sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder - 6 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
* Is it just me or... - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/406a9aeafad00ad9?hl=en
* Where to get schematic of Funai TV, Model FT1371? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75b6f935b5d3675?hl=en
* Telephone wiring 101. - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d228c87bcf04bd?hl=en
* Valve/tube, A/R fault - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/51967f830b2ca3c2?hl=en
* PowerWare 9110 UPS schematic?? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b7a20f044b334c4?hl=en
* See Hot College Girls Latest Sex Videos. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ea55f12a21551450?hl=en
* Simple Hack To Get $2000 To Your PayPal Account - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9866607c24d9a7ba?hl=en
* Diode symbol confusion - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c797e2c1bcaa92d5?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 1:04 am
From: John Doe

none given.now (Joe) wrote:

> Why are there these two very similar solders? Is there any
> situation where one is better than the other?

Dunno, but... If you do detail work, try water-soluble flux
solder. You just wipe off the residue for a sparkling clean
circuit.

Good luck and have fun.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 4:22 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <4c3ec127$0$4762$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:

> none given.now (Joe) wrote:
>
> > Why are there these two very similar solders? Is there any
> > situation where one is better than the other?
>
> Dunno, but... If you do detail work, try water-soluble flux
> solder. You just wipe off the residue for a sparkling clean
> circuit.
>
> Good luck and have fun.

60/40 was the standard for many years, until it was learned that 63/37
was more accurately eutectic. 60/40 was kept around as a legacy product
since millions of customers worldwide had written the spec into their
procedural documentation. But distributors (in my part of the world
anyway) stopped stocking much of a 60/40 selection about 20 years ago.

As for water soluble flux, it has at least one significant drawback; it
is corrosive at room temperature (unlike RMA for example which is only
"active" when heated.) Therefore, any flux residue left on the board (or
whatever you're soldering) will lead to corrosion. Without full
immersion in a sonic tank, it can be difficult or impossible to wash it
all away.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 4:28 am
From: PeterD

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 00:54:43 -0700, none@given.now (Joe) wrote:

>Why are there these two very similar solders? Is there any situation
>where one is better than the other?
>
>I understand the eutectic nature of 63/37, and I wonder if/when 60/40
>might ever be better to use.
>
>--- Joe

The advantage is when you need a lower melting temperature. However,
the difference is slight. 63/37 also does not have as much of a
plastic state when melting.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:01 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

As far as I know, no.

63/37 has been "known" to be eutectic for at least 50 years. (I read about
it in "Popular Electronics" as a wee babe.)

The only reason 60/40 was ever manufactured in the first place is that tin
is more expensive than lead, so 63/37 solder costs more. Unless you're
Really Cheap, 63/37 is always preferable. It has slightly greater mechanical
strength, too, though this is rarely a consideration.

J Gordon Holt, who founded "The Stereophile", had his own theories about
soldering. Back in the days when people assembled vacuum-tube equipment from
kits, he recommended simply poking component leads through the lugs, and
soldering them without crimping them. His reasoning was that, if the
component ever needed replacement, you wouldn't have to fiddle with
uncrimping it. (If you've ever unsoldered old equipment, you know what a
tsuris this can be.) The "catch", of course, is that both the lug and the
lead have to be very clean, and you're more likely to get a cold or
incomplete connection. This is a situation where you would /definitely/ want
to use 63/37.

While I'm on the subject... I once asked the late Bob Tucker, * who wrote
the user manuals for Dynaco, why the soldering instructions were, at one
point, obviously in the "wrong" sequence. He explained that Dynaco's
"policy" was that, once a lug had three wires in it, it was to be soldered.
There was otherwise too-great a chance of it being overlooked and remaining
unsoldered, only to cause problems down the line.

* Bob, who passed on in the late '80s, was one of the nicest, most-gracious
people you could ever hope to meet. He was, perhaps surprisingly, also one
of the handsomest men I've ever seen -- by comparison, most actors and
fashion models are plain -- but he didn't seem aware of it.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:31 am
From: Boris Mohar

On 15 Jul 2010 08:04:55 GMT, John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:

>none given.now (Joe) wrote:
>
>> Why are there these two very similar solders? Is there any
>> situation where one is better than the other?
>
>Dunno, but... If you do detail work, try water-soluble flux
>solder. You just wipe off the residue for a sparkling clean
>circuit.
>
>Good luck and have fun.

Water soluble flux is conductive. You should wash it off not just wipe it.

--
Boris

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 8:42 am
From: John Larkin

On 15 Jul 2010 08:04:55 GMT, John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:

>none given.now (Joe) wrote:
>
>> Why are there these two very similar solders? Is there any
>> situation where one is better than the other?
>
>Dunno, but... If you do detail work, try water-soluble flux
>solder. You just wipe off the residue for a sparkling clean
>circuit.

And one that makes a great humidity sensor.

John

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is it just me or...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/406a9aeafad00ad9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 1:33 am
From: Robert Baer

Jamie wrote:
> JW wrote:
>
>> So there you are, working on something that you don't have any schematics
>> for; (in this case a Datron 1281 8.5 digit DMM) This one wouldn't power
>> up. Poking around I noticed some (TTL) circuits were not getting +5VDC.
>> Traced it back through a three terminal linear regulator to it's AC
>> input.
>> Hmmm... Only getting about 5.5VAC, not enough there. Isolate the AC
>> output
>> from the transformer to make sure it wasn't a loading issue; it's not.
>> Gets to about 5.8VAC. This unit has two toroid transformers, and the one
>> I've traced the problem to has 8 wires on the secondary and another 8 on
>> the primary (sheesh)
>>
>> I have no idea what the primary voltages should be (As it turns out,
>> about
>> 16VAC. Weird!)
>>
>> BUT, suddenly I hear a metallic sounding "tick!" and the unit begins
>> running. (I quickly measure the primaries and note the voltages JIC.)
>> sounds a bit like a relay, but there's nothing like that in any of the
>> power supplies (there's a number of them) that I can see. Figuring an
>> intermittent somewhere I begin jiggling connectors, tapping around with a
>> screwdriver handle, etc. Nothing. Meter keeps working.
>>
>> Cold blasts from freeze spray, Heat gun, etc. Nothing.
>> Turn it off for an hour and back on repeating what I did above. Still
>> working.
>>
>> Turn it off for a day and back on. Wash, rinse, repeat. still working
>> perfectly.
>>
>> Things like this seem to happen to me often. Is it just me, or do you
>> have
>> faults like this that drive you nuts?
>>
>> I don't suppose anyone might have any schematics for this meter, would
>> they? I think at some point Datron sold off to Wavetek then Fluke
>> ended up
>> with it, as the user manual is available from Fluke.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
> Electrolytics will intermit like this. Change all that are in the power
> supply section.
>
>
Yah, i have run into wierd operation / no operation; back and forth;
more than enough to drive anyone nuts (maybe that is why i am so weird?)_.
At one place i worked, there was this HP programmable automatic
tester, tied to (an added) keypunch for data logging.
Worked for months then stopped working.
Started signal tracing with a VOM starting at the keypunch.
Back in those dayz that is all the was, but i would have chosen to
use a VOM over a DVM so i would not miss data pulses.
Got a few feet from the keypunch solenoids to input connector and
then (no sound) it worked; for weeks.
Next time it failed, i checked the cable from keypunch toward the
ATE, but it immediately started working as i started the cable test AT
the keypunch; worked for weeks.
Next time, i started with the interface circuitry at the ATE; you
guessed it - 15 seconds later it worked; yup! for weeks.
And so on; testing creeping to the middle: the cable.
Never got there; was about two inches away from the cable connector
at the ATE the last time i tested the beast.
Never failed again.

All you can do, is leave the damn thing alone as long as it is
working, ignore the hassles, forget them and go on.
But to keep Mister Justin Case mollified, do not totally forget what
you did so that you can pickup the testing gauntlet where ever you
previously left off.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 3:54 am
From: JW

On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 11:32:59 -0400 Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in Message id:
<oHk%n.13501$0A5.4819@newsfe22.iad>:

>JW wrote:
>
>> So there you are, working on something that you don't have any schematics
>> for; (in this case a Datron 1281 8.5 digit DMM) This one wouldn't power
>> up. Poking around I noticed some (TTL) circuits were not getting +5VDC.
>> Traced it back through a three terminal linear regulator to it's AC input.
>> Hmmm... Only getting about 5.5VAC, not enough there. Isolate the AC output
>> from the transformer to make sure it wasn't a loading issue; it's not.
>> Gets to about 5.8VAC. This unit has two toroid transformers, and the one
>> I've traced the problem to has 8 wires on the secondary and another 8 on
>> the primary (sheesh)
>>
>> I have no idea what the primary voltages should be (As it turns out, about
>> 16VAC. Weird!)
>>
>> BUT, suddenly I hear a metallic sounding "tick!" and the unit begins
>> running. (I quickly measure the primaries and note the voltages JIC.)
>> sounds a bit like a relay, but there's nothing like that in any of the
>> power supplies (there's a number of them) that I can see. Figuring an
>> intermittent somewhere I begin jiggling connectors, tapping around with a
>> screwdriver handle, etc. Nothing. Meter keeps working.
>>
>> Cold blasts from freeze spray, Heat gun, etc. Nothing.
>>
>> Turn it off for an hour and back on repeating what I did above. Still
>> working.
>>
>> Turn it off for a day and back on. Wash, rinse, repeat. still working
>> perfectly.
>>
>> Things like this seem to happen to me often. Is it just me, or do you have
>> faults like this that drive you nuts?
>>
>> I don't suppose anyone might have any schematics for this meter, would
>> they? I think at some point Datron sold off to Wavetek then Fluke ended up
>> with it, as the user manual is available from Fluke.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>Electrolytics will intermit like this. Change all that are in the power
>supply section.

Not the case here, problem lies in the AC somewhere. When the problem was
happening, the AC voltage on the toroids primary was at about 6 volts or
so, when it should have been 16.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:09 am
From: JW

On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 16:18:40 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in Message id:
<i1ko10$bl8$2@reader1.panix.com>:

>In sci.electronics.repair JW <none@dev.null> wrote:
>> So there you are, working on something that you don't have any schematics
>> for; (in this case a Datron 1281 8.5 digit DMM) This one wouldn't power
>> up. Poking around I noticed some (TTL) circuits were not getting +5VDC.
>> Traced it back through a three terminal linear regulator to it's AC input.
>> Hmmm... Only getting about 5.5VAC, not enough there. Isolate the AC output
>> from the transformer to make sure it wasn't a loading issue; it's not.
>> Gets to about 5.8VAC. This unit has two toroid transformers, and the one
>> I've traced the problem to has 8 wires on the secondary and another 8 on
>> the primary (sheesh)
>>
>> I have no idea what the primary voltages should be (As it turns out, about
>> 16VAC. Weird!)
>
>Does this unit use an IEC type power receptable with some sort of voltage
>changing/fuse module that might need to be reseated or checked?

Will check that, thanks. This meter is a bit of a rats nets of wiring,
typical of other British test equipment I've worked on (Wayne Kerr for
example). I hope that Fluke cleaned it up when they took it over...

It is interesting to note that some of the other 5 volt supplies were
working, as well as some of the +-15 volt ones. They may be derived from
the other toroid, though.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to get schematic of Funai TV, Model FT1371?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75b6f935b5d3675?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 2:30 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:d4udncFjzON7FaPRnZ2dnUVZ_sSdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>
>> > We do not keep parts for sets as far back as 2003.
>>
>> That's illegal. Unless Federal law has changed. Which it might have. It
>> used
>> to be 10 years.
>
>
> Funai isn't an American company. A lot of imported crap never had
> repair parts availible in the US. that's one of many reasons why they
> can sell so cheap. :(
>
>
> --
> Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
> have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

And so-called "parts availability laws" are mostly urban legend.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:01 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>> We do not keep parts for sets as far back as 2003.

> That's illegal. Unless Federal law has changed. Which it might have. It used
> to be 10 years.

I don't that statement is true, now or "back then".

I beleive the origins were based on the warranty period claimed, to prevent
lifetime warranties from becoming scams. If someone made a product and gave
a 5 year warranty, "the law" required them to stock parts for that period,
or offer a later replacement model as an exchange.

But there never was any law specifically saying repair parts had to be
stocked and available for 5, 7 or 10 years as most people think.

Whatever laws that were on the books were to prevent companies from making
outlandish claims like a 50 year warranty and then saying 3 years later we
don't have repair parts anymore so those warranties can't be honored.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 6:26 am
From: "David"

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbclobal.net> wrote in
message news:4c3ed52b$0$30334$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
> message
> news:d4udncFjzON7FaPRnZ2dnUVZ_sSdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>
>> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>>
>>> > We do not keep parts for sets as far back as 2003.
>>>
>>> That's illegal. Unless Federal law has changed. Which it
>>> might have. It used
>>> to be 10 years.
>>
>>
>> Funai isn't an American company. A lot of imported
>> crap never had
>> repair parts availible in the US. that's one of many
>> reasons why they
>> can sell so cheap. :(
>>
>>
>> --
>> Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US
>> should have to
>> have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
>
>
> And so-called "parts availability laws" are mostly urban
> legend.
>
> Mark Z.
USA Manufacturers were more willing to stock parts 'back
then'. Some tax laws were changed that caused a tax
liability on stocked parts and tons of stuff went to the
landfills shortly after.

David

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Telephone wiring 101.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d228c87bcf04bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 3:08 am
From: AC Me

On Jul 14, 9:02 pm, "David Farber" <farberbear.uns...@aol.com> wrote:
> I moved into a new house and have new voip phone service via the local cable
> company. The way it's configured is the cable from outside goes into the
> modem, model number Arris TM502G, then the output of the modem, labeled Tel
> 1/2 goes into a telephone line splitter, then the single ended part of that
> splitter, goes into a telephone wall jack which is supposed to feed the rest
> of the house. The third connection of the splitter goes to my Uniden
> portable phone system, model EXAI3428, which I will call system #1. It works
> fine.
>
> To avoid confusion with another Uniden system, a model EXAI5688-3, I'll call
> that system #2. I want to hook up system #2 at a different wall jack in
> another room. When I did, there was no dial tone. System #2 was working last
> week in another home so I am fairly certain that it was ok. I have a
> telephone line polarity checker probably better known as, "The Fox," made by
> Triplett Corporation. The l.e.d. lights up when I plug it into the back of
> the modem. When I remove the telephone line from system #1 and plug in the
> Fox into the splitter, it doesn't light up. I disassembled the wall jack and
> sure enough, if I hook up the red test lead to the green wire and vice-versa
> for the green test lead, the l.e.d. lights up. Question 1, does it make
> sense that system #1 can work if the polarity is reversed? I removed the Fox
> and plugged system #2 in the same jack. System #2 didn't work. Then I
> reversed the red and green wires in the wall jack and tried system #2 in the
> wall jack in the other room. Still no dial tone. So I disassembled the wires
> in that wall jack. The wires were so snug that I could only pull it out from
> the wall about 1 inch. I looked behind the jack and saw that the phone wires
> were the old style red, green, yellow, black wiring. When I reversed the
> wires in the wall jack back in the room where system #1 was, I noticed the
> wires were a white/blue pair. I then plugged the Fox into a jack in a third
> room. The Fox lit up. I plugged in system #2 into the third room and got a
> dial tone. Question #2, is there a way to get the red and green wires in the
> wall jack that isn't working tied into the blue/white pair at the outside
> box? And finally, why does the telephone line splitter reverse the polarity?
> I tried another splitter and it did the same thing.
>
> Thanks for your reply.
> --
> David Farber
> Los Osos, CA

Hi David.

Polarity shouldn't matter, as far as I know. Many telephone leads have
the wires reversed. I discovered this many years ago when trying to
use off-the-shelf telephone leads for a 1-Wire cabling system. 1-Wire
needs 'straight-through' wiring while 'phones seem to work with either
straight-through or crossed. If you look at the 'phone leads that you
have on-hand (e.g. those leads that connect the 'phone to the wall
socket) I would be surprised if some of these were not crossed.
One other point to bear in mind is loading. Each device loads the
telephone network, if I might describe it as such. As far as I know a
standard telephone end-use system is designed to work with a load of
up to four units where a unit is a theoritical 'phone load. Any
individual telephonic device may have a load of several units. For
instance a particular 'phone (perhaps with fax an/or answering
machine) might provide a load of 2 units. The loads of all 'phone type
devices need to be added to get the total load. It is easy to forget
modems in PCs and the like. Just something to bear in mind should you
get your wiring sorted out.

Take care.

Mike

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 7:35 am
From: "David Farber"

AC Me wrote:
> On Jul 14, 9:02 pm, "David Farber" <farberbear.uns...@aol.com> wrote:
>> I moved into a new house and have new voip phone service via the
>> local cable company. The way it's configured is the cable from
>> outside goes into the modem, model number Arris TM502G, then the
>> output of the modem, labeled Tel 1/2 goes into a telephone line
>> splitter, then the single ended part of that splitter, goes into a
>> telephone wall jack which is supposed to feed the rest of the house.
>> The third connection of the splitter goes to my Uniden portable
>> phone system, model EXAI3428, which I will call system #1. It works
>> fine.
>>
>> To avoid confusion with another Uniden system, a model EXAI5688-3,
>> I'll call that system #2. I want to hook up system #2 at a different
>> wall jack in another room. When I did, there was no dial tone.
>> System #2 was working last week in another home so I am fairly
>> certain that it was ok. I have a telephone line polarity checker
>> probably better known as, "The Fox," made by Triplett Corporation.
>> The l.e.d. lights up when I plug it into the back of the modem. When
>> I remove the telephone line from system #1 and plug in the Fox into
>> the splitter, it doesn't light up. I disassembled the wall jack and
>> sure enough, if I hook up the red test lead to the green wire and
>> vice-versa for the green test lead, the l.e.d. lights up. Question
>> 1, does it make sense that system #1 can work if the polarity is
>> reversed? I removed the Fox and plugged system #2 in the same jack.
>> System #2 didn't work. Then I reversed the red and green wires in
>> the wall jack and tried system #2 in the wall jack in the other
>> room. Still no dial tone. So I disassembled the wires in that wall
>> jack. The wires were so snug that I could only pull it out from the
>> wall about 1 inch. I looked behind the jack and saw that the phone
>> wires were the old style red, green, yellow, black wiring. When I
>> reversed the wires in the wall jack back in the room where system #1
>> was, I noticed the wires were a white/blue pair. I then plugged the
>> Fox into a jack in a third room. The Fox lit up. I plugged in system
>> #2 into the third room and got a dial tone. Question #2, is there a
>> way to get the red and green wires in the wall jack that isn't
>> working tied into the blue/white pair at the outside box? And
>> finally, why does the telephone line splitter reverse the polarity?
>> I tried another splitter and it did the same thing.
>>
>> Thanks for your reply.
>> --
>> David Farber
>> Los Osos, CA
>
> Hi David.
>
> Polarity shouldn't matter, as far as I know. Many telephone leads have
> the wires reversed. I discovered this many years ago when trying to
> use off-the-shelf telephone leads for a 1-Wire cabling system. 1-Wire
> needs 'straight-through' wiring while 'phones seem to work with either
> straight-through or crossed. If you look at the 'phone leads that you
> have on-hand (e.g. those leads that connect the 'phone to the wall
> socket) I would be surprised if some of these were not crossed.
> One other point to bear in mind is loading. Each device loads the
> telephone network, if I might describe it as such. As far as I know a
> standard telephone end-use system is designed to work with a load of
> up to four units where a unit is a theoritical 'phone load. Any
> individual telephonic device may have a load of several units. For
> instance a particular 'phone (perhaps with fax an/or answering
> machine) might provide a load of 2 units. The loads of all 'phone type
> devices need to be added to get the total load. It is easy to forget
> modems in PCs and the like. Just something to bear in mind should you
> get your wiring sorted out.
>
> Take care.
>
> Mike

Hi Mike,

As I pointed out, the polarity did matter because system #2 did not work
until I reversed the wires in the phone jack. Regarding the load on the
line, does a portable phone system which has its own power supply place the
same amount of load on the line as a stand-alone telephone?

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Valve/tube, A/R fault
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/51967f830b2ca3c2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 3:20 am
From: "N_Cook"

Well that is what Avo calls it, I've never come across one before. ECC83
with curious cyclic swirling breaking-surf whitish-noise and clicks.
Putting on Avo 160 tester showed <>short in A/R setting, I've never had
before, A/R here stands for cold checking Anodes To Remaining electrodes.
DVM cold resistance checking pin to pin showed about 9K between an anode and
its grid. I will replace it but is there any point in blasting with some
high voltage to vaporize whatever is bridging, for a known
unreliable/short-term spare. I'm aware that a valve with leaky C to H, then
running the valve with 10 or 12V on the heaters insted of 6.3V so they glow
like bulbs for a few seconds, will knock back the bridging deposit for a few
months or even years.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PowerWare 9110 UPS schematic??
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b7a20f044b334c4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 4:35 am
From: "Jack"

I have this UPS that had dead batteries, so I put in fresh new one's all
charged up.
I plugged it in and red ALARM led lights up, the fan turns on and batteries
are being charged up, but it will not turn on, nothing comes out of the
outlets.
All fuses are OK, nothing appears to be burned.

Anyone got any idea of what to do next or anyone have schematic?

-Jan
Finland

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 4:41 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jack <jankroPOISTA@dnainternet.net> wrote in message
news:i1mrpn$1l6u$1@adenine.netfront.net...
> I have this UPS that had dead batteries, so I put in fresh new one's all
> charged up.
> I plugged it in and red ALARM led lights up, the fan turns on and
batteries
> are being charged up, but it will not turn on, nothing comes out of the
> outlets.
> All fuses are OK, nothing appears to be burned.
>
> Anyone got any idea of what to do next or anyone have schematic?
>
> -Jan
> Finland
>
>
>
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

A "factory reset" required ?

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:42 am
From: "Jack"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i1ms45$3ta$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Jack <jankroPOISTA@dnainternet.net> wrote in message
> news:i1mrpn$1l6u$1@adenine.netfront.net...
>> I have this UPS that had dead batteries, so I put in fresh new one's all
>> charged up.
>> I plugged it in and red ALARM led lights up, the fan turns on and
> batteries
>> are being charged up, but it will not turn on, nothing comes out of the
>> outlets.
>> All fuses are OK, nothing appears to be burned.
>>
>> Anyone got any idea of what to do next or anyone have schematic?
>>
>> -Jan
>> Finland
>>
>>
>>
>> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
>
>
> A "factory reset" required ?
>
>
How can I do that?

-Jan

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: See Hot College Girls Latest Sex Videos.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ea55f12a21551450?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 5:17 am
From: masti dunia

See Hot College Girls Latest Sex Videos. At http://beatifulcollegegirls.tk

Due to high sex content, i have hidden the videos in an image. in
that
website on Top Side search box Above click on image and watch
videos in all angles. please don,t tell to anyone.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple Hack To Get $2000 To Your PayPal Account
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9866607c24d9a7ba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 6:19 am
From: jolie

Simple Hack To Get $2000 To Your PayPal Account At http://easyhappydays.tk

Due to high security risks, i have hidden the PayPal Form link in an
image. in that website On Top Side Above search box , click on image
and enter your PayPal id And Your name. please don,t tell to any
One.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Diode symbol confusion
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c797e2c1bcaa92d5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 6:36 am
From: "N_Cook"

on one schematic
If a straight bar of cathode and triangle represent a signal diode
Same with a small return towards the triangle from the bar represents a
zener diode
What does the symbol mean with 2 barbs to the bar , one towards the anode
and the other in the other direction.
In the context of the circuit it could mean high speed or shottke , either
or both? just in passing, if anyone happens to know.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 6:42 am
From: JW

On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 14:36:00 +0100 "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in
Message id: <i1n2qo$vn4$1@news.eternal-september.org>:

>on one schematic
>If a straight bar of cathode and triangle represent a signal diode
>Same with a small return towards the triangle from the bar represents a
>zener diode
>What does the symbol mean with 2 barbs to the bar , one towards the anode
>and the other in the other direction.
>In the context of the circuit it could mean high speed or shottke , either
>or both? just in passing, if anyone happens to know.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schottky_diode

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 7:14 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> What does the symbol mean with 2 barbs to the bar...?

It's supposed to look something like the letter Z -- hence, a Zener diode.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 7:34 am
From: "N_Cook"

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i1n54b$9pf$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > What does the symbol mean with 2 barbs to the bar...?
>
> It's supposed to look something like the letter Z -- hence, a Zener diode.
>
>

That is logical and my experience too but not in this case , hence the
query.
One barb represents zeners in the symbol set used on this schematic, so what
does the 2 barb (normally zener) symbol mean here?

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 15 2010 8:02 am
From: "ian field"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i1n67v$efi$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:i1n54b$9pf$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> > What does the symbol mean with 2 barbs to the bar...?
>>
>> It's supposed to look something like the letter Z -- hence, a Zener
>> diode.
>>
>>
>
> That is logical and my experience too but not in this case , hence the
> query.
> One barb represents zeners in the symbol set used on this schematic, so
> what
> does the 2 barb (normally zener) symbol mean here?

The various typefaces used by the many people who produce schematics add to
the confusion and some use (often inaccurate) variations of the standard
symbols making matters even worse.

There are of course yet more different types of diode, some of which also
have their own symbol (and variants).

As to answer your original question, it would be hard to improve on the
links JW posted.

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en