sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: (only $32,Paypal)for hot sell puma shoes,best quality--prompt delivery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2b30923767ce5af4?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 12:53 am
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TOPIC: Cine Star Bipasa Bed Room Videos In All Angles.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a12eba70e61e2c0a?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 5:20 am
From: Bipasa

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pioneer CDJ-1000 Mk3 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bd724168793aed39?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 5:47 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Anyone know if this pro DJ unit has a mode whereby the button
function-sensitive backlighting can be turned off ? I've not seen a Mk3
before, and don't have the manual for it. The one that I've just fixed was
in for a mechanical problem on the deck, which was straightforward enough.
All of the buttons work and do as they should, but none light up when
pressed. The "Vinyl - CDJ" indicators don't light either, although the
central jog display correctly shows "Vinyl" or nothing, when the button is
operated. There's so many different LEDs involved here, that it seems
unlikely that there is any 'fault' as such, and the job ticket doesn't
mention any such problem, so I'm wondering if a soft switch-off function has
been put in, to stop the console looking too 'busy' in the dark, if some DJs
prefer it that way. Or possibly I suppose, if all the LEDs are taken up to
some common supply rail that's just for them, there might be some little
wire ended or sm fuse, as Pioneer are so fond of using in '1000s ?? Anyone
know ?

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 6:46 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:47:00 +0100, Arfa Daily ǝʇoɹʍ:

> Anyone know if this pro DJ unit has a mode whereby the button
> function-sensitive backlighting can be turned off ? I've not seen a Mk3
> before, and don't have the manual for it. The one that I've just fixed
> was in for a mechanical problem on the deck, which was straightforward
> enough. All of the buttons work and do as they should, but none light up
> when pressed. The "Vinyl - CDJ" indicators don't light either, although
> the central jog display correctly shows "Vinyl" or nothing, when the
> button is operated. There's so many different LEDs involved here, that
> it seems unlikely that there is any 'fault' as such, and the job ticket
> doesn't mention any such problem, so I'm wondering if a soft switch-off
> function has been put in, to stop the console looking too 'busy' in the
> dark, if some DJs prefer it that way. Or possibly I suppose, if all the
> LEDs are taken up to some common supply rail that's just for them, there
> might be some little wire ended or sm fuse, as Pioneer are so fond of
> using in '1000s ?? Anyone know ?

With all the lights and commotion in a club where you would find pro dj
equip I would think that some console lights would hardly be a
distraction warranting dimming.

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TOPIC: TSA shaving cross-posting MORON
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/680b452b6da0d742?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 6:26 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 04:48:56 +0000, Elmo ǝʇoɹʍ:

> What are the shiny CDROM-sized platters in an old desktop disk drive
> made out of?

The same shit your brain is made out of. Don't cross post this crap all
over the place.

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 7:47 am
From: info_at_1-script_dot_com@foo.com (DA)

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/TSA-shaving-mirror-out-of-a-hard-disk-drive-what-are-those-448822-.htm
DA wrote:

Elmo wrote:

> What are the shiny CDROM-sized platters in an old desktop disk drive
> made
> out of?

> I glued two of them together so that the offset covered the center hole
> to
> use as an indestructable traveling shaving mirror.

> A friend said they won't pass TSA security but they're not sharp. They
> are
> just really shiny and really flat.

> What are they made out of anyway?

A bit of a strange choice of material for *traveling* shaving mirror (and
shape, too: how do you hold it while shaving?) - there are plastic mirrors
that are brighter and lighter. You'd think weight would be an important
parameter for a traveler...

But I think TSA should definitely have an issue with you bringing it into
the cabin (why do you need a shaving mirror there anyways? Half the wall
space in a lavatory not enough?) . If it's a ceramic platter, it should be
able to shutter into very sharp shards useful for well, I don't know,
slashing someone's throat to hijack a plane?

Leave it at home.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
():::() OWL
VV-VV

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 8:48 am
From: N8N

On Jun 22, 2:12 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 04:48:56 +0000 (UTC), Elmo
>
> <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote:
> >What are the shiny CDROM-sized platters in an old desktop disk drive made
> >out of?
>
> >I glued two of them together so that the offset covered the center hole to
> >use as an indestructable traveling shaving mirror.
>
> >A friend said they won't pass TSA security but they're not sharp. They are
> >just really shiny and really flat.
>
> >What are they made out of anyway?
>
> I've taken them apart but I didnt' try bending them. If you really
> think the tsa will complain, bring another one you can bend for them.
> Maybe that will help, if they really do complain. Or bend the double
> one you're bringing and use the bent part as a stand.
>
> On Leno tonight, Headlines. someone was photographing a pedestrian,
> but he turned his head away and put a file folder between his head and
> the camera. Unfortunately the glass window behind him gave a perfect
> reflection. Something he might not have known from his vantage
> point!

Any HDD I've taken apart I'd be concerned about from a safety
standpoint... the platters don't "bend" at all, and if you try too
forcefully they will explode into a whole mess of tiny, sharp shards.
Good if you're trying to destroy one that you're decommissioning; not
so good if you've packed it with your underwear.

nate

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 8:55 am
From: mm

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:48:40 -0700 (PDT), N8N <njnagel@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>On Jun 22, 2:12�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 04:48:56 +0000 (UTC), Elmo
>>
>> <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote:
>> >What are the shiny CDROM-sized platters in an old desktop disk drive made
>> >out of?
>>
>> >I glued two of them together so that the offset covered the center hole to
>> >use as an indestructable traveling shaving mirror.
>>
>> >A friend said they won't pass TSA security but they're not sharp. They are
>> >just really shiny and really flat.
>>
>> >What are they made out of anyway?
>>
>> I've taken them apart but I didnt' try bending them. �If you really
>> think the tsa will complain, bring another one you can bend for them.
>> Maybe that will help, if they really do complain. �Or bend the double
>> one you're bringing and use the bent part as a stand.
>>
>> On Leno tonight, Headlines. someone was photographing a pedestrian,
>> but he turned his head away and put a file folder between his head and
>> the camera. �Unfortunately the glass window behind him gave a perfect
>> reflection. � Something he might not have known from his vantage
>> point!
>
>Any HDD I've taken apart I'd be concerned about from a safety
>standpoint... the platters don't "bend" at all, and if you try too
>forcefully they will explode into a whole mess of tiny, sharp shards.

I retract my suggestion.

Did they teach you the word potsherd in high school, or did you read
the word in museums, regarding broken things found at excavations of
ancient man?

For decades my brother and I both pronounced the word pots herd,
until one day I looked at it and realized it was pot sherd.

>Good if you're trying to destroy one that you're decommissioning; not
>so good if you've packed it with your underwear.
>
>nate

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 2:09 pm
From: Elmo

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:47:23 +0000, DA wrote:
> A bit of a strange choice of material for *traveling* shaving mirror

We must be talking about different things because these two CDROM-sized
mirrors are extremely light - you can barley feel them in your hands. No
mirror I've ever seen in my life is this light. Or as indestructible.

As for traveling, the two platters glued together are really shiny and
extremely light and they don't break when I drop them and they're exactly
the right oblong size (when glued together offset) for a face ... so it's a
PERFECT traveling shaving mirror IMHO.

I've had glass mirrors (which obviously shatter); I've had plastic mirrors
(which scratch too easily and aren't all that reflective; and I've had even
used nicely handled old round concave (or are they convex?)
Japanese-motorcycle mirrors (which eventually broke due to the glass).

Most store-bought mirrors have more "frame" in them than mirror, whereas
these mirrors are 100% mirror without any frame or handle to have to carry.
Many store-bought mirrors come apart after repeated use in the shower (I
always shave in the shower).

So far, I can't think of a more perfect traveling shower-shaving mirror ...
as long as the TSA will let it through.

Based on the responsese so far, I'm guessing, since the material is non
magnetic, and it's certainly not glass, that it must be extremely highly
polished aluminum.

What are these polished aluminum platters used for anyway (in the HDD)?

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 2:30 pm
From: "Rod Speed"

Elmo wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:47:23 +0000, DA wrote:
>> A bit of a strange choice of material for *traveling* shaving mirror
>
> We must be talking about different things because these two
> CDROM-sized mirrors are extremely light - you can barley feel them in
> your hands. No mirror I've ever seen in my life is this light. Or as
> indestructible.
>
> As for traveling, the two platters glued together are really shiny and
> extremely light and they don't break when I drop them and they're
> exactly the right oblong size (when glued together offset) for a face
> ... so it's a PERFECT traveling shaving mirror IMHO.
>
> I've had glass mirrors (which obviously shatter); I've had plastic
> mirrors (which scratch too easily and aren't all that reflective; and
> I've had even used nicely handled old round concave (or are they
> convex?) Japanese-motorcycle mirrors (which eventually broke due to
> the glass).
>
> Most store-bought mirrors have more "frame" in them than mirror,
> whereas these mirrors are 100% mirror without any frame or handle to
> have to carry. Many store-bought mirrors come apart after repeated
> use in the shower (I always shave in the shower).
>
> So far, I can't think of a more perfect traveling shower-shaving
> mirror ... as long as the TSA will let it through.
>
> Based on the responsese so far, I'm guessing, since the material is
> non magnetic, and it's certainly not glass, that it must be extremely
> highly polished aluminum.
>
> What are these polished aluminum platters used for anyway (in the HDD)?

They have a very thin oxide coating on them for the magnetic surface.

They are so highly polished because they need to be very smooth since
the heads fly so close to the surface so the magnetic domains are as
small as possible so the bit density is as high as possible.

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 2:51 pm
From: Elmo

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 07:30:51 +1000, Rod Speed wrote:

> They are so highly polished because they need to be very smooth since
> the heads fly so close to the surface so the magnetic domains are as
> small as possible so the bit density is as high as possible.

I thought they were reflective mirrors for the lasers or something.

I didn't realize these were the actual magnetic material. They are soooo
smooth and shiny. I expected concentric circular lines of something or
other like the bottom of a CDROM or DVD once it has been burned.

These platters are so polished that you can't make out a single bit of
"thin oxide" coating. Shinier than any metal or plastic mirror I've ever
seen and more indestructible than glass.

In short, they're the perfect wet-shower traveling mirror if TSA will allow
them through.

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 3:40 pm
From: "Rod Speed"

Elmo wrote:
> Rod Speed wrote

>> They are so highly polished because they need to be very smooth
>> since the heads fly so close to the surface so the magnetic domains
>> are as small as possible so the bit density is as high as possible.

> I thought they were reflective mirrors for the lasers or something.

Nope, there are no lasers inside those hard drives.

Nope, there are no visible lines unless the drive has had a head crash.

> These platters are so polished that you can't make out a single bit of
> "thin oxide" coating. Shinier than any metal or plastic mirror I've ever seen

Yes, thats the result of that very perfect surface.

> and more indestructible than glass.

Some were in fact made of glass.

> In short, they're the perfect wet-shower traveling mirror if TSA will allow them through.

I wouldnt like to predict what some trained ape will make of them.

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 3:37 pm
From: Coffee's For Closers

In article <hvr8q8$lf$1@tioat.net>, dcdraftworks@Use-Author-
Supplied-Address.invalid says...

> What are these polished aluminum platters used for
> anyway (in the HDD)?

That's where the data is stored. In little magnetic spots.

--
Get Credit Where Credit Is Due
http://www.cardreport.com/
Credit Tools, Reference, and Forum

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 4:18 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <hvrb8a$1i5$1@tioat.net>,
Elmo <dcdraftworks@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote:

>I didn't realize these were the actual magnetic material. They are soooo
>smooth and shiny. I expected concentric circular lines of something or
>other like the bottom of a CDROM or DVD once it has been burned.
>
>These platters are so polished that you can't make out a single bit of
>"thin oxide" coating. Shinier than any metal or plastic mirror I've ever
>seen and more indestructible than glass.

Older drives did use an oxide (like "ferric" magnetic tape cassettes).

Newer drives, such as the one which donated its platters for your
mirror, have a more complex magnetic recording layer. It's a complex
coating of alloys, vacuum-deposited on the polished aluminum (or glass
or ceramic) surface using a process known as sputtering. The
resulting magnetic layer has an extremely fine "grain" structure,
which allows for small magnetic domains and thus lots of storage per
area.

You won't be able to see the lines which make up the individual data
tracks... they aren't physically carved or burned into the magnetic
coating, and consist only of varying patterns of magnetism.

Yes, the surface is very smooth and shiny. It needs to be - the disk
drive heads "fly" over the surface, at a height far less than the
diameter of a human hair. Even a particle of cigarette smoke is too
big to fit between the "flying head" and the surface.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KV-2784R horiz problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf85a32f811047d5?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 7:29 am
From: Chuck

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 09:18:15 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:

>If anybody is still listening - THANKS for all your help
>
>I finally got the flyback and put everything back and it works
>perfectly.
>
>No there parts needed, 'cept the fuse.
>
>
>
>On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:21:00 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:
>
>>Sony KV-2784R died - horiz collapse - fuse F501 blown - pressing power
>>button causes TV to try to start then stops - very soft high freq buzz
>>is heard. Remote control will not start it. HOT and all diodes in area
>>test OK with ohmmeter. Fuse is somewhat blackened at end where it
>>seperated, so it wasn't a slight overload. I do not have schematics.
>>Is there any history of common component failures here.Just for ref, I
>>am very technical and had a repair shop in the 80's - this was built
>>11/86 - just after I closed the shop. So speak to me at that level,
>>thx.

You are welcome. Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Google Adsense Account Approval With In 4 Hours
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c22f1c2c1e2558e6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 7:41 am
From: tangama

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Schematics & standards
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c62344a753d9d652?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 8:51 am
From: Cydrome Leader

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>
> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
> news:hvo9oo$qsj$5@reader1.panix.com...
>> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>> On 6/20/2010 7:09 PM sparky spake thus:
>>>
>>>> On Jun 18, 4:18 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>> >
>>>>> Someone else made a comment in another thread here about weird
>>>>> schematics (like for home appliances).
>>>>>
>>>>> Wanted to get a small discussion going on that topic. My take: there
>>>>> are
>>>>> good and bad standards for schematics. Personally, I can't stand the
>>>>> ones that use rectangle shapes for resistors, instead of the
>>>>> traditional
>>>>> zigzag that [insert name of deity here] intended to be used. (And even
>>>>> here there are lots of variations, like old-fashioned schematics that
>>>>> took this symbol rather literally and sometimes had ten or twelve zigs
>>>>> and zags, as if an actual resistor was being constructed on paper).
>>>>>
>>>>> Likewise the wire-connecting/jumping convention: here I much prefer the
>>>>> modern approach, which is to use a dot for a connection and no dot for
>>>>> no connection, rather than the clumsy "loop" to indicate one wire
>>>>> jumping over another with no connection.
>>>>
>>>> The jumping over loop is much easier to read on a messed up copy than
>>>> trying to determine if it is a dot or just a smudge.
>>>> Using 5K6 for markings also makes it earier to read.
>>>
>>> Well, then let me ask you the same question I'm asking others here: if
>>> that's so, then why don't we use that system (8K2, etc.) for other
>>> values like voltages, currents, etc? Aren't they also likely to be hard
>>> to read on a "messed-up copy"? Why not be consistent?
>>
>> the short answer is they don't know, and like being slaves to stupid
>> committees.
>
> Clearly, you can't read, which is why you probably can't understand a simple
> system. Twat.
>
> Arfa

that's right, I can't read. I can't see periods and get really confused.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surge Protectors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9a42e9c9a84828d9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 8:56 am
From: bud--

westom wrote:
> On Jun 21, 1:40 pm, bud-- <remove.budn...@isp.com> wrote:
>> westom just continues to repeat the same lies - a la Goebbels.
>
> An honest bud would simply post numeric specs to prove what he
> claims.

An honest westom would admit that specs have been provided often in
other threads, and through a link in this thread. And also by other
people. Always ignored.

An honest westom would admit that both the IEEE and NIST surge guides
say plug-in suppressors are effective.

An honest westom would not try to make sources say the opposite of what
they actually say.

An honest westom would admit he can't find another lunatic that agrees
that plug-in suppressors are NOT effective.

An honest westom could answer simple questions:
- Why do the only 2 examples of protection in the IEEE guide use plug-in
suppressors?
- Why does the NIST guide says plug-in suppressors are "the easiest
solution"?
- Why does the NIST guide say "One effective solution is to have the
consumer install" a multiport plug-in suppressor?
- How would a service panel suppressor provide any protection in the
IEEE example, page 42?
- Why does the IEEE guide say for distant service points "the only
effective way of protecting the equipment is to use a multiport
[plug-in] protector"?
- Why did Martzloff say in his paper "One solution. illustrated in this
paper, is the insertion of a properly designed [multiport plug-in surge
suppressor]"?
- Why does Dr. Mansoor support multiport plug-in suppressors?
- Why aren't airplanes crashing daily when they get hit by lightning (or
do they drag an earthing chain)?
- Why does "responsible" manufacturer SquareD says "electronic
equipment may need additional protection by installing plug-in
[suppressors] at the point of use"?
- Why don�t favored SquareD service panel suppressors list "each type of
surge"?

Why don't you ever answer questions westom???

--
bud--

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Voice Chip, any ideas?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/151a30ed8bfdafea?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 1:09 pm
From: ibarrola

Hi,

I'm looking for a voice chip that can save 5-10 audio files(10-15s
long) and can play them one after the other by sending 5V to the input
(one audio with every pulse).

I bought a chip from Windbond (ISD17120SYI), which is a multi-message,
single-chip voice record and playback (although I don't need
recording). But this one has been discontinued. Apart from that this
one had a lot of extra features that I will not be using...

Does anyone know a manufacturer that has one of these?

Thanks!!!

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 2:28 pm
From: news@jecarter.us

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:09:07 -0700 (PDT), ibarrola
<fernandoibarrola@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I'm looking for a voice chip that can save 5-10 audio files(10-15s
>long) and can play them one after the other by sending 5V to the input
>(one audio with every pulse).
>
>I bought a chip from Windbond (ISD17120SYI), which is a multi-message,
>single-chip voice record and playback (although I don't need
>recording). But this one has been discontinued. Apart from that this
>one had a lot of extra features that I will not be using...
>
>Does anyone know a manufacturer that has one of these?
>
>Thanks!!!

Don't know of sources for that chip, but this might be an alternative.

The Somo 14D stores voice (or other sound) on a micro-SD card, so you
have nearly unlimited storage (number and duration of sounds). The
Somo 14D runs in two modes - mucroprocessor control or key. In key
mode, the controls are On, Off, Next, where a low on Next plays the
next file.

http://www.4dsystems.com.au/prod.php?id=73

I have one waiting for me on the bench now - just haven't been able to
get to it (waiting while hand surgery heals gets old fast).

Sparkfun in the US usually carries the chip but are out of stock
today:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9534

John

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 2:53 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

ibarrola <fernandoibarrola@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for a voice chip that can save 5-10 audio files(10-15s
> long) and can play them one after the other by sending 5V to the input
> (one audio with every pulse).
>
> I bought a chip from Windbond (ISD17120SYI), which is a multi-message,
> single-chip voice record and playback (although I don't need
> recording). But this one has been discontinued. Apart from that this
> one had a lot of extra features that I will not be using...
>
> Does anyone know a manufacturer that has one of these?
>
> Thanks!!!

OKI Semiconductor makes a bunch of sound chips that probably cover what
you want to do.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sound Technology ST-1700B distortion analyzer measurement pegs meter on
low range.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c424590bd89f618b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 1:16 pm
From: "David Farber"

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> David Farber wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>> David Farber wrote:
>>>>
>>>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:T-ednVZAeKq1RIHRnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>>>
>>>>> David Farber wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One of my ~30 year old Sound Technology distortion/power
>>>>>> analyzers has a problem. It's been sitting around for a number
>>>>>> of years because I had a spare. The symptom is that when you are
>>>>>> measuring distortion and move the rotary selector switch one
>>>>>> step from the 1% range to the .3% range, the meter goes from a
>>>>>> near zero reading to full deflection and then some. If I feed
>>>>>> the signal output to my other analyzer, the distortion is very
>>>>>> low so I know the oscillator is ok.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here is a copy of the schematic:
>>>>>> http://members.dslextreme.com/users/farberbear/Repair/st-1700b/st-1700b.html
>>>>>>
>>>>>> At the output of U202, pin 6, the signal goes from zero (meter is
>>>>>> working properly) to a nice sine wave (meter pegs) when the
>>>>>> switch is rotated.to the .3% range and below. The signal is too
>>>>>> low to measure at the input of U202 no matter where the switch
>>>>>> is. There is a very detailed circuit description in the owner's
>>>>>> manual. However I have a general sense that there's an open
>>>>>> circuit somewhere causing the gain to go full blast. I cleaned
>>>>>> the switches but it wasn't of any help. Anyone have any clever
>>>>>> ideas as to how to pinpoint the trouble?
>>>>>
>>>>> Troubleshoot it. Is the switch part of an attenuator, or does
>>>>> it switch in more gain for the last range? Look to see if the op
>>>>> amp is oscillating. Look for bad electrolytics on the supply
>>>>> rails. It isn't rocket science. A distortion analyzer is a
>>>>> tunable notch filter and attenuator, followed by an AC voltmeter.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The first thing I did was to check all the caps. They're ok.
>>>>
>>>> You can see from the schematic that the switch is part of the
>>>> attenuator and that U202 is before the attenuator switch. So my
>>>> question is why does U202 suddenly have a wild signal swing when
>>>> switched to the next lower step?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for your reply.
>>>
>>>
>>> You have a lot of DC coupled stages, and some are not very good op
>>> amps. A dc offset can make a string like that unstable. Did you
>>> look at pin 6 of U202 with a low capacitance scope probe? How does
>>> the DC voltage there compare to the working unit?
>>>
>>> Are the op amps marked 2605 Harris HA2605? If so, they have been
>>> out of production for some time. Metal cased op amps, (and other
>>> metal cased ICs) started disapearing 10 years ago.
>>>
>>> You might luck out and fix it with a couple .1 caps to ground of
>>> the supply pins of U202 if it's oscillating. Another thing to
>>> check is all the mounting screws for the PC board and any shields.
>>> Loosen the screws and tighten them up to remove any oxide.
>>> Generally op amps oscillate from defective bypass caps, or signals
>>> being coupled from another circuit. Also, did you test the
>>> resistance for the contacts in that mode after you cleaned the
>>> switches? An open or high resistance contact cn upset the circuit.
>>>
>>> One question. Is the sine wave close to the frequency the filter
>>> is tuned to?
>>
>> Hi Michael,
>>
>> The oscillating is at the same frequency of the signal output (1kHz)
>> so I assume that is not a parasitic oscillation. I make a mistake in
>> identifying the correct IC, I should have said U203 is where the
>> wild voltage swing takes place.
>>
>> Here are some readings I made with my low capacity 10:1 probe:
>>
>> U202, pin 6 output, selector set to 1% range, 4.8 Vp-p.
>> U203, pin 6 output, selector set to 1% range, 0.0 Vp-p.
>>
>> U202, pin 6 output, selector set to .3% range, 3.8 Vp-p.
>> U203, pin 6 output, selector set to .3% range, 2.8 Vp-p.
>>
>> I was about to end my message at this point when I went back and
>> re-read your message to make sure I didn't leave anything out. I
>> noticed the part where you mentioned comparing the good analyzer to
>> the bad one. So I disassembled the good one and checked the dc
>> voltages first. They were ok as were the dc voltages on the bad one.
>> On the AC side, of course the voltages were zero at the output of
>> U203 on the good one. Here comes the fun part. While probing around
>> the bad one again, I could hear the meter pegging as I was touching
>> different pins trying to hold my hand steady. All of a sudden, the
>> signal was gone and the meter stopped pegging. It seems to be
>> working correctly now. BUT if I move the frequency select switches
>> from X100 on the top row, X10 on the next row to X10 on the top row,
>> X100 on the next row (still maintaining a 1kHz signal), the
>> distortion is much higher, over 3%. If I gently tap the X100 switch
>> on row 2, the meter jumps around like a bad tape monitor switch but
>> never drops below 3%. There is a yellow sticker on the shield that
>> covers the frequency selector switches that says, "WARNING DO NOT
>> SPRAY SWITCHES. PUSHBUTTON SWITCHES ARE PERMANENTLY LUBRICATED."
>> etc. etc. Perhaps the switches are causing all of these symptoms?
>
>
> Pushbutton switches are a pain in the ass. From the age of the
> equipment I would guess that they were made by ALPS? I have had a lot
> of bad interlocking pushbutton switches over the years. The silver
> plating is low grade, and I've even seen it flake off. The contact
> lube used in some switches is a low grade grease that washes away with
> contact cleaner, exposing the contacts to contaminants. Mouser
> carried some push button switches the last time I looked. I always
> used some GC Tunerlube to replace the lube in pushbutton switches
> when I had to clean them. Check out the http://www.mouser.com site
> to see if you can find new switches, or turn the unit of and press
> the buttons 50 to 100 times each to wear away any oxide, then
> relubricate the switches.
>
> If you can't find what you need, post some pictures of the switches
> and I'll see if I have any in my collection.
>
>
> Switchcraft made my favorites, but they are quite expensive.

Hi Michael,

Since I now can get good readings on the 100 x 10 range, I am not going to
worry about the 10 x 100 range. The switches are buried under some pc
boards. Not worth the trouble to fix.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
David Farber's Service Center
L.A., CA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vertical Lines
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7824ada624c770ad?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 4:47 pm
From: "DB"

Have a Toshiba 30HF85 30" TV. There are vertical lines at the top of the
screen. I believe I need to replace the cap near the vertical hold IC.
Where is the vertical hold IC? Thanks.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 4:49 pm
From: "DB"

"DB" <x@x.com> wrote in message
news:deadnRItKurh1rzRnZ2dnUVZ_rCdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> Have a Toshiba 30HF85 30" TV. There are vertical lines at the top of the
> screen. I believe I need to replace the cap near the vertical hold IC.
> Where is the vertical hold IC? Thanks.
>
Additional: What's the shape and how many pins? Thanks.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 22 2010 5:08 pm
From: "DB"

Mistake!! I have horizontal lines near top of screen!! Sorry.

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