sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 12:50 am
From: The Daring Dufas

On 8/19/2010 2:23 AM, Tim Streater wrote:
> In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>
>> On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
>> > On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>
>> >> TDD
>> >
>> > It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
>> > vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
>> >
>> > Its a long way to go for a battery holder..
>>
>> The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
>> are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
>> out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
>> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
>
> I'd have thought both the battery holder and the tabs would be available
> at Maplins - small electronic parts.
>

Here's the Maplin link to what Brits call Lucar terminals:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725

The terminals are the same as what are called Faston (fast on) terminals
in The U.S. which slip on to a rectangular metal tab. The oval shaped
solder tabs on the battery holder can be squared off in order to accept
a Faston/Lucar terminal. Trim the solder tab to look like the end of a
male Faston/Lucar terminal and you can make a quick connect.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42727

I hope this makes it clearer and easier to understand the concept.

TDD

== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 4:03 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:

> I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 4:29 am
From: The Natural Philosopher

Smitty Two wrote:
> In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>
>> I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
>> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
>
> No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
> lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
> or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

and too soft.

== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 6:38 am
From: The Daring Dufas

On 8/19/2010 6:03 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
> In article<i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> The Daring Dufas<the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>
>> I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
>> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
>
> No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
> lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
> or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.

It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks man! It's
for experimentation and playing around! It's not for the next great
military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!

TDD

== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 8:53 am
From: J Burns

The Daring Dufas wrote:
> On 8/19/2010 2:23 AM, Tim Streater wrote:
>> In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
>> The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
>>> > On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>>
>>> >> TDD
>>> >
>>> > It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
>>> > vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US
>>> replacement...
>>> >
>>> > Its a long way to go for a battery holder..
>>>
>>> The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
>>> are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
>>> out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
>>> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
>>
>> I'd have thought both the battery holder and the tabs would be available
>> at Maplins - small electronic parts.
>>
>
> Here's the Maplin link to what Brits call Lucar terminals:
>
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725
>
> The terminals are the same as what are called Faston (fast on) terminals
> in The U.S. which slip on to a rectangular metal tab. The oval shaped
> solder tabs on the battery holder can be squared off in order to accept
> a Faston/Lucar terminal. Trim the solder tab to look like the end of a
> male Faston/Lucar terminal and you can make a quick connect.
>
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42727
>
> I hope this makes it clearer and easier to understand the concept.
>
> TDD

FastOn is AMP's trade name for push-on terminals. I believe Lucar
describes them as spade connectors.

Frederick Lucas started a car company by 1914. It went out of business
in 1921. It produced the Lucar. Maybe that's the origin if the trade name.

== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 9:18 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks
> man! It's for experimentation and playing around! It's not for
> the next great military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND
> IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!

This thread is one of the worst examples I've seen of a simple question
turning into a hyper-elaborated megillah.

Several people (myself included) said that the terminals should/must be
soldered, and if you felt uncomfortable soldering, find someone who can do
it. That was all that was required, and the exchange should have ended
there.

I don't blame anyone who contributed for trying to help. It's good to help.

But other than the desire for social interaction, why is all this necessary?

== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 9:43 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>, "john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:
>I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>upwards giving some clearence).
>
>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
>My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
>If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>gratefull. Thanks.

Considering that a good solder joint has good mechanical connection
your method should would work fine, but you should use quick epoxy instead.
The slow epoxy is best however.

greg

== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 9:55 am
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 04:03:28 -0700, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>
>> I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
>> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.
>
>No, but it is half-assed. Solder lugs are much thinner than fast-on male
>lugs. You can get the width right, but it doesn't make for a very secure
>or reliable connection since the tab is still too thin.
So pinch the connector a bit to tighten it up.

== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 10:00 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 09:18:37 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> It's not for a NASA mission! Great dangling donkey dorks man! It's for
>> experimentation and playing around! It's not for the next great
>> military jet interceptor! DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT'S FOR A TOY! GAWWD!
>
> This thread is one of the worst examples I've seen of a simple question
> turning into a hyper-elaborated megillah.

Looks like a lot of people have too much time on their hands.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 10:41 am
From: Paul <23023@hotmail.com>

On 19/08/2010 04:46, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> Paul wrote:
>>
>> On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>>> On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>> In message<i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>>>> In message<i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>>>>> small
>>>>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>>>>> anything to
>>>>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
>>>>>>>> bend
>>>>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>>>>> in the
>>>>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>>>>> outlets, is it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>>>>
>>>> Septic tank = yank
>>>>
>>>> duh - colonials
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
>>> with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
>>> fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
>>> matter being discussed. 8-)
>>>
>>> TDD
>>
>> It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
>> vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
>>
>> Its a long way to go for a battery holder..
>
>
> Yes. All the way to your mail box. Of course, that may require you
> to get out of your chair and actually walk.

And pay three times the value in shipping and taxes

== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 11:06 am
From: geoff

In message <eLmdnQE_ffCE6_HRnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@giganews.com>, aemeijers
<aemeijers@att.net> writes
>geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring
>>Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>>> small
>>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>>>anything to
>>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>>> in the
>>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>>
>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>>
>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>>> outlets, is it?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>>
>> Septic tank = yank
>> duh - colonials
>>
>Yeah, but at least we had the stones to tell the monarchy to bugger
>off. Not that we don't do a lot of stupid stuff as well, but at least
>we haven't kept a clan of figureheads on the public dole for the last N
>centuries.
>
You (septics) are so fucking stupid that you elected George Bush as
president ... twice

As for monarchy - where do all you tourists head for ? buck house to see
the queen

... septics

--
geoff

== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 11:06 am
From: geoff

In message <i4htor$ocg$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
<the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>>> small
>>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>>> anything to
>>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>>> in the
>>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>>
>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>>
>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>>> outlets, is it?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>>
>> Septic tank = yank
>>
>> duh - colonials
>>
>>
>
>Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
>with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
>fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
>matter being discussed. 8-)
>
Did you not read my post about 10 lines above ?

I'll type it again without sarcasm or pisstaking

"Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?"

Capiche, ragazzo ?

--
geoff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Marrshall amp custom mod front panel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2bba4025bd381b9e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 3:48 am
From: Ron

On 18/08/2010 20:34, hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
> On Aug 18, 5:02 am, "N_Cook"<dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> This on a 4100/JCM 900 but presumably found on other wide cab valve amps.
>> Front panel replaced with translucent smoked brown plexi-glass and Marxhall
>> white 3D
>> logo over it, reflective "silver" lining to the rear panel and running
>> without screens or
>> retainers on the valves , for visible effect. But heavyish plexiglass sheet
>> only relying on a few glue spots onto the rexine covering, itself glued to
>> not much woodwork. So nothing much holding it in place, now a few glue spots
>> have failed . Any ideas on how to make a firmer fixing without drilling
>> holes through the material. There is white trim around top and sides of the
>> plexiglass , bonded to it, that could perhaps hide fittings
>
> Lots of epoxy

velco

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 4:15 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ron <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:AoOdneYFbfZilvDRnZ2dnUVZ8l-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> On 18/08/2010 20:34, hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
> > On Aug 18, 5:02 am, "N_Cook"<dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> >> This on a 4100/JCM 900 but presumably found on other wide cab valve
amps.
> >> Front panel replaced with translucent smoked brown plexi-glass and
Marxhall
> >> white 3D
> >> logo over it, reflective "silver" lining to the rear panel and running
> >> without screens or
> >> retainers on the valves , for visible effect. But heavyish plexiglass
sheet
> >> only relying on a few glue spots onto the rexine covering, itself glued
to
> >> not much woodwork. So nothing much holding it in place, now a few glue
spots
> >> have failed . Any ideas on how to make a firmer fixing without drilling
> >> holes through the material. There is white trim around top and sides of
the
> >> plexiglass , bonded to it, that could perhaps hide fittings
> >
> > Lots of epoxy
>
> velco

The owner was aware of it being loose (1.2Kg) and he is going to sort it out
by gluing back, apparently he's done it before, so not my pidgeon.
He reported that over time whereas he was comfortable with 1/3 vol clean ch
setting , he reckons that imperseptibly over years he now needs 1/2 vol
setting.
3x ECC83 , generic recommended gain 1.6
these measure
v1 / 1.3,1.4
v2/ 1.0,1.2
v3/ 1.2,1.1

would that accord with people's experience here, av 1.2 over 6 triodes would
account for that gain drop?
4x EL34 all fine at 13 to 14 at 59 to 66mA

Back to wrestling with a 7.5 inch guage 12V,60 amp ride on train loco

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 7:45 am
From: Ron

On 19/08/2010 12:15, N_Cook wrote:

> He reported that over time whereas he was comfortable with 1/3 vol clean ch
> setting , he reckons that imperseptibly over years he now needs 1/2 vol
> setting.

That's pretty common among guitarists ;)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 4:05 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
wrote in message news:xbWdnVB1kd3AGvHRnZ2dnUVZ_gSdnZ2d@mchsi.com...
> Hi!
>
>> The ones I've seen with the notoriously bad solder connections are much
>> later models using the SVI series outputs - not STK.
>
> The solder on this unit looked bombproof. I could only find one joint--and
> this was only if I squinted at it the right way--that looked bad in any
> way.
> So I redid it, made it look "perfect" and found no improvement. I guess
> I'll
> get to practice sixteen times when my new module arrives.
>
> I've found plenty of other bad solder connections (but I think I mentioned
> that already)...some of the panel indicators on my SA-560 and an equalizer
> of some kind (don't recall the model #) needed to be redone before they'd
> work. The EQ was easy, the SA-560 not so much.
>
> Was there any difference to speak of between an STK and the SVI modules?
> The
> "SVI" designation struck me as nothing more than a house numbering scheme
> from Matsushita Electric, and some of my service manuals show an SVI
> numbered part when the actual receiver had an STK-XXXX II of some type in
> it. I also saw similar numbering with the tuning
> microcontroller...SVIxxxxx
> in the book, and the actual part number/manufacturer name in the receiver.
>
> William
>
>

You are correct that Panasonic added an SVI prefix to the STK modules' part
numbers - I had forgotten that!
The later models from approximately the 1990's used Panasonic (Matsushita)
built outputs with original SVI numbering on the modules themselves.

The chips were very different and not at all interchangeable. Also, the SVI
modules were very expensive, often leading to repair work being declined by
the customer.

The STK's almost never had any external biasing - I might have seen that
once in 35 years. Occasionally there could be an external resistor burned.
Normally you just replace the module and fuse if necessary and enjoy!

Mark Z.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 6:52 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:35:45 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> I don't think you need to worry about biasing a hybrid module. Those
>> things are STK-something right?
>
> In this case, it's an STK-2038 II module that is used.
>
> This receiver has something called "Computer Drive". It's not clear what
> the "Computer" in use (a 4-bit Matsushita microcontroller) actually
> *does*, but I really think it is only watching the input signal level,
> temperature (via a tripping-type sensor set to 60C! Ouch!) and
> triggering the "preheat" operation, operating some LEDs and generally
> looking pretty. (My only other "Computer Drive" receiver, an SA-560,
> doesn't seem to *have* the "Computer Drive" IC. It has only a small
> circuit that switches on for a time at startup to "preheat" the power
> transistors.) I smell marketing and maybe some "audiophoolery" here...?
>
> There's also "New Class A Synchro Bias" which I take to mean (after
> having done some reading) that the transistors in the amplifier are
> prevented from ever switching off completely when the unit is in
> operation. If I'm not mistaken, wouldn't that result in a lot of
> needless heat dissipation and a stressful operating environment for the
> STK-2038 module?
>
> There are what appear to be bias adjustment pots on the main board in
> what little outboard supporting circuitry the amplifier uses. So far as
> I know, they're not mentioned in the service manual, so my guess is "no
> adjustments intended".
>
> William

I don't know why you would need to pre-heat a hybrid module. Must be a
sales gimmick. If I still worked for a Matsu authorized repair center I'd
be better able to answer. Having not been active in warranty repair for
them in over 27 years I don't recall exactly the verifications after
repair procedure we had to do. I would almost bet the farm that they
won't need adjustment.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 7:08 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 02:35:43 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> I gotta get me one of those. Still listening (and watching) my 30 gig
>> Ipod. Looked for the new 64 gig I Touch, pricey! But not out of my
>> price range even with the 3G option.
>
> I bought a first-gen unit at a severe discount when the second
> generation ones came out. It doesn't really matter to me if I'm "one
> step behind".
>
> Even as nice of a piece of equipment as it is, there's nothing about it
> that screams "killer app". I've only ever used it very occasionally to
> browse the web at home when a computer wasn't convenient or to play
> video. I don't care much that it will never see iOS 4.
>
> I found a well received and free audio frequency generation app, but the
> iTMS is somehow dorked up at the moment and convinced that my credit
> card will be expiring soon (in 2013?). Not quite.
>
> William

I currently have a 30gb video Ipod. And an Ipod Shuffle. I'm pretty sure
that 32 gigs will serve me fine. My video Ipod has some dark lines in the
screen going from right to left. Not much of a deal unless you want to
watch a video. Funny thing is the lines are in the back light. They don't
show when looking at the display with the back light off. My music and
video library is over 100 gb. I frequently change the music and videos.
Currently have 10 gigs of music on the 30 and 10 gigs of video. Made a TV-
out cable so I can watch video on TV. And the picture is pretty damn
good. I've read some pros and cons for the 64 gb model. Don't care for
some of the cons so I will probably buy a 32. One app I like is called
Scanner911. It gets its audio from radioreference.com. People donate
scanner streaming to the site. You can listen on the PC. Around here all
of the departments except our local public safety switch to APCO-25/EDACS
800mhz trunked encrypted so I can no longer listen in on the sheriff/
state patrol. Someone in this area feeds Radioreference with a Uniden 996
scanner capable of receiving that traffic. I can pick it up on the PC or
on my netbook also. Being a Ham for 20 years now it's always been a hobby
of listening to police and fire along with SW.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Beyond AWG
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6108ec0943f8d321?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 5:30 am
From: PeterD

>
>"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote in message
>news:Uv2dna7xQLZ_7_TRnZ2dnUVZ_iydnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...
>>
>> The biggest problem is going to be counting 1800 turns! I can make a jig
>> to
>> wind this on my bench lathe and incorporate a magnet/Hall sensor to
>> advance
>> a counter.

Measure the size of the finished coil (circumference) then compute the
length of wire needed to complete the 1800 turns and don't bother
counting? There is a formula for more complicated applications that
takes into consideration the wire's diameter, as the coil's
circumference does change slightly as it is wound.

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TOPIC: repair electronics
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TOPIC: Technics SA-R210 Receiver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 10:23 am
From: Puddin' Man

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:52:15 -0500, "William R. Walsh"
<newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com> wrote:

>Hi!
>
>> Receiver is in a cabinet with little ventilation. Obviously likely to be a
>> heat related problem.
>
>You should move it to a place where it can get better ventilation. Some of
>these run quite hot.

I pulled the shelf above to give it more room. Put a little fan on
a stand, directed flow to the chassis vents. Ran for maybe a couple
hours before audio failed again.

>Is this receiver losing power totally, or do some functions (like the
>display and tuning buttons) continue to work?

The front display panel remains lighted. Looks normal but no sound.
Jiggling wires has no effect.

>If it does, I'd bet that it's
>going into protection to save your speakers from a disaster. Most--if not
>all--of these units used Sanyo hybrid audio amplifier ICs (a large
>many-legged black thing) and I think it's safe to say those were the weakest
>point of them. They don't like heat and it seems like Technics skimped on
>the heatsink in many of these units.

Could be for all I know. I'll put the unit on my work-bench today, take a
closer look.

I actually have 2 SA-R210 receivers. Both have problems. The other one,
with bad power switch and maybe cracked audio output joints, has been
pressed into service.

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 10:51 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 02:19:49 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>
>
>"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:pan.2010.08.18.21.18.20@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:20:28 -0700, PlainBill47 wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:39:13 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector. Not
>>>>because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>>>>resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size or
>>>>slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with super
>>>>high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US. What are
>>>>some choices and their advantages?
>>> I'd like to point out that the aspect ratio of the screens should be
>>> taken into consideration. Your 50" 3:4 Panasonic has a picture height
>>> of roughly 30". To maintain the same picture height you would need a
>>> 60" wide screen TV. That is easily possible with DLP and plasma, and
>>> even with LCD TVs.
>>>
>>> My chief knock against DLP is a somewhat restricted viewing angle. And
>>> let's be honest, the sets are much thicker than a comparable sized LCD
>>> or plasma. However, a 65" DLP will easily fit within your price limit.
>>>
>>> As far as Plasma vrs LCD, the usual advice applies, avoid house brands.
>>> Both are viable technologies. Plasma will cost you less. Potentially,
>>> LCD will last longer. These are one of the products where an extended
>>> warranty is a good idea.
>>>
>>> Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have to make the
>>> decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung or Panasonic, take a lookat
>>> LG is you want to but I'd avoid buying an LG plasma.
>>>
>>> In LCD I'd suggest Sony, Samsung, and Panasonic. Sharp's Quattron
>>> process may be more of a marketing gimic that a real advantage. Again,
>>> you are the judge.
>>>
>>> 3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that it
>>> is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing I have
>>> seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies are shot in 3-D
>>> is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they have a mediocre
>>> script, poor actors, and a director who is well past his prime.
>>>
>>> PlainBill
>>
>> I'm looking at the Panasonic Viera 55" and Samsung similar model. I
>> realize the size of the old Panasonic 51" square projector's size in
>> comparison to say a 55" HDTV screen height. I like the prices and specs
>> of the plasma sets. Use wise, plasma should last 20 years in this
>> household.
>>
>>
>
>Last Christmas, after agonising long and hard over replacing my ageing, but
>still superbly performing, 32" CRT Tosh, I was totally knocked out by a 50"
>Panasonic plasma, and that was what I ultimately bought. From time to time,
>Pan offer 5 year full warranties on these sets. The store I bought mine from
>was offering a 5 year warranty on their own account, and it includes the
>panel. Having now watched the set for around 8 months, I can honestly say
>that there is not a single thing about it that I don't like - apart from
>possibly the sound which, in common with all slim sets, be they LCD or
>plasma, is not particularly 'full'. Perfectly adequate for normal viewing,
>but not great. To overcome this, I have my sat receiver optically linked to
>a Sony HC amp with full format decoding, and that's what I use for watching
>films. The picture on this plasma set is stunning - and, having spent many
>years in TV and electronic service, I don't use that term lightly. I loved
>my old Tosh, but on balance, I think I love this one even more.
>
>About the only other piece of advice that I could give is that if you are
>going to be looking at HD, make sure that you get a set that is 'full HD'
>and not just 'HD ready' . On my full HD set, HD transmissions are really
>noticeably sharper and more detailed, due to the fact that the panel's
>native resolution matches that of the source. However, my son-in-law's
>parents recently upgraded their sat TV package to a new HD receiver, and an
>HD subscription, but they are quite disappointed with it, displayed on their
>'HD ready' LCD Sammy, I think it is. I guess this is because the native
>resolution of the panel is lower than the actual resolution of the HD
>source, so although the set is capable of *accepting* the full res HD signal
>that the sat receiver is outputting, it then has to downscale it in order
>for the LCD panel to be able to display it, thus negating any real advantage
>from having an HD signal in the first place ...
>
>Just personally, I think that the colour rendition on plasmas knocks spots
>off of LCDs. I was always happy with the level of maturity that CRT
>technology had reached, in terms of natural colour rendition, and I was
>reading just the other day, that the phosphors used in plasma panels, are
>identical to those used in CRTs, so I guess that would explain why I like
>the picture on my plas so much. :-)
>
>Arfa
There are a number of pitfalls in the process of aquiring a signal for
an HD set. By law in the US all TVs must have a digiatl tuner. An
over the air signal can produce a stunning picture. However, this
depends on the local station. Some broadcast in 720p, others in
1080i. And most are still using SD for any remote feeds.

Converting a 720p signal to 1080i or vise versa results in
significant degradation. This can be made worse by 'professional'
installers. Shortly after having purchased my HD receiver I upgraded
my satellite subscription to include an HD receiver and the relatively
few HD channels available at the time. The installer insisted on
setting the HD receiver to output a 720p signal "because that matched
the native resolution of the TV" (the TV's native resolution was
1080p). Since the HD receiver included OTA capability the idiot had
set up a contition where a digital broadcast in 1080i would be
converted to 702p by the receiver, then converted to 1080p by the TV
with very unsatisfactory results. To further compound his folly the
fool set it to display SD signals across the full width of the screen
"so there wouldn't be any screen burn" - which does not occur with DLP
sets.

PlainBill

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 11:05 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:04:23 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have
>> to make the decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung
>> or Panasonic, take a lookat LG is you want to but I'd avoid
>> buying an LG plasma.
>
>I just remembered... Panasonic has a system that automatically raises the
>cells' bias over time to compensate for a drop in inefficiency. It's
>believed that this will slowly degraded the display's black level.
>
>> 3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that
>> it is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing
>> I have seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies
>> are shot in 3-D is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they
>> have a mediocre script, poor actors, and a director who is well-
>> past his prime.
>
>Oh, let's see... The Pixar 3D films are really awful, as was "Avatar".
>
>And who can forget "Dial M for Murder", one of the past-his-prime
>Hitchcock's very worst films? Ditto for "Hondo", "Kiss Me, Kate", and "It
>Came from Outer Space". All of it 3D dreck.
>
You left out other 'magnificent' 3D movies, such as 'Gorilla at
Large', 'Bawana Devil', 'It came from Outer Space', 'Cat-Women of the
Moon'. And who could forget 'Jaws 3-D', no matter how hard they
tried.

You inclusion of 'Avatar' is rather instructive. While Cameron has
done some good work, 'Avatar' was a prime example of stunning CGI
images masking a very pedestrian script and average (at best) acting.

PlainBill

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