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"Dušan Köszeghy" <dusan.koszeghy@gmail.com>: Aug 27 09:18AM -0700 > Will update the post when I get the spares. > Best regards, > Rupert   Hello Rupert, how did it work? I have same issue. First of all. i have UD-M30 on which the tray would not open. I found sort of loosen rubber belt. Replaced it and everything was ok. then, as we dont listen to cds very often, it got loosen again (the belt) and i decided to replace it as i had same from previous purchase. Found out that after inserting cd it does not spin. Only spin it does for like a second is when i switch to CD from previous TAPE source.   Meanwhile i ordered the whole mechanism, so perhaps it will help.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 26 12:55PM -0700 > The easiest thing to have the customer check is the sound of the protection relay releasing/engaging. Turn on the unit and listen for a click. If none, then there is a problem with the output section and the protection circuit is engaged preventing the speakers from connecting. This can be caused by many things in the output section.   > When you get this for repair, look at the driver ICs (uPC1298V) for poor connections. This is a common failure point. Check any voltage regulators for poor connections as well.   > Dan ____   On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:44PM -0700 Chris K-Man wrote: ===============   > On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with > pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, > after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?   ** The first click is the power relay - it turns on the main PSU. The second is the muting/ protect relay.   BTW brand names are not models and models all differ.       ...... Phil

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 26 02:48PM -0700 In article <7a578025-ca3f-450c-aa4f-dd44cc3e074fn@googlegroups.com>,   >On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with >pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, >after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?   Probably, yes. The first "click" would be a relay closing in the primary AC-power circuit, turning in the main power supply to the tuner and preamp and the amplifier. The second "click" would be the output (speaker-protection) relay closing, connecting the amplifier output to the speakers. This approach protects the speakers, and eliminates any bothersome "POP" when the DC power comes on.   In most such designs, the second "click" won't happen if there's been a failure in the amplifier or power supply circuit which would allow damaging DC voltage to be sent to the speakers. It can also happen as a result of a problem in the circuit which detects such failures.   A few years ago I diagnosed a huge Heathkit amplifier which wouldn't make music... the output relay never operated and the red "FAULT" light stayed on. It turned out to be a simple matter... a tiny (1/8-ampere) fuse providing power to one channel's input circuitry had opened up due to old age, and this created a DC-voltage fault that was caught by the protection circuitry. Simply replacing the fuse fixed the problem.   Another possible problem can be the relay itself - sometimes the contacts get dirty or arc-damaged, and won't make a proper circuit. This _usually_ seems to happen on only one channel, not on both at the same time... replacing the relay is the best solution in these cases.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Aug 27 04:47AM Sorry for jumping into a continuing thread, but I 've had trouble with Onkyo an receiver, but I found a very interesting thing: they can heal themselves. The tuner on my first Onkyo failed. Since everything else worked I put the receiver aside and bought a new Onkyo. After a couple of weeks I decided I wanted to swap it out for a Denon. So I packed up the new Onkyo, and before I could return it I went back to the old Onkyo and the tuner was working, as was everything else. The tuner healed itself by sitting idle for a couple of weeks. Sometime later the sound went out, and this time I just unplugged the unit for a couple of days and, again the unit worked fine.   I still have the Onkyo, but I did switch to a Denon because I got a 4K display.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 10:18PM -0700 root wrote: ========= ------------------------------------------------------------------   ** That is called an " intermittent fault " in the repair business.   When the unit works fine most of the time, they are often near impossible to track down.     ..... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 11:50PM -0700 On 2021/08/26 10:18 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:   > ** That is called an " intermittent fault " in the repair business.   > When the unit works fine most of the time, they are often near impossible to track down.   > ..... Phil   Indeed!   I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents - it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder (the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.   Other times not so lucky.   John :-#)#

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 12:31AM -0700 John Robertson wrote: ===================== > (the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection > causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This > was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.   --------------------------------------------   ** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".   Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke". This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground. One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.     .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 27 08:45AM -0700 On 2021/08/27 12:31 a.m., Phil Allison wrote: > This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground. > One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.   > .... Phil   We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then dim as the caps charge.   Regulated power supplies are the technicians friend - where you can dial up the current available...   John :-#)#     -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

None <none@nospam.invalid>: Aug 26 04:46PM -0500 On Wed, 25 Aug 2021 12:09:38 -0700, thekma # shortbus.edu   > Good call - Someone finally bit at your troll bait. You must be so prou   > So how can I, among many people, help turn the tide against > public acceptance of such a garish factory image - be it Home or > Store mode?   Maybe by obsessive trolling on Usenet, getting maybe a single hit every three or four years? That's not a smart way to achieve your goal, but you're not a very smart retard.   > How to educate them otherwise?   Definitely by ko0k-dansing on a usenet hobby horse. Yeah, that's the ticket! That's the way to reach the masses! At least usenet trolling won't get you kicked out of restaurants and TV stores for being an obsessive douche bag.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 27 08:21AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:46:42 PM UTC-4, None wrote: > ticket! That's the way to reach the masses! At least usenet trolling won't > get you kicked out of restaurants and TV stores for being an obsessive > douche bag.   Dude, you need help, and I mean bad. The best advice would be to just let your hate go. Not only is that guy living rent free in your head, he's using your utilities at no charge. I'm serious. The only reaction you're getting with your trolling rants is either laughter or pity. Think about it

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 27 08:25AM -0700 On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 3:09:41 PM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote:     > I would estimate, since the mid-2000s, that millions of consumers > automatically associate such overblown settings with HD and or 4K. > How to educate them otherwise?   Why? They're happy with those crappy settings. Ignorance is bliss - let them be I say. Those settings are hard for me to watch, but I don't think anyone who likes cartoonishly bad video would listen to me, you, or anyone anyway. It was the same with the "sizzle and boom" smiley face audio graphic equalizer settings.

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Aug 26 11:30AM -0700 I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house. An inexpensive tone generator would work but I don't have one. Any recommendations for an inexpensive one? or alternatives? I rigged a 1.5V battery holder with alligator clips to be used in conjunction with a modified LED 'probe' flashlight which will work. Looking for alternative ideas. I did make a 'break out box' for the rj45 and rj11 sockets where needed. Thanks j

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 11:57AM -0700 On 2021/08/26 11:30 a.m., three_jeeps wrote: > I did make a 'break out box' for the rj45 and rj11 sockets where needed. > Thanks > j   If you have an old portable AM radio you can whip up an electrical noise/spark generator that you hook to one end of the wire then track it through the house using the radio.   Not so many hand held radios lying around these days though...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Aug 26 09:56PM +0200 > noise/spark generator that you hook to one end of the wire then track it > through the house using the radio.   > Not so many hand held radios lying around these days though...   At work, we have a device that works like that. It contains a kind of AM radio at one end and a simple "transmitter" (AM modulated generator) for the other end. You clip the transmit side to a cable and it is able to detect the other end of the cable within like a 10cm (4") range.   It is intended to find connection points on MDF/LDF, network patch panels, etc etc.   Indeed it should be possible to build something like this yourself, or simply use a radio and a "short range AM transmitter" module.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:48PM -0700 three_jeeps wrote: ===============   > I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house.   ** Did you mean * identify* cables or find the actual path ?   > An inexpensive tone generator would work but I don't have one.   ** What would you do if you did?   Why not use a AA cell and an LED ?     ...... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 27 07:04AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 2:30:11 PM UTC-4, three_jeeps wrote: > I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house.   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-and-Probe-Tester-and-Tracer-Kit-VDV500-705/311456018   https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tone+and+probe+tester&crid=3972PA7CBL6GT&sprefix=tone+and+prombe%2Caps%2C152&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_15   No further than your local big-box and/or Amazon.   Why go with a kluge when the real thing (and all the associated reliability thereto) is readily available?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Yaseen Ansari <yaseenansari1@gmail.com>: Aug 26 05:24PM -0700 On Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:58:30 AM UTC-7, JA wrote: > hex) or helping me finding a tool to do this? > Best Regards > AC     Hi, I am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   YA

Donald Duck <donald.duck@disney.com>: Aug 27 02:15AM > I > am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   > YA   Idiot google grouper.   The article to which you replied was written twelve (12) years ago.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 10:06PM -0700 On 2021/08/26 5:24 p.m., Yaseen Ansari wrote: > I > am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   > YA   Yaseen, there are DOS based programs for binary/Hex file splitting with respect to EPROM programming. Can't recall the name but a bit of searching should lead to the answer. This was talked to death back in the late 90s and early 00s, so you should be able to track it down.   12 years is not a record for oldest Usenet post responded to!   John ;-#)#

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 26 12:53PM -0700 This had some battery leakage and the resultant corrosion opened some fine traces on the bottom side of the board, but there are also a small handful of smd devices that were also damaged and I can't read the print on them. I don't know the "series" of this unit, but the schematic I need would have a CA3080E in location U905 near the battery door. Any help appreciated.

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