sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* audio attenuator headphone to line - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b3898a02f147d683?hl=en
* cheap wholesale Rolex watch - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc84635403afd558?hl=en
* Cheap wholesale VERSACE goggle (paypal payment - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b17b88965622e44?hl=en
* Valve/tube, A/R fault - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/51967f830b2ca3c2?hl=en
* Pushon v screw f-connxr - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7d8ca0654f0f29fa?hl=en
* 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
* PowerWare 9110 UPS schematic?? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b7a20f044b334c4?hl=en
* Where to get schematic of Funai TV, Model FT1371? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75b6f935b5d3675?hl=en
* Backiline 600 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/21fce449cd438f07?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: audio attenuator headphone to line
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b3898a02f147d683?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 4:22 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"tg" <nospam@nospameverever.net> wrote in message
news:4c3f61e5$0$12168$fa0fcedb@news.zen.co.uk...
>
>
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:79t%n.190989$vB5.75730@hurricane...
>
>> I'm glad what I said helped you to get a result that you were pleased
>> with, but I'm a little confused. Are you sure that the resistor values
>> that you've stated are correct, and the bottom one wasn't 4.7k rather
>> than
>> 47k ? <snip>
>
> nope, just checked and the bottom resistor is 47K.
> in your previous post you did say 'a ratio of 2 : 1 might be more
> appropriate,' and you were right, this - as it turned out - is a 2:1
> ratio.

Not quite. As stated that your series resistor is the lower value of 22k,
and the shunt one is the higher value of 47k, this is a 1 : 2 ratio ...

Still, if it does the job that you were looking for, not worth getting
bogged down in maths and definitions :-)

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: cheap wholesale Rolex watch
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc84635403afd558?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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TOPIC: Cheap wholesale VERSACE goggle (paypal payment
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b17b88965622e44?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Valve/tube, A/R fault
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/51967f830b2ca3c2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 8:24 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Jul 15, 10:50 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 11:20:03 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
> > Well that is what Avo calls it, I've never come across one before. ECC83
> > with curious cyclic swirling breaking-surf  whitish-noise and clicks.
> > Putting on Avo 160 tester showed <>short in A/R setting, I've never had
> > before,  A/R here stands for cold checking Anodes To Remaining
> > electrodes. DVM cold resistance checking pin to pin showed about 9K
> > between an anode and its grid. I will replace it but is there any point
> > in blasting with some high voltage to vaporize whatever is bridging, for
> > a known unreliable/short-term spare. I'm aware that a valve with leaky C
> > to H, then running the valve with 10 or 12V on the heaters insted of
> > 6.3V so they glow like bulbs for a few seconds, will knock back the
> > bridging deposit for a few months or even years.
>
> Used to do that with a TV CRT rejuvenator. It had a specific function to
> remove shorts. Sometimes worked, sometimes didn't.
>
> --
> Altopia.com $12/m 10 unlimited connections

Same here. I still have it and use it about once every couple of
years, now on monitors rather than tv crt's.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 16 2010 12:17 am
From: "N_Cook"

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:cbf6f387-58cb-47b1-b2c8-2f56b81e7a42@j8g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 15, 10:50 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 11:20:03 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
> > Well that is what Avo calls it, I've never come across one before. ECC83
> > with curious cyclic swirling breaking-surf whitish-noise and clicks.
> > Putting on Avo 160 tester showed <>short in A/R setting, I've never had
> > before, A/R here stands for cold checking Anodes To Remaining
> > electrodes. DVM cold resistance checking pin to pin showed about 9K
> > between an anode and its grid. I will replace it but is there any point
> > in blasting with some high voltage to vaporize whatever is bridging, for
> > a known unreliable/short-term spare. I'm aware that a valve with leaky C
> > to H, then running the valve with 10 or 12V on the heaters insted of
> > 6.3V so they glow like bulbs for a few seconds, will knock back the
> > bridging deposit for a few months or even years.
>
> Used to do that with a TV CRT rejuvenator. It had a specific function to
> remove shorts. Sometimes worked, sometimes didn't.
>
> --
> Altopia.com $12/m 10 unlimited connections

Same here. I still have it and use it about once every couple of
years, now on monitors rather than tv crt's.

&&&&&&&

Any idea what is causing this A/G resistance? Nothing to loose, I will blast
it with some volts. But preliminaries I've seriously banged the envelope and
heated it with hot air and the resistance has hardly moved from 8.7K ohm.
C/H leakage I've never seen below about 100K IIRC and was highly variable on
knocking the envelope.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pushon v screw f-connxr
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7d8ca0654f0f29fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 8:39 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com

Push on f-connectors are notoriously loose-fitting..
any tips on making them less so as the wire in question is
hard wired inside the chassis..

ironic that the better antenna only works better if I hold it in place
because of the silly connector

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 9:14 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1nhau$vj6$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> >> The only reason 60/40 was ever manufactured in the first place is
> >> that tin is more expensive than lead, so 63/37 solder costs more.
>
> > Cite, please? (and I don't mean a link to commodity prices)
>
> I can only cite "common sense". 63/37 has always been more-expensive than
> 60/40.

Then you can't substantiate your contention that 60/40 was THE worldwide
standard for tens of years just because it was a few pennies cheaper per
pound? That is the statement of yours with which I take issue.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 11:53 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>>> The only reason 60/40 was ever manufactured in the first place is
>>>> that tin is more expensive than lead, so 63/37 solder costs more.

>>> Cite, please? (and I don't mean a link to commodity prices)

>> I can only cite "common sense". 63/37 has always been
>> more-expensive than 60/40.

> Then you can't substantiate your contention that 60/40 was THE
> worldwide standard for tens of years just because it was a few pennies
> cheaper per pound? That is the statement of yours with which I take issue.

I have no objection to your objection.

However, 60/40 was never, ever, "a few pennies per pound" cheaper than
63/37. For the last 30 years, the price of eutectic solder has been
sufficiently higher to make one think twice before buying it. The last time
I purchased solder, I decided that a one-pound roll of Kester 44 would last
the rest of my life, and I splurged. (At this point in my life, my
prediction is coming true. I rarely solder any more. If I drop dead, someone
digging through the junk will find a pleasant surprise. Assuming they know
what 63/37 is.)

I just checked Parts Express, and a 1# roll of Kester 44 60/40 is $22.23.
63/37 is $26.85. That's a $4.62 difference, almost 21% more -- hardly
"pennies per pound". When I bought the same product some years back, my
memory is that the price was around $7.50 for the 60/40, $9 for the 63/37.
Even that wasn't "pennies per pound".

I looked at the MCM site for Ersin products. Get this... MCM describes its
house brand of 60/40 solder as "provid[ing] the lowest possible melting
point".

Businesses almost always try to cut every corner they can. If you think your
solderers -- or soldering machines -- are doing a good job, you might prefer
to buy the less-expensive 60/40.

When I worked at Bendix Field Engineering, I often walked through the
section where a bunch of women (never men) soldered assemblies, following
NASA standards. I never thought to ask whether they used 60/40 or 63/37.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 16 2010 1:04 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <KJydndUeloVE2KLRRVn_vwA@giganews.com>,
Robbie Hatley <see.my.sig@for.my.contact.info> wrote:
> Rosin flux can be removed with 99pct isopropyl alcohol ($1 a bottle at
> your corner drug store). But frankly, I recommend NOT removing the
> rosin flux scum. Leave it on; it's inert, airproof, waterproof,
> sweatproof, so it protects the joint.

Strange to see this in print, as everyone seems to spend ages removing
flux. I don't and have never had a problem.

--
*The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PowerWare 9110 UPS schematic??
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b7a20f044b334c4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 9:43 pm
From: "Jack"

No, I do not have manual for it and I have not been able to find one with
Google.
I sent e-mail to Eaton's technical support without success. Eaton's pages or
search do not have any info on the 9110 -series UPS.

-Jan

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:881v36tv1vd73ah2eu3sshbj2guc7162cu@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:35:13 +0300, "Jack"
> <jankroPOISTA@dnainternet.net> wrote:
>
>>I have this UPS that had dead batteries, so I put in fresh new one's all
>>charged up.
>>I plugged it in and red ALARM led lights up, the fan turns on and
>>batteries
>>are being charged up, but it will not turn on, nothing comes out of the
>>outlets.
>>All fuses are OK, nothing appears to be burned.
>>
>>Anyone got any idea of what to do next or anyone have schematic?
>>
>>-Jan
>>Finland
>>
>>
>>
>>--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
>
> Do you have a manual for this unit? My PowerWare UPS has a specific
> startup sequence that must be followed to power it up. Otherwise it
> just charges the batteries and waits.
>
> Also check Eaton's customer support pages. They (Eaton) provide
> excellent support, though you may have to register the unit to get
> specific answers to your questions.
>
> Also, do you have a computer connected to it (if it supports a
> computer interface)? is that giving any info?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to get schematic of Funai TV, Model FT1371?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75b6f935b5d3675?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 11:31 pm
From: Mike WB2MEP

On Jun 29, 3:30 pm, Robert Macy <m...@california.com> wrote:
> Anybody got one lying around?
>
> Or at least covering the PCB on the back of the CRT neck?

Sams Photofact #3983.

www.samswebsite.com

Mike WB2MEP

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Backiline 600
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/21fce449cd438f07?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 16 2010 1:08 am
From: "N_Cook"

If the amp is left switched on with no input the quiescent current is enough
to slightly raise the h/s temp to about 30 deg C and fan comes on now
I suspect the problem is drift over time of the Vbe of the drive transistor,
change of 0.01V there leads to change of 1.5V on the fan , so if Vbe drops a
few mV the fan will only come on at 50 or 60 deg C, too late to be safe

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