sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* motherboard cpu power section check - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
* Philips Plasma TV 50PF7320 help needed - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e07d6b5dc01b9044?hl=en
* Notebook fan - 8 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5c08cab8c32680dd?hl=en
* GERMAN GIRLS HOT SEX VIDEOS. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de3df5bfc5f3ff1f?hl=en
* Washing machine - beyond economic repair. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3cd8c62c3e5669d?hl=en
* For String Theory expert - theoretical physicist Michio Kaku - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6d31652e48095721?hl=en
* Lisa McCants - LOAN FRAUD (Rosewood Hudson) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a27434d9e00bbb9?hl=en
* a harmonics discussion about Lisi's E8 model - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/01769f580934575e?hl=en
* viewsonic VX800 LCD - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/53f899d96e08c6da?hl=en
* TV Power Cord - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
* Power Supply - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/210d4689440e188c?hl=en
* Grounded speaker - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9f4d24a4c198ae8?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Aug 13 2010 10:36 pm
From: "`ZACK`"

"Mike De Petris" <mikedepetris@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b76de8d0-9d51-41df-829f-0599838d7c0c@i31g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> My laptop freezes when I connect the power cord, works well on battery
> only.
>
> I want to check the motherbard in search for the faulty component,
> where could I find pinouts and voltages to check for?
>
> Toshiba Satellite A205-S4577 (PSAF0U-01Q009)
>
> Laptop Motherboard: MAIN BOARD 945GM. Main Board 945GM EXC+51 CA+MIC
> MDC 1310A2120812 Alternate Part Numbers: V000108030
>
> Processor:
> LF80537 T5300
> 5648B999 SL9WE
> 1.73/2M/533
> INTEL... copyright 06

try here

http://www.reepair.net/en/forumdisplay.php/30-Laptop-Schematics

zack

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 9:03 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 01:56:24 -0700 (PDT), Mike De Petris
<mikedepetris@gmail.com> wrote:

>My laptop freezes when I connect the power cord, works well on battery
>only.
>Toshiba Satellite A205-S4577 (PSAF0U-01Q009)

<http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Laptop-will-only-run-on-battery-freezes-when-the-ac-is-plugged/m-p/114865>
(5 pages). Lots of good suggestions some of which include successful
repairs.
More:
<http://www.fixya.com/support/t2946491-freeze_when_power_cord_plugged_in>
<http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Laptop-shuts-down-as-soon-as-adapter-plugged-in/td-p/114041>

I've seen this twice and fixed it more by accident than by intent. In
one case, I left the battery out of the laptop, and no charger plugged
in, for about a weekend. When I returned on Monday, everything
magically worked normally. In the 2nd case, I was trying various
combinations of starting the computer, with the battery, without the
battery, with both, etc. At one point, it magically started working.
That was about 1-2 years ago, and both customers are still using the
laptops.

However, I have another Toshiblah laptop in the office with similar
(not identical) problems, that I can't fix. It also won't charge the
battery, although it will run on battery if I charge it in another
laptop. The problem was traced to a crappy BGA soldering job on the
video chip. Try booting from battery in Safe Mode, and then plug in
the charger. If that works, then it's probable that you have a video
chip soldering problem. (I'm debating the merits of buying an
overpriced hot air rework station. I borrowed one, liked it, but had
to return it).

Please do not tinker with external power supplies unless you're
absolutely sure you're using the correct power plug, and the correct
voltage. I've seen what's left of the laptop when the clip leads get
swapped, or the power supply mysteriously got to maximum. It's not
pretty. The correct power supply is 19v 3.4A negative ground,
5.5/2.5/12mm connector.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Philips Plasma TV 50PF7320 help needed
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e07d6b5dc01b9044?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 3:48 am
From: Keith Thrasher

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 07:00:59 -0700 (PDT), powerampfreak wrote:

> Philips plasma TV

What's that a fandangled new thing to watch p0rn on?
--
I have multiple DUIS, beat my kids, paid $360K for a house worth $275K
got handed a divorce and a Restaining Order to keep away from all of
them. I'm 36, got a beer belly that looks like I'm pregnant 9 months.
Gawd, isn't life good!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Notebook fan
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5c08cab8c32680dd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 5:39 am
From: LSMFT

If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need to blow
it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual. I took it in the
garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out with an air hose. Lots
of dust came out of the air intake. Now it runs normal again.

--
LSMFT

I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 6:18 am
From: Keith Thrasher

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:39:38 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

> If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need to blow
> it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual. I took it in the
> garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out with an air hose. Lots
> of dust came out of the air intake. Now it runs normal again.

wow are you smart learn that it Nigger School?
--
I have multiple DUIS, beat my kids, paid $360K for a house worth $275K
got handed a divorce and a Restaining Order to keep away from all of
them. I'm 36, got a beer belly that looks like I'm pregnant 9 months.
Gawd, isn't life good!

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 6:48 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:39:38 -0400, LSMFT wrote:

> If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need to blow
> it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual. I took it in the
> garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out with an air hose. Lots
> of dust came out of the air intake. Now it runs normal again.

Unless your air source has a moisture trap as one for a paint sprayer
would, it's pretty stupid to use a shop air compressor to blow shit off
electronic stuff. Even more so with hyper-sensitive electronics found in
a computer.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 7:45 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need
> to blow it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual.
> I took it in the garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out
> with an air hose. Lots of dust came out of the air intake. Now
> it runs normal again.

It might be obvious to people in this group, but I'll say it anyhow. The
same applies to desktop computers. The CPU and graphics-card fans can
accumulate a great deal of shmutz. These can usually be cleaned out with a
cottom swab.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 8:19 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 07:45:07 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need to blow
>> it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual. I took it in the
>> garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out with an air hose.
>> Lots of dust came out of the air intake. Now it runs normal again.
>
> It might be obvious to people in this group, but I'll say it anyhow. The
> same applies to desktop computers. The CPU and graphics-card fans can
> accumulate a great deal of shmutz. These can usually be cleaned out with
> a cottom swab.

A blast of canned, compressed gas is what I use on ours in conjunction
with a vacuum crevice tool. Once a month. I built my new quad core AMD
PhenomII 955 3.2ghz a month ago and just got done cleaning it. I run the
fans slow, 2500 rpm on the CPU and run a large 120 mm fan on the back.
Nice and quiet that way but still don't see temps above 50c. My kid has a
3ghz P4. I also remove the fan from the CPU heatsink and blow dust out of
it. And around the power distribution area. As we know heat kills mobo
caps. My new Asus M4A78T-E mobo is supposed to have high quality poly
caps. It looks like it does as i don't see any of the traditional shrink-
wrapped caps inside. These are all solid metal. no seams.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 8:35 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I run the fans slow... Nice and quiet that way...

It also helps to use ball-bearing fans. Noticeably quieter, and they cost
only a little more.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 9:12 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:35:04 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> I run the fans slow... Nice and quiet that way...
>
> It also helps to use ball-bearing fans. Noticeably quieter, and they
> cost only a little more.

The 120 I tore out of a Coolmaster 650 watt PSU that belonged to my
nephew and bit the dust (no pun intended) early in life. It is a ball
bearing fan with curved blades that is very quiet. It's just a DC fan,
two wire but the Asus mobo is able to control its speed without RPM
feedback from the fan. It's all in an Antec ATX case. Lots of room. I do
have 3 SATA drives inside, two 320 gigs and one 500 gig. The case is
designed to draw cool air in and around the drive by virtue of their
location up front and they are barely warm to the touch. Lots of people
don't realize that heat is responsible for most early drive failures
barring suffering g-forces. I've had two Maxtor 160 gig PATA drives
spinning 24/7 in external fan-cooled USB 2.0 cases since 2004. These
attach to a Linksys network storage device. Keep em cool and don't bounce
them around and they will last, barring manufacture defects.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 10:23 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 08:39:38 -0400, LSMFT <boleyn7@aol.com> wrote:

>If your notebook fan starts running faster more often you need to blow
>it out. I noticed mine was running faster than usual. I took it in the
>garage, pulled off all the covers and blew it out with an air hose. Lots
>of dust came out of the air intake. Now it runs normal again.

Nicely done, but you may still have some blockage. Many laptops have
a small gap between the fan venturi outlet and a series of copper fins
connected to a heat pipe. You can see the copper fins through the
grill work. The problem is that the dust balls get stuck in between
the fan and the copper fins. I've blown these out with an air
compressor (80 psi with water trap) and still find myself having to
open the case and pull out the dust ball with tweezers.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: GERMAN GIRLS HOT SEX VIDEOS.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de3df5bfc5f3ff1f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 6:07 am
From: Hot Hot

GERMAN GIRLS HOT SEX VIDEOS At http://simpletoget.co.cc

Due to high sex content, i have hidden the videos in an image.in that
website on Right side below search box click on image and watch
videos in all angles.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Washing machine - beyond economic repair.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3cd8c62c3e5669d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 7:36 am
From: "ian field"

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:i445h8$8ie$1@reader1.panix.com...
> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> http://www.craigboyce.com/Videos/WashingMachineMayhem.shtml
>
> haha, best video I've seen this week.
>

Funnier than this one?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqjtz3rEPG0&NR=1

==============================================================================
TOPIC: For String Theory expert - theoretical physicist Michio Kaku
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6d31652e48095721?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 8:16 am
From: fitz

For String Theory expert - theoretical physicist Michio Kaku

Do the strings of String Theory act like standing waves or waves that
transmit energy?

(click link):

http://www.amperefitz.com/mwmk.htm

Also for those who like Science!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lisa McCants - LOAN FRAUD (Rosewood Hudson)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a27434d9e00bbb9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 9:30 am
From: George Orwell

ROSEWOOD HUDSON
(540) 772-7800

LOAN FRAUD ALERT

Lisa D. McCants of 2608 Wade Road #101 SE, Washington DC 20020 has engaged in loan
fraud.

She has defaulted on court ordered payment plan to CAPITAL ONE and THE DISCOVER CARD for business and personal debts.

ROSEWOOD HUDSON offers the following recommendations about Lisa McCants:

EMPLOYMENT: Do not hire her. She has POOR professional skills. In addition, you will
have to bear the burden of wage garnishments.

CONTRACTING: Do not retain her. She has POOR professional skills. In addition, your
payments may be subject to judicial seizure.

LENDING: Lisa D. McCants is a HIGH RISK borrower.

For additional information, please contact Kelly Woolwine.

Il mittente di questo messaggio|The sender address of this
non corrisponde ad un utente |message is not related to a real
reale ma all'indirizzo fittizio|person but to a fake address of an
di un sistema anonimizzatore |anonymous system
Per maggiori informazioni |For more info
https://www.mixmaster.it

==============================================================================
TOPIC: a harmonics discussion about Lisi's E8 model
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/01769f580934575e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 10:55 am
From: fitz

a harmonics discussion about Lisi's E8 model

Are we overlooking harmonics helping to cause Lisi's E8 model??

(click link):

http://www.amperefitz.com/frank.htm

For those who love Science!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: viewsonic VX800 LCD
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/53f899d96e08c6da?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 10:57 am
From: divx dude

i got these two monitors VX800 nice looking 18" LCD desktop monitors
that use an external power brick.
my research sez the brick is 12vdc at 5A.
my plan was to makeshift something, i found a 3mm?
plug to fit the power jack and wired it to the 12v drive molex line on
an old AT power supply form the 486 days pre-ATX.
the 12v rail is rated at 8A.
the grren light on the moniotor comes on but flashes display text the
POST screen on the PC flashes it only for a second.

i can repeat that 1 second by cycling the power button but thats all i
can get from it. i tried a 12v rated lass than 2A
same responce. i tried the drive molex line from the ATX supply on the
PC i'm using tot test it but no green light. i measured the volts on
that line and its like 13.5vdc or so..
there was another brick i tried also but no green light and slightly
more than 13vdc.
so the monitor is picky and refuses 13v+

i havent tried the other monitor yet. im expecting someone already
knows these are buggy and bet it probably has the same issue.

requesting any assistance u smart people can provide.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 11:23 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:57:07 -0700, divx dude wrote:

> i got these two monitors VX800 nice looking 18" LCD desktop monitors
> that use an external power brick.
> my research sez the brick is 12vdc at 5A. my plan was to makeshift
> something, i found a 3mm? plug to fit the power jack and wired it to the
> 12v drive molex line on an old AT power supply form the 486 days
> pre-ATX. the 12v rail is rated at 8A.
> the grren light on the moniotor comes on but flashes display text the
> POST screen on the PC flashes it only for a second.
>
> i can repeat that 1 second by cycling the power button but thats all i
> can get from it. i tried a 12v rated lass than 2A same responce. i tried
> the drive molex line from the ATX supply on the PC i'm using tot test it
> but no green light. i measured the volts on that line and its like
> 13.5vdc or so.. there was another brick i tried also but no green light
> and slightly more than 13vdc.
> so the monitor is picky and refuses 13v+
>
> i havent tried the other monitor yet. im expecting someone already knows
> these are buggy and bet it probably has the same issue.
>
> requesting any assistance u smart people can provide.

I was given a Sanyo VIZON 15" LCD TV without its PSU. The 4 pin
proprietary jack said 12 volts @ 2.5 amps. I managed to install a common
jack and thought I would use an old ATX supply. The ATX supply puts out
12 volts at 10 amps. When measured it was slightly higher at 12.2 volts.
I said cool and applied power to the Sanyo. All was well for a few
minutes then the backlight started to flicker. Slow at first then
faster until it reached about 2 flashes per second. I thought well the
inverter is shot. Hooked up 13.8 volts @ 1.5 amps (actually a variable
supply) and the flashing stopped at 13.3 volts.

So yes your situation could be similar. Borrow a 0 - 15 vdc supply and
see if you can dial in a voltage where the monitor will work.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 11:49 am
From: divx dude

> Hooked up 13.8 volts @ 1.5 amps (actually a variable
> supply) and the flashing stopped at 13.3 volts.
>
> So yes your situation could be similar. Borrow a 0 - 15 vdc supply and
> see if you can dial in a voltage where the monitor will work.

think i can maybe use a POT on a 13.8v supply ?
what value pot?

if put it in series after a fixed resistor 2x its value doesnt that
focus the variable to the upper 1/3 of the voltage range?
in other words would make like 9 - 13.8 vdc variable supply instead
of
0 -13.8.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 12:08 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:49:44 -0700, divx dude wrote:

>> Hooked up 13.8 volts @ 1.5 amps (actually a variable supply) and the
>> flashing stopped at 13.3 volts.
>>
>> So yes your situation could be similar. Borrow a 0 - 15 vdc supply and
>> see if you can dial in a voltage where the monitor will work.
>
>
> think i can maybe use a POT on a 13.8v supply ? what value pot?
>
> if put it in series after a fixed resistor 2x its value doesnt that
> focus the variable to the upper 1/3 of the voltage range? in other words
> would make like 9 - 13.8 vdc variable supply instead of
> 0 -13.8.

Look up Ohm's Law and calculate the values yourself.

I=V/R or V=IR or R=V/I V-voltage I-current R-resistance.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 12:37 am
From: divx dude

On Aug 14, 3:08 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 11:49:44 -0700, divx dude wrote:
> >> Hooked up 13.8 volts @ 1.5 amps (actually a variable supply) and the
> >> flashing stopped at 13.3 volts.
>
> >> So yes your situation could be similar. Borrow a 0 - 15 vdc supply and
> >> see if you can dial in a voltage where the monitor will work.
>
> > think i can maybe use a POT on a 13.8v supply ? what value pot?
>
> > if put it in series after a fixed resistor 2x its value doesnt that
> > focus the variable to the upper 1/3 of the voltage range? in other words
> > would make like 9 - 13.8 vdc  variable supply instead of
> > 0 -13.8.
>
> Look up Ohm's Law and calculate the values yourself.
>
> I=V/R or V=IR or R=V/I   V-voltage I-current R-resistance.

i guess the pot would need to be 5-10 watt , a 5k pot after 4 5k fixed
Rs would make approx 11v- 13.8v adjustable.
let me know if that sounds right, i'm shaky in this area.

i dont understand something tho.
theres a ton of generic viewsonic external DC supplies on fleebay
and non of then discuss a specific voltage other than 12v.theres
almost a differnet model for every viewsonic but the only differences
are the amp rating and the plug tips.

could it be theres a knowm magice voltage number like your 13.3vdc
that they all use that isnt widely known to the users?

almost all are around $10 shipped except mine is about $50.
it seems that is due to the unusual size of the 3mm plug tip.
i'm wondering if i just buy the $10 12v/5a supply for the different
viewsonic and hack the end off and wire a 3mm tip (have one)
if that wouldnt make it happy.

problem is i only have a 4day period to return this montior.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV Power Cord
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 4:31 pm
From: "NF"

Hi,

I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV. (An
in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the connector on
the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an exact fit, but is
the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV does work). But because
the connector is not as tight fitting as the original, the repair guy said
it is very important to have very good strain relief to avoid tension on the
cord. (I was not home when it was repaired, this is what I was told by the
person who was home.) However, when I got home, I found that the repair guy
did not put a strain relief device in the hole where the cord is supposed to
exit the TV. Instead, he deliberately wedged the cord between where the
bottom and back parts of the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief.
(The original hole where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)

Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together properly.
The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit crooked. If you lift
up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out on one side,
looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other concern is that
the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom and the back case, so
the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching this cord. So my questions
are:

Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.

Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain relief
device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?

The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could be
obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long as we
are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop called
back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no longer available,
and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back to us later,
they haven't yet.

If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a strain
relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in between the case
parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even though the
connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?

Thanks

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 8:58 pm
From: "tm"

"NF" <franklin4321@cox.net> wrote in message
news:i478vk$7og$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> Hi,
>
> I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV.
> (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the
> connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an
> exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV
> does work). But because the connector is not as tight fitting as the
> original, the repair guy said it is very important to have very good
> strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was not home when it was
> repaired, this is what I was told by the person who was home.) However,
> when I got home, I found that the repair guy did not put a strain relief
> device in the hole where the cord is supposed to exit the TV. Instead, he
> deliberately wedged the cord between where the bottom and back parts of
> the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief. (The original hole
> where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)
>
> Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together properly.
> The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit crooked. If you lift
> up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out on one side,
> looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other concern is that
> the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom and the back case,
> so the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching this cord. So my
> questions are:
>
> Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
> conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
>
> Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
> relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
>
> The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could be
> obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long as we
> are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop called
> back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no longer
> available, and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back to
> us later, they haven't yet.
>
> If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a strain
> relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in between the case
> parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even though the
> connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?
>
> Thanks
>
>

Make sure the batteries in your smoke detectors are fresh.

And your insurance is paid up.

geesh!

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power Supply
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/210d4689440e188c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 14 2010 8:10 pm
From: "Vince"

Hi!
Can anone tell m what the voltage should be on the sweep board on a
Magnavox Mdl 31MF231D HD TV?
The most voltage I can get is 24 volts.
Thank You
Vince

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Grounded speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9f4d24a4c198ae8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 12:42 am
From: "N_Cook"

Peavey mod 054 in a Basic 122, one side of the voive coil grounded to the
basket and hence the magnetised polepiece. Ok it strengthens the spade
terminal strip but why risk a blown voice coil, from current surges, from
wire/s touching rust or swarf flecks, when it may well survive just the
abrassion? Or is there some acoustic or amp stability relevance?

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