http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
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Today's topics:
* motherboard cpu power section check - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
* Marrshall amp custom mod front panel - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2bba4025bd381b9e?hl=en
* Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV - 11 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
* Best solder free electrical connection - 7 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 1:07 am
From: Mike De Petris
On Aug 17, 11:07 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > what can we say from this:
>
> > Computer Profile Summary
> > Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP)
> > Profile Date: martedì 17 agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
> 8.1m
> > Windows Logon: mike
>
> > Operating System System Model
> > Windows 7 Ultimate (build 7600)
> > Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian (Italy)
> > TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
> > System Serial Number: 37252508Q
> > Enclosure Type: Other
> > Processor a Main Circuit Board b
> > 1,73 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo
> > 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
> > 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
> > 64-bit ready
> > Multi-core (2 total)
> > Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL VALLEY
> (NAPA) CRB
> > BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives
> Memory Modules
> > c,d
> > 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive
> > Free Space
>
> > ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev 3.ALC,
> > SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable Installed
> Memory
>
> > Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
> > Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
> > Local Drive Volumes
>
> > c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
> > Network Drives
> > None detected
> > Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers local
> user
> > accounts last logon
> > mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
> > local system accounts
> > Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin) Guest never
> > HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41
>
> > DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked account
>
> > Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS Document Writer
> > on XPSPort: Controllers Display
> > ATA Channel 0 [Controller]
> > ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
> > Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
> > 27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family [Display
> adapter]
> > (2x)
> > Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
> > Bus Adapters Multimedia
> > Texas Instruments PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G
> > (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio
> > Device
> > Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group Policies
> Microsoft Security
> > Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
> > Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
> > Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning On
> > None discovered
> > Communications Other Devices
>
> > Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
> > primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
> > Gateway: 192.168.178.1
> > Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
> > Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
> > Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
> > Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>
> > Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
> > Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
> > Microsoft AC Adapter
> > Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft Composite
> > Battery
> > HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device
> > USB Input Device (2x)
> > HID Keyboard Device
> > Standard PS/2 Keyboard
> > SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device
> > USB Root Hub (5x)
> > Generic volume shadow copy
>
> Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware except
> the battery.
I have just read this:
http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Satellite-A205-S5800-freezes-when-AC-power-cord-is-connected/m-p/129846/highlight/false#M5279
will try an XP installation.
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:45 am
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:07:25 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> On Aug 17, 11:07 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> > what can we say from this:
>>
>> > Computer Profile Summary
>> > Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP) Profile Date: martedì 17
>> > agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
>> 8.1m
>> > Windows Logon: mike
>>
>> > Operating System System Model Windows 7 Ultimate (build
>> > 7600)
>> > Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian
>> > (Italy)
>> > TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
>> > System Serial Number: 37252508Q
>> > Enclosure Type: Other
>> > Processor a Main Circuit Board b 1,73 gigahertz Intel
>> > Core 2 Duo
>> > 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
>> > 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
>> > 64-bit ready
>> > Multi-core (2 total)
>> > Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL
>> > VALLEY
>> (NAPA) CRB
>> > BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives
>> Memory Modules
>> > c,d
>> > 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive
>> > Free Space
>>
>> > ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev
>> > 3.ALC, SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable
>> > Installed
>> Memory
>>
>> > Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
>> > Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
>> > Local Drive Volumes
>>
>> > c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
>> > Network Drives
>> > None detected
>> > Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers local
>> user
>> > accounts last logon
>> > mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
>> > local system accounts
>> > Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin) Guest never
>> > HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41
>>
>> > DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked
>> > account
>>
>> > Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS Document
>> > Writer on XPSPort: Controllers Display ATA Channel 0
>> > [Controller]
>> > ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
>> > Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
>> > 27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family
>> > [Display
>> adapter]
>> > (2x)
>> > Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
>> > Bus Adapters Multimedia Texas Instruments
>> > PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
>> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
>> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
>> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
>> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
>> > USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio Device
>> > Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group Policies
>> Microsoft Security
>> > Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
>> > Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
>> > Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning On
>> > None discovered
>> > Communications Other Devices
>>
>> > Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
>> > primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
>> > Gateway: 192.168.178.1
>> > Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
>> > Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
>> > Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
>> > Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>>
>> > Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
>> > Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host
>> > Controller
>> > Microsoft AC Adapter
>> > Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft Composite
>> > Battery
>> > HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device USB Input
>> > Device (2x)
>> > HID Keyboard Device
>> > Standard PS/2 Keyboard
>> > SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device USB
>> > Root Hub (5x)
>> > Generic volume shadow copy
>>
>> Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware except
>> the battery.
>
> I have just read this:
> http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Satellite-A205-
S5800-freezes-when-AC-power-cord-is-connected/m-p/129846/highlight/
false#M5279
>
> will try an XP installation.
So it's a problem with Win 7 and Vista? It would then seem as though
Toshiba has gotten away from proprietary ACPI drivers and its own control
panel and moved to letting Windows ACPI do the job. This may be a bug in
Vista / Win 7 ACPI when certain hardware is present and Windows provide
the driver for the interface. Let us know what XP does for you.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:12 am
From: Mike De Petris
On Aug 18, 3:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:07:25 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > On Aug 17, 11:07 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> >> > what can we say from this:
>
> >> > Computer Profile Summary
> >> > Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP) Profile Date: martedì 17
> >> > agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
> >> 8.1m
> >> > Windows Logon: mike
>
> >> > Operating System System Model Windows 7 Ultimate (build
> >> > 7600)
> >> > Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian
> >> > (Italy)
> >> > TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
> >> > System Serial Number: 37252508Q
> >> > Enclosure Type: Other
> >> > Processor a Main Circuit Board b 1,73 gigahertz Intel
> >> > Core 2 Duo
> >> > 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
> >> > 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
> >> > 64-bit ready
> >> > Multi-core (2 total)
> >> > Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL
> >> > VALLEY
> >> (NAPA) CRB
> >> > BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives
> >> Memory Modules
> >> > c,d
> >> > 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive
> >> > Free Space
>
> >> > ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev
> >> > 3.ALC, SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable
> >> > Installed
> >> Memory
>
> >> > Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
> >> > Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
> >> > Local Drive Volumes
>
> >> > c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
> >> > Network Drives
> >> > None detected
> >> > Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers local
> >> user
> >> > accounts last logon
> >> > mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
> >> > local system accounts
> >> > Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin) Guest never
> >> > HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41
>
> >> > DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked
> >> > account
>
> >> > Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS Document
> >> > Writer on XPSPort: Controllers Display ATA Channel 0
> >> > [Controller]
> >> > ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
> >> > Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
> >> > 27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family
> >> > [Display
> >> adapter]
> >> > (2x)
> >> > Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
> >> > Bus Adapters Multimedia Texas Instruments
> >> > PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
> >> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
> >> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
> >> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
> >> > USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family)
> >> > USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio Device
> >> > Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group Policies
> >> Microsoft Security
> >> > Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
> >> > Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
> >> > Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning On
> >> > None discovered
> >> > Communications Other Devices
>
> >> > Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
> >> > primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
> >> > Gateway: 192.168.178.1
> >> > Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
> >> > Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
> >> > Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
> >> > Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>
> >> > Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
> >> > Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host
> >> > Controller
> >> > Microsoft AC Adapter
> >> > Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft Composite
> >> > Battery
> >> > HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device USB Input
> >> > Device (2x)
> >> > HID Keyboard Device
> >> > Standard PS/2 Keyboard
> >> > SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device USB
> >> > Root Hub (5x)
> >> > Generic volume shadow copy
>
> >> Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware except
> >> the battery.
>
> > I have just read this:
> >http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Satellite-A205-
>
> S5800-freezes-when-AC-power-cord-is-connected/m-p/129846/highlight/
> false#M5279
>
>
>
> > will try an XP installation.
>
> So it's a problem with Win 7 and Vista? It would then seem as though
> Toshiba has gotten away from proprietary ACPI drivers and its own control
> panel and moved to letting Windows ACPI do the job. This may be a bug in
> Vista / Win 7 ACPI when certain hardware is present and Windows provide
> the driver for the interface. Let us know what XP does for you.
I will have a try but needs time, anyway I'm skeptical as the pc do
not boot at all, I don't know if there are any ACPI settings that are
stored in the CMOS even if BIOS has no settings for them, but who
knows?
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:47 am
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 09:12:38 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> On Aug 18, 3:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:07:25 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> > On Aug 17, 11:07 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> >> > what can we say from this:
>>
>> >> > Computer Profile Summary
>> >> > Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP) Profile Date: martedì 17
>> >> > agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
>> >> 8.1m
>> >> > Windows Logon: mike
>>
>> >> > Operating System System Model Windows 7 Ultimate (build
>> >> > 7600)
>> >> > Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian
>> >> > (Italy)
>> >> > TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
>> >> > System Serial Number: 37252508Q
>> >> > Enclosure Type: Other
>> >> > Processor a Main Circuit Board b 1,73 gigahertz
>> >> > Intel Core 2 Duo
>> >> > 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
>> >> > 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
>> >> > 64-bit ready
>> >> > Multi-core (2 total)
>> >> > Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL
>> >> > VALLEY
>> >> (NAPA) CRB
>> >> > BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives
>> >> Memory Modules
>> >> > c,d
>> >> > 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard
>> >> > Drive Free Space
>>
>> >> > ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev
>> >> > 3.ALC, SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable
>> >> > Installed
>> >> Memory
>>
>> >> > Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
>> >> > Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
>> >> > Local Drive Volumes
>>
>> >> > c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
>> >> > Network Drives
>> >> > None detected
>> >> > Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers local
>> >> user
>> >> > accounts last logon
>> >> > mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
>> >> > local system accounts
>> >> > Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin) Guest never
>> >> > HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41
>>
>> >> > DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked
>> >> > account
>>
>> >> > Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS
>> >> > Document Writer on XPSPort: Controllers Display ATA
>> >> > Channel 0 [Controller]
>> >> > ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
>> >> > Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage
>> >> > Controller - 27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express
>> >> > Chipset Family [Display
>> >> adapter]
>> >> > (2x)
>> >> > Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
>> >> > Bus Adapters Multimedia Texas Instruments
>> >> > PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
>> >> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
>> >> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
>> >> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
>> >> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
>> >> > Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio
>> >> > Device Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group
>> >> > Policies
>> >> Microsoft Security
>> >> > Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
>> >> > Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
>> >> > Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning
>> >> > On
>> >> > None discovered
>> >> > Communications Other Devices
>>
>> >> > Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
>> >> > primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
>> >> > Gateway: 192.168.178.1
>> >> > Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
>> >> > Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
>> >> > Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
>> >> > Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>>
>> >> > Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
>> >> > Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host
>> >> > Controller
>> >> > Microsoft AC Adapter
>> >> > Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft
>> >> > Composite Battery
>> >> > HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device USB
>> >> > Input Device (2x)
>> >> > HID Keyboard Device
>> >> > Standard PS/2 Keyboard
>> >> > SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device USB
>> >> > Root Hub (5x)
>> >> > Generic volume shadow copy
>>
>> >> Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware
>> >> except the battery.
>>
>> > I have just read this:
>> >http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Satellite-A205-
>>
>> S5800-freezes-when-AC-power-cord-is-connected/m-p/129846/highlight/
>> false#M5279
>>
>>
>>
>> > will try an XP installation.
>>
>> So it's a problem with Win 7 and Vista? It would then seem as though
>> Toshiba has gotten away from proprietary ACPI drivers and its own
>> control panel and moved to letting Windows ACPI do the job. This may be
>> a bug in Vista / Win 7 ACPI when certain hardware is present and
>> Windows provide the driver for the interface. Let us know what XP does
>> for you.
>
> I will have a try but needs time, anyway I'm skeptical as the pc do not
> boot at all, I don't know if there are any ACPI settings that are stored
> in the CMOS even if BIOS has no settings for them, but who knows?
Depends in the CMOS/BIOS. Some have very limited adjustments. Some might
have ACPI settings. So the thing doesn't boot on AC power? That's not a
software issue. That's a problem with onboard battery management. Or
possible a slight corruption in the BIOS code.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 1:07 pm
From: Mike De Petris
On Aug 18, 6:47 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Depends in the CMOS/BIOS. Some have very limited adjustments. Some might
> have ACPI settings. So the thing doesn't boot on AC power? That's not a
> software issue. That's a problem with onboard battery management. Or
> possible a slight corruption in the BIOS code.
yes it boots with battery only, as soon as I connect the AC cord it
freezes, even in the BIOS, and if it is connected from the beginning
LEDs light up, fan starts, display flashes a while but nothing more
anyway, when I disable a CPU from device manager in safe mode, the pc
worked well all the day, even shutting down and restarting, until I
used a software tool to read ACPI temperatures, at that point it
suddenly powered off and all was like before
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Marrshall amp custom mod front panel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2bba4025bd381b9e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:02 am
From: "N_Cook"
This on a 4100/JCM 900 but presumably found on other wide cab valve amps.
Front panel replaced with translucent smoked brown plexi-glass and Marxhall
white 3D
logo over it, reflective "silver" lining to the rear panel and running
without screens or
retainers on the valves , for visible effect. But heavyish plexiglass sheet
only relying on a few glue spots onto the rexine covering, itself glued to
not much woodwork. So nothing much holding it in place, now a few glue spots
have failed . Any ideas on how to make a firmer fixing without drilling
holes through the material. There is white trim around top and sides of the
plexiglass , bonded to it, that could perhaps hide fittings
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 12:34 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
On Aug 18, 5:02 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> This on a 4100/JCM 900 but presumably found on other wide cab valve amps.
> Front panel replaced with translucent smoked brown plexi-glass and Marxhall
> white 3D
> logo over it, reflective "silver" lining to the rear panel and running
> without screens or
> retainers on the valves , for visible effect. But heavyish plexiglass sheet
> only relying on a few glue spots onto the rexine covering, itself glued to
> not much woodwork. So nothing much holding it in place, now a few glue spots
> have failed . Any ideas on how to make a firmer fixing without drilling
> holes through the material. There is white trim around top and sides of the
> plexiglass , bonded to it, that could perhaps hide fittings
Lots of epoxy
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 6:37 am
From: Meat Plow
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 16:16:13 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> At home I watch in low-light conditions.
>
> So a plasma set will be okay.
>
>
>> I might watch 10 hours a week so the new set will gather dust.
>
> Ah, but what glorious dust. The best Blu-ray disks -- and even cable
> shows -- are spectacular.
Yeah can't wait. Well I guess I have to wait, won't have the $$$ for a
month or so. My bedroom 32" HDTV is quite a thrilling watch albeit only
capable of 1080i. But I get tired of being cramped up in the bedroom
watching from a high back leather office chair. And the 32 isn't large
enough to watch from 10 feet away in my living room.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 7:08 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
>> Ah, but what glorious dust. The best Blu-ray disks -- and
>> even cable shows -- are spectacular.
> Yeah, can't wait. I guess I have to wait, won't have the $$$ for
> a month or so. My bedroom 32" HDTV is quite a thrilling watch
> albeit only capable of 1080i. But I get tired of being cramped up
> in the bedroom watching from a high back leather office chair.
> And the 32 isn't large enough to watch from 10 feet away in
> my living room.
Sitting 6' from a 60" display is one of life's great sensual pleasures. It
ain't Cinerama, * but it sure beats a "big, enormous 12 inch screen"
("Little Shop of Horrors").
One other thing you might want to consider... When testing sets, try turning
the Sharpness control all the way up, and seeing what happens.
I mention this because I like ultra-razor-sharp images. "Home Theater"
magazine recommends setting the Sharpness on a Pioneer Kuro to -15. Not
centered at zero, but minus 15 -- all the way down.
Mine is set to +15 -- all the way up. What's remarkable is that this setting
produces zero -- yes, zero -- overshoot, undershoot, or ringing. And if the
source suffers from excessive edge enhancement ("Gladiator", for example),
it's not exaggerated.
Along the same lines... Make sure every form of "enhancement" is turned off.
If the set doesn't produce a good image on its own, it's unlikely image
processing will help.
* One of the demo disks you'll want is the digitally spliced-together
edition of "How the West Was Won". It's taken directly from the camera
negatives, and in everything but sheer size, totally blows away what you see
in a Cinerama theater. The set includes both a rectilinear version, and a
"smilevision" version that curves the image to represent how it would look
on a Cinerama screen. Get "2001" and "The Searchers", too.
== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 8:31 am
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:08:07 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>> Ah, but what glorious dust. The best Blu-ray disks -- and even cable
>>> shows -- are spectacular.
>
>> Yeah, can't wait. I guess I have to wait, won't have the $$$ for a
>> month or so. My bedroom 32" HDTV is quite a thrilling watch albeit only
>> capable of 1080i. But I get tired of being cramped up in the bedroom
>> watching from a high back leather office chair. And the 32 isn't large
>> enough to watch from 10 feet away in my living room.
>
> Sitting 6' from a 60" display is one of life's great sensual pleasures.
> It ain't Cinerama, * but it sure beats a "big, enormous 12 inch screen"
> ("Little Shop of Horrors").
>
> One other thing you might want to consider... When testing sets, try
> turning the Sharpness control all the way up, and seeing what happens.
>
> I mention this because I like ultra-razor-sharp images. "Home Theater"
> magazine recommends setting the Sharpness on a Pioneer Kuro to -15. Not
> centered at zero, but minus 15 -- all the way down.
>
> Mine is set to +15 -- all the way up. What's remarkable is that this
> setting produces zero -- yes, zero -- overshoot, undershoot, or ringing.
> And if the source suffers from excessive edge enhancement ("Gladiator",
> for example), it's not exaggerated.
>
> Along the same lines... Make sure every form of "enhancement" is turned
> off. If the set doesn't produce a good image on its own, it's unlikely
> image processing will help.
>
> * One of the demo disks you'll want is the digitally spliced-together
> edition of "How the West Was Won". It's taken directly from the camera
> negatives, and in everything but sheer size, totally blows away what you
> see in a Cinerama theater. The set includes both a rectilinear version,
> and a "smilevision" version that curves the image to represent how it
> would look on a Cinerama screen. Get "2001" and "The Searchers", too.
Which set did you have? I'm trying to avoid as much shopping as possible.
Demos can be deceiving and I wouldn't mind paying a little extra and buy
from the local appliance and electronics store than say Best Buy or
WalMart. And a 60" isn't out of the realm of possibilities. 50" was just
a starting point. I was curious about these new Sharp 4 color sets too.
Just don't know if the technology is too virgin to be reliable. I'll have
the cash so a reasonable price is not as important as these other factors.
Would be cool to have some bells and whistles like a tcp/ip connection
for streaming video. Already have a decent Sony / Infinity 5:1 audio in
place.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 8:47 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
> Which set did you have?
I have a 60" Pioneer Kuro, the final series. Not cheap -- and it was sold
only by specialist dealers.
I would look first /carefully/ at the Panasonic plasmas and Sony LCDs. Avoid
off-brands -- including Philips. I have a 32" Vizio in my den, and when
Comcast was transmitting QAM HD, it had a gorgeous picture -- with an
extremely wide viewing angle.
> I'm trying to avoid as much shopping as possible.
> Demos can be deceiving and I wouldn't mind paying a little extra and buy
> from the local appliance and electronics store than say Best Buy or
> WalMart.
You might as well go to Costco.
> And a 60" isn't out of the realm of possibilities. 50" was just a
> starting point. I was curious about these new Sharp 4 color sets too.
Without going into colorimetry (which I don't fully understand, anyway),
color TV is based on three well-defined primaries. Adding another might
increase the range of colors that can be displayed, but they won't be within
the range of colors that are recorded by the camera. Just because Captain
Sulu is impressed, doesn't mean you should be.
> Just don't know if the technology is too virgin to be reliable.
Heck, plasmas have been around almost 15 years, and LCDs of all sorts a lot
longer. The CU repair ratings are based on what their readers say, so I'm
inclined to believe them.
As you'll have the cash, that's all the /more/ reason for taking your time
and looking carefully. Make up your mind, and don't let anyone talk you into
anything.
== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:00 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)
In article <pan.2010.08.18.15.30.49@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>, Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:08:07 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
>>>> Ah, but what glorious dust. The best Blu-ray disks -- and even cable
>>>> shows -- are spectacular.
>>
>>> Yeah, can't wait. I guess I have to wait, won't have the $$$ for a
>>> month or so. My bedroom 32" HDTV is quite a thrilling watch albeit only
>>> capable of 1080i. But I get tired of being cramped up in the bedroom
>>> watching from a high back leather office chair. And the 32 isn't large
>>> enough to watch from 10 feet away in my living room.
>>
>> Sitting 6' from a 60" display is one of life's great sensual pleasures.
>> It ain't Cinerama, * but it sure beats a "big, enormous 12 inch screen"
>> ("Little Shop of Horrors").
>>
>> One other thing you might want to consider... When testing sets, try
>> turning the Sharpness control all the way up, and seeing what happens.
A digital real time change in sharpness ??
I thought that was strictly analog.
>> I mention this because I like ultra-razor-sharp images. "Home Theater"
>> magazine recommends setting the Sharpness on a Pioneer Kuro to -15. Not
>> centered at zero, but minus 15 -- all the way down.
>>
>> Mine is set to +15 -- all the way up. What's remarkable is that this
>> setting produces zero -- yes, zero -- overshoot, undershoot, or ringing.
>> And if the source suffers from excessive edge enhancement ("Gladiator",
>> for example), it's not exaggerated.
>>
>> Along the same lines... Make sure every form of "enhancement" is turned
>> off. If the set doesn't produce a good image on its own, it's unlikely
>> image processing will help.
>>
>> * One of the demo disks you'll want is the digitally spliced-together
>> edition of "How the West Was Won". It's taken directly from the camera
>> negatives, and in everything but sheer size, totally blows away what you
>> see in a Cinerama theater. The set includes both a rectilinear version,
>> and a "smilevision" version that curves the image to represent how it
>> would look on a Cinerama screen. Get "2001" and "The Searchers", too.
>
>Which set did you have? I'm trying to avoid as much shopping as possible.
>Demos can be deceiving and I wouldn't mind paying a little extra and buy
>from the local appliance and electronics store than say Best Buy or
>WalMart. And a 60" isn't out of the realm of possibilities. 50" was just
>a starting point. I was curious about these new Sharp 4 color sets too.
>Just don't know if the technology is too virgin to be reliable. I'll have
>the cash so a reasonable price is not as important as these other factors.
>Would be cool to have some bells and whistles like a tcp/ip connection
>for streaming video. Already have a decent Sony / Infinity 5:1 audio in
>place.
>
>
>
>
== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:29 am
From: "Deke"
"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.08.17.21.38.55@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector.
> Not because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
> resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size
> or slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with
> super high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US.
> What are some choices and their advantages?
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Have you considered a DLP? Huge screens are available (80"), and the blacks
are incredible.
I bought a Mitsubishi 65", have had it for 2 years, no problems. They use
less electricity than a
LCD or plasma, and I'm still running on the original bulb (replacement cost,
around $100).
They also have a line of LCD sets, but they are pricey. There's also the
LaserVue line, a DLP
with a LED instead of a bulb. Check it out.
== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:39 am
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 08:47:48 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> Which set did you have?
>
> I have a 60" Pioneer Kuro, the final series. Not cheap -- and it was
> sold only by specialist dealers.
>
> I would look first /carefully/ at the Panasonic plasmas and Sony LCDs.
> Avoid off-brands -- including Philips. I have a 32" Vizio in my den, and
> when Comcast was transmitting QAM HD, it had a gorgeous picture -- with
> an extremely wide viewing angle.
My cheapo Olevia 32 is very impressive picture-wise. I like everything
about it except the viewing angle is slightly more narrow than I prefer.
It has one fault, a hum from the inverter in every audio source except
headphones out. That's ok though it's hooked to an Altec PC 3-way speaker
system with a good sub via the headphone jack, problem solved. The
internal speakers were tinny and had a sympathetic vibration with the
chassis at certain frequencies.
I'm going to stay with a major brand. Might check into Vizio, they've
been around long enough also.
>
>> I'm trying to avoid as much shopping as possible. Demos can be
>> deceiving and I wouldn't mind paying a little extra and buy from the
>> local appliance and electronics store than say Best Buy or WalMart.
>
> You might as well go to Costco.
>
>
>> And a 60" isn't out of the realm of possibilities. 50" was just a
>> starting point. I was curious about these new Sharp 4 color sets too.
>
> Without going into colorimetry (which I don't fully understand, anyway),
> color TV is based on three well-defined primaries. Adding another might
> increase the range of colors that can be displayed, but they won't be
> within the range of colors that are recorded by the camera. Just because
> Captain Sulu is impressed, doesn't mean you should be.
Yeah I don't understand the tech either. But the 4th color they've added
is yellow. How that pans out remains to be seen.
>
>> Just don't know if the technology is too virgin to be reliable.
>
> Heck, plasmas have been around almost 15 years, and LCDs of all sorts a
> lot longer. The CU repair ratings are based on what their readers say,
> so I'm inclined to believe them.
I meant the Sharp 4 color technology. I know the others have been around
long enough to be tried and tested. Also have an interest in the pure LCD
sets, no CCFL backlight. There has been plenty of talk here about them
but don't remember what the general consensus was.
> As you'll have the cash, that's all the /more/ reason for taking your
> time and looking carefully. Make up your mind, and don't let anyone talk
> you into anything.
I spent maybe a month looking at 32's before settling on the Olevia. It
had the same picture performance as most of the major brands but cost
half as much in most cases. I wasn't into spending a lot of cash for a
bedroom set back in 2007.So far, other than the sound issue, I made the
right choice. I especially like an adjustable backlighting for a bedroom
set. Makes it easy on the eyes in a dark room and helps the contrast
ration when the brightness is turned down.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 9:53 am
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 11:29:27 -0500, Deke wrote:
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.08.17.21.38.55@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>> Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector. Not
>> because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>> resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size or
>> slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with super
>> high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US. What are
>> some choices and their advantages?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
>
> Have you considered a DLP? Huge screens are available (80"), and the
> blacks are incredible.
> I bought a Mitsubishi 65", have had it for 2 years, no problems. They
> use less electricity than a
> LCD or plasma, and I'm still running on the original bulb (replacement
> cost, around $100).
> They also have a line of LCD sets, but they are pricey. There's also
> the LaserVue line, a DLP
> with a LED instead of a bulb. Check it out.
I haven't ruled out DLP. For as much TV that is watched here a bulb would
last a decade. I'm wanting to move my TV watching from the bedroom back
to the living room hence the need for a new set. The 51" Panasonic
currently there works but not for HD. I have a small 15" set for my
bedroom and would give the 32 to my son for his bedroom.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 1:20 pm
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:39:13 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector.
>Not because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size
>or slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with
>super high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US.
>What are some choices and their advantages?
I'd like to point out that the aspect ratio of the screens should be
taken into consideration. Your 50" 3:4 Panasonic has a picture height
of roughly 30". To maintain the same picture height you would need a
60" wide screen TV. That is easily possible with DLP and plasma, and
even with LCD TVs.
My chief knock against DLP is a somewhat restricted viewing angle.
And let's be honest, the sets are much thicker than a comparable sized
LCD or plasma. However, a 65" DLP will easily fit within your price
limit.
As far as Plasma vrs LCD, the usual advice applies, avoid house
brands. Both are viable technologies. Plasma will cost you less.
Potentially, LCD will last longer. These are one of the products
where an extended warranty is a good idea.
Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have to make the
decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung or Panasonic, take a
lookat LG is you want to but I'd avoid buying an LG plasma.
In LCD I'd suggest Sony, Samsung, and Panasonic. Sharp's Quattron
process may be more of a marketing gimic that a real advantage.
Again, you are the judge.
3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that it
is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing I have
seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies are shot in 3-D
is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they have a mediocre
script, poor actors, and a director who is well past his prime.
PlainBill
== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 2:04 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"
> Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have
> to make the decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung
> or Panasonic, take a lookat LG is you want to but I'd avoid
> buying an LG plasma.
I just remembered... Panasonic has a system that automatically raises the
cells' bias over time to compensate for a drop in inefficiency. It's
believed that this will slowly degraded the display's black level.
> 3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that
> it is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing
> I have seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies
> are shot in 3-D is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they
> have a mediocre script, poor actors, and a director who is well-
> past his prime.
Oh, let's see... The Pixar 3D films are really awful, as was "Avatar".
And who can forget "Dial M for Murder", one of the past-his-prime
Hitchcock's very worst films? Ditto for "Hondo", "Kiss Me, Kate", and "It
Came from Outer Space". All of it 3D dreck.
== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 2:18 pm
From: Meat Plow
On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 13:20:28 -0700, PlainBill47 wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:39:13 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector. Not
>>because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>>resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size or
>>slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with super
>>high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US. What are
>>some choices and their advantages?
> I'd like to point out that the aspect ratio of the screens should be
> taken into consideration. Your 50" 3:4 Panasonic has a picture height
> of roughly 30". To maintain the same picture height you would need a
> 60" wide screen TV. That is easily possible with DLP and plasma, and
> even with LCD TVs.
>
> My chief knock against DLP is a somewhat restricted viewing angle. And
> let's be honest, the sets are much thicker than a comparable sized LCD
> or plasma. However, a 65" DLP will easily fit within your price limit.
>
> As far as Plasma vrs LCD, the usual advice applies, avoid house brands.
> Both are viable technologies. Plasma will cost you less. Potentially,
> LCD will last longer. These are one of the products where an extended
> warranty is a good idea.
>
> Ultimately, you and your eyes (and ears) are going to have to make the
> decision. In plasma I would go with Samsung or Panasonic, take a lookat
> LG is you want to but I'd avoid buying an LG plasma.
>
> In LCD I'd suggest Sony, Samsung, and Panasonic. Sharp's Quattron
> process may be more of a marketing gimic that a real advantage. Again,
> you are the judge.
>
> 3D is available in all three technologies. I'm of the opinion that it
> is more of a gimic than a real step forward. Certainly nothing I have
> seen persuades me to believe the reason so many movies are shot in 3-D
> is the producer is trying to disguise the fact they have a mediocre
> script, poor actors, and a director who is well past his prime.
>
> PlainBill
I'm looking at the Panasonic Viera 55" and Samsung similar model. I
realize the size of the old Panasonic 51" square projector's size in
comparison to say a 55" HDTV screen height. I like the prices and specs
of the plasma sets. Use wise, plasma should last 20 years in this
household.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 12:47 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
On Aug 18, 12:45 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Fred McKenzie wrote:
>
> > What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> > rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
>
> How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 12:58 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
In sci.electronics.repair john hamilton <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
crimp, swage or weld?
soldering is as easy as it's going to get for something like a battery
holder.
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 1:55 pm
From: The Daring Dufas
On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
what I'm referring to:
http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
TDD
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 2:17 pm
From: geoff
In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
<the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>what I'm referring to:
>
>http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>
Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
outlets, is it?
--
geoff
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 2:28 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" wrote:
>
> On Aug 18, 12:45 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Fred McKenzie wrote:
> >
> > > What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> > > rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?
> >
> > How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?
>
> If the screws are big enough, they will be in direct contact with the
> other metal. That should last at least 10 years which is much more
> than the life of a typical child's toy the OP described.
That depends on how well sealed the cheap batteries are.
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:20 pm
From: The Daring Dufas
On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>> small
>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>
>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>
>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>> in the
>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>> unwinding.
>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>
>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>> what I'm referring to:
>>
>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>
> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>
> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
> outlets, is it?
>
>
I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
TDD
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 3:34 pm
From: Dave
On 18/08/2010 23:20, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> On 8/18/2010 4:17 PM, geoff wrote:
>> In message <i4hhb1$np$1@news.eternal-september.org>, The Daring Dufas
>> <the-daring-dufas@peckerhead.net> writes
>>> On 8/16/2010 12:43 PM, john hamilton wrote:
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small
>>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>> anything to
>>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>>
>>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>>
>>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes
>>>> in the
>>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>>>> unwinding.
>>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
>>> terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
>>> slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
>>> with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
>>> formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
>>> to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
>>> what I'm referring to:
>>>
>>> http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e
>>>
>> Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?
>>
>> If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
>> outlets, is it?
>>
>>
>
> I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
> about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?
I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :-)
Dave
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