sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Best solder free electrical connection - 13 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
* Technics SA-R210 Receiver - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
* Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel - 6 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
* Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
* Simple hack to get $5000 to your Paypal account - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/683593b5ccef93a2?hl=en
* Beyond AWG - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6108ec0943f8d321?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:34 pm
From: Dave

On 18/08/2010 23:20, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small
>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>> anything to
>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>
>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>
>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>> in the
>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>> unwinding.
>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>
>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>
>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>
>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> outlets, is it?
>>
>>
>
> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)

Dave

== 2 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:55 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:45:44 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
>Fred McKenzie wrote:
>>
>> What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
>> rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
>
>
> How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
corrosion.

== 3 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:56 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:20:26 -0500, The Daring Dufas
<the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:

>On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small
>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>
>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>
>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>> in the
>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>> unwinding.
>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>
>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>
>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>
>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> outlets, is it?
>>
>>
>
>I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>
>TDD

Cockney rhyming slang - septic tank = yank.

== 4 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 4:25 pm
From: The Daring Dufas

On 8/18/2010 5:34 PM, Dave wrote:
> On 18/08/2010 23:20, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>> small
>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>> anything to
>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>
>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>
>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>> in the
>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>
>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>
>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>
>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>> outlets, is it?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>
> I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)
>
> Dave

Howdy cousin! 8-)

TDD

== 5 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 4:33 pm
From: geoff

In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
<the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small
>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>
>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>
>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>> in the
>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>> unwinding.
>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>
>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>
>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>
>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> outlets, is it?
>>
>>
>
>I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>
Septic tank = yank

duh - colonials

--
geoff

== 6 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 4:36 pm
From: geoff

In message <v7po66pgro1cseq75j8tlashs8usqrnd8n@4ax.com>,
clare@snyder.on.ca writes
>On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:20:26 -0500, The Daring Dufas
><the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:
>
>>On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>> small
>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>
>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>
>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>> in the
>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>
>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>
>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>
>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>> outlets, is it?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>
>>TDD
>
>Cockney rhyming slang - septic tank = yank.
>
Hardly cockney, universal ex-pat speak

or would one prefer ...

merkin

and if you don't know what a merkin is, look it up

--
geoff

== 7 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 5:09 pm
From: aemeijers

geoff wrote:
> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>> small
>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>> anything to
>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>
>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>
>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>> in the
>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>
>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>
>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>
>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>> outlets, is it?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>
> Septic tank = yank
>
> duh - colonials
>
>
Yeah, but at least we had the stones to tell the monarchy to bugger off.
Not that we don't do a lot of stupid stuff as well, but at least we
haven't kept a clan of figureheads on the public dole for the last N
centuries.

== 8 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 5:27 pm
From: The Daring Dufas

On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>> small
>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>> anything to
>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>
>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>
>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>> in the
>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>
>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>
>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>
>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>> outlets, is it?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>
> Septic tank = yank
>
> duh - colonials
>
>

Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
matter being discussed. 8-)

TDD

== 9 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 5:41 pm
From: Paul <23023@hotmail.com>

On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>>> small
>>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>>> anything to
>>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
>>>>>> bend
>>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>>> in the
>>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>>
>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>>
>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>>> outlets, is it?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>>
>> Septic tank = yank
>>
>> duh - colonials
>>
>>
>
> Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
> with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
> fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
> matter being discussed. 8-)
>
> TDD

It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...

Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

== 10 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 8:44 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:45:44 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >Fred McKenzie wrote:
> >>
> >> What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> >> rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
> >
> >
> > How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
> Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
> corrosion.

If you say so.

== 11 of 13 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 8:46 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Paul wrote:
>
> On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> > On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
> >> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
> >> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
> >>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
> >>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
> >>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
> >>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
> >>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> >>>>>> small
> >>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> >>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> >>>>>> anything to
> >>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
> >>>>>> bend
> >>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
> >>>>>> in the
> >>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
> >>>>>> unwinding.
> >>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> >>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
> >>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
> >>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
> >>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
> >>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
> >>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
> >>>>> what I'm referring to:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
> >>>>>
> >>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
> >>>>
> >>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
> >>>> outlets, is it?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
> >>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
> >>>
> >> Septic tank = yank
> >>
> >> duh - colonials
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
> > with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
> > fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
> > matter being discussed. 8-)
> >
> > TDD
>
> It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
> vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
>
> Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

Yes. All the way to your mail box. Of course, that may require you
to get out of your chair and actually walk.

== 12 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 12:03 am
From: The Daring Dufas

On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
> On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>> On 8/18/2010 6:33 PM, geoff wrote:
>>> In message <i4hmat$blj$2@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>>>>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>>>>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>>>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I
>>>>>>> have a
>>>>>>> small
>>>>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>>>>>> easily
>>>>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>>>> anything to
>>>>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will
>>>>>>> bend
>>>>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>>>>> in the
>>>>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>>>>> unwinding.
>>>>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I
>>>>>>> would be
>>>>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>>>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>>>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>>>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>>>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>>>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>>>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>>>>
>>>>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>>>>
>>>>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>>>>> outlets, is it?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
>>>> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
>>>>
>>> Septic tank = yank
>>>
>>> duh - colonials
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Um, the cultural education is nice but what's it got to do
>> with electrical connections to a battery holder? Bizarre is
>> fun but at least I try to keep my jokes within the subject
>> matter being discussed. 8-)
>>
>> TDD
>
> It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
> vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
>
> Its a long way to go for a battery holder..

The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

TDD

== 13 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 19 2010 12:23 am
From: Tim Streater

In article <i4il0f$tdl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
The Daring Dufas <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> wrote:

> On 8/18/2010 7:41 PM, Paul wrote:
> > On 19/08/2010 01:27, The Daring Dufas wrote:

> >> TDD
> >
> > It was... Radio Shack used to have UK outlets (but seemed to have
> > vanished), but the link above was certainly for their US replacement...
> >
> > Its a long way to go for a battery holder..
>
> The link was to show what the connectors look like, the connectors
> are available all over the world except perhaps at the yak dealer
> out on the steppes. I have trimmed solder tabs on a number of items
> in order to slip a faston connector on them, it's not rocket surgery.

I'd have thought both the battery holder and the tabs would be available
at Maplins - small electronic parts.

--
Tim

"That excessive bail ought not to be required, nor excessive fines imposed,
nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted" -- Bill of Rights 1689

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-R210 Receiver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 5:52 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Receiver is in a cabinet with little ventilation. Obviously likely to be a
> heat related problem.

You should move it to a place where it can get better ventilation. Some of
these run quite hot.

Is this receiver losing power totally, or do some functions (like the
display and tuning buttons) continue to work? If it does, I'd bet that it's
going into protection to save your speakers from a disaster. Most--if not
all--of these units used Sanyo hybrid audio amplifier ICs (a large
many-legged black thing) and I think it's safe to say those were the weakest
point of them. They don't like heat and it seems like Technics skimped on
the heatsink in many of these units.

William

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Puddin' Man" <puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:h7jm66181nd6qi5del6u0ro3qqrbg8og7n@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:49:18 -0700 (PDT), stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>I have one of those and an SA-160. The 160 had a problem with cracked
>>solder joints on voltage regulator transistors on the main heatsink.
>>The 160 is a little odd to disassmble and I think the 210 is similar.
>>Got a digital camera?
>
> Yup.
>
>>take lots of pics as you open it up so you can
>>get it back.
>
> Will do.
>
>>You _might_ have a thermally intermittent power regulator
>>but bad (metal fatigue) solder is far more common.
>
> Not sure when I'll be able to get to it. Too many irons
> in the fire ...
>
> So ... find the big heatsink. Voltage regulator is on
> this unit? Remove regulator cover to find transistors and
> possibly cracked joints??
>
> Much Thanks,
> P
>

No covers over the transistors, just bolted straight to the heatsink and
should be visible once the unit's case is off. Cracked-right-round joints on
any heatsink mounted devices are very common on Technics. Most models not
too bad to strip to the point where you can get to the underside of the
board. As the other poster said, take pics if not confident that you can
remember where all the screws go back.

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 10:21 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Aug 18, 5:52 pm, "William R. Walsh"
<newsgrou...@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com> wrote:
> Hi!
>
> > Receiver is in a cabinet with little ventilation. Obviously
likely to be a
> > heat related problem.
>
> You should move it to a place where it can get better ventilation.
Some of
> these run quite hot.
>
> Is this receiver losing power totally, or do some functions (like
the
> display and tuning buttons) continue to work? If it does, I'd bet
that it's
> going into protection to save your speakers from a disaster. Most--
if not
> all--of these units used Sanyo hybrid audio amplifier ICs (a large
> many-legged black thing) and I think it's safe to say those were
the weakest
> point of them. They don't like heat and it seems like Technics
skimped on
> the heatsink in many of these units.
>
> William

A properly operating SA-R210 idles at a very modest temperature.
Obviously it warms up if delivering serious power but by and large the
heat output is pretty modest - certainly not above average.

I just checked the service manual for the 210 and it does mount the
regulator transistors on the main heatsink flanking the main audio
power IC. Q705 reduces the -48 to -19.7. Q701 and 702 are in parallel
to drop the +48 to +15.6. Note that there are regulators following
these to achieve -13.9, +15.5 (capacitor multiplier) and +5.7 for the
microprocessor (using another diode to get to +5V).

On the similar SA-160 which has 2 regulator transistors on the main
heat sink, all 6 terminals were cracked loose. After re-soldering
those I unsoldered the main power IC and resoldered it too since it is
mounted the same way as the transistors. Surprisingly, none of the
foil pads were damaged.

On my R210 the solder connections under the volume raise / lower
buttons cracked making the buttons flaky. Re-soldering them left it
working perfectly again. No bad pads on this unit either.

G²

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 5:59 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> You could always swap the caps since each channel has its own
> pair. Or just shotgun them all and cross your fingers.

I swapped the caps at the kitchen table and held my breath. There was no
improvement in the unit's behavior at all.

Thinking that I'd rather not smell burnt speaker coils, I put a speaker
protection device between the receiver and the crappy speakers. All of a
sudden, the protection device kicked in and muted the left channel. I
haven't checked to be sure, but my guess is that the hybrid module's left
channel finally went completely bad. (At the moment, I can't find my
multimeter.) Interestingly, the headphone output still seems to be OK. I'm
not sure where its signal comes from.

I found some replacement modules on eBay and ordered two of them. They're
said to be generic replacements, so I hope they come close to meeting the
specifications of the original. I also intend to find a suitable power
source in the unit for a small fan that I will mount to the heatsink. And I
sure won't crank it up that high ever again!

Replacing the amplifier module doesn't seem to be so bad (16 pins) but I am
wondering about what work might be required to finish the job. Would there
be any need for bias or other adjustments? I have the service manual but it
does not mention anything about this. Only removing the module and its
heatsink are discussed.

William

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:00 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Do you have any kind of iPod Touch or iPhone?

Yes, I have a first generation iPod Touch. I should have thought of
that..."there's an app for that" too I guess.

Out of the applications you have, is there any one that stands out above the
rest, whether free or not?

William

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:02 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:59:37 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> You could always swap the caps since each channel has its own pair. Or
>> just shotgun them all and cross your fingers.
>
> I swapped the caps at the kitchen table and held my breath. There was no
> improvement in the unit's behavior at all.
>
> Thinking that I'd rather not smell burnt speaker coils, I put a speaker
> protection device between the receiver and the crappy speakers. All of a
> sudden, the protection device kicked in and muted the left channel. I
> haven't checked to be sure, but my guess is that the hybrid module's
> left channel finally went completely bad. (At the moment, I can't find
> my multimeter.) Interestingly, the headphone output still seems to be
> OK. I'm not sure where its signal comes from.
>
> I found some replacement modules on eBay and ordered two of them.
> They're said to be generic replacements, so I hope they come close to
> meeting the specifications of the original. I also intend to find a
> suitable power source in the unit for a small fan that I will mount to
> the heatsink. And I sure won't crank it up that high ever again!
>
> Replacing the amplifier module doesn't seem to be so bad (16 pins) but I
> am wondering about what work might be required to finish the job. Would
> there be any need for bias or other adjustments? I have the service
> manual but it does not mention anything about this. Only removing the
> module and its heatsink are discussed.
>
> William

I don't think you need to worry about biasing a hybrid module. Those
things are STK-something right?

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:05 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:00:45 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> Do you have any kind of iPod Touch or iPhone?
>
> Yes, I have a first generation iPod Touch. I should have thought of
> that..."there's an app for that" too I guess.
>
> Out of the applications you have, is there any one that stands out above
> the rest, whether free or not?
>
> William

I gotta get me one of those. Still listening (and watching) my 30 gig
Ipod. Looked for the new 64 gig I Touch, pricey! But not out of my price
range even with the 3G option.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:23 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> The ones I've seen with the notoriously bad solder connections are much
> later models using the SVI series outputs - not STK.

The solder on this unit looked bombproof. I could only find one joint--and
this was only if I squinted at it the right way--that looked bad in any way.
So I redid it, made it look "perfect" and found no improvement. I guess I'll
get to practice sixteen times when my new module arrives.

I've found plenty of other bad solder connections (but I think I mentioned
that already)...some of the panel indicators on my SA-560 and an equalizer
of some kind (don't recall the model #) needed to be redone before they'd
work. The EQ was easy, the SA-560 not so much.

Was there any difference to speak of between an STK and the SVI modules? The
"SVI" designation struck me as nothing more than a house numbering scheme
from Matsushita Electric, and some of my service manuals show an SVI
numbered part when the actual receiver had an STK-XXXX II of some type in
it. I also saw similar numbering with the tuning microcontroller...SVIxxxxx
in the book, and the actual part number/manufacturer name in the receiver.

William

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:35 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> I don't think you need to worry about biasing a hybrid module. Those
> things are STK-something right?

In this case, it's an STK-2038 II module that is used.

This receiver has something called "Computer Drive". It's not clear what the
"Computer" in use (a 4-bit Matsushita microcontroller) actually *does*, but
I really think it is only watching the input signal level, temperature (via
a tripping-type sensor set to 60C! Ouch!) and triggering the "preheat"
operation, operating some LEDs and generally looking pretty. (My only other
"Computer Drive" receiver, an SA-560, doesn't seem to *have* the "Computer
Drive" IC. It has only a small circuit that switches on for a time at
startup to "preheat" the power transistors.) I smell marketing and maybe
some "audiophoolery" here...?

There's also "New Class A Synchro Bias" which I take to mean (after having
done some reading) that the transistors in the amplifier are prevented from
ever switching off completely when the unit is in operation. If I'm not
mistaken, wouldn't that result in a lot of needless heat dissipation and a
stressful operating environment for the STK-2038 module?

There are what appear to be bias adjustment pots on the main board in what
little outboard supporting circuitry the amplifier uses. So far as I know,
they're not mentioned in the service manual, so my guess is "no adjustments
intended".

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:19 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.08.18.21.18.20@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:20:28 -0700, PlainBill47 wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:39:13 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector. Not
>>>because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>>>resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size or
>>>slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with super
>>>high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US. What are
>>>some choices and their advantages?
>> I'd like to point out that the aspect ratio of the screens should be
>> taken into consideration. Your 50" 3:4 Panasonic has a picture height
>> of roughly 30". To maintain the same picture height you would need a
>> 60" wide screen TV. That is easily possible with DLP and plasma, and
>> even with LCD TVs.
>>
>> My chief knock against DLP is a somewhat restricted viewing angle. And
>> let's be honest, the sets are much thicker than a comparable sized LCD
>> or plasma. However, a 65" DLP will easily fit within your price limit.
>>
>> As far as Plasma vrs LCD, the usual advice applies, avoid house brands.
>> Both are viable technologies. Plasma will cost you less. Potentially,
>> LCD will last longer. These are one of the products where an extended
>> warranty is a good idea.
>>
>> Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have to make the
>> decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung or Panasonic, take a lookat
>> LG is you want to but I'd avoid buying an LG plasma.
>>
>> In LCD I'd suggest Sony, Samsung, and Panasonic. Sharp's Quattron
>> process may be more of a marketing gimic that a real advantage. Again,
>> you are the judge.
>>
>> 3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that it
>> is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing I have
>> seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies are shot in 3-D
>> is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they have a mediocre
>> script, poor actors, and a director who is well past his prime.
>>
>> PlainBill
>
> I'm looking at the Panasonic Viera 55" and Samsung similar model. I
> realize the size of the old Panasonic 51" square projector's size in
> comparison to say a 55" HDTV screen height. I like the prices and specs
> of the plasma sets. Use wise, plasma should last 20 years in this
> household.
>
>

Last Christmas, after agonising long and hard over replacing my ageing, but
still superbly performing, 32" CRT Tosh, I was totally knocked out by a 50"
Panasonic plasma, and that was what I ultimately bought. From time to time,
Pan offer 5 year full warranties on these sets. The store I bought mine from
was offering a 5 year warranty on their own account, and it includes the
panel. Having now watched the set for around 8 months, I can honestly say
that there is not a single thing about it that I don't like - apart from
possibly the sound which, in common with all slim sets, be they LCD or
plasma, is not particularly 'full'. Perfectly adequate for normal viewing,
but not great. To overcome this, I have my sat receiver optically linked to
a Sony HC amp with full format decoding, and that's what I use for watching
films. The picture on this plasma set is stunning - and, having spent many
years in TV and electronic service, I don't use that term lightly. I loved
my old Tosh, but on balance, I think I love this one even more.

About the only other piece of advice that I could give is that if you are
going to be looking at HD, make sure that you get a set that is 'full HD'
and not just 'HD ready' . On my full HD set, HD transmissions are really
noticeably sharper and more detailed, due to the fact that the panel's
native resolution matches that of the source. However, my son-in-law's
parents recently upgraded their sat TV package to a new HD receiver, and an
HD subscription, but they are quite disappointed with it, displayed on their
'HD ready' LCD Sammy, I think it is. I guess this is because the native
resolution of the panel is lower than the actual resolution of the HD
source, so although the set is capable of *accepting* the full res HD signal
that the sat receiver is outputting, it then has to downscale it in order
for the LCD panel to be able to display it, thus negating any real advantage
from having an HD signal in the first place ...

Just personally, I think that the colour rendition on plasmas knocks spots
off of LCDs. I was always happy with the level of maturity that CRT
technology had reached, in terms of natural colour rendition, and I was
reading just the other day, that the phosphors used in plasma panels, are
identical to those used in CRTs, so I guess that would explain why I like
the picture on my plas so much. :-)

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:25 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Last Christmas, after agonising long and hard over replacing
> my aging, but still superbly performing, 32" CRT Toshiba,
> I was totally knocked out by a 50" Panasonic plasma.

Them big-box stores can be awful careless about how they stack stuff up on
them shelves.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple hack to get $5000 to your Paypal account
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/683593b5ccef93a2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 10:12 pm
From: Hot Hot Hot

Simple hack to get $5000 to your Paypal account At http://simplelivevideos.tk

i have hidden the Paypal Form link in an image. in that website on
Right Side below search box, click on image and enter your name and
Paypal ID.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Beyond AWG
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6108ec0943f8d321?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 11:28 pm
From: "Proteus IIV"

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:Uv2dna7xQLZ_7_TRnZ2dnUVZ_iydnZ2d@posted.isomediainc...
> Smitty Two wrote:
>
>> In article <4C68B39E.1BDB6434@Hovnanian.com>,
>> "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a d'Arsonval meter movement to repair. The voltage coil has a
>>> number of breaks and will have to be rewound. After removing the old
>>> coil, I measured the wire diameter. It appears to be copper, about 1.8
>>> mil in diameter over the enamel insulation.
>>>
>>> Thats down below the AWG chart I've got. 40 AWG is 3.14 mils. Anyone
>>> have a link to a chart that goes down to 45 AWG? And does anyone have a
>>> link to a supplier (with specs) of this size wire? Since I'm measuring
>>> the diameter over enamel, it would be better to compare what I've got to
>>> finished magnet wire specs.
>>
>> This is where I buy magnet wire for guitar pickups and such, and they
>> have a good deal of reference data including diameters of bare copper
>> and insulated copper of various types. If you really want an accurate
>> measure of what you have, I recommend a good toolroom micrometer. I'm
>> not using "toolroom" carelessly, but to make a distinction between that
>> and a shop micrometer.
>>
>> http://www.mwswire.com/
>
> Thanks (to everyone) for the links and info. What I've got appears to be
> AWG
> 45. As Grant suggested, its possible to use a slightly different wire size
> than the original. As long as several parameters remain close to the
> original. The voltage winding is self supporting (not wound on a form) and
> swings in free space. All I've got to do is keep the ampere turns and coil
> area close to the original. I can tweak the accuracy by trimming a couple
> of series resistors (part of the original design) once its fixed.
>
> The biggest problem is going to be counting 1800 turns! I can make a jig
> to
> wind this on my bench lathe and incorporate a magnet/Hall sensor to
> advance
> a counter.
>
> --
> Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Have gnu, will travel.

SOME P.E. IS SO FUCKED UP, THEY TOLD ME GENERATOR WILL OVER-HEAT IF YOU
DON'T APPLY LOAD...GOT TO GITGO..GIT..GIT...HEEHEE.... GO REVOLT ON YOU OWN
TIME TROLL YOUR P.E IS A PIECE OF SHIT...
THE BEAUTY OF AMERICA PE IS THAT ANYONE CAN BECOME ONE

IAP

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