sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 12 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Remote Controlled Switch Socket - Plug n Play, No Drilling Holes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/21a3aecd197ca1fa?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 10:34 am
From: Jeffrey D Angus

takveen@gmail.com wrote:
> The emote Controlled Switch Sockets

So how do you set it to know when you're happy or sad?

Jeff

--
"Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity."
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 12:24 pm
From: Winston

On 4/23/2010 10:34 AM, Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> takveen@gmail.com wrote:
>> The emote Controlled Switch Sockets
>
> So how do you set it to know when you're happy or sad?

If you want to *appear* happy, click the smiley button.
It is, after all, an Emote Controller.

--Winston

Gary was a liar, a thief, a scoundrel and a psychologist.
He was the most redundant man I ever met.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Detectron Geiger Counter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/172aa0a4a231f69a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 10:38 am
From: "Chris F."

>
> Schematic of the DG-9 model:
> <http://www.curtcass.com/detectron/dg9-sch.jpg>
> Probably quite similar to the DG-7.

I came across that already, but it's quite different and therefore not much
help.

>
> Replace it with what? Is silicon, the B+ is probably too high.
>
I tried putting a decade resistor in series with the diode, but even at
100k-ohms it still didn't make a difference. It still oscillates even with
the diode disconnected.

>>and testing the tubes.
>
> How? With a tube tester? I sometimes work on ancient Motorola radios
> with pencil tubes. I have to make my own adapter to work in the tube
> tester.

Yes, I checked these with a tube tester, and even trying subbing them with
new-old-stock tubes.

>
> Nope. Probably a neon lamp used as a regulator. Photo?
>
Here's a photo of the circuit:

http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk275/packrat79/?action=view&current=detectron.jpg

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 11:39 am
From: Sjouke Burry

Chris F. wrote:
>> When the b+ becomes to high, the gas-discharge tubes start
>> oscillating, producing a steady stream of pulses.
>>
>> So start with lowering b+ to zero, and then increase, until
>> either back at 90 volts, or the pulses re-appear.
>> At that point lower the voltage a bit, and re-check with your
>> radiation source.
>> Also there should be a capacitor across the tubes somewhere,
>> If so, check their quality(leakage and value).
>
> Already tried that, and I replaced all the ceramic capacitors in the
> circuit. By gas-discharge tube, are you referring to the neon lamp inside?
> There's another tube, with just two leads, that I can't identify or test.
> See this photo:
> http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk275/packrat79/?action=view&current=detectron.jpg
>
>
No, I was referring to a detector tube filled with neon, where
the voltage on the tube is just below the sustained ignition level,
and where the charged particle causes a conducting ion trail, which
discharges the parallel capacitor a little bit, causing the click
signal you can pick off. The feed resistor slowly restores the voltage
accross the tube/cap. The amplitude of the click shows the energy level
of the detected particle. Long ago I built a cosmic ray detector/display
using these tubes.
Name is geiger muller tube I think.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 4:04 pm
From: "Chris F."

>>
> No, I was referring to a detector tube filled with neon, where
> the voltage on the tube is just below the sustained ignition level,
> and where the charged particle causes a conducting ion trail, which
> discharges the parallel capacitor a little bit, causing the click signal
> you can pick off. The feed resistor slowly restores the voltage
> accross the tube/cap. The amplitude of the click shows the energy level
> of the detected particle. Long ago I built a cosmic ray detector/display
> using these tubes.
> Name is geiger muller tube I think.

OK I understand. But that's still not the problem, because the unit produces
its own clicks whether the probe is connected or not........

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 5:47 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 10:38:23 -0700, "Chris F." <zappyman@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>> Schematic of the DG-9 model:
>> <http://www.curtcass.com/detectron/dg9-sch.jpg>
>> Probably quite similar to the DG-7.
>
>I came across that already, but it's quite different and therefore not much
>help.

Oh, I was hoping they were similar. Sorry(tm).

>> Replace it with what? Is silicon, the B+ is probably too high.
>>
>I tried putting a decade resistor in series with the diode, but even at
>100k-ohms it still didn't make a difference. It still oscillates even with
>the diode disconnected.

I don't know exactly what series resistor is going to work. 100K is
certainly too large. When I was doing the same thing on much higher
power ancient Motorola radios, about 10 ohms 25 watts was about right.
I'll probably get yelled at for this suggestion, but use an ohmmeter
to mearsure the selenium recifiers forward resistance and use a
resistor with a slightly lower value. I dug around with Google and
found recommendations varying from 30 to 90 ohms for low power
devices.

<http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Can_you_replace_a_selenium_rectifier_with_a_silicon_rectifier>

>Yes, I checked these with a tube tester, and even trying subbing them with
>new-old-stock tubes.

The tubes are probably fine since it does go click on your vasalene
marbles.

>Here's a photo of the circuit:
>http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk275/packrat79/?action=view&current=detectron.jpg

Yech. Note the big paper electrolytic cazapitor. I can't tell if
it's a power supply filter cap or across the meter to smooth the
output. If across the power supply, replace it as judging by the age
and type, it's almost certainly dead. If you have an ESR tester, use
it. (If you don't have one, buy or build one).

I'll stand on my comments that your clip lead and external power
supply kludge is probably causing problems. Find some suitable
electrolytics and place them across where the battery would normally
connect. The idea is to reduce the impedance that the counter sees in
the direction of the power supplies. That should reduce the
motorboating (oscillation).

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kyocera receiver not remembering stations--success!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5233ef8abceafec7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 11:12 am
From: David Nebenzahl

On 4/21/2010 12:18 PM David Nebenzahl spake thus:

> Question is about a Kyocera R-851 receiver, ca. 1985, 85 w./channel.
> Unit is in fine condition (many capacitators have been replaced) except
> for one thing: it doesn't remember radio stations.
>
> This receiver has 7 "presets" each for AM and FM. These can be set, and
> the unit will remember them so long as the power is on. Leave it
> overnight and the settings are gone.
>
> I'm ASSuming that these are stored in memory that may have battery
> backing. Opening the unit reveals no such battery/cell.

But of course, as readers of this thread know, further investigation did
in fact reveal a battery (3-volt Li cell).

Clipped off the old cell (it was attached to the board with little
spot-welded-on "legs"). Found a very similar cell in my battery
collection (flat 3-volt Li large "hearing-aid" style cell). Soldered a
couple wires to it, soldered it to old battery connections, wrapped it
with electrical tape and tucked it into a slot behind the front panel.
The receiver now remembers all presets.

By the way, wasn't there a thread here recently about the difficulties
of soldering connections to such batteries/cells? I had no problem at
all; I cleaned up spots using fine sandpaper (320-400 grit silicon
carbide), then used my old non-lead-free solder and a clean tip on my
iron. Connection was bright and solid.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 11:31 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 11:12:49 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens>wrote:

>On 4/21/2010 12:18 PM David Nebenzahl spake thus:
>
>> Question is about a Kyocera R-851 receiver, ca. 1985, 85 w./channel.
>> Unit is in fine condition (many capacitators have been replaced) except
>> for one thing: it doesn't remember radio stations.
>>
>> This receiver has 7 "presets" each for AM and FM. These can be set, and
>> the unit will remember them so long as the power is on. Leave it
>> overnight and the settings are gone.
>>
>> I'm ASSuming that these are stored in memory that may have battery
>> backing. Opening the unit reveals no such battery/cell.
>
>But of course, as readers of this thread know, further investigation did
>in fact reveal a battery (3-volt Li cell).
>
>Clipped off the old cell (it was attached to the board with little
>spot-welded-on "legs"). Found a very similar cell in my battery
>collection (flat 3-volt Li large "hearing-aid" style cell). Soldered a
>couple wires to it, soldered it to old battery connections, wrapped it
>with electrical tape and tucked it into a slot behind the front panel.
>The receiver now remembers all presets.
>
>By the way, wasn't there a thread here recently about the difficulties
>of soldering connections to such batteries/cells? I had no problem at
>all; I cleaned up spots using fine sandpaper (320-400 grit silicon
>carbide), then used my old non-lead-free solder and a clean tip on my
>iron. Connection was bright and solid.

I recently soldered a 2032 in a Nintendo Game Boy game cartridge for
my son. He wasn't able to save games anymore and the cartridge was
quite old. He did some research and came up with the idea to replace
the 2032. It had legs spot welded and all I had was a blister pack of
several 2032 watch batteries. I did scrape a little on each side then
got the area to accept some solder and added some legs. It wasn't any
issue soldering. The only thing is that it could damage the cell if
you heat it too long. Scraping or sanding and some decent rosin core
Kester does the job.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 12:08 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

It's interesting how many expensive products (and I'm including devices that
sell or sold for over $1000) use soldered-in backup cells, rather than a
battery holder. The battery in a product that gets regular use will often
last long behind its nominal life (10 or 15 years, versus 5), but that's
still no excuse. Indeed, one of the advantages of using a socket is that you
can replace the cell /while the unit is operating/.

My hall synthesizers use a lithium coin cell for backup, and I've replaced
their soldered-in cells with sockets.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: FLX2610 LCD TV repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/62e535b9442a0441?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 11:25 am
From: David Lesher

A friend has a Element FLX2610 Teevee that was a gift. It looks
like it came from Circuit City.

It appears it was made by <http://www.proview.net/> who seem to
have vanished from the US.

There's a claimed service center <http://amergenceinc.com> but
they say they do ONLY in-warranty service

I'm guessing [since it's 1000 miles from me..] that the
illumination has failed. Any suggestions on service data, parts
sources?

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fender Twin reverb from 1979
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ed19ff4ba61ec1a?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 11:40 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison"
> <phil_a@tpg.com.au>wrote:
>
> >
> > ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
> >output stage.
> >
> >The chassis looks like this:
> >
> >http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg
>
> Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
> to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.
>
> And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
> the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.

They are Tinnerman Nuts.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 1:09 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:40:03 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net>wrote:

>
>Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison"
>> <phil_a@tpg.com.au>wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
>> >output stage.
>> >
>> >The chassis looks like this:
>> >
>> >http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg
>>
>> Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
>> to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.
>>
>> And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
>> the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.
>
>
> They are Tinnerman Nuts.

Used to be used a lot in automotive.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 8:16 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Meat Plow"
"Phil Allison"

>>
>> ** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
>>output stage.
>>
>>The chassis looks like this:
>>
http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_Twin_Reverb_79_JBL_04.jpg

>> The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they
>> will
>> also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.

>
> Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
> to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.
>
> And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
> the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.

** The OP stated his bolts were UNC 8-32, 1.5 inches long and there were no
captive nuts - that is exactly what Fender used for many models made in the
late 70s and early 80s.

Was a big improvement over the previous use of very long bolts that wound up
getting bent and were very hard to fit the nuts onto when used near the
power tranny.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: COACH bags ( paypal payment )( http://www.brandtrade10.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da1f5c42a43fa10c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 12:25 pm
From: guccihandbag

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DOLCE&GABBANA bags
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== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 12:26 pm
From: guccihandbag

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TOPIC: bras electronics and recycling...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31ad6512f016e3d0?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 12:37 pm
From: bob

http://tiny.cc/9ycky

bob

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Notebook freezing when connected to external power supply
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ce5b775904c6f5d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 1:00 pm
From: Mike De Petris

I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i
thought it was a Vista-Toshiba issue but only to discover that even in
BIOS it freezes instantly when the charger is plugged in. When the
laptop is off, any attempt to power it on while the charger is plugged
in, results only in a flicker of the power led.
I tried different chargers, ANY possible power options combinations in
Vista and Win7.

If I boot from battery and enter Windows Safe Mode, or Hiren's boot
CD, or WinXP mini all works fine even if I connect the power cord,
where normal Windows and BIOS freeze istantly.

I'm even thing of giving current directly by the battery contacts...
may this be possible?

Any help or advice on possible causes or solution to this issue would
be grateful. Thank you :)

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 9:06 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Apr 23, 3:00 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
> battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i
> thought it was a Vista-Toshiba issue but only to discover that even in
> BIOS it freezes instantly when the charger is plugged in. When the
> laptop is off, any attempt to power it on while the charger is plugged
> in, results only in a flicker of the power led.
> I tried different chargers, ANY possible power options combinations in
> Vista and Win7.
>
> If I boot from battery and enter Windows Safe Mode, or Hiren's boot
> CD, or WinXP mini all works fine even if I connect the power cord,
> where normal Windows and BIOS freeze istantly.
>
> I'm even thing of giving current directly by the battery contacts...
> may this be possible?
>
> Any help or advice on possible causes or solution to this issue would
> be grateful. Thank you :)

What do you mean by freezing, there are devices sold that either heat
or cool, but those are normally sold as refrigerators and heaters. Do
you mean the mouse stops moving, or what????

==============================================================================
TOPIC: intermediate results 2010
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b2fa5c410283204e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 1:01 pm
From: "ranga..............."

intermediate 1st year results 2010

Check intermediate results 2010 Results at

http://knowledgeatheaven.blogspot.com/2010/04/intermediate-results-2010.html

Please click above link to view the intermediate 1st year 2010
results.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony ICF-SW7600 portable radio -- all static
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/edf64e4c9f40262d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 6:56 pm
From: RJO

I've had a great Sony SW7600 portable shortwave/AM/FM radio for years
and it has worked very well. It's probably been on for more than ten
thousand hours overall. This is the model:

http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/portable/icfsw7600.html

A few months ago it started giving only loud static when turned on,
even when tuned to a standard station. If I left it on for an hour or
two it would usually snap back to normal operation and the station
would come in clear again. But now it's gotten to the point that it
never comes back: only loud static when turned on, and for all the
time it is left on. You can faintly detect the signal in the
background in most cases, but it's drowned out by the static. (These
are strong stations I've listened to for a long time; something
changed in the radio, not the environment.)

My mechanical intuition tells me the problem is simple, but I know
nothing about electronics. Is anyone familiar with these old workhorse
portables? If the repair is more complex than whacking it with a
hammer I probably couldn't do it myself, but perhaps it would be worth
sending it out for repair? Or should I toss it in the wastebasket?
Sell it for parts on eBay?

Many thanks.

Bob

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 7:40 pm
From: nesesu

On Apr 23, 6:56 pm, RJO <rjohara....@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've had a great Sony SW7600 portable shortwave/AM/FM radio for years
> and it has worked very well. It's probably been on for more than ten
> thousand hours overall. This is the model:
>
> http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/portable/icfsw7600.html
>
> A few months ago it started giving only loud static when turned on,
> even when tuned to a standard station. If I left it on for an hour or
> two it would usually snap back to normal operation and the station
> would come in clear again. But now it's gotten to the point that it
> never comes back: only loud static when turned on, and for all the
> time it is left on. You can faintly detect the signal in the
> background in most cases, but it's drowned out by the static. (These
> are strong stations I've listened to for a long time; something
> changed in the radio, not the environment.)
>
> My mechanical intuition tells me the problem is simple, but I know
> nothing about electronics. Is anyone familiar with these old workhorse
> portables? If the repair is more complex than whacking it with a
> hammer I probably couldn't do it myself, but perhaps it would be worth
> sending it out for repair? Or should I toss it in the wastebasket?
> Sell it for parts on eBay?
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Bob

From your description, it could be a failure of the solder. Sony has
been notorious for solder problems depending on the factory and
product as well as era it was made. If you can open the set and
operate it, then you could gently probe the components with a thin
insulated probe to see if a bit of pressure in an area restores
operation. One problem doing this is that if the defective joint is
actually moved, it can restore operation for hours, days or months
before it re-appears, If prodding does restore operation, then it is
often effective to simply resolder every joint that looks even
slightly suspect with a suitable small iron and top quality rosin
solder. If the radio is not RoHS compliant, then use tin-lead 63-37
solder.
If prodding around has no effect, the problem might be a defective
semi-conductor. You might also consider replacing all the electrolytic
caps since they are prone to going high ESR with age, again depending
on the date and make.

Neil S.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: safe to use microwave after spark
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b20269eeca00a416?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 7:05 pm
From: lora

Hello,

A family member mistakenly hit the Cook button instead of the Timer
and a small spark was seen. He immediately shut off the power and
everything looks good.

Is it safe to use if all parts are still intact?

Thanks for you advise.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 8:15 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Apr 23, 7:05 pm, lora <anjela_...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> A family member mistakenly hit the Cook button instead of the Timer
> and a small spark was seen. He immediately shut off the power and
> everything looks good.
>
> Is it safe to use if all parts are still intact?
>
> Thanks for you advise.

So put a cup of water in and see if it will heat up. It either will or
will not. My prediction is it will be fine.

G²

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 9:04 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Apr 23, 9:05 pm, lora <anjela_...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> A family member mistakenly hit the Cook button instead of the Timer
> and a small spark was seen. He immediately shut off the power and
> everything looks good.
>
> Is it safe to use if all parts are still intact?
>
> Thanks for you advise.

It would help if you told us where the spark was seen, inside the
oven,, inside the control area, etc??!!!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Picture tube degaussing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a6f0cc34cbf52c0b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 23 2010 9:08 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Apr 22, 1:47 pm, Ron Weston <R...@nosuch.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies so far. My friend is a senior citizen and lives
> alone, so no children have been near the TV. There have been lightning
> storms so that may be what caused her TV problem.
>
> I have a bulk tape eraser. When I visit again first I'll try my
> degaussing coil on the side of the TV as well as the front, and if
> that doesn't work I'll try the eraser.
>
> I'll report back what happens.
>
>
>
> Ron Weston <R...@nosuch.com> wrote:
> >My friend has an inexpensive 9-inch TV, about 6 to 10 years old. It
> >suddenly developed two green spots on the screen, one in the upper
> >right corner and one in the lower right corner.
>
> >I have a "GC Electronics Professional Degaussing Coil" and I made two
> >attempts to degauss the TV picture tube. After the second try the
> >lower green spot was just about gone, and the upper spot is much
> >smaller but can still be seen.
>
> >I'm going to try again next week and I would like some advice. In my
> >attempts so far I moved the degaussing coil around only the front of
> >the TV. Should I try degaussing the sides, top or back of the TV, or
> >might this make things worse?
>
> >Nothing unusual happened to cause the green spots. The TV hasn't been
> >moved in years and no magnets were placed near the TV. Any theories
> >about what happened?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Just be sure to m,ove at least 10 feet away before shutting it off.

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 12 topics - digest

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