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bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Apr 29 09:50AM -0700 What is a kill switch? A kill switch in an IT context is a mechanism used to shut down or disable a device or program.   The purpose of a kill switch is usually to prevent theft of a machine or data or shut down machinery in an emergency. The degree to which a kill switch limits, alters or stops an action or activity depends on the production, process or program it is intended to protect.   -- https://www.techtarget.com/whatis/definition/kill-switch#:~:text=What%20is%20a%20kill,down%20machinery%20in%20an%20emergency.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Apr 30 10:53AM -0400 On Sat, 29 Apr 2023 09:50:00 -0700 (PDT), bruce bowser   >What is a kill switch? >A kill switch in an IT context is a mechanism used to shut down or disable a device or program.   >The purpose of a kill switch is usually to prevent theft of a machine or data or shut down machinery in an emergency. The degree to which a kill switch limits, alters or stops an action or activity depends on the production, process or program it is intended to protect.   Aren't we forgetting personnel?   Also starts with a 'p', so shouldn't interfere with your 'style'.   What's your point? Is there some sort of dispute? Comparing it to a 'dead man switch'?   RL

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Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Apr 16 11:49AM -0700 The video/control board in this LCD monitor seems dead. It has a TSUM088CDT9-7 video processor and does not react to any button press, does not enable the back light and is not detected when plugged to a computer. It runs off a single 5V supply and contains two voltage regulators, 3,3V and 1,2V that supply the Vcc pad and core respectively. The crystal oscillator seems to be running checked with a short wave radio at 14,31MHz.   I can't find any information on that processor and I am not sure if the 1,2V supply is right. The nearest I could find is a service manual for a LG LM91C chassis with a TSUM088GDT that states 1,8V for the Vcore. I found some other service manuals using other TSUMxxx models and all state 1,8V core voltage. However the 1,2V regulator seems fine, the control input is feed with a resistor divider from the output and it is at 0,6V just like the 3,3V regulator. The resistors are unmarked black SMD resistors so I can't tell if they are the right value but they are not open. Before trying to hack the regulator to 1,8V I would like to be sure this IC it is not supposed to run at 1,2V.   Anyone ever heard of that processor IC?

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chuck <donnyduck@gmail.com>: Apr 15 04:53PM -0400 change mask from 255.255.255.0 to 255.255.0.0

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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 11 11:25AM -0700 > If you can plug a polarized plug into a non-polarized receptacle, then > you can defeat the safety advantage offered by the polarized plugs.   NEMA receptacles (1-15P) for polarized plugs have been around since the late 1920s when the concept of 120/240 AC systems was fully described. We have them in some old wiring in our house. NP (1-15) receptacles exist for situations where the polarity of the receptacle cannot be predicted - such as DC circuits, and 'back-panel' receptacles in devices such are clock-radios that might be plugged into the wall either way. Many more contemporary audio devices used NP receptacles in the back (especially tube stuff) rather than polarized as they sometimes hummed less if plugged in one way rather than another.   Polarized *receptacles* offer 'safety advantages' only if they are correctly wired. Polarized *plugs* offer safety advantages again, only if they are properly wired and the device is functioning properly.   These distinctions are lost on our Non-North American friends. After all, it was all pretty much invented here, and the rest of the world benefitted by not having to make the same mistakes we did in the beginning. Nor are they living with 110 year-old wiring as we are (1913). It is perfectly fine, by the way, and called "knob and tube". It has also been inspected by our insurance company and passed without a peep.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 08 06:04PM -0400 On 4/8/2023 11:40 AM, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote: >> factory.   > We have a factory sealed unit in the house we moved into seven years > ago. It beeps when I burn the toast!   Sounds like it's doing its job! It doesn't know ya cookin'

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bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 08 11:13AM -0400 On 4/6/2023 6:24 PM, ehsjr wrote: > The word "hardwired" means they are powered from the > AC mains. (They also include a backup battery.)   > Ed   Incidentally the laws of the state of Massachusetts requires hardwired smoke detectors in all one and two family homes permitted (i.e. constructed and/or renovated) post 1975, prior to sale or transfer of the property.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 08 11:19AM -0400 On 4/6/2023 7:26 PM, Carlos E.R. wrote: > still be out.   > The main reason to have the detectors run from battery is precisely to > avoid failures due to failed mains.   I doubt any first-world fire code would allow the installation of mains-only smoke detectors, they're going to be either battery only or mains-powered with a battery backup.   Some more recent codes don't even want the user to be able to tamper with the battery and the battery-powered units are to be sealed at the factory.

Stephen Wolstenholme <stephen.wolstenholme@outlook.com>: Apr 08 04:40PM +0100 >Some more recent codes don't even want the user to be able to tamper >with the battery and the battery-powered units are to be sealed at the >factory.   We have a factory sealed unit in the house we moved into seven years ago. It beeps when I burn the toast!

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 07 05:29PM -0400 This crappy paper shredder uses a mechanical sensor to detect paper inserted, I think how it "works" is the lever arm rotates forward (to the left in the photo) hitting the momentary switch, the motor comes on and the worm gear attached to the driveshaft raises the smooth plate pulling the arm forward again until it hits the switch again, turning the motor off...I'm not sure that's quite right maybe someone could clarify the sequence.   Kinda ingenious design when it works right, except in this model it never really did, the motor always spun too long and now it won't auto-detect entirely. The smooth plate likes to slip out of its position, but I'm unsure of its resting position or how tight the set screw above the spring needs to be to fix it (not sure what else could go wrong...) At least until I finish this shredding job and take it to the Goodwill, that is.   Pics of the arrangement:   <https://imgur.com/a/kuKct9f>

"tschw...@aol.com" <tschw10117@aol.com>: Apr 07 07:20PM -0700 On Friday, April 7, 2023 at 4:29:07 PM UTC-5, bitrex wrote: > the Goodwill, that is.   > Pics of the arrangement:   > <https://imgur.com/a/kuKct9f>   Try a good cleaning before you toss it. Maybe the switch is full of paper dust.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 08 11:23AM -0400 >> Pics of the arrangement:   >> <https://imgur.com/a/kuKct9f>   > Try a good cleaning before you toss it. Maybe the switch is full of paper dust.   I'll try that as well but I forgot to mention that the first fail-symptom was the plastic trigger was stuck in the forward position blocking the paper slot, sorry about that!   So I think maybe there's something mechanical going on with the arm/gear, also. The lil metallic switch trigger seems to move freely otherwise.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 05:29PM -0700 On Thu, 6 Apr 2023 20:34:39 -0000 (UTC),   >The usual HP toner printers that did to sided printing ca 2009 usually >smudged the toner if you did two sided printing in card stock. But the big >5555 hp copier/printer/scanner didn't choke.   Smudging means that the rubber feed rollers are slipping. Clean the rollers or stop using high gloss (slippery) cardstock.   >How BIG does your printer have to be to reliably do two sided card stock?   I could answer that if you would offer a clue as to how many pound cardstock you need to print or what printer you are using. The maximum thickness paper should be in the printer paper handling specification.   What's critical for printing on cardboard is whether you have a straight or bent paper path. If the paper path is reasonably straight, it might work. If the paper path bends back onto itself in the form of a "U", you'll be lucky if you get anything over 24 lb to work.   Also, your printer driver has some settings which include the paper type and thickness. This setting needs to be set to something resembling the paper you are using.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 07:40PM Do they make wall receptacles where one is non-polarised and the other poalrised?     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Apr 06 10:00PM > Do they make wall receptacles where one is non-polarised and the other > poalrised?   You can make one. Just plug one of the two ground holes with some contrasting colored caulk -- so the next fool knows it was done on purpose.   WTH? Sure sounds like a troll.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 11:17PM In <slrnu2ug8h.s.trepidation@vps.jonz.net> by Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net> on Thu, 06 Apr 2023 18:00:49 we perused: *+-On Thu, 6 Apr 2023 19:40:28 -0000 (UTC), vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote: *+-> *+-> Do they make wall receptacles where one is non-polarised and the other *+-> poalrised?   *+-You can make one. *+-Just plug one of the two ground holes with some contrasting *+-colored caulk -- so the next fool knows it was done on purpose.   *+-WTH? Sure sounds like a troll.   The old outlets had both prongs the same width   now one is wider   Nothing about the ground   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Bertrand Sindri <bertrand.sindri@yahoo.com>: Apr 07 01:43AM > Do they make wall receptacles where one is non-polarised and the other > poalrised?   No. Most likely because doing so would likely be an electrical code violationn. I believe (at least for the US) the electrical code requires all new and upgraded receptacles to be polarized.   Just install a polarized receptacle. It is 100% backwards compatible with non-polarized plugs, with the added advantage of also being 100% forward compatible with all polarized plugs.

Bertrand Sindri <bertrand.sindri@yahoo.com>: Apr 07 01:45AM > <trepidation@example.net> on Thu, 06 Apr 2023 18:00:49 we perused: > The old outlets had both prongs the same width   > now one is wider   Yes, that's how the 'polarized' plugs work. By also making one plug tang wider you can only insert a polarized plug into a proper polarized receptacle.   If you can plug a polarized plug into a non-polarized receptacle, then you can defeat the safety advantage offered by the polarized plugs.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 07:15PM Twenty years ago Maintenance Wharehouse used to sell smoke detecotres that hard wired to 110VAC, no batteries. How do you fiind such today?   It seems those goon-ghules decide what you want You ask for "x not y" and they forget your condiditon   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Apr 06 08:17PM +0100 > Twenty years ago Maintenance Wharehouse used to sell > smoke detecotres that hard wired to 110VAC, no batteries. > How do you fiind such today?   over here "interlinked" would be a good extra keyword.

philo <philo@privacy.net>: Apr 06 02:33PM -0500 > How do you fiind such today?   > It seems those goon-ghules decide what you want > You ask for "x not y" and they forget your condiditon   Bad idea. If the power is out, no alarm. Power could be out due to an electrical fire.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Apr 06 09:13PM +0100 philo wrote:     >> smoke detecotres that hard wired to 110VAC, no batteries.   > Bad idea. If the power is out, no alarm. > Power could be out due to an electrical fire.   wire the alarm circuit in MICC?

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Apr 06 06:24PM -0400 > How do you fiind such today?   > It seems those goon-ghules decide what you want > You ask for "x not y" and they forget your condiditon   Search for hardwired smoke alarm. The word "hardwired" means they are powered from the AC mains. (They also include a backup battery.)   Ed

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 11:18PM In <u0ngri$h1jh$1@news.eternal-september.org> by ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net> on Thu, 06 Apr 2023 18:24:50 we perused: *+-On 4/6/2023 3:15 PM, vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote: *+-> Twenty years ago Maintenance Wharehouse used to sell *+-> smoke detecotres that hard wired to 110VAC, no batteries. *+-> How do you fiind such today? *+-> *+-> It seems those goon-ghules decide what you want *+-> You ask for "x not y" and they forget your condiditon *+->   *+-Search for hardwired smoke alarm. *+-The word "hardwired" means they are powered from the *+-AC mains. (They also include a backup battery.)   Many thanks. I kinda found it but wasn't sure   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Apr 07 01:26AM +0200 On 2023-04-06 22:13, Andy Burns wrote:   >> Bad idea. If the power is out, no alarm. >> Power could be out due to an electrical fire.   > wire the alarm circuit in MICC?   MICC (Model International Criminal Court)?   First google hit. No idea what MICC may be for you.   If you refer to "Mineral Insulated Copper Cable", no. The mains may still be out.   The main reason to have the detectors run from battery is precisely to avoid failures due to failed mains.     -- Cheers, Carlos.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 07:18PM Most adaptors are non-polarised with smaller prongs   Most walls these days are polarised   In my old home, I had to file down plugs to fit my wall outlets.   I usually try to spread the adaptor prongs further apart to fit more snugly   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Bertrand Sindri <bertrand.sindri@yahoo.com>: Apr 06 09:29PM > In my old home, I had to file down plugs to fit my wall outlets.   Or you could have simply changed the non-polarized plugs out for polarized plugs, which would have been a one time effort. And then you would not have needed to file down multiple plugs to fit.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 06 08:34PM The usual HP toner printers that did to sided printing ca 2009 usually smudged the toner if you did two sided printing in card stock. But the big 5555 hp copier/printer/scanner didn't choke.   How BIG does your printer have to be to reliably do two sided card stock?     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 06 10:01AM -0700 > "...The average cost of a 6KW solar energy system in Texas is $16,620 before incentives and $12,899 after applying Texas solar incentives."   > I may go with the zero-down option but I've been told there are drawbacks to that option.   OK: We use about 650 KWH/month, at an average cost of $16.5/KWH. Solar Panels are about 280% efficient - per day from rated output. So a 6,000 (6kw) installation will make 16.8 KW (per day). Which comes to 504 KWH/month. Assuming 100% cost avoidance - that is no maintenance, interest, financing and so forth, at our rates, we will save $83.16/month. That comes to $998 per year. $16,620/998 = 16.65 years of payback. Texas cost-of-power, on average is $0.14/kwh. Increasing the payback to 19.63 years.   Now, assuming you see fit to take the state & Federal subsidies - that is have other taxpayers cover some of your costs, the payback becomes 13 and 17 years respectively.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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Trevor Guilday <trevor@digital-economics.io>: Apr 06 08:04AM -0700 On Wednesday, January 25, 2023 at 9:57:33 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: > It ain't nohow "free" and it ain't nohow "cheap". It is the Solar industry equating "no down payment" with "Free". As noted previously, the Solar Industry as a whole has the ethics of a typical politician, and the morals of a typical evangelical preacher. Be VERY careful! > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Interesting.. it looks like this resource might be better to get an idea of the cost of solar panels in Texas: https://ecogenamerica.com/texas-solar-costs/   "...The average cost of a 6KW solar energy system in Texas is $16,620 before incentives and $12,899 after applying Texas solar incentives."   I may go with the zero-down option but I've been told there are drawbacks to that option.

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Dan Purgert <dan@djph.net>: Apr 02 05:59PM -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA512   > Many times they are too straight and don't fit snugly in the outlet. You   Sounds like the outlet itself is worn out ... is this in your home, or like a hotel or something?     -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----   iQIzBAEBCgAdFiEE3asj+xn6fYUcweBnbWVw5UznKGAFAmQpwsMACgkQbWVw5Uzn KGA+hA//TnOjYXwrwPF3B/QuTle62OrkPhdcHd4+83NAklwZ4D43K/osyyzjSLEJ rp3LSK4RLHUAljGywvuTWqe32gUPXoS4+j8doAKOPK4bWKo01qFXtbkzI0xKi9Oy edei/3eKScORbldw9BQvwiEDVKH/iLCIIfQR3hS7mPg2NSGmgBhtxkGttyj8rl2g kjrbFNetuyowklaojs9USegqW9q4OBxN273yfYZoR3Lt32aHdgzpHWUNCyIuJUJ8 lT3KG7gBu/Lv0mOJSNtwRWw08VgN1LnXa1GYBmfgvFVBKynJ+1rZyATl4WPoyp5F H0DymbmmHVKeYskJHIfcuS9Jbx0HtlILm+dPACL3VhfRwofHkQdLsbfJELHTHVro WNNC9o+xZeMnRDMEAPcjb15ROSAb8RXhSNMGz4CwqRu++dQS7I5s53rxEh5C1Vcu VgzfmkDZxyNs5kOJRzQfpdWgpBfp0Vs63O9i62BYoVbcHz/ebDkJ3pebkTwqquse RcNFnb21jXjQz+E2zqvlDNdvNclvw7VVvSWjYbYtoozsCnQdM0w6TVecXNMUmaeW dQkK/t9A91veb6Jv7TJ8+bRV8T++S7eSRILtjf9QH9Wi2ey202hFhneVrLGRaxBL pj7egEoevrNLUkcYF7HkpXJ7uSRga1G3gRUPCK8azz6O9hbjjSA= =M3K/ -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----   -- |_|O|_| |_|_|O| Github: https://github.com/dpurgert |O|O|O| PGP: DDAB 23FB 19FA 7D85 1CC1 E067 6D65 70E5 4CE7 2860

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com>: Apr 02 05:45PM +0100 On Fri, 31 Mar 2023 18:23:43 -0700 (PDT), Steve Kamego   >I tried to get in touch with the local university to see about any interest there but didn't get any bites.   >Any thoughts on places to donate? Some of it is high voltage so I want to give it to someone who'd end up hurting themselves, and i don't just want to call an e-waste company as some of it is pretty good stuff.   >Thanks to this group for the years of information I've absorbed and occasionally participated in. Glad to see it's still going strong.   Not so sure about that. Some of the key contributors seem to have been absent of late. :-(

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bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Apr 02 02:54AM > It's time to hang it up, I've moved away from electronics over into software, and it's about time I clear out the old collection.   > I tried to get in touch with the local university to see about any interest there but didn't get any bites.   > Any thoughts on places to donate? Some of it is high voltage so I want to give it to someone who'd end up hurting themselves, and i don't just want to call an e-waste company as some of it is pretty good stuff.   Have you considered Ebay, or maybe Craigslist?   Either is better than e-waste.   bob prohaska

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Apr 02 09:03AM -0700 On Friday, March 31, 2023 at 9:23:46 PM UTC-4, Steve Kamego wrote:   > Thanks to this group for the years of information I've absorbed and occasionally participated in. Glad to see it's still going strong.   > Dallas area if that matters.   > Steve I may be interested in some of your stuff...please drop me a note. I'd second CL or Ebay J

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 01 08:51PM Many times they are too straight and don't fit snugly in the outlet. You can be plugeed in for hours with no results. Once I even lost my SD card. I bend them, but some chargers even bend back. Any suggestions. I can think of a few ideas (eg foil) that might be too hazardous. And, short of keep trying, I have no way of knowing which 3-to-2 aapters will fit right.   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 02 12:29AM -0700 > -- > Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm > ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   Get an outlet strip that has good plug retention; commercial grade and hospital grade sockets are carefully designed for reliable contact force, but with consumer-grade gear, quality is variable. A three-prong plug from the outlet strip makes good contact with the wall socket, and the outlets in the STRIP, not the wall, determine how well your charger connects.   If you have a micrometer or calipers, it might also be wise to shop for a new charger with thicker metal prongs.

Patrick <5c58a3fa59c2fb61bed712105f8b54f5@example.com>: Apr 01 07:00PM Hi Frank, I'm looking for the 824 manual. Could I get a copy kindly? Best regards Patrick   -- For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/digelec-824-manual-165727-.htm

Bertrand Sindri <bertrand.sindri@yahoo.com>: Apr 02 03:24AM > I'm looking for the 824 manual. Could I get a copy kindly?   > Best regards > Patrick   After almost 6 years, you expect Frank to be waiting around for your reply?

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Apr 01 08:58PM You can turn image off on some browsers to save mobile data. IPTV costs 200mb/hr but internet radio is 1mb/hr, since I am quite blind I never relly cared much for tv. THere used to be TVs (pre-HD) that provided only sound. But back then sound was transmitted seperately, I am wondering if IPTV sound can actually be split off   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Apr 01 10:17PM +0100 > cared much for tv. THere used to be TVs (pre-HD) that provided only > sound. But back then sound was transmitted seperately, I am wondering if IPTV > sound can actually be split off   It depends on which streaming protocol the provider uses.   -- Brian Gregory (in England).

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Steve Kamego <skamego@gmail.com>: Mar 31 06:23PM -0700 It's time to hang it up, I've moved away from electronics over into software, and it's about time I clear out the old collection.   I tried to get in touch with the local university to see about any interest there but didn't get any bites.   Any thoughts on places to donate? Some of it is high voltage so I want to give it to someone who'd end up hurting themselves, and i don't just want to call an e-waste company as some of it is pretty good stuff.   Thanks to this group for the years of information I've absorbed and occasionally participated in. Glad to see it's still going strong.   Dallas area if that matters.   Steve

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Apr 01 03:39PM +1100 On 1/04/2023 12:23 pm, Steve Kamego wrote:   > Thanks to this group for the years of information I've absorbed and occasionally participated in. Glad to see it's still going strong.   > Dallas area if that matters.   > Steve   **There is an excellent Facebook group, inhabited by people who have a passion for test equipment:   https://www.facebook.com/groups/VintageElectronicTestEquipment   I'm pretty certain you will find people in your area who would be happy to assist you in your task.     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

danny burstein <dannyb@panix.com>: Apr 01 05:08AM [snip]   Check and see if there's an Amateur Radio Club in your area. Usually there's at least someone in them who chews on copper wires for breakfast.     -- _____________________________________________________ Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key dannyb@panix.com [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Apr 01 07:19AM -0600 On Sat, 1 Apr 2023 05:08:23 -0000 (UTC), danny burstein   >Check and see if there's an Amateur Radio Club >in your area. Usually there's at least someone >in them who chews on copper wires for breakfast.   I never did that !     KenW

steve1001908@outlook.com: Apr 01 03:08PM +0100 >>in your area. Usually there's at least someone >>in them who chews on copper wires for breakfast.   >I never did that !   Copper wires have been used to produce Danish blue cheese. It works faster than steel wires. A bit too strong taste for breakfast!

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