sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Motorola Cross Reference program... - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f71ee2145e5900e4?hl=en
* Restek powered studio monitors - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d5bac222a0b8837?hl=en
* Midiverb ii issues? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aaedd7aef36420d1?hl=en
* hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11 - 3 messages, 3
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
* Isopropyl Alcohol for Cleaning Flux - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a3663fd81cf5bd?hl=en
* Hot Sexy Star Aishwarya Rai Bathing Videos In All Angles - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8043b3305ab32490?hl=en
* Repairing flexible pcb connector track? - 9 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Motorola Cross Reference program...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f71ee2145e5900e4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jul 28 2010 11:24 pm
From: jeanyves

On 2010-07-29 05:37:42 +0200, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> said:

> On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:10:31 GMT, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Years ago (1980s?) I had a program from Motorola on 1.4" floppy that
>> would allow me to input a characteristic and the program would reply
>> with a list of transistors that matched. I have long since lost it...
>>
>> Has anyone got a copy or know of something similar? Motorola was
>> handing this out to anyone that asked, so I would assume it is
>> essentially public domain.
>>
>> John :-#)#
>
> I probably have one buried somewhere. However, the associated data is
> really ancient. Do you really want the old products?
>
> The modern version is online:
> <http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/library/prod_lib.jsp>
> under "Parametric Seartch".

Sorry there doesnt seems to be any transistor in this modern version
quite normal freescale doesnt sell any ..

regards,
--
-
Jean-Yves

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 3:49 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

jeanyves wrote:
>
> On 2010-07-29 05:37:42 +0200, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> said:
>
> > On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:10:31 GMT, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Years ago (1980s?) I had a program from Motorola on 1.4" floppy that
> >> would allow me to input a characteristic and the program would reply
> >> with a list of transistors that matched. I have long since lost it...
> >>
> >> Has anyone got a copy or know of something similar? Motorola was
> >> handing this out to anyone that asked, so I would assume it is
> >> essentially public domain.
> >>
> >> John :-#)#
> >
> > I probably have one buried somewhere. However, the associated data is
> > really ancient. Do you really want the old products?
> >
> > The modern version is online:
> > <http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/library/prod_lib.jsp>
> > under "Parametric Seartch".
>
> Sorry there doesnt seems to be any transistor in this modern version
> quite normal freescale doesnt sell any ..
>
> regards,

The transistors went to ON: www.onsemiconductor.com

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 4:17 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:10:31 +0000, John Robertson wrote:

> Years ago (1980s?) I had a program from Motorola on 1.4" floppy that
> would allow me to input a characteristic and the program would reply
> with a list of transistors that matched. I have long since lost it...
>
> Has anyone got a copy or know of something similar? Motorola was
> handing this out to anyone that asked, so I would assume it is
> essentially public domain.
>

Didn't Motorola migrate this to a web-based interface?

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 10:08 am
From: John Robertson

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:10:31 GMT, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Years ago (1980s?) I had a program from Motorola on 1.4" floppy that
>> would allow me to input a characteristic and the program would reply
>> with a list of transistors that matched. I have long since lost it...
>>
>> Has anyone got a copy or know of something similar? Motorola was
>> handing this out to anyone that asked, so I would assume it is
>> essentially public domain.
>>
>> John :-#)#
>
> I probably have one buried somewhere. However, the associated data is
> really ancient. Do you really want the old products?
>
> The modern version is online:
> <http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/library/prod_lib.jsp>
> under "Parametric Seartch".
>
>

Actually the data that I want is indeed ancient! I am substituting
transistors from the 1970s and need to find better x-refs than ECG etc
provide. Some of the circuits used a specific transistor due to its
exact gain characteristics and others just don't work quite right...

So, if you do have that floppy lying around I really could use a zipped
copy (the return email address is quite valid - spam@fl...).

Thanks!

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Restek powered studio monitors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d5bac222a0b8837?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 1:23 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Archon" <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:_a64o.495695$Jq1.238322@en-nntp-05.dc1.easynews.com...
> On 7/28/2010 8:28 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> Some of the 13 x 8s did have, and I seem to recall that some also had a
>> bracket fixed across the centre, which held a pair of black Mylar-coned
>> tweeters. The 13 x 8s that I used were the 'straight' bass version. I
>> built 3 ways with them, using the matching EMI 8 x 5s for the mids, and
>> they did indeed (still do) have a whizzer cone in the middle. The mids
>> are separately baffled by their own sub-enclosure behind them, and
>> inside the volume of the bass cabs. The tweeters are Eagle aluminium
>> domes. Very bright sound. I picked them because I loved the clarity that
>> they added to the top end of the sorts of music that I was listening to
>> back then - mainly heavy and progressive rock. The crossovers are also
>> Eagle. They used to make some good products. I guess they don't exist
>> any more. :-(
>>
>> Arfa
>
> Should have built the , Kef B139, B110, T27's, built them in 1976, still
> using them, still sound awesome!
> JC

Friend of mine has just built some ! He bought all the drivers way back
then, and has had them 'stored' ever since from lack of finance, skill, and
will. Then, last year, he decided to build them, so had a local joinery
place cut all of the boards for him. The job still took him the better part
of a year, but he finally finished them, and was then extremely disappointed
with the sound. However, he persevered with them, and eventually found that
they were extremely critical of their positioning in the room, and performed
loads better, when elevated from the floor. He now alternates between his
Quad electrostatics, and the Kefs, depending on what he is listening to.

Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 1:32 am
From: Ron

On 28/07/2010 21:16, David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 7/28/2010 12:10 PM Ron spake thus:
>
>> On 28/07/2010 17:50, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>> I've just been listening to a CD through them. They sound nice, and
>>> very smooth with a very flat and stiff sounding bass. Quite easy on
>>> the old lug-holes, but I'm not sure that I would rate them as 16
>>> grand more easy than my home-built EMI 13 x 8 cabs from the 70's
>>> ... :-)
>>
>> Ahh 13 x 8's did they have the whizzer cone in the centre?
>
> Whizzer cones? Are you pulling our legs?
>
> I always associated whizzer cones with the know-nothing, 6x9 oval weird
> expensive speakers to throw in the back of your car market, not anything
> near audiophool quality. Am I wrong?
>
>
Well, these were 13 x 8 " elipticals, often used in PA columns back in
the 60's tho they were still around well into the 70'. I don't think EMI
ever claimed that they were 'hifi'

However, you still see whizzers on modern speakers, Eminence still make
them. I was interested to see a speaker with a 'dual cone' in a modern
Mark Bass combo only yesterday.

Ron(UK)

--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 1589 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 2:43 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Archon <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote:

> On 7/28/2010 8:28 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> > Some of the 13 x 8s did have, and I seem to recall that some also had a
> > bracket fixed across the centre, which held a pair of black Mylar-coned
> > tweeters. The 13 x 8s that I used were the 'straight' bass version. I
> > built 3 ways with them, using the matching EMI 8 x 5s for the mids, and
> > they did indeed (still do) have a whizzer cone in the middle. The mids
> > are separately baffled by their own sub-enclosure behind them, and
> > inside the volume of the bass cabs. The tweeters are Eagle aluminium
> > domes. Very bright sound. I picked them because I loved the clarity that
> > they added to the top end of the sorts of music that I was listening to
> > back then - mainly heavy and progressive rock. The crossovers are also
> > Eagle. They used to make some good products. I guess they don't exist
> > any more. :-(
> >
> > Arfa
>
> Should have built the , Kef B139, B110, T27's, built them in 1976, still
> using them, still sound awesome!

I'm using individully amped 2 x B139, B110, SEAS H881 in
totally-enclosed cabinets as monitors for pipe organ recordings. They
weigh 50Kg each (including the amplifiers) and are of 'sandwich'
construction of 9mm plywood, roofing felt and 19 SWG galvanised steel
plate.

We arranged an impromptu test which fooled the organ tuner into thinking
he was actually hearing the organ.

--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 9:22 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Adrian Tuddenham" <adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:1jme00i.1ow576w1bfmub8N%adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid...
> Archon <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> On 7/28/2010 8:28 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>> > Some of the 13 x 8s did have, and I seem to recall that some also had a
>> > bracket fixed across the centre, which held a pair of black Mylar-coned
>> > tweeters. The 13 x 8s that I used were the 'straight' bass version. I
>> > built 3 ways with them, using the matching EMI 8 x 5s for the mids, and
>> > they did indeed (still do) have a whizzer cone in the middle. The mids
>> > are separately baffled by their own sub-enclosure behind them, and
>> > inside the volume of the bass cabs. The tweeters are Eagle aluminium
>> > domes. Very bright sound. I picked them because I loved the clarity
>> > that
>> > they added to the top end of the sorts of music that I was listening to
>> > back then - mainly heavy and progressive rock. The crossovers are also
>> > Eagle. They used to make some good products. I guess they don't exist
>> > any more. :-(
>> >
>> > Arfa
>>
>> Should have built the , Kef B139, B110, T27's, built them in 1976, still
>> using them, still sound awesome!
>
> I'm using individully amped 2 x B139, B110, SEAS H881 in
> totally-enclosed cabinets as monitors for pipe organ recordings. They
> weigh 50Kg each (including the amplifiers) and are of 'sandwich'
> construction of 9mm plywood, roofing felt and 19 SWG galvanised steel
> plate.
>
> We arranged an impromptu test which fooled the organ tuner into thinking
> he was actually hearing the organ.
>
> --
> ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~

Love it ! Is this just church organ recordings, or theatre organs as well ?
We had a beautiful three manual Wurlitzer in town for many years until the
venue where it was housed, closed down. It had one of the best sounds I have
ever heard, and the resident organist played it like it was an extension of
himself. Shades of Dixon and Torch. I had a couple of CDs that were sold to
visitors to the venue, but all I have left now, is the case to one of them.
They were proper commercial discs, but I have been completely unable to
trace them anywhere since. Sadly, as the venue is now gone, there's no
chance of ever replacing them, I fear. Don't suppose you've ever come across
Sovereign Music, have you ? I wonder who bought that instrument when the
place closed, and where it is now ?

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Midiverb ii issues?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aaedd7aef36420d1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 1:28 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

<snip>

>>
>> Interesting. I wonder why the difference ? A few years back - say 10 or
>> so -
>> I would have said that I saw as many short circuit electrolytics, as any
>> other problems with them such as open circuit, low value, leaking,
>> bulging
>> etc. Now though, short circuit is comparatively rare. As to cathode caps,
>> I
>> think that I have probably seen more that were open circuit than short.
>> Used
>> to be a big problem in the frame output and audio output stages of TV
>> sets,
>> back in the day ...
>
>
> Sprague had high standards, but you paid for it. Japanese crap hit
> the US hard in the early '70s and you saw a lot more failed
> electrolytics. Sprague started shutting down their plants as demand for
> high quality electrolytics dropped. I still have a roll of aluminized
> mylar from the Orlando plant, along with a partial roll of 'component
> lead' they used on their famous 'Orange Drop' capacitors.

Now there's another interesting thing. I wouldn't have thought that Orlando,
given the extremes of humidity that it suffers, would have been a very good
place for manufacturing capacitors, or was it just 'wet' electrolytics that
were made there ? Or was the whole plant environment-controlled ? Guess you
wouldn't be able to afford to do that these days ...

Arfa

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 3:46 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> >>
> >> Interesting. I wonder why the difference ? A few years back - say 10 or
> >> so -
> >> I would have said that I saw as many short circuit electrolytics, as any
> >> other problems with them such as open circuit, low value, leaking,
> >> bulging
> >> etc. Now though, short circuit is comparatively rare. As to cathode caps,
> >> I
> >> think that I have probably seen more that were open circuit than short.
> >> Used
> >> to be a big problem in the frame output and audio output stages of TV
> >> sets,
> >> back in the day ...
> >
> >
> > Sprague had high standards, but you paid for it. Japanese crap hit
> > the US hard in the early '70s and you saw a lot more failed
> > electrolytics. Sprague started shutting down their plants as demand for
> > high quality electrolytics dropped. I still have a roll of aluminized
> > mylar from the Orlando plant, along with a partial roll of 'component
> > lead' they used on their famous 'Orange Drop' capacitors.
>
> Now there's another interesting thing. I wouldn't have thought that Orlando,
> given the extremes of humidity that it suffers, would have been a very good
> place for manufacturing capacitors, or was it just 'wet' electrolytics that
> were made there ? Or was the whole plant environment-controlled ? Guess you
> wouldn't be able to afford to do that these days ...

Air conditioned factories were, and are common for electronics in the
US. When you consider the time it takes to wind a mylar capacitor and
dip it into epoxy, there isn't much time to adsorb moisture. If the
humidity is too low you will build up a static charge on the mylar, then
it will to stick to the rollers in the handling and winding machines.

The Microdyne plant where I worked was fully air conditioned, and it
was about two hours north of Orlando.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 4:16 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:28:33 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> <snip>
>
>
>>> Interesting. I wonder why the difference ? A few years back - say 10
>>> or so -
>>> I would have said that I saw as many short circuit electrolytics, as
>>> any other problems with them such as open circuit, low value, leaking,
>>> bulging
>>> etc. Now though, short circuit is comparatively rare. As to cathode
>>> caps, I
>>> think that I have probably seen more that were open circuit than
>>> short. Used
>>> to be a big problem in the frame output and audio output stages of TV
>>> sets,
>>> back in the day ...
>>
>>
>> Sprague had high standards, but you paid for it. Japanese crap hit
>> the US hard in the early '70s and you saw a lot more failed
>> electrolytics. Sprague started shutting down their plants as demand
>> for high quality electrolytics dropped. I still have a roll of
>> aluminized mylar from the Orlando plant, along with a partial roll of
>> 'component lead' they used on their famous 'Orange Drop' capacitors.
>
> Now there's another interesting thing. I wouldn't have thought that
> Orlando, given the extremes of humidity that it suffers, would have been
> a very good place for manufacturing capacitors, or was it just 'wet'
> electrolytics that were made there ? Or was the whole plant
> environment-controlled ? Guess you wouldn't be able to afford to do that
> these days ...
>
> Arfa

I don't suppose a plant manufacturing capacitors has to be very big. At
least the assembly building. It's easy enough to imagine a climate
controlled assembly room. And Mike is right about the history of
capacitors. I lived through the era when manufacturing stopped giving a
shit about quality over pumping out volumes of crap.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 5:25 am
From: Amanda Ripanykhazov

On Jul 26, 4:11 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "Amanda Ripanykhazov" <dmanzal...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:8f36b444-2b05-4f98-85e1-d79583ce9c63@g19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 24, 7:21 am, bz <WQAHBGMXS...@spammotel.com> wrote:
> >> Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
> >> > Anyone know what this means? This hissing sound isnt constant, it is
> >> > irregular:  It isnt related to the music or any movement of the cone
> >> > or any signal put through it, though it doesnt happen when no sound is
> >> > put through the speaker.
>
> >> > Frankly it sounds more mechancial than electronic (as if there is
> >> > something behind there!) but as I say, it isnt related to whatever is
> >> > coming through the speaker though it does increase and decrease with
> >> > adjustment of the volume control.  Andit is louder than most signals
> >> > put through the woofer itself??
>
> >> > Is it indicative of some pot in the crossover needing cleaning or is
> >> > there something else going on please? (I have seen reference to people
> >> > improving the sound of AR11s by bypassing the tone controls in the
> >> > speaker completely).  This speaker is quite elderly and I would
> >> > imagine that if it does use mechanical pots, they must be fairly dirty
> >> > by now
>
> >> I know it is a silly question, but are you SURE that the hiss isn't
> >> coming out of your amplifier?
> >> (have you put a scope on the speaker lines or substituted either speaker
> >> or amp?)
>
> >>  From your description, it isn't clear to me that you have eliminated the
> >> 'more obvious' possibility that your amplifier is putting out white
> >> noise, perhaps intermittently varying in amplitude.- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Yeah, switching one speaker pretty much solved that one.
>
> What, solved it as in proved that the amplifier *was* the cause, or solved
> it as in it wasn't ?
>
> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

When I took out the speaker and put in another one, the hissing sound
stopped? When I put the speaker in again, the hissing sound started
again

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 9:35 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Amanda Ripanykhazov" <dmanzaluni@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:7b33e37c-d03a-4938-aa3a-761ada39d91e@5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...
> On Jul 26, 4:11 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> "Amanda Ripanykhazov" <dmanzal...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:8f36b444-2b05-4f98-85e1-d79583ce9c63@g19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jul 24, 7:21 am, bz <WQAHBGMXS...@spammotel.com> wrote:
>> >> Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
>> >> > Anyone know what this means? This hissing sound isnt constant, it is
>> >> > irregular: It isnt related to the music or any movement of the cone
>> >> > or any signal put through it, though it doesnt happen when no sound
>> >> > is
>> >> > put through the speaker.
>>
>> >> > Frankly it sounds more mechancial than electronic (as if there is
>> >> > something behind there!) but as I say, it isnt related to whatever
>> >> > is
>> >> > coming through the speaker though it does increase and decrease with
>> >> > adjustment of the volume control. Andit is louder than most signals
>> >> > put through the woofer itself??
>>
>> >> > Is it indicative of some pot in the crossover needing cleaning or is
>> >> > there something else going on please? (I have seen reference to
>> >> > people
>> >> > improving the sound of AR11s by bypassing the tone controls in the
>> >> > speaker completely). This speaker is quite elderly and I would
>> >> > imagine that if it does use mechanical pots, they must be fairly
>> >> > dirty
>> >> > by now
>>
>> >> I know it is a silly question, but are you SURE that the hiss isn't
>> >> coming out of your amplifier?
>> >> (have you put a scope on the speaker lines or substituted either
>> >> speaker
>> >> or amp?)
>>
>> >> From your description, it isn't clear to me that you have eliminated
>> >> the
>> >> 'more obvious' possibility that your amplifier is putting out white
>> >> noise, perhaps intermittently varying in amplitude.- Hide quoted
>> >> text -
>>
>> >> - Show quoted text -
>>
>> > Yeah, switching one speaker pretty much solved that one.
>>
>> What, solved it as in proved that the amplifier *was* the cause, or
>> solved
>> it as in it wasn't ?
>>
>> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> When I took out the speaker and put in another one, the hissing sound
> stopped? When I put the speaker in again, the hissing sound started
> again

I don't suppose that you are just comparing apples and oranges here, are you
? All amplifiers hiss to some degree - generally, although not always,
semiconductor ones more so than tube ones. It's not unusual for one channel
to be a little noisier than the other, so you might hear it more on one side
than the other. If you swap a different speaker onto the hissy channel, the
one that you are swapping in, might not have as good a frequency response as
the one you are taking off, so you might not hear the hiss, and think that
you've cured a problem that's not really there in the first place. I guess
you could also have a defective tweeter or crossover in the speaker that you
*think* is good, because it doesn't hiss, when in fact it is actually bad,
because it's not managing to reproduce the hiss that is a characteristic of
the amp, whereas the other one that you think is bad *is* reproducing it.

If you see what I mean ...

Can you hear hiss in headphones plugged into it ? If so, is it equal between
channels. Does it change depending on what input you have selected on the
amp ? Have you tried swapping the speakers that are always connected to the
system, between channels, rather than swapping in different speakers of
possibly unknown condition and specification. One thing at a time, is the
way forward with this sort of 'problem'

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 9:43 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <7b33e37c-d03a-4938-aa3a-761ada39d91e@5g2000yqz.googlegroups.com>, Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzaluni@googlemail.com> wrote:
>On Jul 26, 4:11=A0am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> "Amanda Ripanykhazov" <dmanzal...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:8f36b444-2b05-4f98-85e1-d79583ce9c63@g19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jul 24, 7:21 am, bz <WQAHBGMXS...@spammotel.com> wrote:
>> >> Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
>> >> > Anyone know what this means? This hissing sound isnt constant, it is
>> >> > irregular: =A0It isnt related to the music or any movement of the co=
>ne
>> >> > or any signal put through it, though it doesnt happen when no sound =
>is
>> >> > put through the speaker.
>>
>> >> > Frankly it sounds more mechancial than electronic (as if there is
>> >> > something behind there!) but as I say, it isnt related to whatever i=
>s
>> >> > coming through the speaker though it does increase and decrease with
>> >> > adjustment of the volume control. =A0Andit is louder than most signa=
>ls
>> >> > put through the woofer itself??
>>
>> >> > Is it indicative of some pot in the crossover needing cleaning or is
>> >> > there something else going on please? (I have seen reference to peop=
>le
>> >> > improving the sound of AR11s by bypassing the tone controls in the
>> >> > speaker completely). =A0This speaker is quite elderly and I would
>> >> > imagine that if it does use mechanical pots, they must be fairly dir=
>ty
>> >> > by now
>>
>> >> I know it is a silly question, but are you SURE that the hiss isn't
>> >> coming out of your amplifier?
>> >> (have you put a scope on the speaker lines or substituted either speak=
>er
>> >> or amp?)
>>
>> >> =A0From your description, it isn't clear to me that you have eliminate=
>d the
>> >> 'more obvious' possibility that your amplifier is putting out white
>> >> noise, perhaps intermittently varying in amplitude.- Hide quoted text =
>-
>>
>> >> - Show quoted text -
>>
>> > Yeah, switching one speaker pretty much solved that one.
>>
>> What, solved it as in proved that the amplifier *was* the cause, or solve=
>d
>> it as in it wasn't ?
>>
>> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>When I took out the speaker and put in another one, the hissing sound
>stopped? When I put the speaker in again, the hissing sound started
>again

I don't know if my question was ever answered. Where is the hissing
comming from ? Behind speakers means behind the box.

If you can't tell from listening, use a piece of tubing to get location.
You can get it down to less than an inch.

greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Isopropyl Alcohol for Cleaning Flux
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a3663fd81cf5bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 6:09 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <jrmu469u6g971p30bt3i94oool6vj2k8ub@4ax.com>, "krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
>On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:50:11 GMT, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
>
>>In article <g31s46p08a2d3iasq94q31guq46k07n7ra@4ax.com>,
> "krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
>>>On Mon, 26 Jul 2010 19:04:22 GMT, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:
>>>
>>>>In article <slrni4rlsb.9v8.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>, gsm@mendelson.com
> wrote:
>>>>>GregS wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> 95% is a very good figure. I actually use the NON-denatured stuff.
>>>>>
>>>>>How about the drinking stuff? (95% "grain" alcohol).
>>>>>
>>>>>Here I can by a "fifth" (750ml) for less than 250ml of 70% Isopropyl.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Yes I was reffering to the ethanol drinkable stuff that is not taxed.
>>>>Been used for years in medical parties.
>>>
>>>Not a wise move. The un-taxed stuff (not for human consumption) often
>>>contains benzene.
>>
>>Thats the 99% stuff that contains benzene.
>
>Much of the untaxed ethanol uses the benzene process.

None of the 95%.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hot Sexy Star Aishwarya Rai Bathing Videos In All Angles
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8043b3305ab32490?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 6:12 am
From: money mania

Hot Sexy Star Aishwarya Rai Bathing Videos In All Angles At
http://lifeisbeatiful.co.cc

Due to high sex content, i have hidden the videos in an image. in
that
website on Top Side search box Above click on image and watch
videos in all angles.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repairing flexible pcb connector track?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 7:17 am
From: "Ian P"

In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip HD
camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a mylar?
flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very accessible but the bad
bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm pitch! Ideally one would
just replace the flex pcb but in practice that would involve dismantling the
camera and lens to get to all the places the pcb branches out to, and in
some places it actually goes into the lens mechanism itself.

I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the copper
then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra strip. My other
idea is to make my own miniature insulation displacement/piercing connector
using a stack of razor blade bits sandwiched with insulation layers.

The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this could
only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in view of
the small sizes involved.

I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has any.

Cheers

Ian

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 7:47 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?

What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though it
shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into individual
"strands" while it's still liquid?

I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might not
matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.

I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it aside
and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to forget about
this problem for the time being.

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 7:56 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:47:37 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

> This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?
>
> What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though it
> shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into individual
> "strands" while it's still liquid?
>
> I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might
> not matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.
>
> I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it
> aside and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to
> forget about this problem for the time being.

Flexible pcb connector as in a ribbon connector? I've had some limited
success repairing these with conductive paint designed to repair
automotive window heaters.

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 8:06 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ian P <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bdgspFuetU1@mid.individual.net...
> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip
HD
> camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a mylar?
> flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very accessible but the bad
> bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm pitch! Ideally one would
> just replace the flex pcb but in practice that would involve dismantling
the
> camera and lens to get to all the places the pcb branches out to, and in
> some places it actually goes into the lens mechanism itself.
>
> I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the copper
> then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra strip. My other
> idea is to make my own miniature insulation displacement/piercing
connector
> using a stack of razor blade bits sandwiched with insulation layers.
>
> The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this
could
> only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in view of
> the small sizes involved.
>
> I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has
any.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Ian
>
>

Assuming you're not in a stripline-type situation with ground plane/rf
considerations, try plaiting some magnet wire and soldering to the 3 pcb
solder points at either end of the plaited section of "ribbon", you may
have to make a hole through the pcb though.

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 9:07 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bdgspFuetU1@mid.individual.net...
> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip
> HD camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a
> mylar? flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very accessible but
> the bad bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm pitch! Ideally
> one would just replace the flex pcb but in practice that would involve
> dismantling the camera and lens to get to all the places the pcb branches
> out to, and in some places it actually goes into the lens mechanism
> itself.
>
> I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the copper
> then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra strip. My other
> idea is to make my own miniature insulation displacement/piercing
> connector using a stack of razor blade bits sandwiched with insulation
> layers.
>
> The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this
> could only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in
> view of the small sizes involved.
>
> I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has
> any.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Ian
>
>

Based on my experience of trying to repair accidental damage to flexiprints
(yes, it happens to us all no matter how long we've been in the game and how
experienced we are !) I think that you are going to struggle to get a fix on
one of that tiny pitch. I have had plenty of success with abrading and
soldering ones of a slightly greater pitch, doing it with a tiny
needle-point soldering tip and under a microscope, and using a single strand
from superflex instrument cable, such as is used for better quality meter
leads, for instance.

I don't know whether this is a commercial job, or one for a friend, or maybe
even for yourself, but before you commit to any strategy that's going to
waste a lot of time, and end up with no fix at the end of it anyway, the job
would probably stand being left for a day or two, before revisiting it with
a clear head, to look at how hard replacing the flexiprint would *really*
be. I've often found that things that look as though they are going to be a
copper-bottomed-gold-plated bitch to do, are actually not so bad, when
looked at again after you've calmed down, and forced a degree of 'san fairy
ann' into your head over it. If you have a copy of the service manual or can
obtain one, a look at the parts list will tell you if replacement is even an
option (if you're really unlucky it might be an integral part of the lens
assembly) and if it is available, a look at the exploded view diagram, would
be helpful to determine how many 'hidden' branches the flexiprint has, and
where they go.

I really feel for you on this one. I've been there many times over the years
...

Good luck with it, and please post back, and let us know how you get on with
it :-\

Arfa

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 10:16 am
From: "Ian P"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i2s4a7$8q9$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?
>
> What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though it
> shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into individual
> "strands" while it's still liquid?
>
> I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might not
> matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.
>
> I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it aside
> and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to forget about
> this problem for the time being.
>
>

William

I too wondered about how conductive zebra strip is but considered it for
this because the tracks are so narrow they are probably only carrying logic
level signals whereas some of the other tracks in this particular flex are
over 1.5mm wide.

It 'happened' several days ago so have got over the initial shock and
annoyance with myself. I am not rushing in until feel right.

Ian

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 10:19 am
From: "Ian P"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.07.29.14.56.20@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:47:37 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
>> This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?
>>
>> What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though it
>> shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into individual
>> "strands" while it's still liquid?
>>
>> I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might
>> not matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.
>>
>> I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it
>> aside and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to
>> forget about this problem for the time being.
>
> Flexible pcb connector as in a ribbon connector? I've had some limited
> success repairing these with conductive paint designed to repair
> automotive window heaters.

Its a paper thin flexible pcb, golden brown in colour which I think is made
from Mylar. Because of the narrowness of the tracks and their spacing I
doubt it could be done with paint.

Ian

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 10:24 am
From: "Ian P"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i2s5e6$b1d$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Ian P <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:8bdgspFuetU1@mid.individual.net...
>> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip
> HD
>> camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a
>> mylar?
>> flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very accessible but the
>> bad
>> bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm pitch! Ideally one would
>> just replace the flex pcb but in practice that would involve dismantling
> the
>> camera and lens to get to all the places the pcb branches out to, and in
>> some places it actually goes into the lens mechanism itself.
>>
>> I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the copper
>> then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra strip. My
>> other
>> idea is to make my own miniature insulation displacement/piercing
> connector
>> using a stack of razor blade bits sandwiched with insulation layers.
>>
>> The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this
> could
>> only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in view of
>> the small sizes involved.
>>
>> I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has
> any.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>>
>>
>> Ian
>>
>>
>
>
> Assuming you're not in a stripline-type situation with ground plane/rf
> considerations, try plaiting some magnet wire and soldering to the 3 pcb
> solder points at either end of the plaited section of "ribbon", you may
> have to make a hole through the pcb though.
>

Its just low level analogue signals but the break is close to the end of the
ribbon where the tracks are gold plated to fit in the board connector. The
copper conductors are encapsulated in the Mylar and drilling through the
track which is only 0.004" wide would not be easy!

Ian

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jul 29 2010 10:33 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> It happened several days ago so have got over the initial shock
> and annoyance with myself. I am not rushing in until feel right.

Good. That means you'll probably come up with the "least bad" solution.

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