sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

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TOPIC: paypal wholesale NIKE (paypal payment)( http://www.24hours-buy.com/ )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/79f4b8d1c0bd680d?hl=en
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TOPIC: STA5141 , TO5 transistor from 1974
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/afb089d26be1db16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 12:53 am
From: "N_Cook"

In the pa of HH HA100 amp from 1974, probably ok but cannot find any info on
it, just maybe STA6141, a bit indistinct

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 1:21 am
From: "N_Cook"

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i38htv$pbu$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> In the pa of HH HA100 amp from 1974, probably ok but cannot find any info
on
> it, just maybe STA6141, a bit indistinct
>
>

Logo on this and the other contemporaneous TO5 of 2N3440 and 2N5415 is
indistinct that at first sight looks like curvey M but is STT or SIT or STI
with shaded and sloping capital letters melded together

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is this strange encoder motor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c033e5f3d5b31265?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 12:54 am
From: "Karl Townsend"

...
> I would bore the hole for the threads, then counter-bore and ream to a
> light press fit of some handy drill rod. Then I'd make a bushing out of
> the handy drill rod and press it (lightly) into the hole. Then I'd say
> "whoa, look! a stepped shaft!" and I'd bolt an encoder disk to it.
>

This is the best route to go. I did this to a 7.5 hp lathe spindle motor.

Karl

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 4:32 am
From: Ignoramus30076

On 2010-08-03, Karl Townsend <karltownsend.NOT@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> ...
>> I would bore the hole for the threads, then counter-bore and ream to a
>> light press fit of some handy drill rod. Then I'd make a bushing out of
>> the handy drill rod and press it (lightly) into the hole. Then I'd say
>> "whoa, look! a stepped shaft!" and I'd bolt an encoder disk to it.
>>
>
> This is the best route to go. I did this to a 7.5 hp lathe spindle motor.
>

Should be one evening's job with this little servo motor.

How would I pick a drill and reamer to make a press fit hole for, say,
a 1/4" shaft?

Say, McMaster has two reamers, 0.248" and 0.2495", for a 1/4" dowel
pin. Which one should I use?

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:14 am
From: "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30076@NOSPAM.30076.invalid> fired this volley in
news:VsOdnUImjYrDY8rRnZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@giganews.com:

> Say, McMaster has two reamers, 0.248" and 0.2495", for a 1/4" dowel
> pin. Which one should I use?

If you use the small one, at only 1/4", it'll take a lot of heat to get
the hole to expand that one thou or so you'll have left to go. You'll
also have to work with confidence and speed when you press it on.

Some guys would use the larger one, and a drop of Loctite to secure the
joint. It won't be under any significant load.

Just for G.P.s, I'd figure getting a .250+ hole out of the .2495 reamer
unless _everything_ in the setup was spot-on.

One trick is to heat the work before reaming with the optimum-size reamer
(and keep it hot during reaming, so it doesn't seize up on the tool).
When the piece cools, it will be exactly the amount undersized to fit up
the way you want.

LLoyd

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:23 am
From: Ignoramus30076

On 2010-08-03, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
> Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30076@NOSPAM.30076.invalid> fired this volley in
> news:VsOdnUImjYrDY8rRnZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@giganews.com:
>
>> Say, McMaster has two reamers, 0.248" and 0.2495", for a 1/4" dowel
>> pin. Which one should I use?
>
> If you use the small one, at only 1/4", it'll take a lot of heat to get
> the hole to expand that one thou or so you'll have left to go. You'll
> also have to work with confidence and speed when you press it on.
>
> Some guys would use the larger one, and a drop of Loctite to secure the
> joint. It won't be under any significant load.
>
> Just for G.P.s, I'd figure getting a .250+ hole out of the .2495 reamer
> unless _everything_ in the setup was spot-on.
>
> One trick is to heat the work before reaming with the optimum-size reamer
> (and keep it hot during reaming, so it doesn't seize up on the tool).
> When the piece cools, it will be exactly the amount undersized to fit up
> the way you want.

Lloyd, I cannot heat it, it is a motor shaft mounted in the motor.

I think that .2495 and loctite would be perfect.

So, .2495 reamer, 1/4" dowel pin, and what drill should I use for
initial drilling of the hole?

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:54 am
From: "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30076@NOSPAM.30076.invalid> fired this volley in
news:ltydnfJvi6Ojl8XRnZ2dnUVZ_oadnZ2d@giganews.com:

> So, .2495 reamer, 1/4" dowel pin, and what drill should I use for
> initial drilling of the hole?

Unless that's a really short-shafted "pancake" motor, you're going to
play hell setting it up to run true for the initial spotting, unless
you've got enough shaft sticking out to mount the outboard end in a
steady rest.

For that purpose, you should use a short, stiff "spotting drill". A
center drill will work. But if you want the hole not only true in size,
but also perfectly centered in the work, you should bore it to reaming
size, not drill it. (pre-drill, of course...) That's a teensy boring
tool.

Somehow, I envisioned turning a "hub" type shaft extension, and pressing
it ONTO rather than INTO the motor shaft. That would be a lot more
accurate to set up and make, and wouln't involve modifying the motor
itself (along with the concomittant problems of getting a heavy weight on
a relatively long spindle to run true in total overhang.

If you did it the way I envisioned, then you could even mount the whole
affair between centers after joining, to true everything up and finish
the stub shaft to size.

LLoyd

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 6:03 am
From: Ignoramus30076

On 2010-08-03, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
> Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30076@NOSPAM.30076.invalid> fired this volley in
> news:ltydnfJvi6Ojl8XRnZ2dnUVZ_oadnZ2d@giganews.com:
>
>> So, .2495 reamer, 1/4" dowel pin, and what drill should I use for
>> initial drilling of the hole?
>
> Unless that's a really short-shafted "pancake" motor, you're going to
> play hell setting it up to run true for the initial spotting, unless
> you've got enough shaft sticking out to mount the outboard end in a
> steady rest.
>
> For that purpose, you should use a short, stiff "spotting drill". A
> center drill will work. But if you want the hole not only true in size,
> but also perfectly centered in the work, you should bore it to reaming
> size, not drill it. (pre-drill, of course...) That's a teensy boring
> tool.

I can have up to 0.01" shaft error.

> Somehow, I envisioned turning a "hub" type shaft extension, and pressing
> it ONTO rather than INTO the motor shaft.

I cannot do it, the shaft sticks out only by 1 mm or so.

> That would be a lot more accurate to set up and make, and wouln't
> involve modifying the motor itself (along with the concomittant
> problems of getting a heavy weight on a relatively long spindle to
> run true in total overhang.

I would do it on a mill, not on a lathe. 0.01" is not space age
accuracy, I think that I can do it.

> If you did it the way I envisioned, then you could even mount the whole
> affair between centers after joining, to true everything up and finish
> the stub shaft to size.

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 6:39 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 17:56:29 -0700, Tim Wescott wrote:

> My educated guess is that it is a resolver.

That's exactly what it is. Would be a three phase motor to give the
electronics part of the Machinery precise info on speed and position
by calculating phase angles and such. Every CNC machine has them in one
form or another.

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 1:43 pm
From: Jon Elson

Ignoramus18921 wrote:

> Tim, how much angular accuracy could I get from this resolver, in
> pulses per revolution?
>
The AD2S1200 converter chip I use in my converter board gives 4096
quadrature counts/rev, with an index pulse.

Jon

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 2:10 pm
From: Ignoramus30076

On 2010-08-03, Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> wrote:
> Ignoramus18921 wrote:
>
>> Tim, how much angular accuracy could I get from this resolver, in
>> pulses per revolution?
>>
> The AD2S1200 converter chip I use in my converter board gives 4096
> quadrature counts/rev, with an index pulse.

Sounds like a luxury item.

I already bought this converter from you. Things seemingly are going
well.

Igor

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TOPIC: Dell 1905FP Monitor, How to open the cover and repair power-off
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/10e0727f78b6976d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 4:32 am
From: "Kall, Mogens"

"Mat" wrote ...

Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010, CET 02:40, GMT 00:40
news:pan.2010.08.03.00.40.51.839000@nowherexcv.net
http://groups.google.dk/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/2f298932cf84caa2
>
> On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 00:37:28 +0200, Kall, Mogens wrote:

Change language ...

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=en&tl=fr&u=http://groups.google.dk/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/aee2557b611c8676

> > Heysan,
> >
> > This newsletter is created just in case, if someone need the informations.
> >
> > 1.
> > How to open the cover
> >
> > The monitor can be separated by sliding a thick guitar (plastic) pick along
> > the edge where the two halves meet.
> >
> > See perhaps picture ...
> > https://sites.google.com/site/kallfiles1/technology/computer/monitor/repair/dell-1905-fp/how-to-open-the-cover
> >
> > 2.
> > How to repair power-off
> >
> > I found 3 defect capacittors (10v 1000 µF), named C823, C824 and C825
> > and replaced them with 16v 1000 µF.
> >
> > See perhaps picture ...
> > https://sites.google.com/site/kallfiles1/technology/computer/monitor/repair/dell-1905-fp/power-off
> >
> >
> > With kind regards,
> > Mogens Kall, The servant of Michael.
>
> How did you determine the capacitors were defective? Visually or test?
>

(Sorry, but my english is very bad, but I shall try to do my best:)

Well, ...

As You can see on my website, I found some advice, before I started,
so I knew, what I perhaps should look after.

(The advise was not so easy to find and a "little" bit defuse.)

when I opened the cover, there were non capacitors (10v 100 µF), but on
the output voltage, there was another one (10v 1000 µF).

It looked like, it was going to blow up, and this is normaly a sign of defect.

(2 other capacitore looked in the same way.)

So my answer is ... visually.

I tested then afterwards, and non of them seems to be wrong (on low voltage)!

But because of the advice, I replaced them, and the monitor then worked
again ... :-)

File no: 11424

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TOPIC: Supper Cooling Radion GPU in HP Pavilion tx2350ea Laptop - How to ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dd36c5466aa61918?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:41 am
From: mbegz@noaddress.com

Hi all,

I have this Laptop which has given up the ghost immediately two days
after its warranty expiring. To cut the long story short, I have
ordered another mobo. The original heat sink method for GPU on this
mobo is thermal pad which I think is very inefficient, causing lots of
laptop failure and HP has, I believe withdrawn this laptop from the
market.

There is a gap of about 1mm between the GPU and heat sink, and the
surface of the heat sink is not flat for the obvious reason that it is
meant for thermal pad.

What alternative I have for cooling the GPU more effeciently ? Is it
possible to fill the gap with some thermal compound which would not
run or blead. Or reduce the gap with a copper shim and use thermal
paste on either side. Resurfacing the original heat sink surface is
not an option.

Appreciate your thoughts on it.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 6:45 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:41:42 +0100, mbegz wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have this Laptop which has given up the ghost immediately two days
> after its warranty expiring. To cut the long story short, I have ordered
> another mobo. The original heat sink method for GPU on this mobo is
> thermal pad which I think is very inefficient, causing lots of laptop
> failure and HP has, I believe withdrawn this laptop from the market.
>
> There is a gap of about 1mm between the GPU and heat sink, and the
> surface of the heat sink is not flat for the obvious reason that it is
> meant for thermal pad.
>
> What alternative I have for cooling the GPU more effeciently ? Is it
> possible to fill the gap with some thermal compound which would not run
> or blead. Or reduce the gap with a copper shim and use thermal paste on
> either side. Resurfacing the original heat sink surface is not an
> option.
>
> Appreciate your thoughts on it.

Direct contact with an even thin film of past is always the best.
Whatever you can do to approximate that would be the best solution.
I find it hard to believe there was a 1mm gap between the sink and the
top of the cpu, that's insanity.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 10:13 am
From: Gnack Nol

On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:45:42 +0000, Meat Plow wrote:

> On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:41:42 +0100, mbegz wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have this Laptop which has given up the ghost immediately two days
>> after its warranty expiring. To cut the long story short, I have
>> ordered another mobo. The original heat sink method for GPU on this
>> mobo is thermal pad which I think is very inefficient, causing lots of
>> laptop failure and HP has, I believe withdrawn this laptop from the
>> market.
>>
>> There is a gap of about 1mm between the GPU and heat sink, and the
>> surface of the heat sink is not flat for the obvious reason that it is
>> meant for thermal pad.
>>
>> What alternative I have for cooling the GPU more effeciently ? Is it
>> possible to fill the gap with some thermal compound which would not run
>> or blead. Or reduce the gap with a copper shim and use thermal paste on
>> either side. Resurfacing the original heat sink surface is not an
>> option.
>>
>> Appreciate your thoughts on it.
>
> Direct contact with an even thin film of past is always the best.
> Whatever you can do to approximate that would be the best solution. I
> find it hard to believe there was a 1mm gap between the sink and the top
> of the cpu, that's insanity.

Well it's just the tip of the iceburg. This has been industry practice for
at least 5 years now. They use a boron impregnated rubber pad to ease
their quick assembly builds and make careful surfacing of the heatsink
assembly unnecessary also it's street labor friendly for the building.

That is why there are so many ads for the copper shims on ebay and others
to replace the rubber goo.

The iceberg is the BGA mounting system which is totally ridiculous and
unreliable to the point of planned obsolescence run rampant. You simply
can't expect an inflexible ball of tin to manage the stresses of heat
shock and vibration without cracking and becoming unreliable.

The sea floating the iceberg is the elimination of lead from the solder
resulting in brittle easily fractured connections especially in the size
range of the solder balls that they use as pins on the leadless
intergrated circuits.

It's a designed for failure by it's very nature. Along with poor
ventilation (a laptop by nature should be able to rest on your lap
without overheating ) and then the easily clogged barely sufficient
heatsink assemblies. It's no wonder most die shortly after warranty.

Ah planned obsolescence, a wonderful profit generator for the makers and a
fist to the face of the consumers.

Gnack

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Parts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b4b067e1cc105e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:55 am
From: Chuck

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:47:46 -0600, "Vince" <vmschmitt@charter.net>
wrote:

>Hi!
> Where doI purschase Parts for Magnavox TVs?
> Thank you
> Vince
>

Try Encompass.

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 5:57 am
From: paypal cash

LONDON UNIVERSITY WOMEN'S SEX VIDEOS At http://2500videos.co.cc

Due to high sex content, i have hidden the videos in an image.
in thatwebsite on Top Side search box Above click
on image and watch videos in all angles.

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TOPIC: SMT rework
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cab4440230d769af?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 6:01 am
From: "Herman"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872@hurricane...
>
>
> "Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:i32fmn$iu8$1@news.albasani.net...
>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for occasional
>> use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot tweezers. What
>> would be the recommended tips for general use for ICs and resistors etc.
>> I do not need to do the PLLC size chips. Price $300 max or so.
>>
>
> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air
> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital readout
> for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully controllable
> temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air nozzles. Square ones
> for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit, I understand from a friend
> who also has one. Also 5 tips for the soldering iron, spare element for
> the hot air and spare element for the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it,
> so work that out in USD - about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in
> China and called dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service.
> Once it had been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than
> 24 Hrs later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station
> being built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value.
>
> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says "buy now
> for £55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall. Very satisfied
> with mine, so far.
>
> Arfa

I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil and
the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and diodes. Do the
tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used one of these stations.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Videorecorder problem - see pics
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6e566ea01f711ec0?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 6:41 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 18:41:05 -0700, stratus46 wrote:

> On Aug 2, 11:00 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 17:48:25 +0000, Mino wrote:
>> > Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> >>Those two links were pictures of a Yamaha multi-track
>> >>recorder????????
>>
>> > Yes they are and that recorder was used by a total incompetent.
>>
>> Were those pictures captured from the VTR in question? If so I guess I
>> missed the point of the pictures.
>
> Note the tearing in the time/date text from the VCR. The Yamaha is just
> there to throw us off.
>
> G²

Yeah I saw that on a second look. My fix would be to clean the video
head. If that didn't do it, pull and replace it. I started out in the VTR
repair world back when it took two people to life a U-Matic deck on the
workbench.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da2353702946722b?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 10:29 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2sc5388 equivalent?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/84cab89d21cdea76?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 10:50 am
From: b

this is from the line stage of a sanyo tv. Don't have one to hand, anu
thoughts on a suitable equivalent? datasheets has it as 1500v, 5a,
50w...nearest I have is a BU808DFI.
.B

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 3 2010 11:02 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 10:50:12 -0700, b wrote:

> this is from the line stage of a sanyo tv. Don't have one to hand, anu
> thoughts on a suitable equivalent? datasheets has it as 1500v, 5a,
> 50w...nearest I have is a BU808DFI.
> .B

I've read that the BU808DFI was part of a recommended replacement 'kit'
for improved reliability in the line output stage.

http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/view_image.html?image_id=88721&product_id=20176

--
This is a test sig

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