sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 16 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: multisongs downloadings
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e3d973b1c202091?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 26 2010 10:36 pm
From: gayathri m

multisongs downloadings
http://www.123maza.com/dora/vvvvv

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Isopropyl Alcohol for Cleaning Flux
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a3663fd81cf5bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 12:28 am
From: "pimpom"

Arfa Daily wrote:
> "pimpom" <pimpom@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:i2knq7$6ls$1@news.albasani.net...
>> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>>> On 7/26/2010 11:49 AM Geoffrey S. Mendelson spake thus:
>>>
>>>> GregS wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> 95% is a very good figure. I actually use the NON-denatured
>>>>> stuff.
>>>>
>>>> How about the drinking stuff? (95% "grain" alcohol).
>>>>
>>>> Here I can by a "fifth" (750ml) for less than 250ml of 70%
>>>> Isopropyl.
>>>
>>> Well, that's ethanol, which should also work fine, so long as
>>> you
>>> don't mind the 5% water.
>>
>> I use medical or denatured alcohol as a general-purpose
>> cleaning
>> solution. When I need stronger stuff, such as on cruds of old
>> and
>> hardened flux or when there's simply lots of it, I use
>> automobile
>> paint thinner. Wiping with a piece of cloth or cotton wool is
>> usually enough and I rarely need to scrub with a brush.
>>
>> The thinner can dissolve some plastics though. So some care is
>> needed, as is good ventilation. It looks and feels somewhat
>> oily but
>> dries very quickly. A one-liter can costs about $3 US here.
>>
>
> Hope you never use it on a board that's got a lacquer type
> coating on
> it then ... :-\

I do take care to use it only where it won't do damage. The "some
plastics" was just an example.

>
> What amazes me, and I can't understand, is why all of these
> 'substitute' chemicals are used by people, when the proper
> ones,
> designed for the job, are really not expensive in the first
> place
>
Some people use the substitutes because they don't know better.
Others have good reasons: The "proper" ones are not easily
available in many parts of the world, including mine. And the
thinner serves other useful purposes too. It's a good
general-purpose solvent.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 1:10 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Sergey Kubushyn" <ksi@koi8.net> wrote in message
news:i2lakl$du0$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> In sci.electronics.repair Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> "pimpom" <pimpom@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:i2knq7$6ls$1@news.albasani.net...
>>> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>>>> On 7/26/2010 11:49 AM Geoffrey S. Mendelson spake thus:
>>>>
>>>>> GregS wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> 95% is a very good figure. I actually use the NON-denatured stuff.
>>>>>
>>>>> How about the drinking stuff? (95% "grain" alcohol).
>>>>>
>>>>> Here I can by a "fifth" (750ml) for less than 250ml of 70% Isopropyl.
>>>>
>>>> Well, that's ethanol, which should also work fine, so long as you
>>>> don't mind the 5% water.
>>>
>>> I use medical or denatured alcohol as a general-purpose cleaning
>>> solution.
>>> When I need stronger stuff, such as on cruds of old and hardened flux or
>>> when there's simply lots of it, I use automobile paint thinner. Wiping
>>> with a piece of cloth or cotton wool is usually enough and I rarely need
>>> to scrub with a brush.
>>>
>>> The thinner can dissolve some plastics though. So some care is needed,
>>> as
>>> is good ventilation. It looks and feels somewhat oily but dries very
>>> quickly. A one-liter can costs about $3 US here.
>>>
>>
>> Hope you never use it on a board that's got a lacquer type coating on it
>> then ... :-\
>>
>> What amazes me, and I can't understand, is why all of these 'substitute'
>> chemicals are used by people, when the proper ones, designed for the job,
>> are really not expensive in the first place
>
> Another question is why do they try to clean rosin with pure alcohol that
> is
> extremely ineffective for that purpose?
>
> The ad-hoc solution that is cheap and works really well is a mix of 60%
> denaturated alcohol with 40% Xylene from a hardware store. Pure alcohol is
> a
> very bad solvent for rosin flux, very slow and leaving a lot of white
> residue.
>
> And it only makes sense to invent something homebrew if very good flux
> remover in aerosol cans is really unavailable. Otherwise just go grab a
> can
> at your local Fry's (or whatever) and enjoy.
>
> ---
> ******************************************************************
> * KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
> * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
> ******************************************************************

Yes, the fact that it's not very good for some types of flux - rosin as you
say - was one of my original points. Alcohol is fine for cleaning general
crud and sticky things and greasy things, and I keep a can of Electrolube
99.7% electronics grade IPA for just those purposes, but I also keep a can
of proper defluxer for, well .... defluxing ....

Arfa

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 5:50 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> In the US, denatured alcohol is not methanol; it's ethanol
> with a denaturant. The denaturant can be methanol, or
> a number of other chemicals, as long as it's sufficiently
> adulterated to prevent a person from using it for ingestion.

"using it for ingestion" = "drinking it" You will soon be visited by
Jacques Barzun and put to death in a most unpleasant manner.

Methanol is wood alcohol. It _is_ drinkable -- but poisonous. Among other
things, it causes blindness.

I've never tasted denatured alcohol -- a few drops are harmless -- so I
don't understand why denatured alcohol is "undrinkable".

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 6:50 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <g31s46p08a2d3iasq94q31guq46k07n7ra@4ax.com>, "krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
>On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 19:04:22 GMT, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
>
>>In article <slrni4rlsb.9v8.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>, gsm@mendelson.com wrote:
>>>GregS wrote:
>>>
>>>> 95% is a very good figure. I actually use the NON-denatured stuff.
>>>
>>>How about the drinking stuff? (95% "grain" alcohol).
>>>
>>>Here I can by a "fifth" (750ml) for less than 250ml of 70% Isopropyl.
>>>
>>
>>
>>Yes I was reffering to the ethanol drinkable stuff that is not taxed.
>>Been used for years in medical parties.
>
>Not a wise move. The un-taxed stuff (not for human consumption) often
>contains benzene.

Thats the 99% stuff that contains benzene.

greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Googi T-shirt made in china (http://www.brandtrade99.com )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eb970e1a0f63b34e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 1:35 am
From: "www.jersey-2009.com"

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Question for the Brits here, what do you call aBelling-Leeconnector?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b63d999facac6197?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 2:23 am
From: Bob Villa

On Jul 26, 4:39 am, "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <g...@mendelson.com>
wrote:
> N_Cook wrote:
> > I assume RS cannot use a "trade name" for generic (Hoover for vacuum cleaner
> > etc) even if defunct company name
>
> Not defunct:
>
> http://www.belling-lee.com/
>
> Maybe not the same company, but not defunct.
>
> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
> dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

He meant, I believe, that "Hoover" was defunct. Has anyone tried a
Google image search for "Belling-Lee connector"?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying smd device please!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b44ceae3192b04f6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 2:30 am
From: "Alexis.happyphoenix@googlemail.com"

On 24 July, 01:51, Randy Day <randy....@sasktel.netx> wrote:
> In article <a03347a2-53d7-46a2-8785-
> 1aea816d9...@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>,
> alexis.happyphoe...@gmail.com says...
>
>
>
> > I have perhaps foolishly tackled the repair of my freeview box -
> > Tvonics MDR-250 - for which no service information appears to be
> > available. I'm an amateur, btw. (Fault is it's powering on and
> > immediately shutting down repeatedly.)
>
> > I have a suspect component, marked Q700 on the PCB, suggesting that
> > it's a transistor of some sort, and marked 654Z. I've tried googling
> > for this part number but can't find any information.
>
> > Its a 6 legged device, and I don't know of any 6 legged types of
> > transistor. The only alternative device I've come up with is an opto-
> > isolator - though I don't know what the standard PCB identifier would
> > be for one of these.
>
> > 2 pairs of pins are connected together, so there are effectively 4
> > legs. It's in a very cramped part of the board (next to the power
> > socket and what I think is a fuse on it's own little sub-board) so I
> > can't really work anything out from what it's connected to.
>
> > Anyways, I need some info because it's either completely short
> > circuit, or it's connected to something which is completely short
> > circuit, and I can't do much unless I find out what the thing is.
>
> It's probably dual transistors in a
> SOT pack. Searching Digikey will
> likely pull up dozens of
> contenders.
>
> They can be dual npn, dual pnp or one
> of each. Dual MOSFETs also use the
> package. With two legs connected,
> they could be wired common-emitter
> for switching, push-pull for
> amplification (though not likely), or
> just about any combination of two
> transistors.
>
> Unfortunately, it could also be a
> small IC like a single logic gate.
> Lots of stuff uses the SOT package
> nowadays.
>
> Wish I could be more help.
>
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: n...@netfront.net ---

Ok that's a hundred percent more info than I had and makes a lot of
sense. I am duly grateful :-)

Many thanks
Alexis

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Using the proper technical terms ... :-)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/70f4a28084d10b2c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 2:46 am
From: Ron

On 26/07/2010 23:01, Trevor Wilson wrote:
> "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:blj3o.55085$0e3.52289@hurricane...
>> Just in. A combo, the job ticket on which says "Low volume. Sounds like
>> shit."
>>
>> There's hope for the lads behind the counter, yet. How nice to get one
>> with a perfect owner's description of the problem, rather than some wild
>> guess that the person who's booked it in has made, based on what the owner
>> said. I can just see some hairy guitarist lugging it in and saying to
>> whoever booked it in "Go on lad ! Just write it down, Low volume. Sounds
>> like shit !"
>>
>> :-)
>
> **I like it! Much better than when the customer thinks they can diagnose the
> fault for you.
>
>
It's probably just a wire off, needs welding...

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 1574 of my spam emails to date.
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The Professional version does not have this message

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 6:17 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:Fd-dnWkpOJBFN9PRnZ2dnUVZ8qCdnZ2d@bt.com...
> On 26/07/2010 23:01, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>> "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:blj3o.55085$0e3.52289@hurricane...
>>> Just in. A combo, the job ticket on which says "Low volume. Sounds like
>>> shit."
>>>
>>> There's hope for the lads behind the counter, yet. How nice to get one
>>> with a perfect owner's description of the problem, rather than some wild
>>> guess that the person who's booked it in has made, based on what the
>>> owner
>>> said. I can just see some hairy guitarist lugging it in and saying to
>>> whoever booked it in "Go on lad ! Just write it down, Low volume. Sounds
>>> like shit !"
>>>
>>> :-)
>>
>> **I like it! Much better than when the customer thinks they can diagnose
>> the
>> fault for you.
>>
>>
> It's probably just a wire off, needs welding...
>
> --

Ah, funny you should mention welding, Ron. Apart from my new Chinese hot air
rework station purporting to be for electronic solder welding ...

I put that amp on the bench this morning, and indeed, it did have low
volume, and it did sound like shit - but not all of the time ... If you
plugged a guitar in it, and gave it a good 'clang', it produced a horrible
grating distortion, almost as though something was arcing, and how right
that turned out to be ! Plugging a generator into it, and with a reasonable
set of front panel settings on the amp, you could wind the generator level
up, and all of a sudden, the output would go from a nice clean sine wave, to
something resembling a distorted square wave, with 'sparky-looking'
interference on the top.

Nothing was shifting - HT was clean, bias was clean, outputs from the phase
splitter were clean, and drive right on the grids of the O/P tubes was
clean, but both anodes (plates) were 'dirty'. I was beginning to suspect
that the O/P Tx was breaking down when there was a large peak - peak drive
across it, but thought that I'd better try a replacement pair of 6L6's in
it, just in case. No change. I managed to get the generator set to a level
where it was consistently producing the bad output, and was just about to
carry out some more 'scope checks, when something caught my eye. It was a
little firestorm going on around one of the output jacks, which on this amp
are in the bottom of the chassis pointing down, and are open frame types.
The one for an extension speaker has an open contact set on it. Where the
contact 'loops' out of the front of the socket, it is quite close to the
chassis, and there, wedged between the contact and the chassis, was a screw,
merrily arcing away. I shut off and pried the screw out with a screwdriver
tip, and then, stupidly, picked it up and burnt my fingers :-(

The screw was a black plated type, so I guess not a brilliant conductor -
not enough to actually put a full short across the output, anyway. However,
once there was a high enough p-p output voltage across there, the plating
was breaking down enough to cause the sparks, and upset the output stage.
The screw was actually one of the ones that secures the main board to the
chassis. Given that these combos are built as portable gigging items, I' m
surprised that a company like Fender, doesn't put a paint seal, or a bit of
thread-lock on these screws. Still, they've all got a liberal coat of nail
polish on them now, so hopefully should prevent a similar occurrence in the
future.

Nice to get an 'odd' fault that can actually be pinned to a definite
problem, with a definite fix, for a change ...

Arfa

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 7:30 am
From: Ron

On 27/07/2010 14:17, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
> news:Fd-dnWkpOJBFN9PRnZ2dnUVZ8qCdnZ2d@bt.com...
>> On 26/07/2010 23:01, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>>> "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:blj3o.55085$0e3.52289@hurricane...
>>>> Just in. A combo, the job ticket on which says "Low volume. Sounds like
>>>> shit."
>>>>
>>>> There's hope for the lads behind the counter, yet. How nice to get one
>>>> with a perfect owner's description of the problem, rather than some
>>>> wild
>>>> guess that the person who's booked it in has made, based on what the
>>>> owner
>>>> said. I can just see some hairy guitarist lugging it in and saying to
>>>> whoever booked it in "Go on lad ! Just write it down, Low volume.
>>>> Sounds
>>>> like shit !"
>>>>
>>>> :-)
>>>
>>> **I like it! Much better than when the customer thinks they can
>>> diagnose the
>>> fault for you.
>>>
>>>
>> It's probably just a wire off, needs welding...
>>
>> --
>
>
> Ah, funny you should mention welding, Ron. Apart from my new Chinese hot
> air rework station purporting to be for electronic solder welding ...
>
> I put that amp on the bench this morning, and indeed, it did have low
> volume, and it did sound like shit - but not all of the time ... If you
> plugged a guitar in it, and gave it a good 'clang', it produced a
> horrible grating distortion, almost as though something was arcing, and
> how right that turned out to be ! Plugging a generator into it, and with
> a reasonable set of front panel settings on the amp, you could wind the
> generator level up, and all of a sudden, the output would go from a nice
> clean sine wave, to something resembling a distorted square wave, with
> 'sparky-looking' interference on the top.
>
> Nothing was shifting - HT was clean, bias was clean, outputs from the
> phase splitter were clean, and drive right on the grids of the O/P tubes
> was clean, but both anodes (plates) were 'dirty'. I was beginning to
> suspect that the O/P Tx was breaking down when there was a large peak -
> peak drive across it, but thought that I'd better try a replacement pair
> of 6L6's in it, just in case. No change. I managed to get the generator
> set to a level where it was consistently producing the bad output, and
> was just about to carry out some more 'scope checks, when something
> caught my eye. It was a little firestorm going on around one of the
> output jacks, which on this amp are in the bottom of the chassis
> pointing down, and are open frame types. The one for an extension
> speaker has an open contact set on it. Where the contact 'loops' out of
> the front of the socket, it is quite close to the chassis, and there,
> wedged between the contact and the chassis, was a screw, merrily arcing
> away. I shut off and pried the screw out with a screwdriver tip, and
> then, stupidly, picked it up and burnt my fingers :-(
>
> The screw was a black plated type, so I guess not a brilliant conductor
> - not enough to actually put a full short across the output, anyway.
> However, once there was a high enough p-p output voltage across there,
> the plating was breaking down enough to cause the sparks, and upset the
> output stage. The screw was actually one of the ones that secures the
> main board to the chassis. Given that these combos are built as portable
> gigging items, I' m surprised that a company like Fender, doesn't put a
> paint seal, or a bit of thread-lock on these screws. Still, they've all
> got a liberal coat of nail polish on them now, so hopefully should
> prevent a similar occurrence in the future.
>
> Nice to get an 'odd' fault that can actually be pinned to a definite
> problem, with a definite fix, for a change ...
>
> Arfa

So I was almost right, it wasn't fooked, it was screwed!

Ron

The Professional version does not have this message

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 7:46 am
From: "tm"

"Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:fsSdnW-vmZAKcNPRnZ2dnUVZ8lSdnZ2d@bt.com...
> On 27/07/2010 14:17, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
>> news:Fd-dnWkpOJBFN9PRnZ2dnUVZ8qCdnZ2d@bt.com...
>>> On 26/07/2010 23:01, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>>>> "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:blj3o.55085$0e3.52289@hurricane...
>>>>> Just in. A combo, the job ticket on which says "Low volume. Sounds
>>>>> like
>>>>> shit."
>>>>>
>>>>> There's hope for the lads behind the counter, yet. How nice to get one
>>>>> with a perfect owner's description of the problem, rather than some
>>>>> wild
>>>>> guess that the person who's booked it in has made, based on what the
>>>>> owner
>>>>> said. I can just see some hairy guitarist lugging it in and saying to
>>>>> whoever booked it in "Go on lad ! Just write it down, Low volume.
>>>>> Sounds
>>>>> like shit !"
>>>>>
>>>>> :-)
>>>>
>>>> **I like it! Much better than when the customer thinks they can
>>>> diagnose the
>>>> fault for you.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> It's probably just a wire off, needs welding...
>>>
>>> --
>>
>>
>> Ah, funny you should mention welding, Ron. Apart from my new Chinese hot
>> air rework station purporting to be for electronic solder welding ...
>>
>> I put that amp on the bench this morning, and indeed, it did have low
>> volume, and it did sound like shit - but not all of the time ... If you
>> plugged a guitar in it, and gave it a good 'clang', it produced a
>> horrible grating distortion, almost as though something was arcing, and
>> how right that turned out to be ! Plugging a generator into it, and with
>> a reasonable set of front panel settings on the amp, you could wind the
>> generator level up, and all of a sudden, the output would go from a nice
>> clean sine wave, to something resembling a distorted square wave, with
>> 'sparky-looking' interference on the top.
>>
>> Nothing was shifting - HT was clean, bias was clean, outputs from the
>> phase splitter were clean, and drive right on the grids of the O/P tubes
>> was clean, but both anodes (plates) were 'dirty'. I was beginning to
>> suspect that the O/P Tx was breaking down when there was a large peak -
>> peak drive across it, but thought that I'd better try a replacement pair
>> of 6L6's in it, just in case. No change. I managed to get the generator
>> set to a level where it was consistently producing the bad output, and
>> was just about to carry out some more 'scope checks, when something
>> caught my eye. It was a little firestorm going on around one of the
>> output jacks, which on this amp are in the bottom of the chassis
>> pointing down, and are open frame types. The one for an extension
>> speaker has an open contact set on it. Where the contact 'loops' out of
>> the front of the socket, it is quite close to the chassis, and there,
>> wedged between the contact and the chassis, was a screw, merrily arcing
>> away. I shut off and pried the screw out with a screwdriver tip, and
>> then, stupidly, picked it up and burnt my fingers :-(
>>
>> The screw was a black plated type, so I guess not a brilliant conductor
>> - not enough to actually put a full short across the output, anyway.
>> However, once there was a high enough p-p output voltage across there,
>> the plating was breaking down enough to cause the sparks, and upset the
>> output stage. The screw was actually one of the ones that secures the
>> main board to the chassis. Given that these combos are built as portable
>> gigging items, I' m surprised that a company like Fender, doesn't put a
>> paint seal, or a bit of thread-lock on these screws. Still, they've all
>> got a liberal coat of nail polish on them now, so hopefully should
>> prevent a similar occurrence in the future.
>>
>> Nice to get an 'odd' fault that can actually be pinned to a definite
>> problem, with a definite fix, for a change ...
>>
>> Arfa
>
> So I was almost right, it wasn't fooked, it was screwed!
>

Haha, it's only a matter of semantics.

Good story though.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 8:55 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Or not ... :-)

Arfa

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 8:59 am
From: b

Still, nice to see a bit of kit that, even with almost a direct short
on, didn't blow up the o/p stage or get otherwise BER.
-B

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Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 5:52 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 13:35:24 -0700, El Grillo wrote:

> Thank you everyone for your help!
>
> I will try to work out some of the issues tomorrow at the shop.
>
> Also, if a filter cap tests good using a ESR meter, could it still be
> bad??

If there is a doubt, sub it. As far as I'm concerned if it passed the ESR
test it's good (for the time being)

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TOPIC: Technics dv-280 stereo system -cassette dead
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e82b2f1fb77f2b42?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 8:48 am
From: b

Picked this up a few months back and just hauled it out. The units
power up, and lights come on but the cassette deck stubbornly remains
dead.

This is a 'pseudo-separates' affair, where each box is connected by
means of a flat ribbon cable. The main trafo. is in the amp which then
feeds a 'sound processor'/input selector box, from whence the dvd and
cassette decks are fed. The dvd, which is downstream from the
cassette, powers up fine. I'm assuming they use the same power rail,
so will concentrate on the cassette unit first.
Going to take some measurements on the cassette pcb, but I'd like the
service data to speed things up, as this is quite a complex unit and
it would save me the hassle of having to unscrew and open all the
boxes to trace the basic voltage lines.

Anyone suggest a source for a schematic? Tried eserviceinfo to no
avail....
cheers,
B

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 9:35 am
From: b

On Jul 27, 5:48 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Picked this up a few months back and just hauled it out. The units
> power up, and lights come on but the cassette deck stubbornly remains
> dead.

Also forgot to mention: no audio through speakers, and through
headphones nothing either -well, I get a low hiss (vol. at full) when
in tuner mode, despite the search mode working and stations appearing
as 'tuned' in the display....
-B

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Wega KD-36XS955
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d41634951796c588?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 8:51 am
From: b

On Jul 23, 11:54 pm, "MR.PEANUT" <impeanu...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am having some problems with this 36" tv. Sometimes it will turn on
> and sometimes it won`t.

I'd start by checking for cracked solder joints, especially around the
line and power stages, very common problem in Sonys.
***Please observe the safety guidelines and see the FAQ at www.repairfaq.org.**
B

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0abf3e391949c60b?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 27 2010 9:02 am
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0f5e67534f7c9fc4?hl=en
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