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Mitch Chauvin <michel.arrigoni@gmail.com>: Feb 25 08:33AM -0800 Le mercredi 14 octobre 2020 à 00:44:55 UTC+2, Runner a écrit : > fragile that I broke it so even if I got it going again, it would be to > only salvage the songs. Thanks in advance for any help. Just want to > get its drive recognized by the PC if possible.   I did a video tutorial to disassemble and repair the on/off tactil button if it may help ... : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHWXsiJXIIc

Mitch Chauvin <michel.arrigoni@gmail.com>: Feb 25 08:34AM -0800 Le samedi 5 décembre 2020 à 15:03:17 UTC+1, Transition Zone a écrit :   > > My sympathies, but don't use anything on flash for permanent storage. > I wonder if manufacturers of late model MP3 players are security conscious enough to cause all memory to disappear once the device is opened. > (Like, maybe when Apple phones are 'steamed' open). I did a tutorial video for repairing the tactil button. You can see how to open the player. Do not hesitate to contact me if you need more information. Enjoy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHWXsiJXIIc

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 25 02:23AM -0500 More good and bad about my new and old microwaves.   Good, the door is much easier to see through. I can actually see what's going on, if it's bubbling or not.   The light bulb costs iirc 15 to 20 dollars. It's a whole assembly, and since I don't want to keep the thing in parts for a week, I'll probably give in and buy it in advance, instead of trying to replace the broken bulb (which they don't want you to do. Maybe you can't even get a matching bulb.) But all this is for years from now if/when the bulb burns out.     Meanwhile I came across a video of what to do with the old microwave.   Take my word, you will like this, or at least within a few minutes you'll know it's not your style, and I think you'll like it more if you watch it like I did, not knowing where he's going, so here is the link.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UfglFeOH8 This Is Why We Don't Toss Out Broken Microwaves | Remake Projects Totally Handy 1.37M subscribers   M is for million?   If you really want to know what it's about before you watch it, scroll down until you see the abridged version (without video).                                                           Take out the power transformer, cut off one end of the secondary winding. Punch the remainder of the winding through to the other side, leaving an open area as big as the winding had been. Take some heavy gauge wire. He didnn't say the gauge but the copper was about 1/2" in diameter. Loop it into the open space until it's full, 3 loops, and then he attaches 2 different things to the ends of the two wires. One is a cute curvy thing made with wire something like a thick wire hanger. He turns it on, it gets red hot, and he burns it into the car bumper cover he is repairing, to splice one side of a cut to the other. He also uses it to burn decorations into wood.   Then he toook another transformer, did the new secondary the same way, and connected its wires to thick, pointed but short metal "probes" he made, mounted on arms, one fixed and one that moved up and down, with enough reach to allow one to slide sheet metal between them, and he had a spot welder for sheet metal. Worked very well.   Ah, it was easy to find. I just opened Firefox History and then searched on youtube, and it was about 20 lines down.   This is why we don't toss out broken microwaves:

Rob H <rob@despammer.com>: Feb 25 07:33AM On 25/02/2023 07:23, micky wrote:   > Ah, it was easy to find. I just opened Firefox History and then > searched on youtube, and it was about 20 lines down.   > This is why we don't toss out broken microwaves:   Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.

alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>: Feb 25 08:40AM On 25/02/2023 07:33, Rob H wrote:     > Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.     Like a lot of Youtube videos titled something like "DIY - make this useful widget in 15 minutes"   They often start off with manufacturing something with simple hand tools but then quickly progress to machines or tools that a large engineering company would be proud to own.   It appears that in the USA anyone that does DIY has a fully equipped workshop in a workspace the size of a large barn.   -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"Brian Gaff" <brian1gaff@gmail.com>: Feb 25 12:48PM That seems a little bit niche, and rather a big lump to lug around to me. I would say that it might be better to remove the transformer, and put it in its own box and do it that way. Another use for them, according to an electronics buff, is to liberate a couple and wire them in such a way that you can get enough voltage after rectification and smoothing, to allow some of the power valves often on the market cheaply and used in RF amplification for up to 10 kw, but normally in this country at 400 wats, as its cheaper than getting the main transformer replaced. I doubt it looks very nice though. Brian   --   --: This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... briang1@blueyonder.co.uk Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "micky" <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote in message news:e2bjvhljv5jbpcbcp6niddr3kebcuj87u4@4ax.com...

Max Demian <max_demian@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 01:57PM On 25/02/2023 07:23, micky wrote: > bulb (which they don't want you to do. Maybe you can't even get a > matching bulb.) But all this is for years from now if/when the bulb > burns out.   The lamp on mine is behind one of the internal grills and looks as if the whole thing would have to be disassembled to replace. It hasn't so far, and I imagine it could be dangerous to take it apart, with high voltages being retained.   Someone *did* throw out a microwave near where I live, so I retrieved the turntable and roller guide in case I break mine, as they charge about £25 (including p&p) for a replacement and the oven only cost £40.   -- Max Demian

Retirednoguilt <HapilyRetired@fakeaddress.com>: Feb 25 10:28AM -0500 On 2/25/2023 8:57 AM, Max Demian wrote:   > Someone *did* throw out a microwave near where I live, so I retrieved > the turntable and roller guide in case I break mine, as they charge > about £25 (including p&p) for a replacement and the oven only cost £40.   When our microwave needed to be replaced, I salvaged not only the turntable and roller guide, but also the plastic spindle that sits on the turntable motor's shaft and has horizontal leaves that fit into the underside of the turntable. I once had one of those spontaneously crack apart and the replacement part (plus shipping) seemed disproportionately expensive for a small piece of molded plastic. Good to have a spare.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 05:22PM Ok, say I need a rechargeable 4v battery. What Amps likely? Any added circuitry? On the terminal.     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Feb 24 06:31PM -0500 > CRT video display terminal. I can't find the battery type online. Seems all > the manuals are truncated at chapter 5. It is discontinued and I just want > the specs. seems 4.2v Hg or 3.8v Li.   Here's a _general_ answer.   A setting holding backup battery does not need to supply a lot of current. I don't know what your device needs, but it is likely very low, perhaps not measureable with a dmm as it may draw current in pulses.   That said, there are plenty of lithium batteries you can choose from, and small voltage boost converters (look on ebay) you could use to boost to 4.2 volts.   You may not need exactly 4.2 volts - I have no idea what your device needs, other than what you posted, except that setting backup is almost always (always ?) very low current.   Ok, assuming 4.2 volts, here's where we are, so far: lithium===>boost circuit===>device   Now, you want to charge the battery. Ebay has lithium cell charger/protector circuits. Now your circuit looks like this: (view in fixed font) lithium=+=>boost circuit===>device | chg/pr==+   In case the view is "scrambled" you'll connect the charge/protect (chg/pr in the diagram) to the same battery terminals that the boost circuit connects to.   Ok, that's the general idea - using lithium, lithium charge/protection circuit and boost (or buck/boost) converter. You need to know what you're doing with lithium batteries, how to protect them etc, and how to properly connect to your 2621A.   Good luck. Ed

pablo gago <pablogago82@gmail.com>: Feb 24 03:14PM -0800 > miguel angel quiza llego un poco tarde pero hace poco el servicio tecnico m envio x mail un pdf q he imprimido d la urei 1601 es el tocho con todas las especificaciones d piezas y conexiones hola que tal aun tienes ese pdf?

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Feb 24 09:30AM -0800 This TV is showing all the signs of a TCON or TAB failure. The RHS of the screen exhibits a combination of various issues: ghosting images, duplicated images, solarized sections on the screen, what looks like 'interlaced lines' on portions of the RHS, and darkened areas. Initially, the problems would clear themselves after the TV was on for 2-3 min, then the time got longer, e.g. 20 mins. Now it is constant. I removed the back and cleaned & reseated the 4 flex ribbon cables at the TCON board which did not solve the problem. The ribbon cables go off to the LCD screen which I could not access. It appears that I have to disassemble more of the TV to access the TAB areas. (not obvious what all needs to be disassembled - comments?)   Assuming I get access to the TAB areas, how to repair them? Googling turns up putting a padded 'shim' between the TAB and the frame, effectively pressing the contacts together. Another approach is to use a hot air gun and pressure to rebond it. Not clear what to use to put pressure on the entire length of the TAB area. So my questions are: 1 - ways to diagnose the problem 2 - how to disassemble the set to access the TAB area 3 - best way to repair the TAB if in fact that is the problem Any advice from ppl that have wrestled with the set is appreciated. J

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Feb 24 09:12AM -0800 > -- > Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm > ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   The 'mildew' you are referring to is more likely to be 'CRT Cataracts' - a condition where the safety glass (screen) that is bonded/laminated to the CRT begins to degrade resulting in white spots that are often mistaken for mildew. A fairly common problem that affects CRTs mfg in the 60s through 80's.   One way to clean up the face of the CRT is to remove the safety glass. There are various methods suggested that include using a thin wire placed between the CRT face and the safety glass, and using a sawing motion move over the entire CRT face, effectively cutting off the safety glass. Variations of this approach include heating the safety glass with a heat gun, heating the wire, etc. Google CRT cataracts and you will probably find lots of ways to remove the glass. Some are better than others. It is often difficult to remove the remaining glue on the CRT face.   Not clear what you are attempting to do with the RPi and serial line. Do you want to replace the MSDOS PC with a RPi and have it talk on a TCP/IP network? If you just want to move bits around, you may want to look at SLIP (serial line interface protocol).

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 05:20PM In <651c793c-2bf2-4e79-8801-540e2c72d6e2n@googlegroups.com> by three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com> on Fri, 24 Feb 2023 12:12:19 we perused: *+-On Friday, February 24, 2023 at 9:12:09???AM UTC-5, vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote: *+-> I wonder if I get an rs232-usb connector, and port the .SYS terminal *+-> driver (I recoded in assembler but in 1985), I should be able to get a razpie *+-> to run. Question how I would network if it is MSDOS. 1985-95 my HP2621a had *+-> an 80186 Ampro 2210 MSDOS-generic computer on it with 5.25" disks and 10MB *+-> hard dirve. (Should still work.) Worked quite well, still own it. The glue *+-> holding the monitor shield has corrupted, looking like mildew, but I am told *+-> all I have to do is scrape it off. Just a stupid nostalgia ego thing. *+-> *+-> *+-> *+-> -- *+-> Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm *+-> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   *+-The 'mildew' you are referring to is more likely to be 'CRT Cataracts' - a condition where the safety glass (screen) that is bonded/laminated to the CRT begins to degrade resulting in white spots that are often mistaken for mildew. A fairly common problem that affects CRTs mfg in the 60s through 80's.   *+-One way to clean up the face of the CRT is to remove the safety glass. There are various methods suggested that include using a thin wire placed between the CRT face and the safety glass, and using a sawing motion move over the entire CRT face, effectively cutting off the safety glass. Variations of this approach include heating the safety glass with a heat gun, heating the wire, etc. Google CRT cataracts and you will probably find lots of ways to remove the glass. Some are better than others. It is often difficult to remove the remaining glue on the CRT face.   Yes, exactly.   *+-Not clear what you are attempting to do with the RPi and serial line. Do you want to replace the MSDOS PC with a RPi and have it talk on a TCP/IP network? If you just want to move bits around, you may want to look at SLIP (serial line interface protocol).   Yes, as well. I had used dosPPP on MS DOS 6.22, would it work on DOS 3?   I don't mind keeping the Ampro, it can dial out and print. I just need to fix the parallel printer ribbon cable.   But I was considering connecting to a home network. (I am moving and dreaming of all these projects insemi-retirement.)   Thanks for being someoen who knew exactly what I was referring to. THat alone lifted my spirits.   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

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