sci.electronics.repair - 19 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 60/40 vs. 63/37 Solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4620260930cd06a7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 12:06 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>> To compare apples to apples, I called my supplier yesterday for
>>> current pricing: 63/37, $13.80/lb. 60/40, $13.30/lb. I also asked
>>> how many people were buying 60/40, and she confirmed that
>>> well over 90% of customers use 63/37.

>> Fascinating. It raises the question of why there is such a huge
>> difference in the pricing of Kester's solders.

> If you're referring to widely different prices from different suppliers,
> it's the same with any product or service, of course. When the 99%
> isopropyl topic come up, I plugged it into google's "shopping" tab.
> Prices ranged from 2.79 to 14.50 for a pint of the stuff.

That isn't what I meant. There's a 20% difference in the price between
Kester's 60/40 and 63/37 solders.

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 12:48 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1sv01$oqv$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> >>> To compare apples to apples, I called my supplier yesterday for
> >>> current pricing: 63/37, $13.80/lb. 60/40, $13.30/lb. I also asked
> >>> how many people were buying 60/40, and she confirmed that
> >>> well over 90% of customers use 63/37.
>
> >> Fascinating. It raises the question of why there is such a huge
> >> difference in the pricing of Kester's solders.
>
> > If you're referring to widely different prices from different suppliers,
> > it's the same with any product or service, of course. When the 99%
> > isopropyl topic come up, I plugged it into google's "shopping" tab.
> > Prices ranged from 2.79 to 14.50 for a pint of the stuff.
>
> That isn't what I meant. There's a 20% difference in the price between
> Kester's 60/40 and 63/37 solders.

Oh, so you didn't read my post after all. To reiterate, 63/37 is 13.80,
60/40 is 13.30. That's uh, let's see, oh yeah, less than 4%.

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 1:59 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-D3E215.12482717072010@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <i1sv01$oqv$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>>>> To compare apples to apples, I called my supplier yesterday for
>>>>> current pricing: 63/37, $13.80/lb. 60/40, $13.30/lb. I also asked
>>>>> how many people were buying 60/40, and she confirmed that
>>>>> well over 90% of customers use 63/37.

>>>> Fascinating. It raises the question of why there is such a huge
>>>> difference in the pricing of Kester's solders.

>>> If you're referring to widely different prices from different suppliers,
>>> it's the same with any product or service, of course. When the 99%
>>> isopropyl topic come up, I plugged it into google's "shopping" tab.
>>> Prices ranged from 2.79 to 14.50 for a pint of the stuff.

>> That isn't what I meant. There's a 20% difference in the price between
>> Kester's 60/40 and 63/37 solders.

> Oh, so you didn't read my post after all. To reiterate, 63/37 is 13.80,
> 60/40 is 13.30. That's uh, let's see, oh yeah, less than 4%.

<GASP!>

Yes, I DID read your post, and Yes, I did understand exactly what you said.
To wit... that there was almost no difference in the prices of the 60/40 and
63/37 solders from your supplier. That's why I raised the question about why
there WAS such a large difference between Kester's solders.

I think it was plain from what I wrote that I was wondering why there was
almost no difference in your supplier's prices for solders from (presumably)
the same manufacturer, while Kester solders had a 20% difference. (See
above.) Must /everything/ be explained in excruciating detail five times
over?

This happens over and over and over and over and over and over and over and
over, and not just to me. It's because people don't read carefully, then
think about what they've read. Believe me, I sometimes am about to respond
to a post, then discover I'm mis-understood it.

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 3:26 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <i1t5jq$k2f$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> Oh, so you didn't read my post after all. To reiterate, 63/37 is 13.80,
>> 60/40 is 13.30. That's uh, let's see, oh yeah, less than 4%.
>
><GASP!>
>
>Yes, I DID read your post, and Yes, I did understand exactly what you said.
>To wit... that there was almost no difference in the prices of the 60/40 and
>63/37 solders from your supplier. That's why I raised the question about why
>there WAS such a large difference between Kester's solders.
>
>I think it was plain from what I wrote that I was wondering why there was
>almost no difference in your supplier's prices for solders from (presumably)
>the same manufacturer, while Kester solders had a 20% difference. (See
>above.) Must /everything/ be explained in excruciating detail five times
>over?

I think you may have conflated two different issues here, when
comparing 60/40 and 63/37. One is the question of manufacture, one is
the question of distribution channel (hobby/retail vs. industrial).

I just did a lookup on Newark's website, comparing 23 AWG solders
manufactured by Kester. Take a look at the catalog page at

http://www.newark.com/jsp/content/printCatalog.jsp?display=single&cat=c127&page=2016

and the section on "44 series RA rosin core solder". They have both
63/37 and 60/40 alloy versions of many of the same sizes.

For the thinner-gauge varities, the prices for the two alloys seem to
be quite close... e.g. for 25-gauge, the 60/40 is $34.15 and the 63/37
is $34.72 (about 1%). 21-gauge is $24.54 and $25.17 (about 2%),
18-gauge is $22.80 and $24.77 respectively (about 9%).

The only really big disparity in favor of 60/40 is in the heavy
16-gauge size ($23.20 and $32.53 respectively). Perhaps this reflects
the fact that 16-gauge is used less commonly these days, or perhaps
Newark is just low in stock?

So... based on this evidence, it looks to me as if Kester does not
necessarily have a major price skew between the two alloys, at least
not in the gauges typically used for PC board assembly. This suggests
that the price disparity you cited, may have much more to do with the
pricing policies of the one retailer you mentioned (MCM) than they do
with the manufacturer's wholesale price. MCM might be pricing the
63/37 as a "premium" product, or perhaps they sell less of it and so
tend to amortize the per-SKU overhead costs over a smaller nmber of
units?

>This happens over and over and over and over and over and over and over and
>over, and not just to me. It's because people don't read carefully, then
>think about what they've read. Believe me, I sometimes am about to respond
>to a post, then discover I'm mis-understood it.

Yup. Happens to me too. As a language, English has enough room for
ambiguity and misunderstanding to make life interesting at times.

FYI, when one of the earlier posters said he'd checked solder prices
"from his supplier", I don't think he stated a brand at all... and yet
your reply seems to have assumed that he was *not* referring to
Kester. If you did assume that (and I'm only sorta assuming that you
assumed it :-) it might have misled you a bit.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 3:31 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <i1s9gn$fbc$1@reversiblemaps.ath.cx>,
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

>sounds like bullshit, alpha particles aren't energetic enough to get
>even 1/10 of the way through the encapsulation on a RAM chip.

There were some problems with first-generation DRAM chips back in the
late 1970s, which were attributed to alpha-particle upsets due to
radio-isotopes in the encapsulating materials.

Cite: http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/freeabs_all.jsp?arnumber=1479948

Not having read the article I don't know how close to the silicon it
was necessary for the radioisotope in question to be, in order for the
resulting alpha particle to disrupt the chip's operation.

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 4:09 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I think you may have conflated two different issues here, when
> comparing 60/40 and 63/37. One is the question of manufacture, one is
> the question of distribution channel (hobby/retail vs. industrial).

I didn't conflate the issues, as the latter hadn't been raised when I first
brought up the point.

> So... based on this evidence, it looks to me as if Kester does not
> necessarily have a major price skew between the two alloys, at least
> not in the gauges typically used for PC board assembly.

It does in the case of the MCM catalog, at least for the gauge I looked at.
Other companies show similar huge disparities. It makes little sense, when
the ones you (and Smitty) cited are so close.

> FYI, when one of the earlier posters said he'd checked solder prices
> "from his supplier", I don't think he stated a brand at all... and yet
> your reply seems to have assumed that he was *not* referring to
> Kester. If you did assume that (and I'm only sorta assuming that you
> assumed it :-) it might have misled you a bit.

I wasn't mislead. Given the differenc in price, it was obvious it wasn't
Kester.

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 8:46 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Jul 15, 10:31 am, "Robbie Hatley" <see.my....@for.my.contact.info>
wrote:
> "Joe" wrote:
> > I wonder if ... 60/40 might ever be better to use.
>
> No.
>
> For hand soldering, I recommend Sn63Pb37 wire solder with an activated
> rosin flux core. Use thin solder, about 23AWG; it melts the faster, for less
> chance of cold joints. For surface mount, use even thinner, about 28AWG.
>
> Avoid organic or water-soluable flux unless you're going to wash the board
> thoroughly after soldering.
>
> Rosin flux can be removed with 99pct isopropyl alcohol ($1 a bottle
at your
> corner drug store). But frankly, I recommend NOT removing the
rosin flux
> scum. Leave it on; it's inert, airproof, waterproof, sweatproof,
so it protects
> the joint.
>
> --
> Been soldering stuff since 1973,
> Robbie Hatley
> lonewolf [[at]] well [[dot]] com

If the flux burns it becomes conductive and WILL mess up CMOS modestly
high impedance nodes. That's why i clean it off.

G²

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 10:47 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:14:45 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> >> I have some rolls of solder around the shop that are not well labeled
> >> or identified. Rather than risk leaving corrosive flux on a board, I
> >> prefer to clean most everything.
>
> > I just tossed solder like that into my solder pot.
>
> Right. Great idea. I did that once and regretted it. I tossed most
> of a 1 lb roll of Ersin 362 (62/38) rosin core solder into the wire
> lead tinning solder pot. The roll had gotten splattered with acid and
> was leaking flux. The result was a large cloud of noxious smog, as
> all the rosin simultaneously went up in smoke. You've seen the smoke
> produced during soldering. Now multiply that by a few thousand times.
> If it had set off the smoke alarm, I would have really been in
> trouble. I don't know the correct way to recycle and remelt old
> solder. Whatever it is, should probably be done outdoors.

I would NEVER add a pound of solder to an existing solder pot at one
time. When I bought my 6" diameter solder pot I had enough used solder
to more than fill it. It came from the use of a smaller solder pot to
salvage ICs from scrap PC boards. Float the board, then tap the corner
of the solder pot. A bunch of solder balls hit the aluminum plate the
pot was on. I would use a large pair of channel lock pliers to pick up
the hot pot to pour out some solder into a small aluminum pan, then dump
all the loose solder into the pot.

Solder pots are required to have an exhaust fan, in industrial
settings in my area.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:27 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1t5jq$k2f$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> "Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:prestwhich-D3E215.12482717072010@news.eternal-september.org...
> > In article <i1sv01$oqv$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> > "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>>>> To compare apples to apples, I called my supplier yesterday for
> >>>>> current pricing: 63/37, $13.80/lb. 60/40, $13.30/lb. I also asked
> >>>>> how many people were buying 60/40, and she confirmed that
> >>>>> well over 90% of customers use 63/37.
>
> >>>> Fascinating. It raises the question of why there is such a huge
> >>>> difference in the pricing of Kester's solders.
>
> >>> If you're referring to widely different prices from different suppliers,
> >>> it's the same with any product or service, of course. When the 99%
> >>> isopropyl topic come up, I plugged it into google's "shopping" tab.
> >>> Prices ranged from 2.79 to 14.50 for a pint of the stuff.
>
> >> That isn't what I meant. There's a 20% difference in the price between
> >> Kester's 60/40 and 63/37 solders.
>
> > Oh, so you didn't read my post after all. To reiterate, 63/37 is 13.80,
> > 60/40 is 13.30. That's uh, let's see, oh yeah, less than 4%.
>
> <GASP!>
>
> Yes, I DID read your post, and Yes, I did understand exactly what you said.
> To wit... that there was almost no difference in the prices of the 60/40 and
> 63/37 solders from your supplier. That's why I raised the question about why
> there WAS such a large difference between Kester's solders.
>
> I think it was plain from what I wrote that I was wondering why there was
> almost no difference in your supplier's prices for solders from (presumably)
> the same manufacturer, while Kester solders had a 20% difference. (See
> above.) Must /everything/ be explained in excruciating detail five times
> over?
>
> This happens over and over and over and over and over and over and over and
> over, and not just to me. It's because people don't read carefully, then
> think about what they've read. Believe me, I sometimes am about to respond
> to a post, then discover I'm mis-understood it.

AH-SO! At last we're communicating. Yep, usenet is tough that way
sometimes. Here's the missing piece: The solder I buy IS KESTER. The
EXACT same stuff that you buy. Only two differences: The disparity in
formulations is less, and the price is roughly half.

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 18 2010 12:29 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <i1td8b$gv3$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> I wasn't mislead. Given the differenc in price, it was obvious it wasn't
> Kester.

But it was, grasshopper. You paid too much, because you bought it from a
hobby supplier.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Microwave advice
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf0cdf1a15cc7e64?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 2:14 pm
From: Jeroni Paul

I was once in a similar trouble and it turned out that the press fit
connectors to the magnetron were somewhat oxidized and did not make
proper contact. I could not see oxide but I was measuring a few ohms
of resistance in the contact. I cleaned both surfaces and it worked
again.

On 16 Jul, 23:47, "Mr. Land" <grafton...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK, I see there is a long history of microwave over repair questions.
> But I don't seem to see a thread that has my question:
>
> So I have an older GE JVM1190 over-the-stove microwave unit.
>
> Symptom is no heat.
>
> When powered up and programmed to cook, the unit makes the expected
> humming noise (the same it's always made) but a cup of water in the
> chamber will not heat up.
>
> I've studied the microwave FAQ repeatedly and I believe I understand
> the dangers.
>
> I constructed a long wooden-stick-based discharger for the HV cap,
> discharged it (didn't get any spark at all), then ensured there was no
> residual voltage on either of its terminals. Then I shorted the
> terminals.
>
> First I "tested" the magnetron: infinite resistance from either
> cathode connection pin to ground, very low resistance between the two
> pins themselves. Seems OK.
>
> Then I tested the HV diode by placing it series with a 390 ohm
> resistor and applying 15 VDC, and meauring the voltage drop across the
> device. -15V negative biased, about 10 VDC forward biased...this
> seemed to be within range.
>
> Finally I tested the HV cap. It reads infinite resistance to the
> chassis from either terminal. Between the terminals my capacitance
> meters reads around 0.86 uF... which seems to be correct.
>
> I've heard mention of a possibly bad HV fuse. AFAICT, this unit
> doesn't have one of those.
>
> So...the HV cap seems good, the mag seems good, the diode seems good,
> the unit seems to draw appropriate current when in cook mode,yet the
> over won't heat food.
>
> What am I missing???
>
> Could the magnetron still be "bad" despite the fact that it doesn't
> read shorted/open?
>
> Thanks.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Weird telephone problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b67728e19c05524?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 2:21 pm
From: PeterD

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:33:24 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:

>...
>Ackshooly, the homeowners are lucky, because the last time they called
>the telco (AT&T), they got a guy who scurried about under the house,
>found the problem (this was a DSL issue), fixed it, and DIDN'T CHARGE
>THEM ANYTHING FOR IT! They think they can get this person to perform
>another miracle for them.

That would truely be a miracle, and if it happens they should also
consdier buying a handful of lottery tickets. Heck, just one lottery
ticket, it will win.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 4:20 pm
From: PlainBill47@yahoo.com

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:33:24 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:

>On 7/17/2010 8:56 AM Jeffrey D Angus spake thus:
>
>> David Nebenzahl wrote:
> >
>>> I said that *some* of the phones (meaning the wiring inside the
>>> house) work and some of them don't, so obviously the problem
>>> is inside the house.
>>
>> Bite the bullet. Buy a box of Cat-3 (or 5) wire and start over.
>> Every house I've ever worked on has a total cluster-f**k for the
>> telephone wiring.
>>
>> Pick a location, (a closet or such) and call that "home".
>> Run a new cable from the telephone company POE, to there.
>> From there, run a new cable to each and every jack in the
>> house.
>>
>> One Type-66 split block and a package of jumper clips will
>> make a nice "distribution" point in the closet.
>>
>> Problem solved.
>>
>> And if you decide to get campy and put in a cheap PBX, all
>> your work is already done for the most part.
>
>Well, good suggestions all.
>
>But thanks but no thanks; I'll answer several replies here by saying
>that even though I posted this query, I have no intention of actually
>trying to fix it. Here's why.
>
WTF!!!

Here's how life works. If a man (I'm referring to a real man, not
some elitest bullshit "I don't want to get my hands dirty" type who
happens to possess a Y chromosome) sees a problem, he tries to fix it.
If he can't he asks for help.

This doesn't reflect unfavorably on his masculinity. When the first
proto cave-man decided it would be nice to live in a cave rather than
get wet every time it rained, he asked his proto cave-man buddies for
advice on getting the wild animals out of the cave of choice. And
being real men, they probably offered to help. And sat around in the
cave afterward eating the former four legged occupant.

If you are going to ask for advice that you don't intend to use, the
honorable thing to do is to tell us up front that this is purely for
informational purposes. At a mimimum, afterwards say "Thanks, the
problem has been solved." That at least give your helpers the
satisfaction of having spent their time in a useful matter.

This "I'm not going to do anything about it" is BULLSHIT!!!

PlainBill

>Mainly 'cuz I'm not a telephone repair person. As I get older I try more
>and more to recognize and respect my limitations. I'm not a master of
>all trades. I *might* be able to fix this problem; after all, telephone
>wiring is not exactly rocket science. But still, it has its on
>specialized problems, and I have no test equipment to perform this kind
>of diagnosis, apart from a VOM.
>
>Plus it's a fairly large house, with lots of wiring inside walls and in
>barely-accessible crawlspaces. Not my idea of fun at all, brushing aside
>piles of old rat shit to trace a wire.
>
>Plus, the existing wiring is a total fucking mess. Unbelievable how
>those phone co. monkeys wire stuff. There's a literal rat's nest of
>wiring under the house, not in any box, splices every which way, no
>consistency in the use of color pairs, no labels, just a fucking
>nightmare. So I'll leave it to someone else to sort out, thank you very
>much.
>
>Ackshooly, the homeowners are lucky, because the last time they called
>the telco (AT&T), they got a guy who scurried about under the house,
>found the problem (this was a DSL issue), fixed it, and DIDN'T CHARGE
>THEM ANYTHING FOR IT! They think they can get this person to perform
>another miracle for them.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 11:20 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 7/17/2010 4:20 PM PlainBill47@yahoo.com spake thus:

> If you are going to ask for advice that you don't intend to use, the
> honorable thing to do is to tell us up front that this is purely for
> informational purposes. At a mimimum, afterwards say "Thanks, the
> problem has been solved." That at least give your helpers the
> satisfaction of having spent their time in a useful matter.
>
> This "I'm not going to do anything about it" is BULLSHIT!!!

I'm sorry you were offended.

No, I take that back: I'm actually *happy* that you were offended.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: High Voltage Rectifier
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b910aed914c6b526?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 4:25 pm
From: PlainBill47@yahoo.com

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 18:41:19 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:34:23 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
>> On 7/17/2010 8:41 AM Meat Plow spake thus:
>>
>>> On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:39:50 -0400, Ed M wrote:
>>>
>>>> Might anyone have the specs on this rectifier? No manufacturer is
>>>> given, part number is: H67C100H20LTS.
>>>>
>>>> Thank you.
>>>
>>> Might help to know what the hell it's out of?
>>
>> Betcha Franc Z. coulda helped the OP without asking that question.
>
>What's your fucking point?
He's a critic. The second most usless form of human being.

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple hack to get ,$500 to your home.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/228756bda9ace4b2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 7:39 pm
From: KAJOL

Simple hack to get $500 to your home at http://clickandstart.co.cc

Due to high security risks,i have hidden the cheque link in an
image. in that website on Top side Above search box, click on image
and enter your name and address where you want to receive your
cheque.please don,t tell to anyone.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Discount Wholesale Levi s Jeans
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e70a49fe3198a42f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 7:42 pm
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yves Saint Laurent china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/477c59079cf93deb?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 9:09 pm
From: "www.brandtrade10.com"

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Coach Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
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Bottega Veneta china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
Bally Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
Juicy Couture Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
Isabella Fiore Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
Tod's Bags http://www.brandtrade99.com
Loewe Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
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Anya Hindmarch china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
Thomaswylde Bags china supplier (http://www.brandtrade99.co

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TOPIC: Repairing an expensive speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8fc3fa133c100ac4?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 17 2010 11:22 pm
From: Ross Herbert

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 10:40:20 -0400, John <Ya@you.com> wrote:

:I am repairing two 15" Tannoys of the Gold series. A $5k unit if we
:could get them.
:
:Un oscillation in a cassette deck I was using, produced a very lowed
:sound that damaged the speakers.
:
:One of them has 6 turns of the voice coil, lose and can be glued back.
:
:On the old days I used to repair speakers using the same type of glue
:that was used on the assembling of models. A type of glue that use
:acetone as a solvent.
:Today we have better types of glue like epoxy and I believe the harder
:the glue the better the performance, the disadvantage is that using
:epoxy will make a future repair very difficult.
:
:Any suggestions ?
:
:The coil on the second speaker is open and in very bad shape. I am
:looking for a replacement.
:
:Tannoy does not carry parts for this type of speaker but there is a
:place in England that will sell me a cone assembly for about $300 usd.

Are these the speakers? http://www.44bx.com/tannoy/gold.html#anchor2238478

If so then they should be fairly easily repaired. A good repair shop will remove
the surround and the spider (probably with acetone) and they can re-attach the
winding or rewind if necessary.

Where I am in the most remote capital in the world we have a repair shop who
could do it http://www.shortfuse.net.au/ He is frequently asked to perform this
type of repair on Altec, Goodmans, Wharfedale etc.

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