiness. >Not surprising that it didn't. Before I took it apart, I figured DeoxitIT was what it needed, and I was a slow to change plans. But as to something spilled on it, I don't see how that could be since the buttons affected were at 4 corners of the remote with lots of buttons in between, unblemished rows and columns in between. Only the controls people use a lot, plus Mute, were dirty. It must have to do with normal use. |
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: May 30 06:43AM +0100 micky wrote: > what is that stuff? Finger oil? I've always assumed so, combined with whatever gets spilled on remotes, I'd never taste my own remote juice, let alone someone else's, yesh alcohol usually works (vodka if necessary and doing it for a favour when away from home) |
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: May 30 05:11PM +1000 micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote >> micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote >>> Someone on Freecycle gave me a nice tv, pretty old, >>> but comelete with owners manual and remote control. Whats the brand and model ? > They weren't that either. Everything was black, but not solid black. > Lines in some pattern that filled the cirular area that matched the > button. That's normal, the button end that touches those electrically connects those lines. They should be two separate electrically separate lines, usually each set joined at one end of each set with the lines interspersed >> Likely someone managed to spill something on the remote. >>> I forced myself to taste it, but I don't taste anything. > I didn't like tasting it, Yeah, specially if the previous owner had been into the porn channels. > But as to something spilled on it, I don't see how that could be since > the buttons affected were at 4 corners of the remote with lots of > buttons in between, unblemished rows and columns in between. It might well be that that proves it was a spill because the rubber buttons are usually in a mat and the spilled liquid could only get around the corners of the mat. > Only the controls people use a lot, plus Mute, were dirty. > It must have to do with normal use. Not necessarily with the buttons on the corners. But its possible it is plasticiser out of the buttons. >>> alcohol and that did a good job. >>> So I know what to do about it, but what is that stuff? Finger oil? >> More likely spilled drink. Finger oil isnt sticky. But plasticiser can be. |
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: May 30 10:23AM +0200 On Sun, 30 May 2021 11:40:21 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: <FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest trollshit> -- Richard addressing senile Rodent Speed: "Shit you're thick/pathetic excuse for a troll." MID: <ogoa38$pul$1@news.mixmin.net> |
Unlisted <unlisted@nomail.com>: May 29 10:38PM -0500 I have a Radio Shack SSM-1750 mixer. The primary winding of the power transformer is open. The secondary has two windings. One is blue-black blue (centertap). That feeds power thru a bridge rectifier to the whole unit. The other windings are two brown wires that go to a diode and cap. All that does is feed power for an optional panel light. But I cant find any schematics online. I spent hours looking. Just owners manuals that are pretty useless. So I dont know what voltaqe transformer is needed for the main CT secondary. (The light one I can live without) A sticker on the trans reads. 059-154. Its a nice mixer. Id like to fix it. Can anyone help? WHATEVER HAPPENED TO ALL THE RADIO SHACK ONLINE MANUALS? ARENT THEY ARCHIVED SOMEWHERE? |
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