Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Gary Shaddick <none@nowhere.net>: Sep 11 11:19AM -0400

A fellow ham operator is having a problem: every time he transmits with
an amplifier in place, he either blows the amplifier fuses and/or
destroys the tubes if using the tube unit he has. He has been keeping
drive to the amp as recommended and even has tried low drive first, but
once he tries full output on either amp, they go out. He's tried
different antennas but to no avail. He can run the radio by itself at
200 W into any of his antennas with no issues whatsoever (the amp is 500
W). His SWR's have been normal, even at the time the amps stop working.
Notice I said amps because the same behavior happens on both of the two
amps he owns.
 
I've suggested possible RFI issues somehow causing the issue, but this
is just a guess. I'm just as perplexed as he is.
 
Any thoughts you have would be welcome and I could run suggestions by him.
 
Thanks in advance,
Gary
peter@easthope.ca: Sep 10 10:55AM -0700

Hi,
 
The supply in this photo powers an incandescent bulb of a Zeiss
microscpe. http://easthope.ca/ZeissLampSupplyLPS7.5.jpg
 
That supply accepts 110 V input. The bulb is marked 6 V 15 W. For
several decades, the 'scope was commoplace in North America. Likely a
similar supply accepting 220 V input was common outside North
America.
 
I want to find a power adapter which accepts 220 V input. eBay has
this and similar listings. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185935059631
 
If the output connection is compatible with the plug on the lamp cord,
the supply should work but the total price is approximately 670
Canadian dollars. =8~/ Rather pricey to power a small bulb.
 
A simple alternative is a 6 V brick adapter and potentiometer.
 
Other ideas?
 
Thanks, ... Peter E.
John Robertson <jrr@flippers.com>: Sep 10 10:49PM -0700


> A simple alternative is a 6 V brick adapter and potentiometer.
 
> Other ideas?
 
> Thanks, ... Peter E.
 
Simple to make a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) power supply for 6VDC at a
few amps. Cost well under $100 with enclosure.
 
You need a pot that handles at least 15W, preferably 25 to 50W to avoid
overheating.
 
Something like this, but it would draw 1/2A if wired across the 6VDC supply:
 
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/bat-power-potentiometer-5a-6202
 
Or if you can find a 24 to 50 ohm 50W potentiometer/rheostat.
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
#7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid>: Sep 11 07:56AM +0100

> Canadian dollars. =8~/ Rather pricey to power a small bulb.
 
> A simple alternative is a 6 V brick adapter and potentiometer.
 
> Other ideas?
 
I assume you don't have the 110V power supply (or you do have it and it
doesn't work) as then the simplest solution would be a 220V - 110V
transformer. If you don't have the supply, can you get a connector for
the microscope power supply, or would you have to modify the wiring?
 
Anything here cheaper and suitable:
<https://picclick.com/Popular/zeiss-power-supply>
 
--
 
Jeff
"John Keiser" <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Sep 11 02:47PM


> A simple alternative is a 6 V brick adapter and potentiometer.
 
> Other ideas?
 
> Thanks, ... Peter E.
 
Temu [usually ships quickly fron US] or AliExpress [ships slow from
China] has low volatage PWM motor controls for only a few dollars that
you could adapt.
Andrew Smallshaw <andrews@sdf.org>: Sep 11 11:27AM

Hi all
 
I've recently picked up an old Weir bench PSU and recalibrated it
to within quite sharp tolerances. However, the front panel meter
(switchable between voltage and current, although the schematic
shows it is working as voltmeter in both modes) reads accurately,
but the settling time must be a good 10-15 seconds before it stops
oscillating back and forth.
 
I haven't got as far as pulling the meter out yet but I expect
obtaining a compatible replacement will be difficult. Looking at
online it seems most practical sources sources address electrical
damping for brief transients in the signal, this is rather the
mechanical side of things. Basic research suggests pneumatic
damping is the usual order of the day but I haven't found anything
relating to actual maintenance and adjustment.
 
Does anyone have practical experience or is a replacement meter
the usual approach?
 
--
Andrew Smallshaw
andrews@sdf.org
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 11 09:13AM -0400

On Mon, 11 Sep 2023 11:27:28 -0000 (UTC), Andrew Smallshaw
>relating to actual maintenance and adjustment.
 
>Does anyone have practical experience or is a replacement meter
>the usual approach?
 
. . . . unless the meter is reading a real disturbance . . .
 
There's probably a failed capacitor inside that needs replacing.
Could even be an electrolytic across the meter terminals.
Most sensitive moving coil meters (<1mA) are pretty much self-
damping and won't require much filtering to average a measurement.
 
RL
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