sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder - 18 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
* Weird telephone problem - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b67728e19c05524?hl=en
* Cheap Wholesale Adidas Jacket - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc45192d3115ff98?hl=en
* Valentino Bags china supplier (http://www.jialiuonline.com - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca186070832659ae?hl=en
* Microwave advice - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf0cdf1a15cc7e64?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:29 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1td8b$gv3$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> I wasn't mislead. Given the differenc in price, it was obvious it wasn't
> Kester.

But it was, grasshopper. You paid too much, because you bought it from a
hobby supplier.

== 2 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 4:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
> sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
> EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
> formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.

Fascinating. Perhaps someone, somewhere will have an explanation.

== 3 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 4:50 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> I wasn't mislead. Given the differenc in price, it was obvious
>> it wasn't Kester.

> But it was, grasshopper. You paid too much, because you
> bought it from a hobby supplier.

Actually, I bought the solder at least 20 years ago, and I believe it came
from an electronics-supply store, not a "hobby supplier". I also paid less
than $10.

== 4 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 9:28 am
From: Jim Yanik

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
news:i1upmh$14a$1@news.eternal-september.org:

>> AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
>> sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
>> EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
>> formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.
>
> Fascinating. Perhaps someone, somewhere will have an explanation.
>
>
>

different businesses mark up at different prices.
name brands often go at higher rates,and less popular items may get priced
lower to move them.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 5 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 10:41 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <Xns9DB97EF26DC04jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44>,
Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:

> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
> news:i1upmh$14a$1@news.eternal-september.org:
>
> >> AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
> >> sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
> >> EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
> >> formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.
> >
> > Fascinating. Perhaps someone, somewhere will have an explanation.
> >
> >
> >
>
> different businesses mark up at different prices.
> name brands often go at higher rates,and less popular items may get priced
> lower to move them.

As a side note, the wholesale pricing of solder also seems to be heavily
volume driven. A small distributor to hobbyists might buy a couple of
hundred pounds at a time, while a large industrial distributor buys tens
of thousands. They get a huge discount for that, and can easily pass
that savings on to their customers.

== 6 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 10:58 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> As a side note, the wholesale pricing of solder also seems to be
> heavily volume-driven. A small distributor to hobbyists might buy
> a couple of hundred pounds at a time, while a large industrial
> distributor buys tens of thousands. They get a huge discount for
> that, and can easily pass that savings on to their customers.

But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such a
wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.

== 7 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:09 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

William Sommerwerck wrote:

> But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such a
> wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.

Because 60/40 is just solder, while 63/37 solder is an allowed under special
circumstances lead-free replacement and needs certification?

I know it's not lead free, but it's the solder you use when you have to
use leaded solder under lead free regulations.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

== 8 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:17 am
From: Phil Hobbs

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder>
>>> This got my attention:
>>> Some alloys, namely of lead and to some degree tin, contain small
>>> but significant amounts of radioisotope impurities. The
>>> radioisotopes undergoing alpha decay are a concern due to their
>>> tendency to cause soft errors. Polonium-210 is especially
>>> problematic; lead-210 beta decays to bismuth-210 which then beta
>>> decays to polonium-210, an intense emitter of alpha particles.
>>> Uranium-238 and thorium-232 are other significant contaminants of
>>> lead containing alloys.
>>> Oh swell.... something else to worry about.
>
>> sounds like bullshit, alpha particles aren't energetic enough to get
>> even 1/10 of the way through the encapsulation on a RAM chip.
>
> Correct. The original writer was probably confused by the fact that the
> materials ceramic ICs are made of can contain radioactive materials that can
> cause errors.
>
>
No, the alphas from lead are a real problem. Ten years ago, there were
folks going round to churches with lead roofs, offering them a new lead
roof in exchange for their old--and now low-alpha--lead ones.

Same with steel from old battleships.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

== 9 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:37 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1vfd1$o0l$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> > As a side note, the wholesale pricing of solder also seems to be
> > heavily volume-driven. A small distributor to hobbyists might buy
> > a couple of hundred pounds at a time, while a large industrial
> > distributor buys tens of thousands. They get a huge discount for
> > that, and can easily pass that savings on to their customers.
>
> But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such a
> wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.

At the risk of misunderstanding you yet again, and mis-responding,
here's my shot at that:

Smaller distributors play on the "new and improved" perception that
someone up-thread mentioned, so they mark up the 63/37 more.

Larger industrial distributors play it a little straighter, with more
equal markups. But my side note could actually play into this, too: If
my supplier sells 10 times as much 63/37 as he does 60/40, then he
obviously buys 10 times as much, so Kester gives him a better price
break.

== 10 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:39 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <slrni46gn9.irp.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> > But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such a
> > wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.
>
> Because 60/40 is just solder, while 63/37 solder is an allowed under special
> circumstances lead-free replacement and needs certification?
>
> I know it's not lead free, but it's the solder you use when you have to
> use leaded solder under lead free regulations.
>
> Geoff.

Must be cocktail hour where you are, Geoff. Either that or I'm still
hungover and don't know it.

== 11 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:43 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such
>> a wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.

> Because 60/40 is just solder, while 63/37 solder is an allowed under
> special circumstances lead-free replacement and needs certification?
> I know it's not lead free, but it's the solder you use when you have to
> use leaded solder under lead free regulations.

The difference existed at least 30 years ago, when I bought my first roll of
eutectic.

== 12 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:44 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Correct. The original writer was probably confused by the
>> fact that the materials ceramic ICs are made of can contain
>> radioactive materials that can cause errors.

> No, the alphas from lead are a real problem. Ten years ago, there were
> folks going round to churches with lead roofs, offering them a new lead
> roof in exchange for their old--and now low-alpha--lead ones.

But where is the lead /within/ ICs? (The wires are bonded, not soldered.)
Alpha particles have poor penetrating power.

== 13 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> But we still don't have an answer to the question of why there is such
>> a wide disparity in the /relative/ pricing of 60/40 and eutectic solders.

> At the risk of misunderstanding you yet again, and mis-responding,
> here's my shot at that:
> Smaller distributors play on the "new and improved" perception that
> someone up-thread mentioned, so they mark up the 63/37 more.

No, you're not misunderstanding, and what you say is logical. But... This
disparity existed 30 years ago, when I first bought a roll of eutectic
solder. At that time, eutectic was less-common and less asked-for. That
/might/ explain the difference.

== 14 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:52 am
From: Spehro Pefhany

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:28:06 -0500, the renowned Jim Yanik
<jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:

>"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
>news:i1upmh$14a$1@news.eternal-september.org:
>
>>> AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
>>> sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
>>> EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
>>> formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.
>>
>> Fascinating. Perhaps someone, somewhere will have an explanation.
>>
>>
>>
>
>different businesses mark up at different prices.
>name brands often go at higher rates,and less popular items may get priced
>lower to move them.

Solder prices for single pound lots are all over the map- they change
with voltatile metal prices and some distributors may have old stock.

http://www.lme.com/tin_graphs.asp
http://www.lme.com/lead_graphs.asp

There's been roughly a 4:1 price range in lead and 2.5:1 in tin over
the past three years. Currently tin costs about 10x as much as lead,
so you'd expect about a 10-11% price difference due to cost of the
metals. At current prices there's around $5.30 worth of metals in a
pound of solder, of which only 30 cents or so is lead. There's also
the plastic spool, the cardboard box and 10-15 grams of flux.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

== 15 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 11:59 am
From: "tm"

"Spehro Pefhany" <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message
news:b7i646p44pljor9299tidign5411gmnv6v@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:28:06 -0500, the renowned Jim Yanik
> <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:
>
>>"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in
>>news:i1upmh$14a$1@news.eternal-september.org:
>>
>>>> AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
>>>> sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
>>>> EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
>>>> formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.
>>>
>>> Fascinating. Perhaps someone, somewhere will have an explanation.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>different businesses mark up at different prices.
>>name brands often go at higher rates,and less popular items may get priced
>>lower to move them.
>
> Solder prices for single pound lots are all over the map- they change
> with voltatile metal prices and some distributors may have old stock.
>
> http://www.lme.com/tin_graphs.asp
> http://www.lme.com/lead_graphs.asp
>
> There's been roughly a 4:1 price range in lead and 2.5:1 in tin over
> the past three years. Currently tin costs about 10x as much as lead,
> so you'd expect about a 10-11% price difference due to cost of the
> metals. At current prices there's around $5.30 worth of metals in a
> pound of solder, of which only 30 cents or so is lead. There's also
> the plastic spool, the cardboard box and 10-15 grams of flux.
>
>
And then there is the shipping.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 16 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:18 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <b7i646p44pljor9299tidign5411gmnv6v@4ax.com>,
Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

> At current prices there's around $5.30 worth of metals in a
> pound of solder,

No wonder I haven't seen those $4.95/lb. bar solder sales lately. I used
to wait for those and stock up a couple hundred pounds for the soldering
machine.

== 17 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:52 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> There's been roughly a 4:1 price range in lead and 2.5:1 in tin
> over the past three years. Currently tin costs about 10x as
> much as lead, so you'd expect about a 10-11% price difference
> due to cost of the metals. At current prices there's around $5.30
> worth of metals in a pound of solder, of which only 30 cents or
> so is lead. There's also the plastic spool, the cardboard box
> and 10-15 grams of flux.

The fog is lifting...

== 18 of 18 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 2:14 pm
From: John Fields

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:44:51 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> Correct. The original writer was probably confused by the
>>> fact that the materials ceramic ICs are made of can contain
>>> radioactive materials that can cause errors.
>
>> No, the alphas from lead are a real problem. Ten years ago, there were
>> folks going round to churches with lead roofs, offering them a new lead
>> roof in exchange for their old--and now low-alpha--lead ones.
>
>But where is the lead /within/ ICs? (The wires are bonded, not soldered.)
>Alpha particles have poor penetrating power.

---
In the lead frame? ;)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Weird telephone problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b67728e19c05524?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 5:46 am
From: Andrew Rossmann

In article <4c40d4c0$0$2401$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
nobody@but.us.chickens says...
>
> (And by telephone I mean the kind God intended us to use, a regular old
> land line, not those Dick Tracy cell-phone thingies.)
>
> Client has a bunch of phones in their house. Starting a few days ago,
> several of them don't work; pick them up, no dial tone. (Confirmed with
> a good set which I used to test all the jacks.)
>
> But get this: while I was there, at least one of the phones that doesn't
> work (a wireless phone) rang on an incoming call. WTF?!?!? It rang, but
> when picked up--nothing, dead. No dial tone trying to make a call.
>
> Anyone familiar with the inner mysteries of the telephone system care to
> try to 'splain this? How could a phone not work, but still ring on an
> incoming call?

You didn't mention this: What happens if you move a non-working phone to
where a working phone is? Does it now work? If so, then it's a wiring
issue. Otherwise, it's the phone itself.

Also, if you have the newer interface where the phone company connects
to the house that has RJ jacks in it, take all of the phones to it and
test them with that jack.

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.comcast.net/~andyross

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:11 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 7/18/2010 5:46 AM Andrew Rossmann spake thus:

> In article <4c40d4c0$0$2401$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
> nobody@but.us.chickens says...
>>
>> (And by telephone I mean the kind God intended us to use, a regular old
>> land line, not those Dick Tracy cell-phone thingies.)
>>
>> Client has a bunch of phones in their house. Starting a few days ago,
>> several of them don't work; pick them up, no dial tone. (Confirmed with
>> a good set which I used to test all the jacks.)
>>
>> But get this: while I was there, at least one of the phones that doesn't
>> work (a wireless phone) rang on an incoming call. WTF?!?!? It rang, but
>> when picked up--nothing, dead. No dial tone trying to make a call.
>>
>> Anyone familiar with the inner mysteries of the telephone system care to
>> try to 'splain this? How could a phone not work, but still ring on an
>> incoming call?
>
> You didn't mention this: What happens if you move a non-working phone to
> where a working phone is? Does it now work? If so, then it's a wiring
> issue. Otherwise, it's the phone itself.

Well, I didn't test that, but I did the reverse test which shows that
the problem is the wiring, not the phone: I took a working phone (a
regular, non-cordless phone) and plugged it in to a non-working phone
jack. It was dead, so the problem appears to me to be the wiring.

The phone that rang on an incoming call, by the way, was a cordless
(i.e., powered) phone, which tends to confirm the diagnosis someone else
here gave of a "DC open", a corroded connection that would pass enough
of the higher ring voltage to make the phone ring, but not enough to go
"off hook".

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 2:08 pm
From: nesesu

On Jul 18, 12:11 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> On 7/18/2010 5:46 AM Andrew Rossmann spake thus:
>
>
>
>
>
> > In article <4c40d4c0$0$2401$82264...@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
> > nob...@but.us.chickens says...
>
> >> (And by telephone I mean the kind God intended us to use, a regular old
> >> land line, not those Dick Tracy cell-phone thingies.)
>
> >> Client has a bunch of phones in their house. Starting a few days ago,
> >> several of them don't work; pick them up, no dial tone. (Confirmed with
> >> a good set which I used to test all the jacks.)
>
> >> But get this: while I was there, at least one of the phones that doesn't
> >> work (a wireless phone) rang on an incoming call. WTF?!?!? It rang, but
> >> when picked up--nothing, dead. No dial tone trying to make a call.
>
> >> Anyone familiar with the inner mysteries of the telephone system care to
> >> try to 'splain this? How could a phone not work, but still ring on an
> >> incoming call?
>
> > You didn't mention this: What happens if you move a non-working phone to
> > where a working phone is? Does it now work? If so, then it's a wiring
> > issue. Otherwise, it's the phone itself.
>
> Well, I didn't test that, but I did the reverse test which shows that
> the problem is the wiring, not the phone: I took a working phone (a
> regular, non-cordless phone) and plugged it in to a non-working phone
> jack. It was dead, so the problem appears to me to be the wiring.
>
> The phone that rang on an incoming call, by the way, was a cordless
> (i.e., powered) phone, which tends to confirm the diagnosis someone else
> here gave of a "DC open", a corroded connection that would pass enough
> of the higher ring voltage to make the phone ring, but not enough to go
> "off hook".
>
> --
> The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
> with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
>
> - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

There is probably a break in L1 or L2 at a daisy chained jack. Down
stream of the break, there is no DC path for loop current to trigger
dial tone, BUT, since the ringer is AC, there can be a path back
through the ringer of a phone bridging the break [effectively two
phones in series] so the phone could ring, but not close the DC loop
when taken off hook.

Neil S.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Wholesale Adidas Jacket
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc45192d3115ff98?hl=en
==============================================================================

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TOPIC: Valentino Bags china supplier (http://www.jialiuonline.com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca186070832659ae?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Microwave advice
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf0cdf1a15cc7e64?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 3:44 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

"Mr. Land" <graftonfot@yahoo.com> writes:

> OK, I see there is a long history of microwave over repair questions.
> But I don't seem to see a thread that has my question:
>
> So I have an older GE JVM1190 over-the-stove microwave unit.
>
> Symptom is no heat.
>
> When powered up and programmed to cook, the unit makes the expected
> humming noise (the same it's always made) but a cup of water in the
> chamber will not heat up.
>
> I've studied the microwave FAQ repeatedly and I believe I understand
> the dangers.
>
> I constructed a long wooden-stick-based discharger for the HV cap,
> discharged it (didn't get any spark at all), then ensured there was no
> residual voltage on either of its terminals. Then I shorted the
> terminals.
>
> First I "tested" the magnetron: infinite resistance from either
> cathode connection pin to ground, very low resistance between the two
> pins themselves. Seems OK.
>
> Then I tested the HV diode by placing it series with a 390 ohm
> resistor and applying 15 VDC, and meauring the voltage drop across the
> device. -15V negative biased, about 10 VDC forward biased...this
> seemed to be within range.
>
> Finally I tested the HV cap. It reads infinite resistance to the
> chassis from either terminal. Between the terminals my capacitance
> meters reads around 0.86 uF... which seems to be correct.
>
> I've heard mention of a possibly bad HV fuse. AFAICT, this unit
> doesn't have one of those.
>
> So...the HV cap seems good, the mag seems good, the diode seems good,
> the unit seems to draw appropriate current when in cook mode,yet the
> over won't heat food.
>
> What am I missing???
>
> Could the magnetron still be "bad" despite the fact that it doesn't
> read shorted/open?

As someone else suggested, double check the continuity of the filament
circuit - transformer and magnetron. Since that's high current bad
connections are quite possible.

However, the unit would draw less AC current if the magnetron was not
getting filament power.

But yes, everything could seem to check out but the magnetron could still be
bad.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 4:34 pm
From: mike

Mr. Land wrote:
> OK, I see there is a long history of microwave over repair questions.
> But I don't seem to see a thread that has my question:
>
> So I have an older GE JVM1190 over-the-stove microwave unit.
>
> Symptom is no heat.
>
> When powered up and programmed to cook, the unit makes the expected
> humming noise (the same it's always made) but a cup of water in the
> chamber will not heat up.
>
> I've studied the microwave FAQ repeatedly and I believe I understand
> the dangers.
>
> I constructed a long wooden-stick-based discharger for the HV cap,
> discharged it (didn't get any spark at all), then ensured there was no
> residual voltage on either of its terminals. Then I shorted the
> terminals.
>
> First I "tested" the magnetron: infinite resistance from either
> cathode connection pin to ground, very low resistance between the two
> pins themselves. Seems OK.
>
> Then I tested the HV diode by placing it series with a 390 ohm
> resistor and applying 15 VDC, and meauring the voltage drop across the
> device. -15V negative biased, about 10 VDC forward biased...this
> seemed to be within range.
>
> Finally I tested the HV cap. It reads infinite resistance to the
> chassis from either terminal. Between the terminals my capacitance
> meters reads around 0.86 uF... which seems to be correct.
>
> I've heard mention of a possibly bad HV fuse. AFAICT, this unit
> doesn't have one of those.
>
> So...the HV cap seems good, the mag seems good, the diode seems good,
> the unit seems to draw appropriate current when in cook mode,yet the
> over won't heat food.
>
> What am I missing???
>
> Could the magnetron still be "bad" despite the fact that it doesn't
> read shorted/open?
>
> Thanks.
I just fixed mine.
The push-on wire connection to the interlock switch had developed
some resistance, melted the wire and trashed the connector.
Had the same problem at the wire from the power cord to the main switch.
It hadn't failed...yet...

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