sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Set Top Box connection to a TV (Dick Smith Electronics G1185) - 1 messages,
1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4afdb98ac45b0a08?hl=en
* LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black - 9 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c04885c7b46754a?hl=en
* PSU eval. # n3252w View Sonic, Model vs11335-1m - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/309ceaf8a98ba4e8?hl=en
* USB malfunction ? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ffbb742b61c8b6b2?hl=en
* Rob@welzijnpernis.speedlinq.nl - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b1e5c49ae8b9f9b?hl=en
* ATX power supply fan noisy. - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
* RCA TV model F27665, CH. CTC203AX shut down problem - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/688cd1ff34ca5f27?hl=en
* Sony KV-2784R horiz problem - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf85a32f811047d5?hl=en
* Part # of Magnetron for Microwave Oven Emerson MW9107WC - 5 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77addde8cb547fd?hl=en
* Remote control modulator & demodulator - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/132d94f9df784fc3?hl=en
* Kyocera receiver not remembering stations - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5233ef8abceafec7?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Set Top Box connection to a TV (Dick Smith Electronics G1185)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4afdb98ac45b0a08?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 10:52 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

<pwu@qantas.com.au>

> 2. I guess the next thing would be to try it on A/V

** The DSE set top box only outputs video signals - so you MUST use the AV
inputs on your TV.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c04885c7b46754a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 1:01 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:9edst5drns9dhhvmbonl5gds2v615pn9bm@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 2 May 2010 17:53:14 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On May 2, 5:10 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
> >> This might be of interest:
> >> <http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/>
> >> <http://www.djhome.net/tips/samsungsyncmaster204T.htm>
> >> I've seen both problems on the bench with similar Samsung models.
>
> >This is great info; thanks. The website links you found refer to the
> >problem as "flickering". Is that the condition my monitor has, given
> >the video I posted?
>
> No, it's not the same. What's probably happening is that as your
> power supply warms up, the cazapitors are starting to also get hot. My
> guess(tm) is that the power supply output voltages drop, causing the
> odd changes to white and black. The symptoms of having the wrong
> power supply voltage vary radically with the type of circuit and which
> capacitors are a problem. I've seen flickering, fades, time delayed
> sudden failure, smoke, fire, and most commonly, just plain no picture.
> Given a specific single component failure, it's possible to predict
> the symptoms. Given multiple partial failures, it's at best a guess.
>
> Open up the monitor (it's a royal pain), replace all the big caps
> whether they look bad or not, and live happily ever after. If you're
> into being sure, I suggest you look into purchasing or building an ESR
> (equivalent series resistance) meter, as you're guaranteed to run into
> this problem in other devices that use electrolytics (motherboards,
> TV's, power supplies, monitors, game boxes, router, etc). I use mine
> far too often.
>
> <http://www.ludens.cl/Electron/esr/esr.html>
> <http://www.anatekcorp.com/blueesr.htm>
> <http://www.flippers.com/esrktmtr.html> (I have this one)
> <http://www.midwestdevices.com/index.html>
>
> More good reading on LCD repair:
> <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/category/monitor-repair/>
> Note how just about all the failures are electrolytic capacitors.
> Here's your Syncmaster 204 page:
> <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair/>
> Note the they're symptoms include a "dark picture". Hmmmm...
>
>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Could placing a small 12V fan temporarily, at least, in that area be a
diagnostic tool ?

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 4:37 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Incidentally, having two identical monitors is a bad idea.
> Sympathetic failure and contagious failure modes has been
> known to propagate between the bad monitor and the good.
> I would keep them apart just to be safe.

Uva uvam videndo varia fit, right?

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 4:45 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 2 May 2010 07:22:40 -0700 (PDT), saber850
<saber850@yahoo.com>wrote:

>On May 2, 9:40?am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk>wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> >news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>> >> Hi,
>>
>> >> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>> >> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>> >> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>> >> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>
>> >> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>> >> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>> >> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>> >> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>
>> >> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>> >> monitor powered on.
>>
>> >> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>> >> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>> >> connection. ?Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>> >> continues to function properly. ?When the monitor exhibits the
>> >> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>> >> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>> >> computer.
>>
>> >> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>> >> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>> >> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>> >> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>> >> malfunctions again.
>>
>> >> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>> >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>> >> Best regards,
>> >> Nick
>>
>> >Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>> >Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>> >the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>> >monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>>
>> What brand/model monitor?
>> What brand/model card with NVidia chip?
>>
>> Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
>> Does the video card have a DSUB I/O
>>
>> The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
>> but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.
>
>Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
>The video card is a ASUS EN7600GT.
>
>The monitors have 1 DSUB I/O port and 1 VGA I/O port. I've only ever
>used the DSUB I/O.
>The video card has two DSUB I/O ports. Each one is connected to a
>monitor.
>
>As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
>swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
>malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
>monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
>properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
>functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?
>
>Is the PSU typically isolated from other circuitry in the monitor such
>that it can be replaced?

The 7600 I looked at had only two DVI ports. What I was trying to get
at was trying the monitors on a DSUB port. But after reading a post
from PlainBill his solution is more plausible than mine although
buttressing my point of a video processing problem rather than a
backlighting issue. If you were losing back light you would still be
able to see the image by shining a light on the monitor at an oblique
angle

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 7:37 am
From: Adrian C

On 03/05/2010 03:50, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Incidentally, having two identical monitors is a bad idea. Sympathetic
> failure and contagious failure modes has been known to propagate
> between the bad monitor and the good.

It's not only that. There is a grating feeling when two otherwise
identical items have one that shows signs of minor inferiority. It's a
sick child, something that is crying out for some attention.

Ye feel you should be doing something about the one that is failing, but
the affliction is so slight that technically it's not a worthwhile
process of either taking the cover off or approaching the service agent
with complaints.

However, that feeling is however a stress to be remembered and
eventually dealt with as with all the other stresses one unfortunately
collects.

Now, if you only had one of the item and that fault was so minor, you'd
probably be not so aware of the problem, and certainly not so aware of
the stress ...

Life is simpler. I'm going to disconnect one of my stereo speakers and
live with mono. ;-)

--
Adrian C

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 8:07 am
From: saber850

On May 2, 10:46 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 2 May 2010 17:53:14 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On May 2, 5:10 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> >> This might be of interest:
> >> <http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/>
> >> <http://www.djhome.net/tips/samsungsyncmaster204T.htm>
> >> I've seen both problems on the bench with similar Samsung models.  
> >This is great info; thanks.  The website links you found refer to the
> >problem as "flickering".  Is that the condition my monitor has, given
> >the video I posted?
>
> No, it's not the same.  What's probably happening is that as your
> power supply warms up, the cazapitors are starting to also get hot. My
> guess(tm) is that the power supply output voltages drop, causing the
> odd changes to white and black.  The symptoms of having the wrong
> power supply voltage vary radically with the type of circuit and which
> capacitors are a problem.  I've seen flickering, fades, time delayed
> sudden failure, smoke, fire, and most commonly, just plain no picture.
> Given a specific single component failure, it's possible to predict
> the symptoms.  Given multiple partial failures, it's at best a guess.
>
> Open up the monitor (it's a royal pain), replace all the big caps
> whether they look bad or not, and live happily ever after.  If you're
> into being sure, I suggest you look into purchasing or building an ESR
> (equivalent series resistance) meter, as you're guaranteed to run into
> this problem in other devices that use electrolytics (motherboards,
> TV's, power supplies, monitors, game boxes, router, etc).  I use mine
> far too often.
>
> <http://www.ludens.cl/Electron/esr/esr.html>
> <http://www.anatekcorp.com/blueesr.htm>
> <http://www.flippers.com/esrktmtr.html> (I have this one)
> <http://www.midwestdevices.com/index.html>
>
> More good reading on LCD repair:
> <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/category/monitor-repair/>
> Note how just about all the failures are electrolytic capacitors.
> Here's your Syncmaster 204 page:
> <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair/>
> Note the they're symptoms include a "dark picture".  Hmmmm...
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Very helpful, thanks.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 8:09 am
From: saber850

On May 2, 10:50 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 2 May 2010 17:58:59 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >If it is the invertor or the power supply circuit, would either be
> >worth repairing/replacing instead of replacing the entire monitor?  Is
> >there any part of an LCD monitor whose expense would not justify its
> >replacement, and to simply replace the monitor as a whole?
>
> The Samsung SyncMonster 204/214 is all one big board.  There are
> replacement boards available on eBay but they tend to have the same
> problem that you're trying to fix.
>
> Sending the monitor to the recyclers for such a simple problem will
> surely bring down upon your head the wrath of all repairmen,
> ecologists, and toxic waste handlers.  To maintain your karma, you
> must at least make an attempt at repair.
>
> Incidentally, having two identical monitors is a bad idea. Sympathetic
> failure and contagious failure modes has been known to propagate
> between the bad monitor and the good.  I would keep them apart just to
> be safe.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

I'm all for repairing it, but I just want to make sure the repair is
cost effective. From the information I've received from this group,
and websites, it seems the repair will be very inexpensive if it's
just some capacitors.

Is there a way I can gain confidence that the problem is w/ the
capacitors, before opening it up?

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 8:20 am
From: saber850

On May 3, 4:01 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
>
> news:9edst5drns9dhhvmbonl5gds2v615pn9bm@4ax.com...
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 2 May 2010 17:53:14 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > >On May 2, 5:10 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
> > >> This might be of interest:
> > >> <http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/>
> > >> <http://www.djhome.net/tips/samsungsyncmaster204T.htm>
> > >> I've seen both problems on the bench with similar Samsung models.
>
> > >This is great info; thanks.  The website links you found refer to the
> > >problem as "flickering".  Is that the condition my monitor has, given
> > >the video I posted?
>
> > No, it's not the same.  What's probably happening is that as your
> > power supply warms up, the cazapitors are starting to also get hot. My
> > guess(tm) is that the power supply output voltages drop, causing the
> > odd changes to white and black.  The symptoms of having the wrong
> > power supply voltage vary radically with the type of circuit and which
> > capacitors are a problem.  I've seen flickering, fades, time delayed
> > sudden failure, smoke, fire, and most commonly, just plain no picture.
> > Given a specific single component failure, it's possible to predict
> > the symptoms.  Given multiple partial failures, it's at best a guess.
>
> > Open up the monitor (it's a royal pain), replace all the big caps
> > whether they look bad or not, and live happily ever after.  If you're
> > into being sure, I suggest you look into purchasing or building an ESR
> > (equivalent series resistance) meter, as you're guaranteed to run into
> > this problem in other devices that use electrolytics (motherboards,
> > TV's, power supplies, monitors, game boxes, router, etc).  I use mine
> > far too often.
>
> > <http://www.ludens.cl/Electron/esr/esr.html>
> > <http://www.anatekcorp.com/blueesr.htm>
> > <http://www.flippers.com/esrktmtr.html> (I have this one)
> > <http://www.midwestdevices.com/index.html>
>
> > More good reading on LCD repair:
> > <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/category/monitor-repair/>
> > Note how just about all the failures are electrolytic capacitors.
> > Here's your Syncmaster 204 page:
> > <http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-214t-repair/>
> > Note the they're symptoms include a "dark picture".  Hmmmm...
>
> > --
> > Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> > 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> > Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> > Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
>
> Could placing a small 12V fan temporarily, at least, in that area be a
> diagnostic tool ?

Yes, I considered this. Unfortunately, as I described, the problem is
very random. For example, it has not surfaced in over a week. So by
trying to cool it, I don't know if it's actually helping, or luck.
The same problem applies to the suggestions I've received to replace
the caps outlined on that website. While I'd be happy to do it, I
won't really know if it has helped for a couple months.

One thing I'd really like is to find a trigger for this problem. I
will try heat today. Is there a way to "stress" the monitor's
electronics, to try reproducing the issue? Would changing the image
rapidly have any effect? Should I display a solid color (perhaps
white) on it?

With a reasonably reliable repro procedure (even if it takes hours), I
can then get more info, and attempt to fix it, all while having some
confidence that my changes have either helped or not.

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:23 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 3 May 2010 04:37:58 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> Incidentally, having two identical monitors is a bad idea.
>> Sympathetic failure and contagious failure modes has been
>> known to propagate between the bad monitor and the good.
>> I would keep them apart just to be safe.
>
>Uva uvam videndo varia fit, right?

<http://alkek.library.txstate.edu/swwc/ld/ldex081a1.html>
I don't think Samsung uses grape juice in their capacitors.

Monitor failures really are contagious. In about 2004, I purchased 9
almost identical Dell systems, all with E173FPF(?) LCD displays. They
worked just fine for 3 years, when they started failing. The ones
that were the warmest and powered on the longest failed first. Within
about 2 months, 6 had developed bad capacitor failure symptoms. What
I found amazing was there was one monitor that was left in the box for
about 2 years. It was used to replace the first monitor failure, and
promptly died about 6 months later. Apparently, they age in the box.
When asked by the owner what was happening, I joked that such failures
were contagious. Unfortunately, my explanation leaked all over the
company with predictable embarrassment. I had to write a company wide
memo explaining what was really happening, what I was doing to fix it,
and apologize for my bad joke. (However, I didn't promise not to do
it again).

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:33 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 3 May 2010 08:09:58 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Is there a way I can gain confidence that the problem is w/ the
>capacitors, before opening it up?

Drugs work well for improving confidence. I find that I perform my
most heroic feats of daring and self-endangerment when thoroughly
doped to just below the point of going comatose. This steadies the
hand, improves on my diagnostic abilities, and opens me to a variety
of unusual approaches. The only problem is that I have difficulties
remembering what changes I've made while under the influence and have
therefore resorted to using a camcorder or digital camera. This helps
answer the inevitable questions "What was I thinking"?

I'll refrain from recommending specific controlled substances and
prescription drugs as each technician responds differently. For
starters, anti-depressants and anti-anxiety drugs work well for
elevating one's self-confidence.
<http://www.alphacalm.com/anti-anxiety-drugs/>

However, if the chemical confidence builder solution is not for you, I
suggest you purchase an ESR tester (see previous rant), and test the
capacitors in the circuit. Yes, it works without removing the caps.
Also, look for bulges, leaks, brown goo, and oozing rubber plugs.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PSU eval. # n3252w View Sonic, Model vs11335-1m
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/309ceaf8a98ba4e8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 5:41 am
From: "ctops.legal"

On May 2, 9:56 am, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 1, 4:59 pm, Grant <o...@grrr.id.au> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sat, 1 May 2010 10:25:34 -0700 (PDT), "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >This PSU looks new, being there is no service manual to d/l that I can
> > >access (other than the scam sites), the power light comes on after
> > >hard reset then blinks green, bad PSU right ?, well looking at the
> > >main board (2006) the general continuity testing turns out ok, the
> > >specs are as follows:
> > >PSU outputs: 12 pin output to main board, and 10 pin output to video.
> > >PSU has no part# that corresponds to any posts here or in Google
> > >groups, I can clearly see the scratch marks where the PSU has been
> > >replaced and/or looked at by the face plate, I don't want to purchase
> > >an replacement PSU to find out it's some other problem that's not
> > >feasible within the client's budget to find I can't return the PSU for
> > >a refund.
> > >Any suggestions would be appreciated, also I suspect a problem with
> > >the inverter based on the "power on response" which is very similar to
> > >a PSU failure.
> > >Description, press power LCD try to start then goes off and the green
> > >power light blinks green.
>
> > I recently rescued a faulty LCD with similar problem, would turn off
> > after very short time.  Symptoms like bad caps in power supply, except
> > this monitor ran off an external 12V power brick and nothing looked
> > busted around the power board.
>
> > After much searching I found info on a Russian site which suggested
> > changing the capacitor across backlight inverter xformer primary as
> > it had lost capacitance.  So I replaced both caps (dual inverter
> > board for four CCFL tubes) and the thing worked!  
>
> > Replaced 2 x dark red 220nF 250V with 220nF 630VDC or 275VAC polycarbonate
> > mains rated cap.  Had to mount the caps off-board as they were much larger
> > than the originals, but there was plenty of horizontal space around the
> > inverter board.
>
> > What started out looking like a power supply problem was in fact over
> > on the backlight inverter board.
>
> > Worth a try?
>
> > Grant.
> > --http://bugs.id.au/-Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well the unit won't come on (just a flash of blue), then blinking
> green light. I know the client will pay for a PSU I just need to id
> this one, the unit was sold in 2007 from what I am reading about this
> PSU from this particular model there must have been a bad batch of
> PSU's, and the replacement needs a modified cable, and some people are
> using the unit with an external PSU. I this trying a new PSU 1st will
> eliminate the need to take the unit apart any further, thanks for the
> input.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The PSU looks like a 2200232015p Rev. 1

A google searched turned up 2 (out of stock), the Unit was sold in
2007, any idea where to find a new PSU ?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: USB malfunction ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ffbb742b61c8b6b2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 6:38 am
From: "N_Cook"

I know nothing of USB function other than what I've just read on
usb-in-a-nutshell.pdf
and the datasheet for Cypress AN2131QC USB chip .
I downloaded legacy installer.exe and firmware stuff from
www.event1.com/Support/EZbus/Updates/firmware.htm
for an Ezbus digital mixer. Unzips and apparently functions on the pc.

Cannot connect PC to the Ezbus, to reload firmware, as not recognised
hotplugging USB and if plugged in before booting PC then it hangs the PC.
On mixer on its own, USB D+ line is low during POST and then goes to and
stays at 3.3V when presumed corrupted system code starts up. The main
controller hangs up at this point also (2 of the 3 clocks present but third
comes from a stuck high pin) and no function of any sort on the mixer .
Could corrupted sysyem code make the USB hang like that or could corrupt USB
chip hang the main control?
What to look at next?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Rob@welzijnpernis.speedlinq.nl
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b1e5c49ae8b9f9b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 8:10 am
From: "petrus bitbyter"

Hallo Rob,

De PC van Costas stond (en staat nog) klaar alleen wist Dirk Jan niet waar.
Het fotoalbum met nog wat andere data heb ik gered en op de computer gezet
in de map "saveddata". De losse 80GB is nu nog te lezen maar ik heb geen
idee hoe lang hij dat volhoudt. Dat kan tussen tien minuten en tien jaar
zijn. Persoonlijk acht ik hem niet betrouwbaar genoeg meer voor normaal
gebruik. Hoogstens kun je er nog mee experimenteren.

Groeten,

Piet Kralt

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ATX power supply fan noisy.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 9:22 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> I've never had the any luck rejuvenating fans with lubrication after
> the fan's bearings have started to howl.

I've never let one go so far as to howl. Nor have I heard one do that!
The fans I've oiled were usually making a grumbling noise and it was
intermittent in most cases.

There's no harm in trying it.

Just about three days ago, I broke a blade off of an Intel CPU
cooler's fan. I puzzled about what to do, as the fan is an unusual
type and I don't have any other Pentium III compatible coolers sitting
around. What I finally did was to super glue the blade back on. The
repair appears to be robust after two days worth of running. What's
more, the balance appears not to have been affected at all by this
little "whoopsy".

William

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 12:32 pm
From: UCLAN

mm wrote:

>>>>Any 2-wire, 80mm, 12VDC, 0.30A (approx) will do. Got a Radio Shack nearby?
>>>>http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102826 will do.
>>>>
>>>>Probably cheaper at some place like Frys.
>>>
>>>Radio shack has a great webpage in many ways, but one enormous flaw is
>>>that if you click on a link, it might say the part is out of stock,
>>>even when stores have it.
>>
>>As with all websites (Petco, Best Buy, Home Depot, etc.) information
>>given for a product (availability, price, etc.) is for the website
>>ONLY! There is no way a website can pretend to keep up with the stock
>>details of thousands of retail stores.
>
> The first paragraph is a digression.

??? Whose first paragraph? Not mine. The word "all" includes even
Radio Shack.

> I gather you have posted without knowing much about the radio shack
> website. One of the reasons I called it a great webpage is that it
> does indeed "pretend to keep up with the stock ....of its retail
> stores."

Not at all true. I suggest you read the "ITEM AVAILABILITY" section
of its website:

"...Some items are either temporarily out-of-stock online (and may be
available at your local RadioShack retail store)..."

>>And only in a minority of cases
>>does a retail store match the price of a website.
>
> Their own website? It's you who recommended a radio shack part. Do
> you think that RS doesn't charge the same price at the store as
> online?

Gee, they even say they might not. From their online site:

"...Prices advertised on this site are for online orders only."

>>Only a fool would
>>think that a website saying "out-of-stock" would necessarily mean that
>>a retail store in BF, Iowa, was also out of stock.
>
> So now you're going to call names. All this misinformation and
> irrelevancy about RS just to call me a fool!

Well, I didn't call you a fool. I wrote that "only a fool would think..."
If that description fits you, fine. If the shoe fits, as they say. As far
as my "misinformation" goes, are you claiming that the information given
at the site is incorrect?

> You don't know much about Radio Shack.

Apparently, much more than do you. I also know how to read fine print at
a website, including Radio Shack's.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCA TV model F27665, CH. CTC203AX shut down problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/688cd1ff34ca5f27?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:36 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Apr 28, 8:40 pm, "Leonard Caillouet" <no...@nohow.not> wrote:
> "klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:3b059486-c1d6-4436-9d6a-7561c5741ba8@s2g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>
> > This set tries to start four times. HV spikes to 20KV each time and
> > then decays to zero. I've seen where "three strikes" on some of the
> > RCA's and the Proscan' s pointed to flyback but I'm not sure I've seen
> > four. Does anyone have any notes on this one?: Thanks, Lenny
>
> If you suspect the flyback, look at the collector pulse with your scope.
>
> Leonard

I found a few things after I wrote to you. There were two overheated
resistors in the vertical circuit. So I thought that I had found the
area of concern. One of these resistors is in one of the 14V supplies.
There is a diode off the flyback, a cap to ground and one of the two
resistors mentioned above, this 300 ohm resistor which goes to ground.
I would have betted on the diode being shorted but it was good. I
checked around the chip and off the flyback and while no supply line
was dead shorted or apparently severely loaded everything looked ok.
The overheated resistors were good as well.
Then I scoped the hor output collector and found that the pulse was
clean and exceeded 800Vpp. I was able to view it by using the vertical
var. control and it could have been 1100 V or so. John from Del's TV
suggested that I look at the regulator on the stand up AV board. Its
a three terminal plastic case on a small heat sink on the upper part
of the board facing the CRT. I wiggled it slightly while looking for
ring cracks and didn't see any. I then tried the set again just for
the heck of it. Amazingly it came on for five seconds and then shut
off. I repeated this another three times and thinking about the last
thing I touched I re soldered the regulator. I then tried the set
again and it stayed on. I've repeated this now about five times from a
cold start and the set seems to consistently come on. So I think the
shutdown problem could have been related to that regulator. I really
want to put some more time on it and see. The vertical deflection
looks fine also so I don't know what the story is with the two
overheated resistors.
But now there is an additional issue. The set was only showing a
"signal unuseable" message in tuner mode. However if you apply
external video and audio to it it works fine. The puzzling thing about
this is with external AV connected as well as cable, you can switch
between the two and although the upper right side of the screen
toggles between VID and then channel indications, only the AV signal
is displayed continuously. So the set seems to only work on video
input. I went through the menu thinking that perhaps the set needs to
be auto programmed but there isn't an option for that. There is "auto
tuning" but nothing that scans through the channels as previous RCA's
did. I don't suspect the tuner because of the screen toggle issue
although I suppose anything is possible. Are there any other issues
with these that you or anyone else who maybe reading this knows of? Oh
btw I also soldered up the coil on the HOT base circuit. Thanks for
all the help. Lenny

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KV-2784R horiz problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf85a32f811047d5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:48 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Apr 30, 10:23 pm, b...@love.ranch wrote:
> OK, I am operating on probabilities here. The rest of the set is 300
> miles away. I have a scope and other necessaries but can't plug the tv
> in. My extension cords are not long enough. I can get a new fbt for
> about $15. what is the probability that will fix it when I carry the
> chassis back and fire it up????????????
>
> I have checked all semis with an ohmmeter and find nothing unusual.
> The set is 24 yrs old and neer had a problem.
> Caps all respond properly to an ohmmeter. I could pull some parts and
> ring them with ac but....
>
> What is the probability a fbt will fix it??
>
> thx
>
> On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:12:20 -0500, Chuck <chu...@deja.net> wrote:
> >On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 16:54:03 -0400, b...@love.ranch wrote:
>
> >>Thanks Chuck, I was just going to ask that.
>
> >>How is it usually checked.
>
> >>There is no continuity between coils at DC.
> >>coil resistance seems within reason but as low as it is that probably
> >>isn't a very good test.
> >>I haven't got one laying around to sub.
> >>It is, after all, 24 yrs old. But the CRT is still OK.
>
> >>Can they be had and at what price????????
>
> >>On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:16:37 -0500, Chuck <chu...@deja.net> wrote:
>
> >>>On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:21:00 -0400, b...@love.ranch wrote:
>
> >>>>Sony KV-2784R died - horiz collapse - fuse F501 blown - pressing power
> >>>>button causes TV to try to start then stops - very soft high freq buzz
> >>>>is heard. Remote control will not start it. HOT and all diodes in area
> >>>>test OK with ohmmeter. Fuse is somewhat blackened at end where it
> >>>>seperated, so it wasn't a slight overload. I do not have schematics.
> >>>>Is there any history of common component failures here.Just for ref, I
> >>>>am very technical and had a repair shop in the 80's - this was built
> >>>>11/86 - just after I closed the shop. So speak to me at that level,
> >>>>thx.
>
> >>>Most common failure on these is a shorted flyback.  Chuck
>
> >If you have a scope with a ten times probe, set the V. input for the
> >highest voltage possible and the H. rate at 20 us and connect the
> >probe to the HOT collector after plugging the tv into an isolation
> >transformer.  Replace the blown fuse and turn on set.  If there is
> >ringing between the HO pulses, power the set down immediately and
> >order a flyback replacement.  I'd check MCM for a replacement.  If
> >they don't have them, sometimes an Asti flyback will work in a Sony
> >set.  (I haven't had any luck with them for other brands.)  Chuck

Shut downs are a pain in the ass. I've done some of those 300 mile
deals as well and they aren't much fun either. So you have no CRT or
yoke and no jig I take it. Pull the flyback and take it to a shop that
has a ringer. Perhaps for a couple of bucks you may be able to get a
sympathetic tech to ring it out for you. At least that way you won't
have to hold your breath ( too much) on the return trip. Lenny

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Part # of Magnetron for Microwave Oven Emerson MW9107WC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77addde8cb547fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:51 am
From: Yimin Rong

On Apr 29, 6:35 pm, "Colin Horsley" <horsley-s...@westnet.com.au>
wrote:
> "Yimin Rong" <yiminr...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
>
> news:f0d91b1e-edd5-4699-804d-1d1ed4e8fa7b@s2g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> Greetings,
>
> Can someone tell me the part # of themagnetronfor microwave ovenEmersonMW9107WC?
> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
> getting a new one.
> Thanks for reading,
> Yimin
>
> _____________________________
>
> How do you know theMagnetronis faulty, and not another component?
>
> Colin

Experience - loud buzzing sound, no power output - likely magnet is
cracked. /YR

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:51 am
From: Yimin Rong

On Apr 29, 9:43 pm, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 09:08:09 -0700 (PDT), Yimin Rong
> <yiminr...@yahoo.ca> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >Can someone tell me the part # of themagnetronfor microwave oven
> >EmersonMW9107WC?
>
> >I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
> >would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
> >part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
> >getting a new one.
>
> According toEmerson'sweb site, and owner's manual, the warranty on
> themagnetronis 7 years (parts only):http://web.archive.org/web/20071218075723/http://www.emersonelectroni...
>
> Owner's Manual:http://emersonelectronics.ca/emerson/documents/MW9107WC%20-%2011%20cu...
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Requires receipt! /YR

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:53 am
From: Yimin Rong

On Apr 30, 1:55 pm, Cydrome Leader <prese...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
> Yimin Rong <yiminr...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> > Greetings,
>
> > Can someone tell me the part # of themagnetronfor microwave oven
> >EmersonMW9107WC?
>
> > I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
> > would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
> > part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
> > getting a new one.
>
> How do you know themagnetronis bad, if you haven't even opened the unit
> yet?

Mostly likely cause. In most ovens I've fixed, the magnetron is very
hard to get to. Not a hard job, just a pain. /YR

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 11:58 am
From: Yimin Rong

On Apr 29, 4:31 pm, "Dave M" <dgminala4...@mediacombb.net> wrote:
> Yimin Rong wrote:
> > Greetings,
>
> > Can someone tell me the part # of themagnetronfor microwave oven
> >EmersonMW9107WC?
>
> > I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
> > would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
> > part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
> > getting a new one.
>
> > Thanks for reading,
>
> > Yimin
>
> Would be easiest for you to call some of the service parts vendors for part
> number, cost and availability.
> MCM Electronics
> email t...@mcmelectronics.com
> phone (800) 824-8324
> M-F 8am-5pm ET
>
> MAT Electronics
> Phone (800) 628-1118
> M-F 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM EST
> Saturday 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM EST
> sa...@matelectronics.com
>
> Electronix Corporation
> Phone: (800) 223-3205 or (937) 878-1828
> sa...@electronix.com
>
> Don't forget to call any appliance parts stores in your area.  Yellow pages
> are a good help.
>
> --
> David
> dgminala at mediacombb dot net

Thank you. Tried that, including some of those on the list. I cringe
when I hear the click, long silence, then a voice from the sub-
continent on the other side. /YR

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 12:29 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> On Apr 29, 6:35?pm, "Colin Horsley" <horsley-s...@westnet.com.au>
> wrote:
>> "Yimin Rong" <yiminr...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
>>
>> news:f0d91b1e-edd5-4699-804d-1d1ed4e8fa7b@s2g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>> Greetings,
>>
>> Can someone tell me the part # of themagnetronfor microwave ovenEmersonMW9107WC?
>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>> getting a new one.
>> Thanks for reading,
>> Yimin
>>
>> _____________________________
>>
>> How do you know theMagnetronis faulty, and not another component?
>>
>> Colin
>
> Experience - loud buzzing sound, no power output - likely magnet is
> cracked. /YR

Interesting- never heard of this sort of failure before.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Remote control modulator & demodulator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/132d94f9df784fc3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 12:31 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> <fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:3156a141-2bd9-4bfc-acee-0b0f7d3b6dd6@e1g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
>> Hi Good Pals,
>> I'm designing an infrared remote controlled circuit with at least
>> 6 functions. I need ICs that can transmit(thru LED)codes or modulate
>> signals(from the keypad) and a corresponding ic that will decode or
>> demodulate the signalsa to activate the loads. A matching circuit for
>> the IC or circuit of any kind similar to mine will be welcome.
>> Thanks
>
> Any old IC producing RC5 or whatever code will do at your sending end. I
> would think that the easiest thing to do would be to break down an old
> remote control handset, and cull all the necessary parts to make your custom
> sender. I'm not sure if there are any dedicated decoder ICs still available
> these days though. As far as I know, just about every piece of equipment
> that uses remote control, carries out the decoding as a background task of
> the system control processor. It would, however, be a trivial job to program
> a PIC to do the job, and I am sure that ready written code modules for just
> about any commonly used data format, would be readily available for free
> download on the 'net.
>
> Arfa
>
>

Radio Shack (yeah, this was long ago) used to sell matched modules for
this, but I don't have any and am not sure what was inside the modules. It
must have been something pretty cheap and off the shelf though.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kyocera receiver not remembering stations
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5233ef8abceafec7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 12:35 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

In sci.electronics.repair William R. Walsh <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi!
>
>> Does anyone know enough about this unit to tell me what the likely
>> culprit is here? Any links to schematics?
>
> Well, I'd wonder if there is a battery compartment on the unit
> anywhere. Not trying to be disrespectful or anything, just saying that
> a lot of older equipment used conventional batteries (AA/AAA cells) to
> keep the memory running.
>
> I have a Pioneer SX-5 stereo receiver that uses two AA batteries.
> Lifetime seems to be around a year or so.
>
> William

hillarious. I was just about to mention that stereo when AA batteries were
mentioned.

do you know what the weird "AM stereo" RCA jack on the back is for?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 3 2010 12:37 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

William R. Walsh <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi!
>
>> A "super cap" may not last long in 1985 circuitry.
>
> Dunno. I've got a Fisher tuner based on a Toshiba chipset (a 4-bit
> microcontroller with integrated memory and a separate display driver)
> that uses a supercap to keep the memory running.

Does is seem pretty common for those older supercaps to leak what looks
like machine oil?

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