sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 18 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zenith 25CC25 horizontal sweep problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0f84fb8db596265?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 12:58 am
From: Mike WB2MEP

On Jul 22, 12:22 am, Jim Adney <jad...@vwtype3.org> wrote:
> Okay, the problem has been solved. As usual, I'm embarrassed at how
> long it took me to find it.
>
> The key was in the FACT that the HV was low. It really was. There is a
> HV adjust pot, but I had not tried it because it was quite hard to
> access and I knew I had adjusted it carefully, years ago. Once I tried
> it, to see what it would do, I found that I got no response for most
> of the rotation, but at about 90% rotation the HV suddenly jumped from
> ~10 kV to ~23 kV. That pot was open near the end of its travel.
>
> This was a 4 MOhm pot which applies a bit of pos input to the HOT grid
> bias. Without this input, grid current tends to bias the HOT off. So I
> had low HV and low hor sweep. Once I fixed that, things got a LOT
> better.
>
> It turns out that as the HV goes up, the hor sweep goes up slightly
> faster, so that by the time you get to 20 kV, the picture fills the
> screen. The vert deflection shrank as the HV came up, but I was able
> to adjust it back up to fill the screen.
>
> Unfortunately, I still can't get the HV to the 25-26 kV that this set
> is supposed to have. I replaced a 27 kOhm resistor in the hor osc grid
> circuit that had gone to 35 kOhm, but that didn't help. I tried
> several 20LF6s and they all worked the same except for one which was
> clearly worn out. I finally installed a 26LX6, which is also correct
> for this set, and that gave me the same 22-24 kV that the others gave.
> And the HV pot is still cranked all the way up.
>
> Finally, I checked the DC bias on the HOT. The Zenith manual says it
> should be -80 V, so I was expecting it to be lower. It's actually -65
> V. So there must be something else wrong in that circuit.
>
> At this point, I've got a working set that looks great, but I'm
> troubled by the HV dilemma. I'd like to know what's wrong, so I can
> fix it and turn the HV pot down a bit.
>
> BTW, in this process I came across a component I've never seen before.
> Zenith call it a "voltage dependent resistor" and doesn't give ANY
> specs, just a Zenith part number. Sam's doesn't even try to offer any
> subs. Any clue what this might be? The particular VDR in this circuit
> is Zenith #63-5440. Anyone got one of this in stock? It just looks
> like a big resistor with 2 wide color bands on it. A Google search
> comes up with some places that seem to have these in stock. They seem
> to be calling these varistors, which makes sense, but this would be
> the first time I've seen a cylindrical, axial lead, varistor.
>
> Thanks, everyone, for all your help.

Yeah, Zenith used those VDRs in various places in the horiz. sweep
circuits in their late 60's - early 70's tube sets. I had one that
caused a width problem similar to yours. I discovered the open VDR
when the width improved while I measured voltage at a certain point
with my DMM. From the schematic, I found my DMM was in parallel with a
VDR. If the 10 meg DMM input improved things, it must be open. That
one I was able to use a plain resistor for, I started with a few meg
ohms and went lower until the width was satisfactory.
Another Zenith had one in the HV regulator circuit that went open and
lost regulation. The HV was running around 30 kV on a 19" set. A
regular resistor did't work on that set and I had to get the correct
part.

It looks like www.moyerelectronics.com has a 63-5440 sub. in stock.

Mike WB2MEP

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:59 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

> Another Zenith had one in the HV regulator circuit that went open and
> lost regulation. The HV was running around 30 kV on a 19" set. A
> regular resistor did't work on that set and I had to get the correct
> part.
>
> It looks like www.moyerelectronics.com has a 63-5440 sub. in stock.
>
> Mike WB2MEP

Good grief ! Did you not have x-ray protection circuits on the sets your
side of the pond ?

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: multisongs downloadings
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e3d973b1c202091?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 4:09 am
From: rose

multisongs downloadings
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Paralleled Amplifier Wiring
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d586ede5490acff1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 6:22 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <i26u7v$6o1$1@speranza.aioe.org>, "j r powell" <nospam@invalid.xy> wrote:
>Hi,
>I have a small stereo amplifier which came with two tiny 4ohm 3watt speakers.
>I'd like to combine the two channels of the amp in order to drive one, slightly
>
>larger, 8ohm 4watt speaker.
>The amp is of the non-bridgeable type, so I assume parallel wiring would be
>required - combining the two outputs together. I have read that small resistors
>
>are required in parallel configuration, to enable proper current sharing
> between
>the amplifiers, as without them the two amps would fight each other and
>overheat. Can anyone tell me the correct values for these resistors, and where
>they should be placed?
>
>thanks,
>jamie.

You forgot to give the power.

From quick reading of posts, to get more sound you can put 2- 8 ohm
speakers in parallel which will give 6 db increase over one
8 ohm.

You can bridge, say put 1-2 ohm resistors in series
with the speaker and use a bridge transformer on the input.
If you gave the minimum ohm spec of the amp, I could be more specific.
You also did not specify the output
type if the amplifier. Are the channels allready bridged ?

greg

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/86ae2edd5d0c4161?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 6:36 am
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==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1da336dcd72f661?hl=en
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TOPIC: How to Hack $2,000 to your Alertpay Account.
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Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 7:59 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Laguna beach jeans (men) (www.nike-black.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5e324245f603c958?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: C Audio Pulse 2x 1100 watt amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c3528d48b1472472?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:04 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 01:45:56 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:i29h5a$m4p$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Not actually the 1meg failed it was the TO92 over the complementary
>> 1meg gone 35uA leaky, pulling the zero point upwards
>>
>>
>>
> So, how did your lead-free lecture turn out last week ? Well received ?
> Did you video it ?
>
> Arfa

Arrrrgggg!

I just repaired a 600 watt Coolmax PC PSU that had defective PBf
soldering. Don't -ever- buy that brand, they are very poorly assembled.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:38 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i2bfro$df7$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:aD52o.256076$vB5.100403@hurricane...
>>
>>
>> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:i29h5a$m4p$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> > Not actually the 1meg failed it was the TO92 over the complementary
>> > 1meg
>> > gone 35uA leaky, pulling the zero point upwards
>> >
>> >
>>
>> So, how did your lead-free lecture turn out last week ? Well received ?
> Did
>> you video it ?
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
> outline from the .ppt here
> http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/scicaf2.htm
> interested enough to have 3/4 hour of Q&A afterwards.
> Someone from one of the PbF exempted industries there saying they were
> having horrendous problems specifying and actually obtaining
> lead-free-free
> components , there is a lot of fraudulent specification paperwork around
> apparently.
>
> And someone else from gas-fitting, no problem there as such, they just
> charge the customers £250 for a new controller board when it is just PbF
> solder failings on the not so old previous board, subjected to normal
> in-service conditions but too much heat for pbf.
>
>

Yes, I've come across this one. Apparently, there's quite a lot of problems
caused on these PbF boards, by relay hammer, which leads to the joints on
those devices fracturing. The real bummer on this though, is that the boards
have been manufactured in lead-free to help the environment (according to
the green mist eco-bollox brigade, anyway) but what's actually happening is
the things are failing *because* of the lead-free solder, and then a
perfectly otherwise serviceable board, which could easily be repaired, is
being replaced as a service spare, much like a faulty gas valve or pump
motor or whatever, because the person who calls out to fix the fault is a
plumber, and has little or no electronic savvy. A person who I know that is
a plumber, says that his garage is full of scrap boards, and that every now
and then, he just collects them all up and takes them to the tip. How green
and eco friendly is that ? I've been trying to persuade him to collect a big
bag of them up for me to take off his hands, but no luck so far ... I
wonder if the control boards from other appliances like washing machines and
dishwashers suffer the same because of lead-free construction. Actually
there is a little domestic electrical sales and repair shop next to one of
our cafes. Next time I'm down there, I will pop in and see the owner and ask
him. There might be some mileage in this. I'm thinking purely from the
business angle and wads in my pocket of course, rather than the green issues
... :-)

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Midiverb ii issues?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aaedd7aef36420d1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:16 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"El Grillo" <nradina@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0b3f8d3e-ce83-4a8d-a032-59a743522db2@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
> Hello,
>
> I'm an new electronic technician TRYING to grasp a hold of my
> troubleshooting skills.
> I have two Midiverb 2's on my bench currently.
>
> One I was able to repair by replaceing some bad Filter caps, but the
> other is still giving me all the indicator diodes are lit and the 2
> digit screen is dead.
>
> I tested all caps with an ESR meter and all is good.
> Noticed one small decoupling cap looked funky and replaced, but no
> luck.
> (I'm also a bit unsure if I replaced with the right cap. I had a few
> 104 film caps in the shop).
>
> SO...I'm asking for a bit of help from you all, if willing.
>
> Any idea where I should be looking?
>
> Thanks in advice for any help you can send my way.
>
> nicholas

Supply rails all correct voltages and clean (check with digital voltmeter
and 'scope) ? Processor chip receiving correct reset ? Processor clock
running ? No user control jammed in 'operating' position ? Such things can
cause a processor to 'loop forever' if it executes a bit of code during boot
up, to check for button presses that are part of a diagnostic entry
sequence, and the button that's being 'pressed' is not one that is being
expected.

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:33 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:16:34 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "El Grillo" <nradina@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:0b3f8d3e-ce83-4a8d-
a032-59a743522db2@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm an new electronic technician TRYING to grasp a hold of my
>> troubleshooting skills.
>> I have two Midiverb 2's on my bench currently.
>>
>> One I was able to repair by replaceing some bad Filter caps, but the
>> other is still giving me all the indicator diodes are lit and the 2
>> digit screen is dead.
>>
>> I tested all caps with an ESR meter and all is good. Noticed one small
>> decoupling cap looked funky and replaced, but no luck.
>> (I'm also a bit unsure if I replaced with the right cap. I had a few
>> 104 film caps in the shop).
>>
>> SO...I'm asking for a bit of help from you all, if willing.
>>
>> Any idea where I should be looking?
>>
>> Thanks in advice for any help you can send my way.
>>
>> nicholas
>
> Supply rails all correct voltages and clean (check with digital
> voltmeter and 'scope) ? Processor chip receiving correct reset ?
> Processor clock running ? No user control jammed in 'operating' position
> ? Such things can cause a processor to 'loop forever' if it executes a
> bit of code during boot up, to check for button presses that are part of
> a diagnostic entry sequence, and the button that's being 'pressed' is
> not one that is being expected.
>
> Arfa

All indicators lit but no numeric display? No processor bootstrap.

I have a couple of those BTW. Nice units for sound reinforcement.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: I GOT $2000 FROM PAYPAL .
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da53564c2ff4248c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 10:21 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Dell W3000 aka LG W3000i vertical stripes on display
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a0511387c867d8c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 11:46 am
From: TMI

Has anyone had any luck with this issue?

Starts out as light stripes starting at about 1/3 screen from RT
side.for two inches

This disappears and becomes a black background for 6" from RT side
with overlay sets of white stripes and a single orange stripe.

There is a small patch of black stripes in the upper LT corner.

I think this could be a controller issue instead of a screen issue.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

Tom

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying smd device please!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b44ceae3192b04f6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 11:51 am
From: "Alexis.happyphoenix@googlemail.com"

I have perhaps foolishly tackled the repair of my freeview box -
Tvonics MDR-250 - for which no service information appears to be
available. I'm an amateur, btw. (Fault is it's powering on and
immediately shutting down repeatedly.)

I have a suspect component, marked Q700 on the PCB, suggesting that
it's a transistor of some sort, and marked 654Z. I've tried googling
for this part number but can't find any information.

Its a 6 legged device, and I don't know of any 6 legged types of
transistor. The only alternative device I've come up with is an opto-
isolator - though I don't know what the standard PCB identifier would
be for one of these.

2 pairs of pins are connected together, so there are effectively 4
legs. It's in a very cramped part of the board (next to the power
socket and what I think is a fuse on it's own little sub-board) so I
can't really work anything out from what it's connected to.

Anyways, I need some info because it's either completely short
circuit, or it's connected to something which is completely short
circuit, and I can't do much unless I find out what the thing is.

Any suggestions welcome
TIA
Alexis

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 6:51 pm
From: Randy Day

In article <a03347a2-53d7-46a2-8785-
1aea816d9c3b@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>,
alexis.happyphoenix@gmail.com says...
> I have perhaps foolishly tackled the repair of my freeview box -
> Tvonics MDR-250 - for which no service information appears to be
> available. I'm an amateur, btw. (Fault is it's powering on and
> immediately shutting down repeatedly.)
>
> I have a suspect component, marked Q700 on the PCB, suggesting that
> it's a transistor of some sort, and marked 654Z. I've tried googling
> for this part number but can't find any information.
>
> Its a 6 legged device, and I don't know of any 6 legged types of
> transistor. The only alternative device I've come up with is an opto-
> isolator - though I don't know what the standard PCB identifier would
> be for one of these.
>
> 2 pairs of pins are connected together, so there are effectively 4
> legs. It's in a very cramped part of the board (next to the power
> socket and what I think is a fuse on it's own little sub-board) so I
> can't really work anything out from what it's connected to.
>
> Anyways, I need some info because it's either completely short
> circuit, or it's connected to something which is completely short
> circuit, and I can't do much unless I find out what the thing is.

It's probably dual transistors in a
SOT pack. Searching Digikey will
likely pull up dozens of
contenders.

They can be dual npn, dual pnp or one
of each. Dual MOSFETs also use the
package. With two legs connected,
they could be wired common-emitter
for switching, push-pull for
amplification (though not likely), or
just about any combination of two
transistors.

Unfortunately, it could also be a
small IC like a single logic gate.
Lots of stuff uses the SOT package
nowadays.

Wish I could be more help.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Wega KD-36XS955
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d41634951796c588?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 2:54 pm
From: "MR.PEANUT"

I am having some problems with this 36" tv. Sometimes it will turn on
and sometimes it won`t. I had it on all day last Sunday and shut it
off
and the next day it would not turn on. It will make the usual
clicking
noises from the relays and the standby light blinks, but thats it. I
checked other
post on here and they say to replace the IC . I opened up the tv and
found 3 IC
in it. 2 that say

SHINDENGEN
MCZ3001DB
B00446
those are on the left side

and 1 on the right that says
SHINDENGEN
MCZ3001DB
B04047

Which 1 do i change? Or do i change them all?

Thanks, PEANUT

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PD-M551 CD Changer skips all discs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27428edee48ea577?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 4:06 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

steventhomas42 <steventhomas42@yahoo.com> writes:

> On Jul 22, 9:50 pm, "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zachar...@sbclobal.net>
> wrote:
> > "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> >
> > news:gwL1o.42479$AS4.26491@hurricane...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > "steventhomas42" <steventhoma...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > >news:53f07156-fdc9-45d5-a54e-3586f23064d5@x21g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> > >> Back in November 2001, I posted a message to this group about myPD->> M551and got the right answer on the first try:
> >
> > >>http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/t...
> >
> > >> I acquired and installed that ribbon cab;e and used the CD changer for
> > >> a couple of more years, but it developed another quirk that I have not
> > >> taken the time to research until now. When you insert the 6-disc
> > >> cartridge and press play, it pulls in each disc, rejects it without
> > >> playing anything and moves to the next disc until it fails all of
> > >> them.
> >
> > >> I was under the impression that the new pickup cable I put in was
> > >> actually an improved cable over the original. Was I mistaken, and
> > >> will another cable repair the problem, or do I have a different
> > >> problem now?
> >
> > >> Thanks,
> >
> > >> Steve
> >
> > > There are two very common problems on all of the Pioneer players from that
> > > era. First is the spindle motor. When a disc has loaded, does it spin ? If
> > > not, does it start if you 'help' it ? Second problem on ones with the deck
> > > mounted on top of the mech upside down, is the laser lens having fallen
> > > out of its carrier. Try gently shaking the player or tipping it around to
> > > see if you can hear anything rolling about. The lens can be re-attached,
> > > but it's a bit of a delicate job, and there are a couple of pitfalls to
> > > look out for. If it turns out to be either of these problems, post back,
> > > and one of us should be able to guide you through the repair process.
> > > FWIW, I think it is unlikely that you would have a problem again with the
> > > flexiprint cable.
> >
> > > Arfa
> >
> > Also, collapsed rubber insulators allow the disc to scrape while playing.
> > Very common, and causes skipping.
> >
> > Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> It's not skipping because it never plays anything. The discs stay in
> for about 5 seconds before they are returned to the cartridge and the
> next disc is pulled.

As another post mentioned, first check to see if the disc is rotating
at all. While a disc is in position, you can give it a nudge to see
if it is free to spin. If it is free to spin but doesn't could be
a bad spindle motor or lack of focus due to a dropped lens (or something
else).

A common symptom of the bad spindle motor though is that the disc turns
too slowly to be recognized, not that it doesn't spin at all.

More info in the CD Repair FAQ at the Web sites below.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 5:45 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" <sam@repairfaq.org> wrote in message
news:ufwz9vlv2.fsf@repairfaq.org...
> steventhomas42 <steventhomas42@yahoo.com> writes:
>
>> On Jul 22, 9:50 pm, "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zachar...@sbclobal.net>
>> wrote:
>> > "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> >
>> > news:gwL1o.42479$AS4.26491@hurricane...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > > "steventhomas42" <steventhoma...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> > >news:53f07156-fdc9-45d5-a54e-3586f23064d5@x21g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>> > >> Back in November 2001, I posted a message to this group about
>> > >> myPD->> M551and got the right answer on the first try:
>> >
>> > >>http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/browse_thread/t...
>> >
>> > >> I acquired and installed that ribbon cab;e and used the CD changer
>> > >> for
>> > >> a couple of more years, but it developed another quirk that I have
>> > >> not
>> > >> taken the time to research until now. When you insert the 6-disc
>> > >> cartridge and press play, it pulls in each disc, rejects it without
>> > >> playing anything and moves to the next disc until it fails all of
>> > >> them.
>> >
>> > >> I was under the impression that the new pickup cable I put in was
>> > >> actually an improved cable over the original. Was I mistaken, and
>> > >> will another cable repair the problem, or do I have a different
>> > >> problem now?
>> >
>> > >> Thanks,
>> >
>> > >> Steve
>> >
>> > > There are two very common problems on all of the Pioneer players from
>> > > that
>> > > era. First is the spindle motor. When a disc has loaded, does it spin
>> > > ? If
>> > > not, does it start if you 'help' it ? Second problem on ones with the
>> > > deck
>> > > mounted on top of the mech upside down, is the laser lens having
>> > > fallen
>> > > out of its carrier. Try gently shaking the player or tipping it
>> > > around to
>> > > see if you can hear anything rolling about. The lens can be
>> > > re-attached,
>> > > but it's a bit of a delicate job, and there are a couple of pitfalls
>> > > to
>> > > look out for. If it turns out to be either of these problems, post
>> > > back,
>> > > and one of us should be able to guide you through the repair process.
>> > > FWIW, I think it is unlikely that you would have a problem again with
>> > > the
>> > > flexiprint cable.
>> >
>> > > Arfa
>> >
>> > Also, collapsed rubber insulators allow the disc to scrape while
>> > playing.
>> > Very common, and causes skipping.
>> >
>> > Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -
>> >
>> > - Show quoted text -
>>
>> It's not skipping because it never plays anything. The discs stay in
>> for about 5 seconds before they are returned to the cartridge and the
>> next disc is pulled.
>
> As another post mentioned, first check to see if the disc is rotating
> at all. While a disc is in position, you can give it a nudge to see
> if it is free to spin. If it is free to spin but doesn't could be
> a bad spindle motor or lack of focus due to a dropped lens (or something
> else).
>
> A common symptom of the bad spindle motor though is that the disc turns
> too slowly to be recognized, not that it doesn't spin at all.

I've found both to be about equally the case, Sam. When they run slowly, the
Pioneers almost always 'squeal', which is a dead giveaway of spindle motor
trouble. But I've also had lots with a dead spot, and which don't spin at
all until given a little 'help'. Once they've been got running, some will
come up to speed ok enough to read the TOC, but others will run slowly, and
do the squealing thing.

Arfa

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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:06 pm
From: sms

mp8085- basic instruction

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 23 2010 9:24 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 7/23/2010 9:06 PM sms spake thus:

> mp8085- basic instruction

CMP OP,clueless
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