sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Grounded speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9f4d24a4c198ae8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 12:42 am
From: "N_Cook"

Peavey mod 054 in a Basic 122, one side of the voive coil grounded to the
basket and hence the magnetised polepiece. Ok it strengthens the spade
terminal strip but why risk a blown voice coil, from current surges, from
wire/s touching rust or swarf flecks, when it may well survive just the
abrassion? Or is there some acoustic or amp stability relevance?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 8:21 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:42:26 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Peavey mod 054 in a Basic 122, one side of the voive coil grounded to
> the basket and hence the magnetised polepiece. Ok it strengthens the
> spade terminal strip but why risk a blown voice coil, from current
> surges, from wire/s touching rust or swarf flecks, when it may well
> survive just the abrassion? Or is there some acoustic or amp stability
> relevance?

An abraded VC isn't going to survive long in a guitar amp so it really
makes no difference to me if the minus lug is common with the basket.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: viewsonic VX800 LCD
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/53f899d96e08c6da?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 1:32 am
From: divx dude

ummm...

this is not a supply issue.
as discussed in other LCD brands a inverter problem is detected by
pressing a flashlight onto the screen to detect display text etc.

i did and i did.

omg..
its full of werds
theres werds in there.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 8:19 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 01:32:24 -0700, divx dude wrote:

> ummm...
>
>
>
> this is not a supply issue.
> as discussed in other LCD brands a inverter problem is detected by
> pressing a flashlight onto the screen to detect display text etc.
>
> i did and i did.
>
> omg..
> its full of werds
> theres werds in there.

That was the problem with giving the Sanyo VIZON less than 13.3 volts
even though the input voltage printed above the DC jack said 12v.
If you have an inverter problem more often than not it will prevent the
monitor from operating without backlight.

I'd guess that these VX800's have a common inverter malfunction if you
got two of them with the same symptoms. As far as my Sanyo goes, flashing
backlight at anything between 12 - 13 vdc the work around was to give it
13.8 volts. I don't have the original PSU nor the actual voltage specs.
But one would think that if it called for 12 that's what it needed, not
13.8.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 1:55 pm
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 10:57:07 -0700 (PDT), divx dude
<divx.dude@gmail.com> wrote:

>i got these two monitors VX800 nice looking 18" LCD desktop monitors
>that use an external power brick.
>my research sez the brick is 12vdc at 5A.
>my plan was to makeshift something, i found a 3mm?
>plug to fit the power jack and wired it to the 12v drive molex line on
>an old AT power supply form the 486 days pre-ATX.
>the 12v rail is rated at 8A.
>the grren light on the moniotor comes on but flashes display text the
>POST screen on the PC flashes it only for a second.
>
>i can repeat that 1 second by cycling the power button but thats all i
>can get from it. i tried a 12v rated lass than 2A
>same responce. i tried the drive molex line from the ATX supply on the
>PC i'm using tot test it but no green light. i measured the volts on
>that line and its like 13.5vdc or so..
>there was another brick i tried also but no green light and slightly
>more than 13vdc.
>so the monitor is picky and refuses 13v+
>
>i havent tried the other monitor yet. im expecting someone already
>knows these are buggy and bet it probably has the same issue.
>
>requesting any assistance u smart people can provide.
Other than the substitute power supply, this is the classic 'two
seconds to black' scenario. A backlight inverter is essentially a
constant-current AC source with protection features to detect an open
lamp or excessive current. The protection is disabled for about two
seconds when the backlights are activated to allow the system to reach
a steady state. Thus, a persistant fault results in 'two seconds to
black.

Possible faults include bad electrolytic caps on the inverter, one or
more bad CCFLs, a bad solder joint on the CCFLs, a bad inverter
transformer, a shorted transistor, or the real fun possibility, a
defective component in the protection circuitry. In theory, slightly
high or low voltage should not cause the problem, but it shouldn't be
ignored.

The first step is to open the monitors up and look for obvious
problems, especially bulging caps. Then you try arranging the
monitors in such a manner that you can hook one or more of the CCFLs
from monitor A to the inverter in monitor B. If one of the CCFLs in
monitor A will result in monitor B working normally you have
identified a problem.

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SOIC IC identification hints and tips ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/425d3e22b0c7e134?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 1:54 am
From: "N_Cook"

Has anyone collected together a guide for such as these I've determined,
for expanding minimized top mark to full classification

The index mark on SOIC consisting of a depression with a Napoleonic N with a
broad diagonal
means NEC and for C... read uPC... or no letter just 3 or 4 digit digit
number, again maybe uPC prefix

SMD markings of 565A, 665A and 563D, 663D logo of a fractured italic M for
Mitsumi
are MM1665AH, MM1565AF, MM1563DF and MM1663DH

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 2:12 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 15, 6:03 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> >My laptop freezes when I connect the power cord, works well on battery
> >only.
> >Toshiba Satellite A205-S4577 (PSAF0U-01Q009)

thanks to your suggestions, I did a BIG step forward, I had a try at
this:
"In SafeMode Goto control panel--> device manager---> goto
processor----> disable one of the two processors --> reboot normally.
This FIXED the problem, but 1processor is not really a great fix; more
of a work around."

And IT WORKS, pc is now running on external power at the moment, a
thing that I've never seen on it. I tryed disabling a cpu core in BIOS
in the past unsuccesfully, but disableng from devmgmt.msc fixed it.

I do not think it can be a ripple problem because it did not boot at
all when connected on power, but who know? Still have to understand if
it is:
- faulty cpu
- faulty cpu power section
- bad cpu/other microcode

I would try to see with scope and multimeter but still don't know
exactly what and where to look for.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 8:13 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 02:12:28 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

> On Aug 15, 6:03 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> >My laptop freezes when I connect the power cord, works well on battery
>> >only.
>> >Toshiba Satellite A205-S4577 (PSAF0U-01Q009)
>
> thanks to your suggestions, I did a BIG step forward, I had a try at
> this:
> "In SafeMode Goto control panel--> device manager---> goto
> processor----> disable one of the two processors --> reboot normally.
> This FIXED the problem, but 1processor is not really a great fix; more
> of a work around."
>
> And IT WORKS, pc is now running on external power at the moment, a thing
> that I've never seen on it. I tryed disabling a cpu core in BIOS in the
> past unsuccesfully, but disableng from devmgmt.msc fixed it.
>
> I do not think it can be a ripple problem because it did not boot at all
> when connected on power, but who know? Still have to understand if it
> is:
> - faulty cpu
> - faulty cpu power section
> - bad cpu/other microcode
>
> I would try to see with scope and multimeter but still don't know
> exactly what and where to look for.

Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 9:25 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.

1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 9:46 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>
> 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300

Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz single
core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode the RAM and
the CPU process at 1 ghz.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple hack to get $3000 to your paypal account..
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a02f4937cf6003d9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 4:44 am
From: SUHASINI

Simple hack to get $3000 to your paypal account at http://lifeisbeatiful.co.cc

i have hidden the paypal form link in an image.
in that website on Right Side below search box,
click on image and enter your name and paypal id.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: bose 3 2 1, (password override instructions),,
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3127a61e0c0c9e78?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 5:07 am
From: "ctops.legal"

I just wanted to post this, it may not be how Bose does it but it
worked;

Forgot Parental DVD control password/pin.

1. Insert blank DVD/R or DVD/RW.

2. Press settings.

3. Go to DVD setup menu.

4. Change password/pin to your new password.

Note: Their is no "defalt" password.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV Power Cord
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 8:23 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, NF wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV.
> (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the
> connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an
> exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV
> does work). But because the connector is not as tight fitting as the
> original, the repair guy said it is very important to have very good
> strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was not home when it was
> repaired, this is what I was told by the person who was home.) However,
> when I got home, I found that the repair guy did not put a strain relief
> device in the hole where the cord is supposed to exit the TV. Instead,
> he deliberately wedged the cord between where the bottom and back parts
> of the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief. (The original
> hole where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)
>
> Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together
> properly. The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit crooked.
> If you lift up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out on
> one side, looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other
> concern is that the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom
> and the back case, so the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching
> this cord. So my questions are:
>
> Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
> conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
>
> Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
> relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
>
> The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could
> be obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long
> as we are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop
> called back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no longer
> available, and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back
> to us later, they haven't yet.
>
> If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a
> strain relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in between
> the case parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even
> though the connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?
>
> Thanks

Keep a class ABC fire extinguisher handy and you should be ok.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 4:12 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> writes:

> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, NF wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV.
> > (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the
> > connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an
> > exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV
> > does work). But because the connector is not as tight fitting as the
> > original, the repair guy said it is very important to have very good
> > strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was not home when it was
> > repaired, this is what I was told by the person who was home.) However,
> > when I got home, I found that the repair guy did not put a strain relief
> > device in the hole where the cord is supposed to exit the TV. Instead,
> > he deliberately wedged the cord between where the bottom and back parts
> > of the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief. (The original
> > hole where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)
> >
> > Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together
> > properly. The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit crooked.
> > If you lift up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out on
> > one side, looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other
> > concern is that the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom
> > and the back case, so the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching
> > this cord. So my questions are:
> >
> > Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
> > conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
> >
> > Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
> > relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
> >
> > The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could
> > be obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long
> > as we are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop
> > called back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no longer
> > available, and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back
> > to us later, they haven't yet.
> >
> > If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a
> > strain relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in between
> > the case parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even
> > though the connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?
> >
> > Thanks
>
> Keep a class ABC fire extinguisher handy and you should be ok.

To answer the poster's question. It is the responsibility of the shop
to perform a safe repair. What you describe may or may not be safe but
is certainly not professional.

Insist that they either install a properly fitting cord or if indeed it
isn't made any longer (which sounds suspect but I don't know how old
the set is), then there are various workarounds they could have done
that would have been both safe and looked decent cosmetically.

It sounds like they just wanted to get away with the simplest fastest
repair possible without regard to how safe it was or how it looked.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 5:10 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
> conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.

No, not particularly. I wouldn't call it seriously dangerous, but it's
unprofessional and could lead to damage of the set or injury to a person if
the cord were to be snagged or tripped over.

> Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
relief
> device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?

No. A proper strain relief needs to be installed. The one from the old cord
can sometimes be removed and reused.

You may want to check with Sony parts to see if the right cord is really
available. I would not be surprised if it was and this shop was being lazy.

William

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 5:29 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:12:39 -0400, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> writes:
>
>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, NF wrote:
>>
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube
>> > TV. (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that
>> > the connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is
>> > not an exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And
>> > yes, the TV does work). But because the connector is not as tight
>> > fitting as the original, the repair guy said it is very important to
>> > have very good strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was not
>> > home when it was repaired, this is what I was told by the person who
>> > was home.) However, when I got home, I found that the repair guy did
>> > not put a strain relief device in the hole where the cord is supposed
>> > to exit the TV. Instead, he deliberately wedged the cord between
>> > where the bottom and back parts of the case meet. This was his idea
>> > for strain relief. (The original hole where the cord used to exit is
>> > now just an empty hole.)
>> >
>> > Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together
>> > properly. The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit
>> > crooked. If you lift up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom
>> > bulging out on one side, looking like it's going to break the plastic
>> > tab. My other concern is that the cord is wedged between a protrusion
>> > of the bottom and the back case, so the 100lbs of weight from this TV
>> > is now pinching this cord. So my questions are:
>> >
>> > Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
>> > conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
>> >
>> > Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
>> > relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
>> >
>> > The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord
>> > could be obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself.
>> > (As long as we are not charged for another service call or more
>> > labor.) The shop called back after a day and said the exact
>> > replacement cord is no longer available, and they don't have access
>> > to any. They said they'd get back to us later, they haven't yet.
>> >
>> > If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a
>> > strain relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in
>> > between the case parts? And would such a strain relief be strong
>> > enough even though the connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as
>> > the original?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>>
>> Keep a class ABC fire extinguisher handy and you should be ok.
>
> To answer the poster's question.

Well I did answer the poster's question, William. Actually there were
many questions. I considered them all and replied accordingly. If you
have some other point to get across then try replying to the original
post next time.

Thanks.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 5:32 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 00:29:05 +0000, Meat Plow wrote:

> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:12:39 -0400, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
>
>> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> writes:
>>
>>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, NF wrote:
>>>
>>> > Hi,
>>> >
>>> > I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube
>>> > TV. (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that
>>> > the connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is
>>> > not an exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And
>>> > yes, the TV does work). But because the connector is not as tight
>>> > fitting as the original, the repair guy said it is very important to
>>> > have very good strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was
>>> > not home when it was repaired, this is what I was told by the person
>>> > who was home.) However, when I got home, I found that the repair guy
>>> > did not put a strain relief device in the hole where the cord is
>>> > supposed to exit the TV. Instead, he deliberately wedged the cord
>>> > between where the bottom and back parts of the case meet. This was
>>> > his idea for strain relief. (The original hole where the cord used
>>> > to exit is now just an empty hole.)
>>> >
>>> > Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together
>>> > properly. The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit
>>> > crooked. If you lift up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom
>>> > bulging out on one side, looking like it's going to break the
>>> > plastic tab. My other concern is that the cord is wedged between a
>>> > protrusion of the bottom and the back case, so the 100lbs of weight
>>> > from this TV is now pinching this cord. So my questions are:
>>> >
>>> > Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
>>> > conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
>>> >
>>> > Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
>>> > relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
>>> >
>>> > The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord
>>> > could be obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself.
>>> > (As long as we are not charged for another service call or more
>>> > labor.) The shop called back after a day and said the exact
>>> > replacement cord is no longer available, and they don't have access
>>> > to any. They said they'd get back to us later, they haven't yet.
>>> >
>>> > If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a
>>> > strain relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in
>>> > between the case parts? And would such a strain relief be strong
>>> > enough even though the connector on the board doesn't fit as tight
>>> > as the original?
>>> >
>>> > Thanks
>>>
>>> Keep a class ABC fire extinguisher handy and you should be ok.
>>
>> To answer the poster's question.
>
> Well I did answer the poster's question, William. Actually there were
> many questions. I considered them all and replied accordingly. If you
> have some other point to get across then try replying to the original
> post next time.
>
> Thanks.

Erp.. got my Sam and William's mixerd up sorry :)

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony LCD TV Model KDL-32XBR4 with Colored Vertical Lines Across Screen
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d2c4e1622e2657ed?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 10:04 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi,

I am a TV service technician working on a Sony LCD TV
model KDL-32XBR4 with colored vertical lines across the screen.
I have worked on many CRT TVs, but not many LCD TVs yet.

I don't have the SM for this TV. A web search was not
very productive on the cause of this problem.

Has anyone repaired a problem like this?

Thank You in Advance, John

PS, Remove "ine" from my email address

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 12:38 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 13:04:58 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net put finger
to keyboard and composed:

> I am a TV service technician working on a Sony LCD TV
>model KDL-32XBR4 with colored vertical lines across the screen.
>I have worked on many CRT TVs, but not many LCD TVs yet.
>
> I don't have the SM for this TV.

According to Google, your set has a WAX3 chassis.

Here are several Google hits for service manuals for sets
incorporating the WAX3 chassis:

http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2009_05/09051910005570.pdf

http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2009_08/09081412145687.pdf

http://www.go-gddq.com/upload/2009_08/09081413392117.pdf

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 2:01 pm
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 13:04:58 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net wrote:

>Hi,
>
> I am a TV service technician working on a Sony LCD TV
>model KDL-32XBR4 with colored vertical lines across the screen.
>I have worked on many CRT TVs, but not many LCD TVs yet.
>
> I don't have the SM for this TV. A web search was not
>very productive on the cause of this problem.
>
> Has anyone repaired a problem like this?
>
> Thank You in Advance, John
>
>PS, Remove "ine" from my email address
>
>
>
Two possible causes

T-con (usually behind a shield at the top of the LCD panel. The
cable from the main board connects to it.

Bad LCD panel.

The service manual is available at www.elektrotanya.com

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ABB inverter schematic?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/516159452de4d08b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 1:10 pm
From: "Jumpster Jiver"

"Dave H." <hopefuldave_doesnt_eat_spiced_ham@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:WRc8o.82132$on2.25207@hurricane...
> Hi, I have an ABB ACS-301-4P9-3 VFD invertor that I would like to get a
> schematic for - it was dropped (hard!) by the UPS man, and all appears to
> be working except the programming panel and display - so I can't configure
> it for the motor I'm using!
>
> Some investigation revealed that there's no DC to the panel, cable and
> connectors checked and OK, and rather than dive in to the (surface mount)
> board blind, I could really use a schematic for the main (processor)
> board, or the whole thing! The man at ABB's agent in t he UK says "It's
> obsolete, and we wouldn't have repaired it anyway, so no service info -
> buy a new one!"
>
> Any help would be really appreciated,
>
> Dave H.
>
Considering how it was damaged, a schematic may not help. Since you seem to
know where DC should enter the panel, your best bet may be to carefully
follow that circuit back to the power supply with a lighted magnifier and a
digital multimeter.
Look very carefully for damaged components - the pin broke off the component
or came out of the board, hairline cracks in the board, cracked solder
connections, etc.
In this case it sounds like you should be searching for some tiny, hard to
find physical damage, rather than a defective component.
If you can safely do so, gently flexing the board with power applied may
help you find the damage. Sometimes tapping on the board or components with
an insulated item could help too.
Good luck.
Most often support from manufacturers consists of replacement with a new or
refurbed product if it were under warranty, and no support when the warranty
expires or is voided.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: jazz dv-150 camcorder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/315b650683450243?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 1:13 pm
From: "Jumpster Jiver"

"jon" <jonny2bye4@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4d7c98ac-9295-409b-82f1-79d2ed06fdff@d8g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...
>I inserted batteries and a sd card 4gb . on the lcd screen it just
> says read card. is there any way to get it to work right.

RTFM

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 4:14 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hello all...

I thought that I'd clean the badly pitted contacts on the protection relay
in my Technics SA-560 receiver and got a little carried away. Turns out I
broke some of the fine turns of magnet wire on the coil while I was trying
to open the relay's case. So while I wait for my replacement relay, I pulled
a little SA-310 out of storage.

The SA-310 basically works fine, but I've noticed that if I turn up the
volume up high, the left channel starts to become weak and distorted.
Turning the volume back down restores perfect sound. The controls are clean.
I'm thinking it's a power supply problem, maybe weak filter caps not being
able to keep up with the increased power demands. It dates from 1983, so
maybe it's due for some maintenance...

Any thoughts on this? Am I on the right track?

William

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 5:31 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 18:14:29 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hello all...
>
> I thought that I'd clean the badly pitted contacts on the protection
> relay in my Technics SA-560 receiver and got a little carried away.
> Turns out I broke some of the fine turns of magnet wire on the coil
> while I was trying to open the relay's case. So while I wait for my
> replacement relay, I pulled a little SA-310 out of storage.
>
> The SA-310 basically works fine, but I've noticed that if I turn up the
> volume up high, the left channel starts to become weak and distorted.
> Turning the volume back down restores perfect sound. The controls are
> clean. I'm thinking it's a power supply problem, maybe weak filter caps
> not being able to keep up with the increased power demands. It dates
> from 1983, so maybe it's due for some maintenance...
>
> Any thoughts on this? Am I on the right track?
>
> William

Measure the B+ at the output stage on the suspect channel as you apply a
1khz sine wave from min to max output and report back.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 6:29 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Measure the B+ at the output stage on the suspect channel as you apply a
> 1khz sine wave from min to max output and report back.

I don't have any way of doing that. Any other ideas for a test that would
produce a similar result?

William

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