| Anthk <anthk@disroot.org>: Mar 24 12:58PM Hello there. I was just watching a TV show, when, suddenly, the TV image turned itself off but audio was working fine. Some minutes after that audio stopped to work too. I tried to turn it on as I tought it could be related to an auto-suspending issue and unplug the TV over the whole night but I had no luck. Not even the TV menu it's displayed. The TV it's a 32" Toshiba one, sadly I can't grasp the model now, but I'll try to find the manuals later. Could it be related to an issue with capacitors? Thanks in advance. |
| Anthk <anthk@disroot.org>: Mar 24 01:02PM > but I'll try to find the manuals later. > Could it be related to an issue with capacitors? > Thanks in advance. Well, the model was in the remote. Sorry, I was in a hurry. It's CT-8035. Thanks again. |
| Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Mar 24 07:46AM -0700 On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 8:02:51 AM UTC-5, Anthk wrote: > Well, the model was in the remote. Sorry, I was in a hurry. > It's CT-8035. > Thanks again. Just a thought. Is the TV earlier than 2008? What kind of TV is it? CRT type, LCD, etc... The government mandated after 2008 that all TV's made have to shut off if no signal is going to the proper input within several seconds. In other words, if no signal after a certain time, the set shuts down. The reason was due to the energy star standards. They wanted to conserve electrical power and energy as well as make certain these sets run more efficiently. With the above stated in mind, always check for correct input and whether or not it is an analog or digital mode (for audio and video). It could be some mode it was inadvertently put into (even by accident). Then change it to the appropriate input (RCA, HDMI, etc...) Good luck, hope this helps. Charles Lucas |
| Anthk <anthk@disroot.org>: Mar 24 03:29PM > but I'll try to find the manuals later. > Could it be related to an issue with capacitors? > Thanks in advance. It's LCD, and I am not an American, sorry. The fiber TV top-box set works ok, I already tried it with a PC panel and it outputs the signal perfectly, so the issue lies on the TV. |
| Anthk <anthk@disroot.org>: Mar 24 03:30PM > input (RCA, HDMI, etc...) > Good luck, hope this helps. > Charles Lucas It's LCD, and I am not an American, sorry. The fiber TV top-box set works ok, I already tried it with a PC panel and it outputs the signal perfectly, so the issue lies on the TV. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 24 08:34AM -0700 > Well, the model was in the remote. Sorry, I was in a hurry. > It's CT-8035. That is the remote model - not the TV model. But, let's assume that it is the associated-with-that-remote TV 32L3453DB. Do you know its age? Toshiba part numbers and season-numbers are not easy to follow. a) Any funny smells of any nature? b) Any previous bad-behavior? c) Are you feeding from a cable box, or directly into the TV from a satellite, WiFi device, or other-than-cable? Have you verified that those connections are present and correct? Superficially, it seems to be a power-supply issue, with cascading failures, first to the picture, then to the sound. If you can get access to the manual and/or the schematic, there may be internal fuses that have failed (usually for a reason), or some other relatively simple fix. Some "smart" TVs need an occasional software update - that would also be in the manual, as well as the means for a 'hard' and 'soft' reset. 32" smart TVs are under US$100 these days, so failing a simple fix, it is unlikely to be worth the cost of a repair. Sadly. Good luck with it. |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 23 10:20AM -0700 > I haven't done any real testing Sam, but just spitballing I'd guess that the more the Sunbeam is used, the faster it becomes inert. So, if run at lower temp settings, less heat/time will be supplied by the blanket and the longer it will last (?). I suspect it's decline is not linear, so keeping the temp down by half may quadruple the life.. > At least that's my theory and we'll see how this new Sunbeam mattress pad holds up. We had two blankets before this heated pad (both Sunbeam) and both went *very* weak before being replaced. Neither showed any error code at the controller nor went completely cold, so neither suffered a broken wire anywhere. But even at level ten they barely got warm. > This new Sunbeam heated mattress pad we picked up last fall will be used no more than a max of 4 out of 10 (no preheat which does a level 10 for 30 min). As long as the thread has been resurrected, let me report that the new Sunbeam mattress pad we got when I posted in 2017 lasted three seasons when it wouldn't be warm enough even at 10. We replaced it with a Beautyrest mattress pad, and we are finishing up our third winter with it. On a scale of 0-20, we preheat at 10 about half hour before we go to bed, and I put it on 3 to sleep. So far, I don't notice *any* loss of heating capability with the Beautyrest as I did with repeated Sunbeam products (at least three maybe four all told), which slowly seemed to go inert. So the Beautyrest seems to be a far better product at least by my small sample. |
| John Robertson <jrr@flippers.com>: Mar 23 09:30PM -0700 > As long as the thread has been resurrected, let me report that the new Sunbeam mattress pad we got when I posted in 2017 lasted three seasons when it wouldn't be warm enough even at 10. > We replaced it with a Beautyrest mattress pad, and we are finishing up our third winter with it. On a scale of 0-20, we preheat at 10 about half hour before we go to bed, and I put it on 3 to sleep. So far, I don't notice *any* loss of heating capability with the Beautyrest as I did with repeated Sunbeam products (at least three maybe four all told), which slowly seemed to go inert. > So the Beautyrest seems to be a far better product at least by my small sample. I had a heated waterbed for about fifteen years - that was great! Never had any trouble with the heating element, but then it was buried under the mattress on wood side of the water isolation bag and not subject to stress from sleepers or folks being more active than sleeping. Now we have a down comforter which feels warm in about twenty seconds...and the room is kept to around 17C (roughly 62F) for the night. John :-#)# |
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