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Hubert Aubin <hubertaubin5678@gmail.com>: Jul 25 06:44PM -0700 > Hope this is helpful.   > Sincerely,   > Charles Lucas   I don't have a mixer but tried by connecting direct to speakers but nothing happened. Also noticed that when a CD is loaded, the CD seems to speed up and slow down. Thanks, Hubert

Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com>: Jul 25 07:05PM -0700 > Also noticed that when a CD is loaded, the CD seems to speed up and slow down. > Thanks, > Hubert   For the purpose of clarification:   These can take speakers as well, but it has to be done differently. The mixer allows you to obtain all of the functions or modes. These devices usually require a mixer for that type of flip flop mode. If you cannot reset the device without the aid of a mixer (nor are able to obtain a mixer), you may have to clear the main microprocessor controller by depressing the relay button, or you may have to replace the relay. In extreme cases, replace the main micro. By pressing the relay button, it may mean to hold the button down until relay shuts off. There are few occasions when the momentary push is ok. I am just saying that to get out of that mode you may have to hold the relay button for a few seconds. People get confused on button presses as these things are generalized in user manuals.   Click on this link below and then read and follow the instructions. It says deactivate "flip-flop" by pushing the relay button. Make sure you are in single mode and not continuous mode when connected to speakers.   https://www.manualslib.com/manual/390980/American-Audio-Mcd-510.html?page=18   Good luck and hope this helps.   Sincerely,     Charles Lucas.

Hubert Aubin <hubertaubin5678@gmail.com>: Jul 26 06:55AM -0700 > Good luck and hope this helps.   > Sincerely,   > Charles Lucas.     Tried again as per your instructions and still same. When i press RELAY it shut off immediately......also tried holding the RELAY button for up to 20 seconds.   Other symptoms: if i press +10 tracks it will go up to 991 (even when there is only 15 track on the CD) even when the play button is flashing, if i press eject it will display OPEN but will not open, to retrieve the CD, i have to shut off the power. When i restart the eject button will work. When i insert a CD the screen shows: 01 rEAd 0.0 When i first turn the power on, all the light go on for a second then go off (this may be normal?)

Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com>: Jul 26 08:24AM -0700 > to retrieve the CD, i have to shut off the power. When i restart the eject button will work. > When i insert a CD the screen shows: 01 rEAd 0.0 > When i first turn the power on, all the light go on for a second then go off (this may be normal?)   I sent out a copy of the service manual for this manual to your email. The .pdf file (the 43-44 page manual) is attached to your email. This device has a myriad of logic circuits. I suggest check the circuits that drive the loop and/or the relay system. I would also make sure that in all formats, the CD's (whatever flavor they are) actually have correct focus from the laser and that they all in their different formats reading properly. You might have a laser that had gone partially bad, therefore is rendering it all bad for every other format as well, for the one format that is truly bad.   You can check laser power, verify the servo motors are ok, and even make sure the loader and unloader are timed for each deck correctly. However, you have to have correct focus on every format. These devices are multi-format read during normal operation and can even read 3" cd's (cd singles) and 5" (4.76 cm) cd's as well. All the formats very for physical reasons or and/or for format reasons (gets into concepts of what compression type is this?). In trying to chase this down and diagnose the problem, check lasers on both decks and all formats of cd's, mp3's, etc... according to what the service manual calls for. verify the laser focus is correct on each format and check laser power. Before you do any work on the logic circuits, you need to rule out anything mechanical, make sure the relay switch is not dirty or anything. You should get some sort of a result. While you're at it, make sure the drive belts are working and in good condition too.   Check your relay on and off positions, check single versus continuous, check all of those modes that are the straight-out play modes. Disengage shuffle, random, or repeat modes. You should have a straight linear playback of track one, track two, etc... to track 16...or track 22 (some oldies cd's have that many). You should get some sort of result.   If after checking these things, you need to look into the logic circuits. You'll need a logic probe to test for an on or off condition.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 26 08:29AM -0700 If the remote is wired: a) are you able to verify continuity in each conductor? b) is there any evidence - at all - of any visible damage to the connectors at either end? c) are you able to get 'under the hood' and look at any internal connections on the umbilicus? You might try tapping on each connection with a small wooden dowel and see if anything gets better.   Generally, transportation/shipping-related faults are at stress points, internal or external. So, check those.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com>: Jul 25 07:16PM -0700 On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 12:07:29 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > >Gotta disagree. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing alkaline > >chargers at Radio Shack 1990ish as we looked into them for > >use with our Motorola alpha numeric pagers.   I found this link that prominently says "alkaline" and the charger was made by Buddy-L. I nicknamed them "battery buddy" 30 + years ago (about 1990). Click on this link and you will see. Thanks for everything. After the conversation and my faulty memory, I thought I would do some digging. So, the link is right here. Click below.   https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m75188640508/?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16711599291&utm_content=t0&adgroup=130207367930&network=g&device=c&merchant_id=126358573&product_id=m75188640508&product_id=1645796691995&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_viWBhD8ARIsAH1mCd7avDuQlJDgVRLgiu3Xv3qdGA6kPwLn7ntr7T0bB7fFuW7glChXbpMaAuuJEALw_wcB   > PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   I really appreciate the great conversation. This is so useful, I am archiving it for my records as I have truly learned an immense amount here. Thank you so much! I love your sense of humor too. Really great!   Have a wonderful day!   Sincerely,   Charles Lucas

Peabody <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com>: Jul 25 12:41PM -0500 ohg...@gmail.com says...   > effectively jumping out the bad LED. If it does, the > problem will fix itself until another wayward LED crops > up or if an interconnect gets resistive.   If I connect my computer to the TV via HDMI, and display a competely white (all FFs) BMP image full screen, would I be able to detect an LED that's not lighting up? Would there be a dark area on the screen, or is the failure of one LED not enough to cause a detectable darker area on the screen? When I try this, I don't see anything unusual. The display is a little darker in the corners, but I think that's normal.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 25 10:44AM -0700 On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 1:41:31 PM UTC-4, Peabody wrote:

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 25 10:50AM -0700 On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 1:41:31 PM UTC-4, Peabody wrote: > If I connect my computer to the TV via HDMI, and display a > competely white (all FFs) BMP image full screen, would I be > able to detect an LED that's not lighting up?   Probably, but Samsung does a good job with their lens design on their back lit models. Think about it - there is a fair amount of dead space between LEDs as they're laid out and generally you don't see the individual LED illumination even on a plain white display. There will be *some* unevenness if an LED goes out, but it's generally not dramatic, but your all white bit map pattern might show it. Try different brightness settings when you're looking at it. I've also seen some older Samsungs with half the LEDs shorted and the customers didn't complain at all about the picture until one opened and shut the array down.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 25 11:07AM -0700 >> competely white (all FFs) BMP image full screen, would I be >> able to detect an LED that's not lighting up?   > Probably, but Samsung does a good job with their lens design on their back lit models. Think about it - there is a fair amount of dead space between LEDs as they're laid out and generally you don't see the individual LED illumination even on a plain white display. There will be *some* unevenness if an LED goes out, but it's generally not dramatic, but your all white bit map pattern might show it. Try different brightness settings when you're looking at it. I've also seen some older Samsungs with half the LEDs shorted and the customers didn't complain at all about the picture until one opened and shut the array down.   One of my employees brought in a Samsung 55" UN55JU7100 that has a shorted primary side of the switching supply. Hard short at the output of the first bridge rectifier. Noticed a few small value caps that are slightly bulging - is there anything else to check/replace on this series other than the shorted MOSFets and suspect caps?   I'm going to suggest he add a small fan to the backside of the TV to get longer life...   Thanks!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 25 12:15PM -0700 On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 2:07:23 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:   > series other than the shorted MOSFets and suspect caps?   > I'm going to suggest he add a small fan to the backside of the TV to get > longer life...   No, you'll be good to go. Just change the shorted MosFets and the caps, and it should fly. If you're very unlucky, the gate driver IC might have failed but usually the fuse will blow quick enough. If the customer changed or jumped the fuse, the gate driver IC will most likely fail on AC plug in.   You don't need a fan, but they way to extend the life of these is to lower the back light setting. Any TV I repair automatically gets a small mod to reduce the back light current regardless of where the customer sets the adjustment in the picture menu. Most LED TVs use a fixed LED voltage on the high side of the array and a MosFet on the low side which controls the current. I raise the value of the MosFet Source resistor (senses current) to fool the feedback.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 25 10:02AM -0700 "Cities in Flight"   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cities_in_Flight#:~:text=Cities%20in%20Flight%20is%20a,as%20the%20%22Okie%22%20novels.   James Blish   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 25 10:37AM -0700 On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:53 PM UTC-4, Trevor Wilson wrote: > On 24/07/2022 4:11 am, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:   > > Agnostic here.. > **A fence-sitter. Have the courage of your convictions.     I'm not a fence sitter. I'm just honest enough to say that I don't know - but I am honest with myself. If anything, admitting I don't know takes more courage than if I were to blindly accept a theory that can't be proven. No matter how theoretical physicists spin a "big bang" theory, they can't show any evidence or create in a lab anything from a big box of nothing, and there are plenty of scientists who say this out loud. There is no more evidence for a natural big bang start to the universe than there is for a supernatural intelligent creator. In other words none. Until I see some evidence either way, my opinion won't change.         > all. Further, many of those scientists remain as believing in > intelligent design despite years of study. > **Bullshit. 'Intelligent Design' is just 'Creationsim' re-invented.     Fine, call it what you will. I always thought Intelligent Design and Creationism were the same thing but maybe there's a distinction I'm unaware of, but there are scientists who do believe in intelligent design/creationism.       >Scientists are quite certain about how the universe began, > down to within a few microseconds after the big bang occurred.   No, some *say* they know, but they don't. Any opinion they have is their own not supported by any scientific data that can even begin to explain why the universe even exists at all.   The same goes for any sky daddy. Creationists (or Intelligent Design) run into the same problem that the Big Bang folks do when explaining their side: there is no evidence to explain when and where this god appeared and what existed before him/her/it/they. Their only answer is to say that he/she/it/they always existed. That is just as unsupported in any scientific fact as Big Bang is.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 25 11:13AM -0700 Yikes!!   a) What is known of the Universe may be extrapolated backwards in time. All a telescope does, whatever type of radiation it observes, is look backward in time. b) It is a pretty linear extrapolation based on the data observed to follow distributed energy back to a (probably) single point. c) And, this really is basic, established science based on direct observation of specific evidence that also is repeatable. d) CERN has told us a great deal on how matter is formed, how it holds together, how it behaves and more. e) It turns out that even this is predictable and repeatable. Making it also basic science. f) However, we still do not know what we do not know. g) Clarke's Third Law: Science, sufficiently advanced, is indistinguishable from magic.   William of Occam suggests that one should not needlessly multiply entities.   See this as a multiple choice problem:   1. There is a "GOD" in the Christian/Muslim/Jewish model, complete/replete with all the various trappings assigned thereto. 2. There is a Prime Mover that is self-aware. 3. There is/are forces that is/are responsible/resulted in the 'big bang'. Said force/forces need not be self-aware, intelligent, self-directed, nor anything else other than (a) Force/Forces.   Which is the simplest explanation?   There are those who believe that fetal recapitulation is proof of God/Intelligent Design. There are those that believe just the opposite. Point being that evidence-in-a-vacuum leads to a potential for misinterpretation. As, both cannot be correct in the above example.   Writing for myself, I am much happier believing that I am more-or-less responsible for my state in this world - and not living at the whim of some probably malicious, certainly capricious, demonstrably not benign 'creator'.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 25 11:32AM -0700 On Mon, 25 Jul 2022 10:37:03 -0700 (PDT), "ohg...@gmail.com" >> **A fence-sitter. Have the courage of your convictions.   >I'm not a fence sitter. I'm just honest enough to say >that I don't know - but I am honest with myself.   Indecision is the key to flexibility. If I were undecided and shopping around for a religion, I would go with the highest bidder. Offers of an afterlife, threats of eternal damnation, enlightenment, celestial soap opera, secret knowledge, and future intangibles seem like poor investments. I would be expected to follow a rule book and collect my prize after I die. That's not particularly appealing and seems rather risky. All that might have worked when the average life expectancy was 27 years. Today, it's 77 years and don't have the patience to wait that long.   A possible solution is autotheism or egotheism. Basically, I declare myself to be my own god, and worship myself. This has many advantages. It's economical since I retain most of my income (no tithe). There are no tedious books to read since I'll be writing my own instructions as I go along. I can keep my options open and make the final decision just before I die. If I want to reward myself, I can do that in small installments or pay for my reward with credit cards, and default after I die.   Drivel: My version of Usenet from a mildly biblical perspective: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/genesis.txt> and Judaism for computer geeks: <https://members.cruzio.com/~jeffl/nooze/judaism.txt>       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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