sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 12 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MicroGem DTV converter gets pretty hot
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94edd9a03323cd5c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 12:39 pm
From: franksmith@nospammie.com

I just bought a used MicroGem DTV converter at an auction. The price
was right, and it works ok. But I noticed that it gets pretty hot
compared to my other converters (other brands). I also read on
several websites that these converters are known to die in a short
time because of excess heat, and many were sent back to the
manufacturer for replacement. Because of the way I bought it, there
is no warranty. Rather than let it burn out, I would like to add a
heat sink to whatever part(s) gets hot. Does anyone know what part(s)
overheats? (I might also enlarge the tiny holes in the case, or maybe
even install a small fan (like a CPU fan, if there's a proper voltage
source to run a CPU fan).

Thanks

Frank

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:26 pm
From: news@jecarter.us

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 14:39:01 -0500, franksmith@nospammie.com wrote:

>I just bought a used MicroGem DTV converter at an auction. The price
>was right, and it works ok. But I noticed that it gets pretty hot
>compared to my other converters (other brands). I also read on
>several websites that these converters are known to die in a short
>time because of excess heat, and many were sent back to the
>manufacturer for replacement. Because of the way I bought it, there
>is no warranty. Rather than let it burn out, I would like to add a
>heat sink to whatever part(s) gets hot. Does anyone know what part(s)
>overheats? (I might also enlarge the tiny holes in the case, or maybe
>even install a small fan (like a CPU fan, if there's a proper voltage
>source to run a CPU fan).
>
>Thanks
>
>Frank

The original power supply supply may not have the spare capacity to
run even a small fan. You might be better served with a fan powered
by a wall wart of the proper voltage.

John

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:30 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

Out of all of the ideas you suggested, I recommend the fan. It's
likely to do the most good of anything, especially since there are
probably already heatsinks in there.

The two things that will produce the most heat in these are the power
supply and the video decoder/system processor IC. Capacitors in the
power supply may be situated too close to hot-running components or of
poor quality. If that's the case, I'd actually suspect some
combination of those issues. Provided nothing blows up, bad caps could
be replaced with better ones and that might be all you'd have to do.

On the other hand, if the video processing system on chip is getting
too hot and burning out, that's going to be almost impossible to fix.
Some run cooler than others...the LG chips seem to run so cool they
don't even require a heatsink while the ones from Zoran must have a
heatsink and it gets so hot that you can't touch it after just seconds
of operation.

If you have a simple voltmeter and know how to use it, you should be
able to find suitable power supply voltages to use for the fan. Be
extremely careful--parts of the power supply are connected directly to
the power line and will buzz/hurt/kill you. Voltages may also be
marked on separate boards.

If yours has the power supply and television tuning circuitry all on
one board (as some do), you'll have to trace the circuit to find out
where the power supply outputs are at.

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How do I check the output of an amp with a scope?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b586764171b3ca8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:15 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jun 30, 11:38 am, "fynnas...@yahoo.com" <fynnas...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> I have built a mic amp and wanted to check the wave form on a
> scope but when I connect the probes to the o/p of the amp the power
> supply trips (The Mic operates on 9 volt single rail.)

Is one of your scope probes a GROUND connection? Couple to the
microphone amp output through a coupling transformer, see if that
helps.

Which power supply trips, the scope, or the microphone amp? What
are the specifications of that power supply?

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:38 pm
From: "fynnashba@yahoo.com"

On Jun 30, 8:15 pm, whit3rd <whit...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 30, 11:38 am, "fynnas...@yahoo.com" <fynnas...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I have built a mic amp and wanted to check the wave form on a
> > scope but when I connect the probes to the o/p of the amp the power
> > supply trips (The Mic operates on 9 volt single rail.)
>
> Is one of your scope probes a GROUND connection? Couple to the
> microphone amp output through a coupling transformer, see if that
> helps.
>
> Which power supply trips, the scope, or the microphone amp? What
> are the specifications of that power supply?

Thanks
no the ground connection of the scope is connected directly to the
Amp
Its the power supply connected to the amp that trips or reads about 4
volts instead of 9v
The current of the PSU was set to 1 Ampere.
Please, generally, how do you check the responds of an audio Amp on
the scope? I mean how the probes are connected.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 3:39 pm
From: "tm"

<fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3f09618b-db62-4f12-a3de-f130b2b6920b@u26g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 30, 8:15 pm, whit3rd <whit...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jun 30, 11:38 am, "fynnas...@yahoo.com" <fynnas...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I have built a mic amp and wanted to check the wave form on a
> > scope but when I connect the probes to the o/p of the amp the power
> > supply trips (The Mic operates on 9 volt single rail.)
>
> Is one of your scope probes a GROUND connection? Couple to the
> microphone amp output through a coupling transformer, see if that
> helps.
>
> Which power supply trips, the scope, or the microphone amp? What
> are the specifications of that power supply?

.Thanks
. no the ground connection of the scope is connected directly to the
.Amp
.Its the power supply connected to the amp that trips or reads about 4
.volts instead of 9v
.The current of the PSU was set to 1 Ampere.
.Please, generally, how do you check the responds of an audio Amp on
.the scope? I mean how the probes are connected.

Do you have a two channel scope? Can you invert and add one of the
channels? If so, make a differential connection to the output with the scope
ground connected to the chassis ground of the amp. Put the inverted probe
on the low side of the output and the non-inverted probe on the high side.
The vertical gain for both channels must be the same and in the calibrated
mode.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 4:47 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I suspect the original poster doesn't know much about electronics. We should
stop trying to help him, and ask that he find someone "local" (in his own
country) who can explain how to use test equipment.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 5:14 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 6/30/2010 4:47 PM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

> I suspect the original poster doesn't know much about electronics. We should
> stop trying to help him, and ask that he find someone "local" (in his own
> country) who can explain how to use test equipment.

Don't you think it's just a mite too early to give up on him (her)? Ask
some more questions. They obviously didn't provide us with enough
information; we know how to easily fix that problem.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 5:40 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> I suspect the original poster doesn't know much about electronics.
>> We should stop trying to help him, and ask that he find someone
>> "local" (in his own country) who can explain how to use test equipment.

> Don't you think it's just a mite too early to give up on him (her)? Ask
> some more questions. They obviously didn't provide us with enough
> information; we know how to easily fix that problem.

He's obviously making some gross error, but can't explain exactly /what/
he's doing. That's all the more reason for asking him to look for local
help.

This is not unlike trying to explain to someone on the other side of the
world how to tie shoelaces.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 5:59 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 17:40:49 -0700, William Sommerwerck ǝʇoɹʍ:

>>> I suspect the original poster doesn't know much about electronics. We
>>> should stop trying to help him, and ask that he find someone "local"
>>> (in his own country) who can explain how to use test equipment.
>
>> Don't you think it's just a mite too early to give up on him (her)? Ask
>> some more questions. They obviously didn't provide us with enough
>> information; we know how to easily fix that problem.
>
> He's obviously making some gross error, but can't explain exactly /what/
> he's doing. That's all the more reason for asking him to look for local
> help.
>
> This is not unlike trying to explain to someone on the other side of the
> world how to tie shoelaces.

Bunny Ears
Probably the most common method for teaching kids to tie their own shoes
is the "Bunny Ears" method.

Tell the child that he needs to make his shoe laces into "bunny ears."
First, he needs to secure a knot for the bunny's head. Take the laces and
cross them over to make an "X". Then, pull one ear through the bottom of
the "X" and pull tight.

Say, "Now we need to give bunny some ears." Loop the laces into "bunny
ears".

Tell the child that now we need to "make the bunny ears tight so they
don't fall off". Then make another "X" using the "bunny ears", slide one
"ear" under the "X" and pull tightly.

Plagiarized from:
http://kidsfashion.about.com/od/doityourselfstyles/tp/kidstieshoes.htm

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 7:46 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 6/30/2010 5:59 PM Meat Plow spake thus:

> On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 17:40:49 -0700, William Sommerwerck ǝʇoɹʍ:
>
>> This is not unlike trying to explain to someone on the other side of the
>> world how to tie shoelaces.
>
> Bunny Ears
> Probably the most common method for teaching kids to tie their own shoes
> is the "Bunny Ears" method.
>
> Tell the child that he needs to make his shoe laces into "bunny ears."
> First, he needs to secure a knot for the bunny's head. Take the laces and
> cross them over to make an "X". Then, pull one ear through the bottom of
> the "X" and pull tight.
>
> Say, "Now we need to give bunny some ears." Loop the laces into "bunny
> ears".

[...]

Ackshooly, the way I heard it taught over here (U.S.) was similar, but
more along the lines of making a bunny (to make the first loop), then
"chasing the bunny around the stump" to complete the tie.

Dang, now I won't be able to tie my shoes at all ...

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: GM keyless entry
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f61f967d44d7a705?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:23 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

Have you changed the battery in any recent time?

I worked on one for a late model Chevy Malibu recently and found bad
solder on all of the battery connections. Resoldering the contacts
(some of which were easier than others) restored perfect operation.

I would not call it really easy, as the through-hole pins of the
battery holder were only barely long enough to be seen on the other
side of the hole in the circuit board.

William

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 2:39 pm
From: John Robertson

Chuck Norisez wrote:
> My GM keyless entry pad is intermittant. Cleaning dosen't seem to help.
> Anyone seen a schematic for these things?
>
> Thanks, Chuck

The problem could be either the keypad, battery holder, cracked PCB, or
the car receiver.

If you have a reasonably fast 'scope you might be able to see the signal
given off by the transmitter - take a short hunk of wire, wrap it around
the transmitter, then hook one end to the probe and the other to the
probe ground wire. Press the button and see if the scope shows something
with the voltage set to the lowest position and the horizontal set to
just about the fastest (except for a VERY fast scope of course!). I use
this setup for testing 21mHz controllers used in old Wall games
(coin-operated arcade games).

Can't you order a replacement module from GM?

If not haunt second hand shops looking for similar units for parts....

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: NAD 140 schematic please
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dde7fabfc99d6ac3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:27 pm
From: Tim Schwartz

Hello all,

I'm in need of a schematic for a NAD 140 receiver. This is a very
early NAD, likely around 1975, before they were sold in the USA, and
before the 3020 integrated amp that made them famous. I'm hoping
someone in the Canada or Europe may have some service info.

There were 4 receivers in this series, 120, 140, 160 and 300. I found
a schematic for the 300, but it is not close enough. I've been in touch
with NAD in Canada, but they don't have any info on it.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How to network a usb modem for 3 computers
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d9d90e50200250cc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 1:33 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

What kind of "modem" is this? Is it a telephone modem or something
else?

If it is a cable modem or DSL connection device, it may already have
an Ethernet connector built in...in which case you can connect that to
a cheap NAT router (readily available in stores where computer
products are sold) and plug that into (usually) up to four computers.

If you cannot do that, Windows and some other operating systems can be
configured to share your connection amongst other computers. To use
this, you'd need a cheap Ethernet network hub or switch, network
interfaces in each computer and suitable cabling for each station that
you will be plugging in.

A web search should give you more information about how to set up your
computer's software to do this, and how to hook it all up.

William

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 2:49 pm
From: "petrus bitbyter"

<fynnashba@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:9e41fc01-83f4-4042-9c92-422f5e022574@c10g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
> Hi everyone
> I have a USB internet MODEM and I want to connect it to my 3
> other PCs at home so they can all browse. The 3 PCs are already
> networked in Peer 2 Peer. How do I do this? Please
> Thanks.
> I know this is not the correct place for this question, I posted it
> on the computer group and didn't even see it there.

You'll have to network your PCs with a switch. Then you can use one of the
PCs, the one with the USB-modem, as a server for the other computers. Off
course that computer needs to be up and running when the others want to
browse on the net. In XP all facilities to do it are available.

petrus bitbyter

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 3:29 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 11:15:21 -0700, fynnashba@yahoo.com ǝʇoɹʍ:

> Hi everyone
> I have a USB internet MODEM and I want to connect it to my 3
> other PCs at home so they can all browse. The 3 PCs are already
> networked in Peer 2 Peer. How do I do this? Please Thanks.
> I know this is not the correct place for this question, I posted it
> on the computer group and didn't even see it there.

If the computers are peer 2 peer you need to install and configure
Internet Sharing. That is provided you use at least Windows XP which by
the way you were too stupid to mention what operating system you use.
Look it up on Google or Wikipedia.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Orange Rocker 30, combo, 2006
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fdf96ce609e107d9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 5:34 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i0fr3p$a8g$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:GyJWn.72240$vB5.65494@hurricane...
>>
>>
>> "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrni2maf9.qj2.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
>> > Arfa Daily wrote:
>> >
>> >> If I told you that Geoff, I'd be destroying my niche market. Suffice
>> >> to
>> >> say
>> >> that they used triodes with more than three electrodes ... d;~}
>> >
>> > Don't forget to sell them these:
>> >
>> > http://global.aopen.com/products_detail.aspx?Auno=53
>> >
>> > Although they have long since been discontinued (or deleted in
>> > English).
>> >
>> > Geoff.
>> >
>> > --
>>
>>
>> Oh, that's soooo unfair. I was just about to put in an order for some of
>> those to use as the controller for my LED pilot bulb replacement upgrade
> ...
>> Rats. I guess it's back to using the warehouse full of ZX Spectrums that
>> I've got then ... :-|
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
>
> What is the state of the vacuum-formed plastic of the Sinclair ZX80s these
> days?
>
>

I'd forgotten that ! Dunno. haven't seen one in years ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Teac AG-790 has me stumped...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/19f1f1c9d95691fb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 5:44 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William R. Walsh" <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a5cd455f-6fdc-4b58-b994-7a7be2be5f0d@q12g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
> Hi!
>
>> Yes, as long as the relay is closing, you can measure offset at the
>> speaker terminals, with one slight reservation. In the case that you can
>> hear nothing at all from the speakers, but you hear the relay close, you
>> need to make sure that having closed, the relay is actually staying
>> closed.
>
> I am pretty sensitive to the noises of relays and such, and if one
> does something out of the ordinary, I usually catch it in a sort of
> "and what do you think you're doing?" moment. (My hearing is also good
> enough to catch a lot of high frequency noises that some circuits
> make, and that has clued me in to a few problems on other repairs.)
>
> This one really does seem to stay closed. It produces pretty
> noticeable clicks and clacks.
>
>> What's the circuit designation of the new cap that you've found to be
>> bad ?
>
> I am not near the receiver now and will have to look.
>
>> I note you say that you are using the cap checking facility on your
>> multimeter. What parameter does this measure ? Capacitance
>> maybe ?
>
> While the meter itself seems to be of decent quality and pretty
> accurate, the directions that came with it are poor and do not discuss
> how to do anything except voltage and resistance checks. Even those
> are very poorly expressed by way of poorly written or translated
> instructions.
>
> The display reading in the "cap test" mode is expressed in nano or
> microfarads, although the test seems to be limited to low voltage and
> capacitance levels. So it would appear to be useless outside of small,
> low voltage capacitors.
>
> For those that seem to exceed the ceiling on the meter, I've done a
> simple resistance test on the caps. A neighbor suggested this method,
> and stated that a good cap would slowly charge up and that the
> resistance reading would gradually increase while it did so. This
> seems to be true. Every "bad" cap that I've found using this method
> has either been open circuit or shown a high resistance reading that
> did not change much/at all from the initial reading.
>
> At some point I do want to invest in a proper ESR meter, and the Bob
> Parker meter is the one I planned to get. If and when finances
> allow...
>
> Every suspicious cap has been removed from the circuit for testing.
> This most recent one had a heat-shrunken plastic jacket.
>
> William

Heat distress like that is always a good reason to reach for the ESR meter
... Seriously though, as soon as you can afford it, invest in one. The
"Blue" is very reasonably priced, and is a fine performer. You'll never
regret a day of owning it. The thing that makes an ESR meter different from
the static DC tests that you are carrying out at the moment, is that it
applies high frequency AC to the cap, which is what is required to arrive at
a true ESR value. It is this use of low voltage AC, which also makes the
meter able to perform its test with the component still in-circuit, which is
a huge advantage, particularly when a board is hard to get out of equipment.
This assumes of course, that you can get to the cap's leadouts on the top
side of the board.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: So, who's the king of finding data sheets ... ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4e444c319ac55fa0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 6:31 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Arfa Daily"
"Phil Allison"
>
>>>> The PSU in that JVC is likely to be of the unregulated kind - ie a
>>>> simple square wave inverter.
>>>>
>>>> These are far preferable for audio amplifiers and cheaper to make too.
>>>
>>> It's actually not.
>>
>> ** Really ??
>>
>> How would you know ?
>
> Oh you half baked twat. I was referring to the design of the supply, which
> is NOT a simple square wave inverter.

** Again - how would you know ?

In professional audio, high powered amps are now commonly using SMPS -
all of them of the simple square wave inverter kind. PFC circuits exist
only on a few of the very largest ( and most expensive) examples and then
ONLY to get the mains RMS current draw down to sane numbers.

Forward converters are seen in a few small powered mixers, the Fender
Passport series is one example - no PFC circuit in sight. These have a 120
/140 volt switch fitted and cause no problems here in 240 volt Australia.

>>> As to them being better for audio work,
>>
>>
>> ** Preferable to either flyback or forward converters and cheaper to make
>> at the high power levels needed.
>>
>> Try learning to read what has been written.
>
> Ha! , and you say WHAT ?

** I say you are lying, pommy idiot.

> There are differences in requirements, yes, but that does not negate the
> basic principles involved.

** There is no principle involved.

It is a matter of the designers using what is needed and what works best.

They know what they are doing, while smug pommy twats like you do not.

> Do you make this stuff up on your own ? You know, we can all snip bits out
> of posts, and then comment on them out of context,

** All my comments are fully in context - even when that context comes
straight from the back garden of pixie land.

BTW:

Do you still think that Marshall amps were designed by Jim Marshall ??

..... Phil

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b8b5692dccf74540?hl=en
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3dc4bbb82c8c4356?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sanyo CRT-tv. HOT tested bad. Transformer noisy. What next?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32324e08982f8dea?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 30 2010 10:08 pm
From: Meatman

Sanyo 35" CRT Mod # DS35590.

PROBLEM: No pic or sound, only the steady, high-pitched whine. Not
very loud. Only unplugging the set stops the noise. Power button
ineffective. Used small tube-in-ear stethescope method to find sound -
sound is from transformer nearby, for sure. This is NOT the FBT, it's
the other one. Main power T'former I suppose. HOT tested bad. So i
know I need that. Checked solders. No bulging CAPS. Gut says replace
FB & HOT and run with it. BUT, is transformer noise related? Please
advise. Thx. Kevin.

UPDATE!!! Just swapped out bad HOT for known good one (different
spec's, from a 32" toshiba crt, but a good HOT). Result is that the
high-pitched whine from the T'former turned into a rapid 'tick' or
'click' sound and at relatively the same volume. Probably 30 cycles/
sec. Does this help? Is this transformer a problem with it alone, or
is it brought on by failed HOT and/or FBT. I need to know what else
to check. Don't mind replacing HOT and FBT, but don't wanna miss
anything either. Thx. Kevin.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9528fe1684961b3f?hl=en
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