sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 15 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Air Max TN2 shoes,paypal payment (http://www.cntrade09.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9528fe1684961b3f?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
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TOPIC: So, who's the king of finding data sheets ... ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4e444c319ac55fa0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 1:52 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:8929ffFlk0U1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Arfa Daily"
> "Phil Allison"
>>
>>>>> The PSU in that JVC is likely to be of the unregulated kind - ie a
>>>>> simple square wave inverter.
>>>>>
>>>>> These are far preferable for audio amplifiers and cheaper to make too.
>>>>
>>>> It's actually not.
>>>
>>> ** Really ??
>>>
>>> How would you know ?
>>
>> Oh you half baked twat. I was referring to the design of the supply,
>> which is NOT a simple square wave inverter.
>
>
> ** Again - how would you know ?
>
> In professional audio, high powered amps are now commonly using SMPS -
> all of them of the simple square wave inverter kind. PFC circuits exist
> only on a few of the very largest ( and most expensive) examples and then
> ONLY to get the mains RMS current draw down to sane numbers.
>
> Forward converters are seen in a few small powered mixers, the Fender
> Passport series is one example - no PFC circuit in sight. These have a
> 120 /140 volt switch fitted and cause no problems here in 240 volt
> Australia.
>
>
>
>>>> As to them being better for audio work,
>>>
>>>
>>> ** Preferable to either flyback or forward converters and cheaper to
>>> make at the high power levels needed.
>>>
>>> Try learning to read what has been written.
>>
>> Ha! , and you say WHAT ?
>
>
> ** I say you are lying, pommy idiot.
>
>
>> There are differences in requirements, yes, but that does not negate the
>> basic principles involved.
>
> ** There is no principle involved.
>
> It is a matter of the designers using what is needed and what works best.
>
> They know what they are doing, while smug pommy twats like you do not.
>
>
>> Do you make this stuff up on your own ? You know, we can all snip bits
>> out of posts, and then comment on them out of context,
>
>
> ** All my comments are fully in context - even when that context comes
> straight from the back garden of pixie land.
>

No they're not. You've done it again in this reply. The context only comes
directly from Pixie Land in your stupid head, as every sane person on here
knows ... Do you actually know the meaning of the phrase "in context" ? Or
come to that, even know the meaning of the single word ? No ? I thought not
... You do it all the time in every thread that you get involved in. You
ignore anything that you can't refute and snip it out. Then you take
everything else, cut out anything that fixes the context, and then post one
of your ill thought-out stupid-headed replies, usually with some offensive
comment attached. If I'm smug, then sobeit. It's because I know how much
better I am in every regard than you. Twat ? Well, I really think that you
have got that one tied up all on your own, Phil.

> BTW:
>
> Do you still think that Marshall amps were designed by Jim Marshall ??
>
>
>
> ..... Phil
>

What's that got to do with this thread ? Now run along, take your meds, and
go to bed in a nice dark room for a few hours, until those nasty voices in
your head stop talking to you ...

Arfa

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 3:33 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Arfa Daily is off with the Goblins & Pixies"

>> Do you still think that Marshall amps were designed by Jim Marshall ??
>>
>
> What's that got to do with this thread ?

** Proves my point.

... Phil

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 9:55 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 01 Jul 2010 20:33:22 +1000, Phil Allison ǝʇoɹʍ:

> Proves my point.

You have to have a point in order to prove it. In this case you didn't
and you used the thread to discredit and insult -as usual- now run along
and fix some amps and leave the chatter for the big boys.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How do I check the output of an amp with a scope?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b586764171b3ca8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 2:11 am
From: Ron

On 01/07/2010 03:46, David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 6/30/2010 5:59 PM Meat Plow spake thus:
>
>> On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 17:40:49 -0700, William Sommerwerck ǝʇoɹʍ:
>>
>>> This is not unlike trying to explain to someone on the other side of the
>>> world how to tie shoelaces.
>>
>> Bunny Ears
>> Probably the most common method for teaching kids to tie their own
>> shoes is the "Bunny Ears" method.
>>
>> Tell the child that he needs to make his shoe laces into "bunny ears."
>> First, he needs to secure a knot for the bunny's head. Take the laces
>> and cross them over to make an "X". Then, pull one ear through the
>> bottom of the "X" and pull tight.
>>
>> Say, "Now we need to give bunny some ears." Loop the laces into "bunny
>> ears".
>
> [...]
>
> Ackshooly, the way I heard it taught over here (U.S.) was similar, but
> more along the lines of making a bunny (to make the first loop), then
> "chasing the bunny around the stump" to complete the tie.
>
> Dang, now I won't be able to tie my shoes at all ...
>
>

riiight... now he can tie his shoes, all that remains is to tell him
how to hook his scope across the output of his amp!

Sheesh

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 5:15 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Bunny Ears
> Probably the most common method for teaching kids to tie their own shoes
> is the "Bunny Ears" method.

> Tell the child that he needs to make his shoe laces into "bunny ears."
> First, he needs to secure a knot for the bunny's head. Take the laces and
> cross them over to make an "X". Then, pull one ear through the bottom of
> the "X" and pull tight.

> Say, "Now we need to give bunny some ears." Loop the laces into "bunny
> ears".

> Tell the child that now we need to "make the bunny ears tight so they
> don't fall off". Then make another "X" using the "bunny ears", slide one
> "ear" under the "X" and pull tightly.

I think PETA would object.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 10:12 am
From: David Nebenzahl

On 7/1/2010 5:15 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

>> Bunny Ears
>> Probably the most common method for teaching kids to tie their own shoes
>> is the "Bunny Ears" method.
>
>> Tell the child that he needs to make his shoe laces into "bunny ears."
>> First, he needs to secure a knot for the bunny's head. Take the laces and
>> cross them over to make an "X". Then, pull one ear through the bottom of
>> the "X" and pull tight.
>
>> Say, "Now we need to give bunny some ears." Loop the laces into "bunny
>> ears".
>
>> Tell the child that now we need to "make the bunny ears tight so they
>> don't fall off". Then make another "X" using the "bunny ears", slide one
>> "ear" under the "X" and pull tightly.
>
> I think PETA would object.

But no bunnies were harmed in this metaphorical example ...

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 10:24 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>> Tell the child that now we need to "make the bunny ears
>>> tight so they don't fall off". Then make another "X" using
>>> the "bunny ears", slide one "ear" under the "X" and pull
>>> tightly.

>> I think PETA would object.

> But no bunnies were harmed in this metaphorical example ...

It's the principle of the thing!

"I say unto you, that whoever harms a bunny in his thought, has as much
harmed the bunny in its body."

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TOPIC: Wax conformal coating over SM
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d9b73638a6938e5d?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 4:35 am
From: "N_Cook"

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markings but the wax residue/oil makes it very difficult to read even under
x30 microscope barrrel and various angles of light. Any ideas on how to
increase the contrast/readability?

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/82abad1aeae3862a?hl=en
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TOPIC: OT: Weasel Stomping Day
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d1958d770b2556a?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 5:17 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

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questions." -- Edwin Land

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 7:39 am
From: b

On 1 jul, 14:17, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> Today, June 31, is Weasel Stomping Day.
>
> Search Wikipedia for the entry. There's a link at the bottom to a charming
> music video.
>
> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8710797866388017148&q=Weasel+...

classic!

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TOPIC: Simple hack to get $1500 to your home
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da19746e31d40ade?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sanyo CRT-tv. HOT tested bad. Transformer noisy. What next?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32324e08982f8dea?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 6:11 am
From: Chuck

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:08:49 -0700 (PDT), Meatman
<KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote:

>Sanyo 35" CRT Mod # DS35590.
>
>PROBLEM: No pic or sound, only the steady, high-pitched whine. Not
>very loud. Only unplugging the set stops the noise. Power button
>ineffective. Used small tube-in-ear stethescope method to find sound -
>sound is from transformer nearby, for sure. This is NOT the FBT, it's
>the other one. Main power T'former I suppose. HOT tested bad. So i
>know I need that. Checked solders. No bulging CAPS. Gut says replace
>FB & HOT and run with it. BUT, is transformer noise related? Please
>advise. Thx. Kevin.
>
>UPDATE!!! Just swapped out bad HOT for known good one (different
>spec's, from a 32" toshiba crt, but a good HOT). Result is that the
>high-pitched whine from the T'former turned into a rapid 'tick' or
>'click' sound and at relatively the same volume. Probably 30 cycles/
>sec. Does this help? Is this transformer a problem with it alone, or
>is it brought on by failed HOT and/or FBT. I need to know what else
>to check. Don't mind replacing HOT and FBT, but don't wanna miss
>anything either. Thx. Kevin.

Make sure you replace the electrolytic capacitor off of the horizontal
drive transformer. Chuck

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 7:46 am
From: b

On 1 jul, 07:08, Meatman <KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Sanyo 35" CRT Mod # DS35590.
>
> PROBLEM: No pic or sound, only the steady, high-pitched whine. Not
> very loud. Only unplugging the set stops the noise. Power button
> ineffective. Used small tube-in-ear stethescope method to find sound -
> sound is from transformer nearby, for sure. This is NOT the FBT, it's
> the other one. Main power T'former I suppose. HOT tested bad. So i
> know I need that. Checked solders. No bulging CAPS. Gut says replace
> FB & HOT and run with it. BUT, is transformer noise related? Please
> advise. Thx. Kevin.
>
> UPDATE!!! Just swapped out bad HOT for known good one (different
> spec's, from a 32" toshiba crt, but a good HOT). Result is that the
> high-pitched whine from the T'former turned into a rapid 'tick' or
> 'click' sound and at relatively the same volume. Probably 30 cycles/
> sec. Does this help? Is this transformer a problem with it alone, or
> is it brought on by failed HOT and/or FBT. I need to know what else
> to check. Don't mind replacing HOT and FBT, but don't wanna miss
> anything either. Thx. Kevin.

I think you're in the right direction, could be the FBT at fault.
At any rate, there is probably something loading down the line output
stage.
check the diodes in the lines of supplies derived from the FBT
secondary.

Have you eliminated the PSU? Check the psu secondary side for shorted
components or open resistors. You need to make sure the B+ line
feeding the line output stage is correct.

As chuck says, check the horizontal drive circuit and especially the
solder joints. Change the cap (often a polyester film type) between c-
e on the HOT or it will probably blow again.

Let us know how you get on!
-B

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Danger of running hot receiver (Kyocera)?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2eeb7d68559500c5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 6:23 am
From: Chuck

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:11:12 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

>Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 00:52:12 +0000, Cydrome Leader ??o??:
>>
>>> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>>> Got someone with a Kyocera receiver (R-851, 85 w/chan.) that they say
>>>> "smells like something's burning". Don't have more specific information
>>>> than that; I'm assuming no magic smoke is visible. I'm advising them
>>>> that perhaps something (dust, etc.) is in the heat sink that's getting
>>>> heated and smelling. Apparently the output stages (MOSFET) of these
>>>> beasts tend to run on the hot side.
>>>
>>> weird heatsink in that thing:
>>>
>>> http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=246095
>>
>> I've seen many of those in different pro power amps.
>
>It's a first for me. I can't say I've ever seen a kyocera amp in the US
>either.
>
>Do those heatpipes ever leak or break after being decades old?

Kyocera was sold by high end audio salons in the U.S., during the mid
80s, as an entry level line. The products were very well built and
reliable. One of their cd players was sold under the ADC brand name
at a very low price. It was probably the best cd player buy in its
day. Chuck

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TOPIC: 2010 HOT UPDATES
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c1428f75c2ccc932?hl=en
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== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 10:35 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 01 Jul 2010 07:34:19 -0700, GURU ǝʇoɹʍ:

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>
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: continuous action solder sucker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1447a02166d89d01?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 7:40 am
From: rush14

On Jun 29, 11:05 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> I'm attempting to fabricate a continuous action solder sucker along
> the lines of those used at work
>
> when repairing circuit boards. They were fast, clean, easy to use and
> prevented damage to the circuit boards from excessive prolonged heat.
>
> Unfortunately I'm now retired and the factory work has all been
> outsourced overseas. There's nobody left now from work who would know
> about this.
>
> As I recall they consisted of a vacuum source (unknown to me), a
> flexible hose connected to a small cylinder with a tuft of steel wool
> inside to trap solder and a teflon sucking tip at the other end of
> the cylinder.
>
> Apparently there is more to vacuum technology than I imagined because
> all my attempts have so far failed miserably. When I adapt a short
> (~3 foot) flexible hose to my vacuum source the suction at the end of
> the hose is almost non-existent.
>
> My first attempt was using the air intake of a 12V automotive tire
> inflator, an idea I got from extensive Google searching, although not
> intended for that purpose. There seemed to be plenty of suction at the
> air intake itself but almost no suction at the end of the flexible
> hose.
>
> I then decided to go to extremes and adapted the hose to the vacuum
> port of a powerful shop vac. I actually expected the hose to collapse
> from excessive vacuum but instead there was again almost no suction at
> the end of the hose. I then added a secondary intake port to
> alleviate what I thought might be excessive load on the shop vac then
> tried using the shop vac exhaust port to create a vacuum. Neither
> attempt worked.
>
> I would normally give up but I know the theory behind it works from my
> experience at the factory. I'm apparently ignorant in the physics of
> vacuum.
>
> I'm also familiar with other desoldering tools including plunger and
> squeeze bulb solder suckers, solder wick and built in suckers on
> soldering irons. I've found them all lacking in one way or another
> compared to the gizmo I'm trying to imitate from the factory.
>
> Any ideas from you guys about the error of my ways will be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Rush

I appreciate the 5 responses I received and all your advice is well
taken. I admit to being obsessed with this challenge. I'm retired
from industrial electronics and now consider myself only a hobbyist so
the commercial equivalents of what I'm trying to do are just not
feasible.

I still don't understand why the small pumps used in commercial
desoldering equipment far outperform the shop vac I had tried. The
shop vac experiment was only an overkill step in an attempt to begin
fine tuning the solder sucker idea.

Thanks again for your input,
Rush

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 7:58 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <732fbe89-97bd-499f-ad18-99066ece2603@d37g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>, rush14 <rush14@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>On Jun 29, 11:05=A0am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>> I'm attempting to fabricate a continuous action solder sucker along
>> the lines of those used at work
>>
>> when repairing circuit boards. =A0They were fast, clean, easy to use and
>> prevented damage to the circuit boards from excessive prolonged heat.
>>
>> Unfortunately I'm now retired and the factory work has all been
>> outsourced overseas. =A0There's nobody left now from work who would know
>> about this.
>>
>> As I recall they consisted of a vacuum source (unknown to me), a
>> flexible hose connected to a small cylinder with a tuft of steel wool
>> inside to trap solder and a =A0teflon sucking tip at the other end of
>> the cylinder.
>>
>> Apparently there is more to vacuum technology than I imagined because
>> all my attempts have so far failed miserably. =A0When I adapt a short
>> (~3 foot) flexible hose to my vacuum source the suction at the end of
>> the hose is almost non-existent.
>>
>> My first attempt was using the air intake of a 12V automotive tire
>> inflator, an idea I got from extensive Google searching, although not
>> intended for that purpose. There seemed to be plenty of suction at the
>> air intake itself but almost no suction at the end of the flexible
>> hose.
>>
>> I then decided to go to extremes and adapted the hose to the vacuum
>> port of a powerful shop vac. =A0I actually expected the hose to collapse
>> from excessive vacuum but instead there was again almost no suction at
>> the end of the hose. =A0I then added a secondary intake port to
>> alleviate what I thought might be excessive load on the shop vac then
>> tried using the shop vac exhaust port to create a vacuum. =A0Neither
>> attempt worked.
>>
>> I would normally give up but I know the theory behind it works from my
>> experience at the factory. =A0I'm apparently ignorant in the physics of
>> vacuum.
>>
>> I'm also familiar with other desoldering tools including plunger and
>> squeeze bulb solder suckers, solder wick and built in suckers on
>> soldering irons. =A0I've found them all lacking in one way or another
>> compared to the gizmo I'm trying to imitate from the factory.
>>
>> Any ideas from you guys about the error of my ways will be greatly
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks a bunch,
>> Rush
>
>I appreciate the 5 responses I received and all your advice is well
>taken. I admit to being obsessed with this challenge. I'm retired
>from industrial electronics and now consider myself only a hobbyist so
>the commercial equivalents of what I'm trying to do are just not
>feasible.
>
>I still don't understand why the small pumps used in commercial
>desoldering equipment far outperform the shop vac I had tried. The
>shop vac experiment was only an overkill step in an attempt to begin
>fine tuning the solder sucker idea.
>

High volume is not necessarily high vacuum. You will have to measure the vacuum.
My little 170 cfm radon fan will suck two inches of water.

greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE BY A SECOND
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0bb447a4b4f95df6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 8:00 am
From: "Tiresh kumar K.C"

DEAR ALL ,

VISIT:
Click here

http://successpsycho.blogspot.com

AND TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE BY A SECOND :

TO KNOW

-NEW SECRET OF YOUR LIFE

-SUCCESS FACTORS

-THOUGHT EFFECT

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 10:47 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 01 Jul 2010 08:00:40 -0700, Tiresh kumar K.C ǝʇoɹʍ:

> DEAR ALL ,
>
>
> VISIT:
> Click here
>
> http://infectmypc.blogspot.com
>
>
> AND TO INFECT YOUR COMPUTER IN A SECOND :
>
>
> TO KNOW YOU'VE BEEN SCREWED ROYAL
>
>
>
> -NEW MALWARE
>
> -SUCCESS IN INFECTION
>
> -THOUGHT YOU WERE

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MicroGem DTV converter gets pretty hot
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94edd9a03323cd5c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 8:31 am
From: G-squared

On Jun 30, 12:39 pm, franksm...@nospammie.com wrote:
> I just bought a used MicroGem DTV converter at an auction. The price
> was right, and it works ok. But I noticed that it gets pretty hot
> compared to my other converters (other brands). I also read on
> several websites that these converters are known to die in a short
> time because of excess heat, and many were sent back to the
> manufacturer for replacement. Because of the way I bought it, there
> is no warranty. Rather than let it burn out, I would like to add a
> heat sink to whatever part(s) gets hot. Does anyone know what part(s)
> overheats? (I might also enlarge the tiny holes in the case, or maybe
> even install a small fan (like a CPU fan, if there's a proper voltage
> source to run a CPU fan).
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank

Unplug it from the wall and remove the cover screws to get inside.
Leave the cover on and run it for an hour or so to heat it up. Unplug
it from the wall and remove the cover and find out where it's really
warm. You might not even have room to add a fan but they come in a
wide ranges of sizes and power capacity as shown in the DigiKey
website. It's actually difficult to build a power supply with such low
capacity that there _isn't_ spare capacity to run a fan.Also keep in
mind that the fan will _increase_ the supply capacity as it's heat
that is the limiting factor and you're getting rid of it. Now if the
fan STALLS you have extra problems.

G²

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to get schematic of Funai TV, Model FT1371?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75b6f935b5d3675?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 1 2010 8:39 am
From:

In article <cf0e27fd-cd11-4476-bf7a-
d07eb13a09d0@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>, macy@california.com says...
> Anybody got one lying around?
>
> Or at least covering the PCB on the back of the CRT neck?
>
www.funai-corp.com

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

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