- Sony Bravia solarized image - 3 Updates
- 1/4 " phone plugs loose. - 1 Update
| "Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Aug 11 12:35PM +0200 I'm repairing a friend's Sony Bravia (KDL-37V5500). The first minute after powering up the image is OK, but after the first minute the image gets solarized (whites go saturated, some parts become yellow, there is a faint red border around bright parts). The power supply and the backlight look OK, so I suspected about the T-CON and used freeze spray over it. No changes until the local power supply IC (ROHM BD8160EFV) died in short. A new IC is on the way, but I have two questions: - Where is the original fault? - Is freeze spray so dangerous (it goes to -19 ºC, and the IC is specified to -40 ºC)?. I have used it many times without damages. TIA -- Saludos Miguel Giménez |
| Rob <nomail@example.com>: Aug 11 04:39PM +0200 > - Is freeze spray so dangerous (it goes to -19 ºC, and the IC is > specified to -40 ºC)?. I have used it many times without damages. Freeze spray can cause condensation of water, and may cause conductive paths to appear where they previously weren't (like when getting water damage in your laptop or phone). That can blow up things, yes. Freezing a powersupply IC or circuit is also dangerous in that it may cause the voltage to shift, and thus the powered circuits to be blown up. |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 11 08:31AM -0700 On Wednesday, August 11, 2021 at 6:35:38 AM UTC-4, Miguel Giménez wrote: > -- > Saludos > Miguel Giménez Your original fault is most like the AS15 IC. There are several variants and some of them are all plastic while some have a metal belly pan for ground and heatsink. If yours has the belly pan, you must use hot air to get it out. What I do is put chipquik on the IC, if it floats off the board, replace with a plastic version. If it won't budge, break out the hot air to flow the solder under the chip. Replace with a metal back version. As to why the other IC failed, are you sure it shorted? If the AS chip shorts, it will put the power converter IC into shutdown. Try removing the AS15 and see if the power IC outputs properly with no load. |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Aug 10 11:24AM -0700 On Tuesday, August 10, 2021 at 1:31:58 AM UTC-4, David Farber wrote: > Thanks for the details about the Switchcraft plug. I think it's worth a > couple of extra bucks to get a part that will stand up to some heavy use > and some rough handling too. They always served me well. Some dislike their product line because you need a 1/8" screwdriver to open their XLR cable connectors, but they were a huge improvement over both Amphenol and the original Cannon designs were the screws weren't captive. I've had people tell me that Neutrik were better, but they only clamped the cable, there was no strain relief. I was in the sound rental business. Some of our cables were so old that the rubber jackets were cracking but the Switchcraft connectors were moved to more modern cable as they were retired. Some of out 70V speaker cables were 250 feet long. They were made with Belden ribbed cable that didn't twist, We would take a step backwards as each turn was wrapped around your hand and elbow to pull the cable towards you. The coil would lay completely flat, after that, and could be quickly laid down by dropping loops as you walked away from one spot to the next. I had three high school graduations, in three cities one day. I did all three with one system, and two helpers. It would have been impossible with low grade cables. Sadly, Belden no longer makes that grade of ribbed cable. It was used on many power cords used by HP and Tektronix. I lucked out recently and bough 25 new six foot ribbed replacement power cords on Ebay for under $2 each. They will replace the power cables n a lot of my older test equipment. |
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