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Today's topics:
* Old Solder - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1325a43abbae0cc1?hl=en
* Old garage light fixture with no sign of existing switch - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/25109a2423d6f22a?hl=en
* Sanyo CRT-tv. HOT tested bad. Transformer noisy. What next? - 3 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32324e08982f8dea?hl=en
* IR home leak imaging - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1d0ec1678a5ff3d?hl=en
* Doppler Flow Meters - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acbca2fdd53202b6?hl=en
* Epson Perfection Scanner Problem - 1 messages, 1 author
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TOPIC: Old Solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1325a43abbae0cc1?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 1:30 pm
From: Ecnerwal
In article
<none-0307101819110001@dialup-4.231.175.251.dial1.losangeles1.level3.net
>,
none@given.now (Joe) wrote:
> A couple of days ago I did a small repair to an electronic timer. It just
> need a bit of solder to reconnect a wire.
>
> I had a devil of a time with that small repair, the solder just didn't
> want to flow over the wire and onto the pad on the PCB.
...
> Is there a definite life for unused solder?
I've got a roll or two of Multicore that's easily 3 decades old, and
still works fine. Now, when doing repairs, you are often up against a
filthy joint and the crufty remains of the flux last used, plus any dirt
or corrosion it's attracted since it was made - and there just might be
a layer of varnish or the like applied to the thing post-assembly to
additionally complicate life, and none of those will help a bit.
If you can't make it clean mechanically (the preferable option, IMHO),
additional flux might help.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 2:19 pm
From: David Nebenzahl
On 7/4/2010 3:36 AM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
> Joe wrote:
>
>> I have two spools of Radio Shack 63/37 rosin-core solder. One of the
>> spools is almost empty (the one that I had the problem trying to solder
>> with), the other looks at least half full.
>>
>> Both spools have the Radio Shack stock number 64-015, but they have
>> different artwork on their labels, and the old plastic spool is black, the
>> newer plastic spool is white.
>>
>> The older spool quite possibly dates back to around 1980.
>
> Radio Shack solder was low quailty, years ago. I won't buy it. It
> used a low grade flux, and the core was inconsistant. if you didn't see
> smoke when you touched it to the work, then it had no flux. The rosin
> is dry, anyway. It was the old acid core solder that was liquid.
Not *necessarily* true that RS solder was low quality: I have a roll
I've probably had for 20 years, RS # 64-009A, 60/40, .032 dia. (I call
it "angel-hair pasta") standard rosin-core. Works great.
Dunno about their other solders, nor about what they currently sell,
which could well be crap.
Sounds like what the O.P. was using wasn't rosin-core, anyhow. The flux
doesn't disappear since it's solid.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 5:11 pm
From: Archon
On 7/3/2010 9:19 PM, Joe wrote:
> A couple of days ago I did a small repair to an electronic timer. It just
> need a bit of solder to reconnect a wire.
>
> I had a devil of a time with that small repair, the solder just didn't
> want to flow over the wire and onto the pad on the PCB.
>
> A little while later, it occurred to me that maybe the problem was that I
> had used some old solder - about a foot or so are remaining on probably a
> 5 or 10 foot spool.
>
> The big Aha! came when I realized that all during that soldering attempt,
> there was absolutely no odor of rosin flux.
>
> Questions:
>
> Are there any obvious ways to tell if old solder has lost its flux, other
> than trying it out on say, soldering some scrap wire?
>
> What happened to the rosin core of that solder? It doesn't look like the
> end was left open.
>
> Is there a definite life for unused solder?
>
> --- Joe
Don't you know "old solders never die.............etc etc" :-)
JC
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old garage light fixture with no sign of existing switch
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/25109a2423d6f22a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 1:37 pm
From: Gnack Nol
On Sun, 04 Jul 2010 02:35:05 -0500, Jim wrote:
> A general thanks to all who replied. I know this was a long shot for an
> online question.
>
> The main mystery is that the only visible switches control the inside
> garage light (seen in photo) and the light outside the small garage door.
> It is not a detached garage, as someone implied.
>
> If one of those two wall switches (inside the garage) also controls the
> high outside garage light, it wasn't a very practical setup - to have two
> lights on at once, inside and out. Is that a known common configuration
> from the old days?
>
> Taking apart the wires in the box isn't practical at the moment (long
> story) but I'm sure some answer lies therein. I might end up bypassing the
> existing wire entirely and routing a temp. wire from a regular wall plug.
>
> Jim
Here goes, this is a long shot answer Jim but do you by chance happen to
have a switch in what is or was the living room that seems disconnected?
It was fairly common in old wiring to put the switch for the garage in a
cluster with the living room and front porch lighting switches even
occasionally wiring the garage and porch lights to the same switch.
Also something that you may have missed, the oulet may have been fully
powered all of the time and a screw in pull chain switch ( these were
very common ) used to turn the light on and off. Look for an inoperable
fuse or breaker in your fuse box.
Gnack
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sanyo CRT-tv. HOT tested bad. Transformer noisy. What next?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32324e08982f8dea?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 2:26 pm
From: b
On 4 jul, 06:51, Meatman <KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Me, OP: Ok, so I have some work to try to do 8^) Please clarify
> right quick: Is the SMPS suspect at this point? Or can it reasonably
> be eliminated as a likely problem? Just your best experienced guess.
> Thx again. Kevin.
the whole point of the tests described above is to eliminate things,
including the smps. Until you check the secondaries, who knows?
-B
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 5 2010 12:29 am
From: Meatman
OP: Ok, I'm merely learning. I know what you mean secondaries, in
principle. But I have to find them first! Seriously, I'll do some
lookin' around and try to find a schematic and see what I can gleen.
I know this isn't a DIY hand-held 6-week course on CRT repair. I'll
let you know. Any last info, guys? Thx, Kevin.
P.S.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 5 2010 12:35 am
From: Meatman
On Jul 5, 2:29 am, Meatman <KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote:
> OP: Ok, I'm merely learning. I know what you mean secondaries, in
> principle. But I have to find them first! Seriously, I'll do some
> lookin' around and try to find a schematic and see what I can gleen.
> I know this isn't a DIY hand-held 6-week course on CRT repair. I'll
> let you know. Any last info, guys? Thx, Kevin.
>
> P.S.
p.s. R413 - no voltage
==============================================================================
TOPIC: IR home leak imaging
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1d0ec1678a5ff3d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 2:32 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
I knew someone who got some used fancy oilfield devices and imaged
houses to find leaks using not only infrared but some pretty fancy
math to compare how the images changed as the temperature changed
during the day to night cycle. I gotta wonder if this has advanced
much in the decade since.
I have some siding, poynting and roof leaks, whose repair would be a
lot less costly if I could get a cheap imaging analysis.
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 3:18 pm
From: Rich Webb
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 21:32:46 +0000 (UTC),
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>
>I knew someone who got some used fancy oilfield devices and imaged
>houses to find leaks using not only infrared but some pretty fancy
>math to compare how the images changed as the temperature changed
>during the day to night cycle. I gotta wonder if this has advanced
>much in the decade since.
Well, the cost of the imagers has come down. The Extech/FLIR line has
one below $2K now. I keep trying to come up with a good enough excuse to
get one ...
http://www.tequipment.net/ExtechI5.html
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 10:27 pm
From: harry
On Jul 4, 10:32 pm, vjp2...@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I knew someone who got some used fancy oilfield devices and imaged
> houses to find leaks using not only infrared but some pretty fancy
> math to compare how the images changed as the temperature changed
> during the day to night cycle. I gotta wonder if this has advanced
> much in the decade since.
>
> I have some siding, poynting and roof leaks, whose repair would be a
> lot less costly if I could get a cheap imaging analysis.
>
> - = -
> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
> http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
> [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
> [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
I don't see how you expect IR devices to find roof leaks on your
house. IR devices are commonly used to find areas of poor thermal
insulation.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Doppler Flow Meters
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acbca2fdd53202b6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 2:35 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
If you have ever seen the Kill-a-Watt meter to track electric use of
home appliances, you can undertsand why I was hoping for a cheap
doppler meter to track liquid flow noninvasively inside piper using
sound waves. I recently got a ten dollar sonic stud finder, and
suspect the only reason this device can't track flow is software and
not hardware. Are we likely to see home doppler meters any time soon?
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Epson Perfection Scanner Problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3e2ff1db77f9673?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 4 2010 5:31 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
In sci.electronics.repair William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Be aware that once you open the scanner, presuming you can get past the
>> mechanical issues you are having, the pristine clean interior will never
>> be that way again. These things are assembled in a clean room so that
>> there is no dust inside the unit. (Dust = spots and defects in every
>> scan that you make). Working in a home or ordinary repair shop is no
>> substitute for the clean room and you will find it impossible to keep
>> the internal parts of the unit dust and lint free. Remember that the air
>> all around us is full of dust particles and it will get all over the
>> internal scanner parts despite all best efforts to "keep it clean".
>
> You are perhaps overlooking the fact that the "internal" dust will be at
> some distance from the focal plane.
not dust on the ccd
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