- Whirlpool direct drive washer with fast spin issues. - 5 Updates
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David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 08 03:23PM -0700 I have a Whirlpool GSQ9300EQ0 direct drive washer. The date stamp says it's from 1998. In the past, the only thing that ever failed on it was the motor coupler. About every two or three years, I replace the coupler and all is normal again. We do some heavy loads in our household so that is not unexpected. The new issue that cropped about a year ago was that the clothes were very wet after the final spin cycle. I did my diligent youtube viewing and suspected the clutch was bad. At first, I removed the old clutch, sprayed the clutch pads with brake cleaner, reinstalled everything and it worked fine for about 6 months. Then the washer landed back in the no spin zone. This time, I ordered a new (non-OEM) clutch and it worked fine for two loads and it stopped spinning again. I returned the clutch for a refund and put the old clutch back in after cleaning it again and it worked for a couple of months... and then it failed again. This time, I ordered the heavy duty, 6-pad, OEM clutch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRW32D (the old one was the 3 pad type) and installed it two weeks ago. And of course after a couple of successful wash cycles, the washer doesn't spin again. If we remove some of the heavier clothes, it will spin up as usual. By the way, during my many clutch changes, I've never noticed any oil leaks. For the first 20 years we owned the washer, this failure never happened and I'm thinking the clutch may not be the problem. I did some more research on how the transmission, motor, brakes, and clutch all operate and I have some questions: Does the clutch pad assembly actually turn the basket? If so, does the basket drive link up with the hooks where the spring keeps the pads flush against the disc? (The next time the basket doesn't spin, I know I need to look at the clutch disc and see if it's spinning rather than just lighten the load until the basket spins again.) One mechanic uses a water bottle to squirt water on the clutch and says, "If the water boils or smokes like this, the clutch is slipping and you need to check it out." Makes sense to me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q942xn_2VXY (at the 1:25 mark) Also, there are several videos explaining how the neutral drain works and what happens when it fails. Supposedly when it fails, the basket will spin when it's not supposed to during the drain cycle. I was wondering, can the neutral drain assembly fail with the opposite symptom? Can the transmission get stuck in the neutral drain mode and not advance to the spin mode? The last time I replaced the clutch, I made sure the brakes were not jammed and that the shoes moved easily. They were OK. I checked the lid switch to make sure that wasn't reading a high resistance. It was reading 0.2 ohms which is the same reading I get when I touch my meter probes together. I'm running out of ideas here. It doesn't make sense to me that two new clutches won't even last through 5 loads of wash. Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 08 06:33PM -0400 On 9/8/2021 6:23 PM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA David, First I don't know!! However, check the "Out of Balance" switches to verify they have the .2 Ohms and that they are not stuck in wrong position. Don't ask me why, just check it!!! Les |
David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 08 07:15PM -0700 On 9/8/2021 3:33 PM, ABLE1 wrote: > Don't ask me why, just check it!!! > Les > Hi Les, I cannot find any information about an "Out of Balance" switch for this model. Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 09 08:08AM -0400 On 9/8/2021 10:15 PM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA David, Don't know your model but there should be a "Out of Balance" switch or two or not. If there is it may be the issue. If there isn't then it is not the issue. Good Luck, Les |
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 09 05:15AM -0700 What comes immediately to mind is that there must be some sort of magnet or solenoid that engages the clutch, with 0-voltage being the 'release' (freewheeling) state. Should there be some resistance in that contact - or dirt, or a bad relay, that may be enough to cause what you describe. When everything is pristine, even a low-pressure 'grip' is enough. But a few uses, and a bit of glaze on the clutch, and you are back to slipping. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
Guy Patterson <str00ntz@aol.com>: Sep 08 12:45PM -0700 On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 10:59:48 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > spavined two-or-three wheeler... At the same time, were he not obsessed with counting pennies and imagined slights, it may improve his mood, So, more 'power' to him. > Peter Wieck > Melroes Park, PA ha!, had to google drongo. I'm guessing you're going by the slang and not the bird although I guess either would fit phil. |
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