- sluggish remote control - 2 Updates
- I direct wired Plug and Play LEDs, is this bad? - 1 Update
| micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Sep 16 01:06AM -0400 Have any of you noticed that your remote control, for a tv or whatever, doesn't work at first, if you haven't used it for a day or two? I keep thinking the batteries have died, but after a couple minutes it usually works. I try to warm up the batteries by pressing one button or another 10 or 20 times and that doesn't seem to work but a fwe minutes later, things are fine. One complication: I'm not controlling the TV directly. I'm shining the remote on PowerMid that uses radio waves to communicate with a receiver in my bedroom that uses a thin cable to send infrared to a little bead that is stuck in front of the IR receiver on the DVDR. But the powermid has a red light that goes on when I'm shining the remote at it, and that does go on. Still, I don't think that is the cause of the delay. |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 16 09:31AM -0700 On Friday, September 16, 2022 at 1:06:54 AM UTC-4, micky wrote: > that is stuck in front of the IR receiver on the DVDR. But the powermid > has a red light that goes on when I'm shining the remote at it, and that > does go on. Still, I don't think that is the cause of the delay. I've never noticed that, no. It seems that with the equipment you have, your lag could be anywhere in the chain and not so much the remote since your powermid is responding to it apparently. |
| Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Sep 16 09:18AM +0100 On 15/09/2022 14:14, Tim R wrote: > Thanks for the reply. This is only partially correct though, unless I'm misunderstanding. > I've been replacing fluorescent tubes in my house and shed for a while now, only a couple to go. The first several I did were exactly as you say, the LED tubes were single end powered. This required an unshunted tombstone at one end, with hot and neutral connected to that end, and the tombstone at the other end was just mechanical support with no wiring to it. This is the way the installation instructions read for all single end LED tubes. It's also the simplest and easiest to rewire, you usually have enough existing wire length to at least one end. (yes, at least once my tube didn't light, because I'd put the wrong end in) > If I understand what you are trying to say, you would use an unshunted tombstone at the powered end, continue the circuit to a shunted tombstone at the other end, then back to the powered end, then to neutral??? Much depends on what you have been supplied, but the circuit awareness is good and better than the average Amazon purchaser that frankly scares me. When I mean a 'shorted end', I mean that particular 'plug and play' LED tube _internally_ has a connection between the end two pins. In that case, the non-shunted tombstone wiring is then connected series as normal for florescent tubes and both the starter and ballast are removed and their connections linked across. If you have been supplied a 'direct wire' tube with one end internally open circuit, of course you just connect it at the supply end, and there is no issue if that same tube is later inserted the wrong way - other than darkness, and the fear that a future Amazon shopper might purchase the wrong replacement type isn't your problem ... I think that would trip the breaker immediately but maybe I'm not understanding. Remember the ballast is gone with these tubes. Or you could run wires in parallel, one hot and one neutral to both ends with unshunted tombstones, and it wouldn't matter if you put a single end LED in either direction. But accidentally putting a double end tube or an old fluorescent in would be a disaster. > But I've also used the double end LED tubes, where you run hot to one end and neutral to the other, and I tend to think these are safer. This is how the installation instructions read for the PlugPlay ones I mistakenly bought. The instructions for this type say either use shunted tombstones or pigtail the wire to both contacts of a shunted one. I'm not sure why that is necessary, seems like one pin would be enough. On the tube it is a 50/50 shoot which pin is the active one. They both won't be common/shorted as again, what happens if the Amazon shopper inserts the tube into a unshunted fitting wired traditionally? I think it is unsafe supplying tubes with internally shorted ends. > It seems to me that direct wire tubes would be easier to design and manufacture than PlugPlay, and my evidence is that not all ballasts are compatible. I just get rid of ballasts and starters. But I have no idea what extra circuitry is involved, and would be interested if anyone would share. -- Adrian C |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics"
Post a Comment