sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Don't try this at home.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/654bc359eac6fafb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 12:52 am
From: none@given.now (Joe)

In article <hr9v4b$1o8$1@news.eternal-september.org>, "William
Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> Confusing.

<snip>

What a riot, William! :)

I can think of two reasons why there were few details in that news article:

1. News reporters are typically nincompoops when it comes to anything
requiring real knowledge, especially technical knowledge.

2. The details were delberately omitted for the sake of not providing a
how-to article on stealing of electricity.

--- Joe

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 1:08 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:
> http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100427/od_nm/us_germany_meathook_odd
>
> But the comments look like they might have come from this ng. (-:

tossing a grounded piece of magnet wire tied to a rock or a bolt over a
transmission like is pretty amusing. sometimes you can get what looks like
green lightning.

==============================================================================
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== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Set Top Box connection to a TV (Dick Smith Electronics G1185)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4afdb98ac45b0a08?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 4:00 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Ian Jackson"

> The UK used Ch36 (tuneable +/- two or three using a small screwdriver or
> trimming tool).

** Cos unlike Australia, all colour TV in the UK was on UHF.

> Actually, I see that Australia used the same,

** Absolutely NOT true.

A tiny few ( AFAIK only Sony ) VCRs sold in Australia used Ch 36

> so I don't know why even an old 'VHF-only' type of TV should be 'specially
> equipped' to receive only Ch28 (527.25MHz).

** You don't know the "why" of any damn thing.

Ch 28 ( a government sponsored channel ) was the only UHF channel on air in
Australian capital cities for many years.

.... Phil

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 4:58 am
From: Ian Jackson

In message <hrouoa$8va$1@news-01.bur.connect.com.au>, Phil Allison
<phil_a@tpg.com.au> writes
>
>"Ian Jackson"
>
>> The UK used Ch36 (tuneable +/- two or three using a small screwdriver or
>> trimming tool).
>
>** Cos unlike Australia, all colour TV in the UK was on UHF.
>
>
>> Actually, I see that Australia used the same,
>
>
>** Absolutely NOT true.
>
> A tiny few ( AFAIK only Sony ) VCRs sold in Australia used Ch 36
>
Sadly, I don't have your intimate knowledge of how TV developed in
Australia. It's something I'll try not to regret it until my dying day.
>
>> so I don't know why even an old 'VHF-only' type of TV should be 'specially
>> equipped' to receive only Ch28 (527.25MHz).
>
>
>** You don't know the "why" of any damn thing.
>
>Ch 28 ( a government sponsored channel ) was the only UHF channel on air in
>Australian capital cities for many years.
>
In the UK, even though we only had Ch33 (serving the London area) for a
couple of years or so, we never had TV sets capable of receiving only
that one channel. Maybe the Australians are a load of cheapskates?
--
Ian

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 5:47 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Ian Jackson"
Phil Allison
>"Ian Jackson"
>>
>>> The UK used Ch36 (tuneable +/- two or three using a small screwdriver or
>>> trimming tool).
>>
>>** Cos unlike Australia, all colour TV in the UK was on UHF.
>>
>>
>>> Actually, I see that Australia used the same,
>>
>>
>>** Absolutely NOT true.
>>
>> A tiny few ( AFAIK only Sony ) VCRs sold in Australia used Ch 36.
>
>
> Sadly, I don't have your intimate knowledge of how TV developed in
> Australia.

** Be a real good idea if you shut completely up about the subject then

- wouldn't it ????

> It's something I'll try not to regret it until my dying day.

** Shame to waste the rest of your miserable living in regret

- avoid all the pain and just die now.

>>> so I don't know why even an old 'VHF-only' type of TV should be
>>> 'specially
>>> equipped' to receive only Ch28 (527.25MHz).
>>
>>
>>** You don't know the "why" of any damn thing.
>>
>>Ch 28 ( a government sponsored channel ) was the only UHF channel on air
>>in
>>Australian capital cities for many years.
>>
> In the UK, even though we only had Ch33 (serving the London area) for a
> couple of years or so, we never had TV sets capable of receiving only that
> one channel.

** Australian TVs ( monochrome and colour ) all receive the whole VHF
band - was once up to 15 channels till FM broadcast stole a few.

Never heard of any TVs sold here equipped to receive only UHF ch28 *as
well* as VHF - till the OP mentioned it.

Must be an odd ball.

But not as odd a mad poms like you.

.... Phil

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 7:36 am
From: Ian Jackson

In message <hrp515$b1q$1@news-01.bur.connect.com.au>, Phil Allison
<phil_a@tpg.com.au> writes
>
>"Ian Jackson"
> Phil Allison
>>"Ian Jackson"
>>>
>>>> The UK used Ch36 (tuneable +/- two or three using a small screwdriver or
>>>> trimming tool).
>>>
>>>** Cos unlike Australia, all colour TV in the UK was on UHF.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Actually, I see that Australia used the same,
>>>
>>>
>>>** Absolutely NOT true.
>>>
>>> A tiny few ( AFAIK only Sony ) VCRs sold in Australia used Ch 36.
>>
>>
>> Sadly, I don't have your intimate knowledge of how TV developed in
>> Australia.
>
>
>** Be a real good idea if you shut completely up about the subject then
>
> - wouldn't it ????
>
>
>> It's something I'll try not to regret it until my dying day.
>
>
>** Shame to waste the rest of your miserable living in regret
>
> - avoid all the pain and just die now.
>
>
>
>>>> so I don't know why even an old 'VHF-only' type of TV should be
>>>> 'specially
>>>> equipped' to receive only Ch28 (527.25MHz).
>>>
>>>
>>>** You don't know the "why" of any damn thing.
>>>
>>>Ch 28 ( a government sponsored channel ) was the only UHF channel on air
>>>in
>>>Australian capital cities for many years.
>>>
>> In the UK, even though we only had Ch33 (serving the London area) for a
>> couple of years or so, we never had TV sets capable of receiving only that
>> one channel.
>
>
>** Australian TVs ( monochrome and colour ) all receive the whole VHF
>band - was once up to 15 channels till FM broadcast stole a few.
>
>Never heard of any TVs sold here equipped to receive only UHF ch28 *as
>well* as VHF - till the OP mentioned it.
>
>Must be an odd ball.
>
>But not as odd a mad poms like you.
>
You snipped my thoughts that Australians might be cheapskates, and
(thank heavens!) you haven't commented on it. As it appears that they
didn't produce an 'el cheapo' single-UHF-channel TV set, it would appear
that they're probably normal, lateral-thinking people. Actually, all
those whom I've met are quite nice, so I suppose that applies (with
maybe a few notable exceptions) to the whole nation.
--
Ian

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 2:19 pm
From: PeterD

On Tue, 4 May 2010 22:47:26 +1000, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

>
>Never heard of any TVs sold here equipped to receive only UHF ch28 *as
>well* as VHF - till the OP mentioned it.
>
>Must be an odd ball.
>

Years ago, back in the "good old days" of turret tuners, you could
replace one of the VHF bits with a UHF allowing you to receive that
channel. Because in the US the VHF channels always skipped a number in
any given location, you had space for as many as perhaps 5 UHF
channels. You just had to remember that when the dial said "6" for
example, that it was UHF channel "38". Some units even had little
plastic lables so you could properly label the indicator!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Looks similar search engine?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6de20fea92c27ebc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 5:02 am
From: "N_Cook"

Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:1lgut5t4i47bi3pfduvojsap7kmt7c0a2s@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 18:53:40 +0100, Adrian C <email@here.invalid> put
> finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >Google 'usb device id list' and ask your operating system what device id
> >it sees.
>
> You can detect your USB hardware with Microsoft's UVCView utility, or
> with lsusb (Linux):
>
> http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/USB_IDs/UVCView.x86.exe
> http://linuxcommand.org/man_pages/lsusb8.html
> http://sourceforge.net/projects/linux-usb/files/usbutils/
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks for that, not aware of them ,UVCView.x86.exe and also USBview worked
. Webcam identified and driver and manual downloaded.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 9:52 am
From: Sjouke Burry

Franc Zabkar wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 18:53:40 +0100, Adrian C <email@here.invalid> put
> finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>> Google 'usb device id list' and ask your operating system what device id
>> it sees.
>
> You can detect your USB hardware with Microsoft's UVCView utility, or
> with lsusb (Linux):
>
> http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/USB_IDs/UVCView.x86.exe
> http://linuxcommand.org/man_pages/lsusb8.html
> http://sourceforge.net/projects/linux-usb/files/usbutils/
>
> - Franc Zabkar
M$ did not know it but google found:
> ftp://ftp.efo.ru/pub/ftdichip/Utilities/UVCView.x86.exe

==============================================================================
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: PSU eval. # n3252w View Sonic, Model vs11335-1m
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/309ceaf8a98ba4e8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 9:14 am
From: "ctops.legal"

On May 3, 8:41 am, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 2, 9:56 am, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 1, 4:59 pm, Grant <o...@grrr.id.au> wrote:
>
> > > On Sat, 1 May 2010 10:25:34 -0700 (PDT), "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >This PSU looks new, being there is no service manual to d/l that I can
> > > >access (other than the scam sites), the power light comes on after
> > > >hard reset then blinks green, bad PSU right ?, well looking at the
> > > >main board (2006) the general continuity testing turns out ok, the
> > > >specs are as follows:
> > > >PSU outputs: 12 pin output to main board, and 10 pin output to video.
> > > >PSU has no part# that corresponds to any posts here or in Google
> > > >groups, I can clearly see the scratch marks where the PSU has been
> > > >replaced and/or looked at by the face plate, I don't want to purchase
> > > >an replacement PSU to find out it's some other problem that's not
> > > >feasible within the client's budget to find I can't return the PSU for
> > > >a refund.
> > > >Any suggestions would be appreciated, also I suspect a problem with
> > > >the inverter based on the "power on response" which is very similar to
> > > >a PSU failure.
> > > >Description, press power LCD try to start then goes off and the green
> > > >power light blinks green.
>
> > > I recently rescued a faulty LCD with similar problem, would turn off
> > > after very short time. Symptoms like bad caps in power supply, except
> > > this monitor ran off an external 12V power brick and nothing looked
> > > busted around the power board.
>
> > > After much searching I found info on a Russian site which suggested
> > > changing the capacitor across backlight inverter xformer primary as
> > > it had lost capacitance. So I replaced both caps (dual inverter
> > > board for four CCFL tubes) and the thing worked!
>
> > > Replaced 2 x dark red 220nF 250V with 220nF 630VDC or 275VAC polycarbonate
> > > mains rated cap. Had to mount the caps off-board as they were much larger
> > > than the originals, but there was plenty of horizontal space around the
> > > inverter board.
>
> > > What started out looking like a power supply problem was in fact over
> > > on the backlight inverter board.
>
> > > Worth a try?
>
> > > Grant.
> > > --http://bugs.id.au/-Hidequoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Well the unit won't come on (just a flash of blue), then blinking
> > green light. I know the client will pay for a PSU I just need to id
> > this one, the unit was sold in 2007 from what I am reading about this
> > PSU from this particular model there must have been a bad batch of
> > PSU's, and the replacement needs a modified cable, and some people are
> > using the unit with an external PSU. I this trying a new PSU 1st will
> > eliminate the need to take the unit apart any further, thanks for the
> > input.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> The PSU looks like a 2200232015p Rev. 1
>
> A google searched turned up 2 (out of stock), the Unit was sold in
> 2007, any idea where to find a new PSU ?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

View Sonic ftp acces to service manuals;

ftp://supportdocs.viewsonic.com/Documents
username: custaccess
password: Vssm22338

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c04885c7b46754a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 9:37 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:18:13 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>So I tried various techniques to try reproducing the problem today,
>all to no avail.

I don't mean to be overly critical, but I think I see a problem. You
remind me of something I had to deal with when training technicians in
a past life. I referred to it as "Circle the wagons. The Indians are
attacking". This was in reference to the tendency for some techs to
march around the problem area, gain a little more insight, but burn
huge amounts of time going literally in circles. The Indians never
had a chance, after tiring their horses, by going in circles around
the wagons. Both you and the attacking Indians would be far more
effective with a direct assault on the problem. At some point, you
will need to dive into the LCD monitor and get your hands dirty. No
amount of additional insight or diagnostics are going to prevent this
from happening. Even if you isolate the problem to a single capacitor
and totally undestand the failure mechanism, you'll still need to
crack the case and do the necessary parts replacement. Might as well
get it over with now (before your horse gets tired).
<http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair/>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 9:57 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> So I tried various techniques to try reproducing the problem today,
>> all to no avail.

> I don't mean to be overly critical, but I think I see a problem. You
> remind me of something I had to deal with when training technicians
> in a past life. I referred to it as "Circle the wagons. The Indians are
> attacking". This was in reference to the tendency for some techs to
> march around the problem area, gain a little more insight, but burn
> huge amounts of time going literally in circles. The Indians never
> had a chance, after tiring their horses, by going in circles around
> the wagons. Both you and the attacking Indians would be far more
> effective with a direct assault on the problem. At some point, you
> will need to dive into the LCD monitor and get your hands dirty. No
> amount of additional insight or diagnostics are going to prevent this
> from happening. Even if you isolate the problem to a single capacitor
> and totally undestand the failure mechanism, you'll still need to
> crack the case and do the necessary parts replacement. Might
> as well get it over with now (before your horse gets tired).
> http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair

Excellent points, that need to be repeated often.

They're related to the issue of whether you're trying to figure out exactly
what's wrong, or simply getting the unit working again. Often (too often),
you have to abandon the analysis, and "dig in".

My guess is that this problem is related to the power-supply voltages for
the video driver circuits. Second guess would be a bad video driver. (I
don't know whether it's a board or a single chip in this unit.)

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 1:05 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 04 May 2010 09:37:48 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com>wrote:

>On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:18:13 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>So I tried various techniques to try reproducing the problem today,
>>all to no avail.
>
>I don't mean to be overly critical, but I think I see a problem. You
>remind me of something I had to deal with when training technicians in
>a past life. I referred to it as "Circle the wagons. The Indians are
>attacking". This was in reference to the tendency for some techs to
>march around the problem area, gain a little more insight, but burn
>huge amounts of time going literally in circles. The Indians never
>had a chance, after tiring their horses, by going in circles around
>the wagons. Both you and the attacking Indians would be far more
>effective with a direct assault on the problem. At some point, you
>will need to dive into the LCD monitor and get your hands dirty. No
>amount of additional insight or diagnostics are going to prevent this
>from happening. Even if you isolate the problem to a single capacitor
>and totally undestand the failure mechanism, you'll still need to
>crack the case and do the necessary parts replacement. Might as well
>get it over with now (before your horse gets tired).
><http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair/>

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 6:44 pm
From: saber850

On May 4, 12:57 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> >> So I tried various techniques to try reproducing the problem today,
> >> all to no avail.
> > I don't mean to be overly critical, but I think I see a problem. You
> > remind me of something I had to deal with when training technicians
> > in a past life. I referred to it as "Circle the wagons. The Indians are
> > attacking". This was in reference to the tendency for some techs to
> > march around the problem area, gain a little more insight, but burn
> > huge amounts of time going literally in circles. The Indians never
> > had a chance, after tiring their horses, by going in circles around
> > the wagons. Both you and the attacking Indians would be far more
> > effective with a direct assault on the problem. At some point, you
> > will need to dive into the LCD monitor and get your hands dirty. No
> > amount of additional insight or diagnostics are going to prevent this
> > from happening. Even if you isolate the problem to a single capacitor
> > and totally undestand the failure mechanism, you'll still need to
> > crack the case and do the necessary parts replacement. Might
> > as well get it over with now (before your horse gets tired).
> >http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair
>
> Excellent points, that need to be repeated often.
>
> They're related to the issue of whether you're trying to figure out exactly
> what's wrong, or simply getting the unit working again. Often (too often),
> you have to abandon the analysis, and "dig in".
>
> My guess is that this problem is related to the power-supply voltages for
> the video driver circuits. Second guess would be a bad video driver. (I
> don't know whether it's a board or a single chip in this unit.)

Yes, I understand your point.

I think I'm more apt to approach this cautiously for several reasons.

One is that I don't have an urgent need to address the problem. This
is partly due to my other monitor working fine, and also because the
monitor does not malfunction frequently or for extended periods of
time (a couple hours of downtime over several weeks).

Another reason is that I'm not very knowledgeable or experienced on
this type of problem, so I'm ramping up quite a bit.

Yet another reason is that I'm a big proponent of measure twice, cut
once. From what I've read, opening the case isn't simple, and will
likely lead to blemishes. So I'd prefer to minimize the number of
times I have to open it, which can be accomplished by having some
confidence in the problem & solution. I understand that I won't know
or understand every detail. But I don't think knowledge will hurt,
and I'm not in a rush.

So given this list, I find it reasonable to perform some extra
diligence and learn a lot that I don't know, before digging in. I
realize some people have suggested that the caps are a common problem
w/ this monitor, but their problem doesn't seem to be the same as
mine. And I'd prefer to avoid unnecessary de-soldering & soldering,
given that I can actually make things worse. Given the symptoms of
the problem and all that I've learned from this group and the web, I'm
inclined to think the problem is the video board. But since I need to
open the case to get the video board's part & rev numbers, I'll have a
chance to inspect the caps before proceeding.

Thanks to everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. I'll post
back w/ my progress.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 8:15 pm
From: saber850

On May 4, 9:44 pm, saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 4, 12:57 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > >> So I tried various techniques to try reproducing the problem today,
> > >> all to no avail.
> > > I don't mean to be overly critical, but I think I see a problem. You
> > > remind me of something I had to deal with when training technicians
> > > in a past life. I referred to it as "Circle the wagons. The Indians are
> > > attacking". This was in reference to the tendency for some techs to
> > > march around the problem area, gain a little more insight, but burn
> > > huge amounts of time going literally in circles. The Indians never
> > > had a chance, after tiring their horses, by going in circles around
> > > the wagons. Both you and the attacking Indians would be far more
> > > effective with a direct assault on the problem. At some point, you
> > > will need to dive into the LCD monitor and get your hands dirty. No
> > > amount of additional insight or diagnostics are going to prevent this
> > > from happening. Even if you isolate the problem to a single capacitor
> > > and totally undestand the failure mechanism, you'll still need to
> > > crack the case and do the necessary parts replacement. Might
> > > as well get it over with now (before your horse gets tired).
> > >http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair
>
> > Excellent points, that need to be repeated often.
>
> > They're related to the issue of whether you're trying to figure out exactly
> > what's wrong, or simply getting the unit working again. Often (too often),
> > you have to abandon the analysis, and "dig in".
>
> > My guess is that this problem is related to the power-supply voltages for
> > the video driver circuits. Second guess would be a bad video driver. (I
> > don't know whether it's a board or a single chip in this unit.)
>
> Yes, I understand your point.
>
> I think I'm more apt to approach this cautiously for several reasons.
>
> One is that I don't have an urgent need to address the problem. This
> is partly due to my other monitor working fine, and also because the
> monitor does not malfunction frequently or for extended periods of
> time (a couple hours of downtime over several weeks).
>
> Another reason is that I'm not very knowledgeable or experienced on
> this type of problem, so I'm ramping up quite a bit.
>
> Yet another reason is that I'm a big proponent of measure twice, cut
> once. From what I've read, opening the case isn't simple, and will
> likely lead to blemishes. So I'd prefer to minimize the number of
> times I have to open it, which can be accomplished by having some
> confidence in the problem & solution. I understand that I won't know
> or understand every detail. But I don't think knowledge will hurt,
> and I'm not in a rush.
>
> So given this list, I find it reasonable to perform some extra
> diligence and learn a lot that I don't know, before digging in. I
> realize some people have suggested that the caps are a common problem
> w/ this monitor, but their problem doesn't seem to be the same as
> mine. And I'd prefer to avoid unnecessary de-soldering & soldering,
> given that I can actually make things worse. Given the symptoms of
> the problem and all that I've learned from this group and the web, I'm
> inclined to think the problem is the video board. But since I need to
> open the case to get the video board's part & rev numbers, I'll have a
> chance to inspect the caps before proceeding.
>
> Thanks to everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. I'll post
> back w/ my progress.

I opened the case and analyzed all the caps--none are bulging or
leaking/oozing.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 9:12 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 4 May 2010 20:15:46 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>> > >http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair

>I opened the case and analyzed all the caps--none are bulging or
>leaking/oozing.

One small step... etc.

Look at the photos in:
<http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair>
Do you see any bulging or leaks? Nope. Not all caps fail with
obvious physical evidence. That's where the ESR meter is used. You
can test the capacitors without removing them from the circuit.
Lacking that, just get some replacement caps, replace everything
listed in the article, and it should be back to working.

As for a better understanding of what's happening, it's difficult
enough to analyzer a circuit when all the parts are within normal
design limits. However, if you want to see what happens when you
insert a defective capacitor into the circuit, download a free copy of
LTSpice (formerly known as SwitcherCAD),
<http://www.linear.com/designtools/software/>
and buy a collection of SPICE switcher models:
<http://pagesperso-orange.fr/cbasso/Spice.htm>
<http://pagesperso-orange.fr/cbasso/Downloads/LTSpice/PWM%20Switch%20LTSpice.zip>
The author suggests you need the book to understand the models. I
agree.

Get the program working with a proper switching power supply. It
doesn't have to be exactly the same as the Samsung monitor. Then cram
in the equivalent of a bad capacitor, which would be a normal
capacitor, with the same capacitance value as on the label, but with
an added series resistance equal to about 2-5 times maximum ESR.
<http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/2003esrchart.txt>
<http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/graph1.gif>
<http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/graph2.gif>
<http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/graph3.gif>

A subtle hint is that with a switching power supply, the output
voltage almost never goes up when a component fails. It either goes
down, or massive amounts of high frequency ripple appears on the
output. How the rest of the LCD monitor responds to this is a bit of
a guess. Usually, it just shuts down, resulting in a black display.

Also, I forgot to caution you to *NOT* constantly power cycle the
monitor in an attempt to revive the circuit. It's bad enough having
the capacitors blow up. There's a chance that the associated
switching transistors will not appreciate the added load (which is
what's heating the capacitors) and blow up. For example, this loser
of a Dell monitor:
<http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/dell-e173fpb-17lcd-repair/>
usually takes out 6 xsistors, a diode, and anywhere between one and
eight electrolytics. I once tried to fix one, and didn't catch one of
the caps. Within a week, all 6 transistors were again blown.

Also, if you read the above instructions carefully, note that it
mentions resoldering the xformer leads. I do this whether it needs it
or not. What happens is that the xformers operate at about 40KHz(?).
Some of this 40KHz energy is transfered to the xformer leads,
resulting in cracked solder. It's very difficult to see without a
microscope. It was a problem with Tin-Lead solder but is really a
PITA with brittle ROHS Tin-Silver solder. The same thing can happen
at audio frequencies:
<http://www.clarkeaudio.com/nfinfo.htm>

Anyway, your next ordeal will be selecting the proper replacement
capacitors from the Digikey or Mouser online order pages. It's very
easy to pick the wrong part. Be careful, or ask for help. Also, buy
some spares. My prediction is that your matching monitor will soon
have the same problem.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Duracell dumbness
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/65c7b9b0ccb6b01f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 10:00 am
From: Jim Yanik

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hrnfcf$p99$1@news.eternal-september.org:

>>> Mallory * has been running a Duracell commercial showing
>>> technicians working in wind towers. They're using what are
>>> said to be "high-voltage" meters, but which appear to be
>>> clamp-on ammeters. We're told these meters "keep them
>>> safe", and they therefore rely on Duracell /rechargeable/
>>> batteries.
>
>> Ha, do you like the klaxon noise and danger graphics they
>> add to the meters in the commercial, too?
>
> Anything to hype the product, right?
>
>
>

it still will not get me to buy those leaky Duracells.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 11:00 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>>> Mallory * has been running a Duracell commercial showing
>>>> technicians working in wind towers. They're using what are
>>>> said to be "high-voltage" meters, but which appear to be
>>>> clamp-on ammeters. We're told these meters "keep them
>>>> safe", and they therefore rely on Duracell /rechargeable/
>>>> batteries.

>>> Ha, do you like the klaxon noise and danger graphics they
>>> add to the meters in the commercial, too?

>> Anything to hype the product, right?

> It still will not get me to buy those leaky Duracells.

Duracells are the only alkalines I've ever had leak. Eveready and Toshiba
never have.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 4:00 pm
From: Jim Yanik

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:hrpnbs$l6l$1@news.eternal-september.org:

>>>>> Mallory * has been running a Duracell commercial showing
>>>>> technicians working in wind towers. They're using what are
>>>>> said to be "high-voltage" meters, but which appear to be
>>>>> clamp-on ammeters. We're told these meters "keep them
>>>>> safe", and they therefore rely on Duracell /rechargeable/
>>>>> batteries.
>
>>>> Ha, do you like the klaxon noise and danger graphics they
>>>> add to the meters in the commercial, too?
>
>>> Anything to hype the product, right?
>
>> It still will not get me to buy those leaky Duracells.
>
> Duracells are the only alkalines I've ever had leak. Eveready and Toshiba
> never have.
>
>
>

don't buy those Harbor Freight "Thunderbolt" alkalines;
they are the WORST leakers I've ever seen.
Half the box leaked -in the box- before I ever got to use them. Within
months of purchase.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ATX power supply fan noisy.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 11:15 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <m54lt5demg9ddj1g4slrvsgmd9qut984ao@4ax.com>, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> writes

>Ceramic bearings appear to be even better:
>http://www.ceramicafans.com/whyceramic.htm

Also known as Vapo bearings.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny's thinking about giving Windows 7
(")_(") a go despite what he's said about it...

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, May 4 2010 11:14 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <4bd8760c$0$27713$bd467cd0@news.dslextreme.com>, David Farber
<farberbear.unspam@aol.com> writes

>I would like to replace this two-wire, 80mm square, power supply fan. The
>power supply is used in an AudioReQuest music server and is powered on
>continuously. The part number is, NMB-MAT 7 followed by a model number of,
>3110GL-B4W-B54. 12V DC, 0.30A.

Funnily enough, I've just replaced one of those today.

> I've found a few places online that have them
>listed but when I call they, don't have them in stock or the price is
>prohibitively expensive. Is there some generic fan that will replace this
>and not cost more than the power supply itself?

Yeah, you can use a generic replacement but if it's powered 24/7 it
won't last long. Find a good quality ball-bearing replacement from the
likes of NMB-Mat, Panasonic or Papst. You'll be glad you did.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny's thinking about giving Windows 7
(")_(") a go despite what he's said about it...

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tudor Watch sale (paypal payment)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3c3e8af77459875d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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