sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* LA4112 amp ic datasheet? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
* Best solder free electrical connection - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
* Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
* Technics SA-R210 Receiver - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
* motherboard cpu power section check - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LA4112 amp ic datasheet?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:53 pm
From: b

...any ideas on where to get a good quality pdf of this sanyo la4112
ic? the ones I have seen online have been awful - blurred, japanese
scans.
here's hoping.
cheers, B

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 12:52 am
From: "N_Cook"

b <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:028f0caa-10a9-40f6-b924-9e14664eee6e@k10g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> ...any ideas on where to get a good quality pdf of this sanyo la4112
> ic? the ones I have seen online have been awful - blurred, japanese
> scans.
> here's hoping.
> cheers, B

It was used in
1986 DECCASOUND DSC1121
would likely provide useage context/pinning

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 4:00 pm
From: Matty F

On Aug 18, 3:15 am, jeff_wisnia <jwisniaDumpThisP...@conversent.net>
wrote:
> john hamilton wrote:
> > I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> > soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> > melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> > stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> > upwards giving some clearence).
>
> >http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> > My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> > connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> > Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> > If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> > gratefull. Thanks.
>
> Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
> by now? <G>
>
> Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

I used to have trouble with bigger soldering jobs. I could never get
enough heat into the objects being soldered.
I have no problem now that I made a solder pot:
http://i47.tinypic.com/2yyqq6w.jpg
It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
so we don't poison too many people with lead!

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 6:35 pm
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:40:26 +0100, geoff <troll@uk-diy.org> wrote:

>In message <i4cus3$7c2$1@news.eternal-september.org>, J Burns
><burns4@nowhere.com> writes
>>Ralph Mowery wrote:
>>> "Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
>>>news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
>>>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>>>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>>>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>>>> solder.
>>>>
>>> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
>>>very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
>>>out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
>>>he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
>>>before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.
>>
>>Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.
>
>Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
>just purchased
>
>"Temperature of the soldering tip
>
>High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
>temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
>quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
>the component sensitive with temperature
>
>Cleaning
>
>The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
>oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
>tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
>tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
>week so the soldering tip can keep the function
>
>After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
>
>
>so now you know ...
Technical Chinglish at it's best.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 6:54 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 8/17/2010 6:00 PM, Matty F wrote:
> It's sitting on a 1000 watt stove element. I have a little lid for it
> so we don't poison too many people with lead!

Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside.
Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an
extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation. Lead
melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute
amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased.
Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated
temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between
700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most
melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much
above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the
lowest temperature that gives good results.

Unless you've got your solder pot cranked up well over 800 F I don't
think you're going to be sucking up any lead vapors.

Jeff

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:42 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Grant wrote:
>
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:34:22 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> >news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
> >>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
> >>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
> >>> anything to stick to the tabs.
> >>
> >> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
> >> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
> >> solder.
> >>
> >
> >That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
> >iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
> >tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
> >the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
> >melt the solder.
> >The 63/73 is the way to go, but 60/40 is just fine. Also do not move the
> >wires while the solder is cooling. This is one big way to mess up the
> >joint.
> >
> I'm surprised nobody mentioned cleaning up the battery tab first,
> some of that cheap gear is terribly difficult to tin, without a
> good scratching up and cleaning first. Emery paper, sand paper,
> even a sharp instrument. And wash the grease off too, metho or
> IPA should be safe for the plastic?

Some are plated to make them look good, but then require an acid
flux. A small (4") 'Mill Bastard' file is handy to expose the base
metal. Pre tin the wire first, then wrap a turn around the terminal.
This will reduce the soldering time, and give you a better joint.

> The trick is to go in quick, if it doesn't work straight away (like
> less than a second), remove the heat, let the thing cool right down,
> and try again later.
>
> Problems happen when you keep the heat on to no effect, melting the
> surrounds.
>
> Be aware of the need for the fresh heat bridge, created by applying
> iron and solder together, so the flux is working. It's perfectly
> fine to have several attempts, provided you let the parts cool right
> down between the attempts.
>
> And yes, practice makes perfect, so try some other soldering to get
> a feel for how the solder, flux and iron behave together. :)
>
> Try soldering (stripped) insulated wire together until you can make
> clean solder joints without burning the insulation, basic thermal
> feel and control. Don't be afraid to waste solder, learn to coax
> excess solder off a joint by application of the iron and new solder.
>
> Grant.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:44 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Stormin Mormon wrote:
>
> I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
> Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
> I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
> it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
> connection.

File off the chrome.

> Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
> is about the best answer I can find.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Fred McKenzie wrote:
>
> What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
> rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

How are you going to keep oxygen out of the threads?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 4:16 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> At home I watch in low-light conditions.

So a plasma set will be okay.

> I might watch 10 hours a week so the new set
> will gather dust.

Ah, but what glorious dust. The best Blu-ray disks -- and even cable
shows -- are spectacular.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 8:25 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <pan.2010.08.17.21.38.55@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector.
> Not because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
> resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size
> or slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with
> super high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US.
> What are some choices and their advantages?

So you're not going 3D?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-R210 Receiver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 6:49 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Aug 17, 10:55 am, Puddin' Man <puddingDOT...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've got an old Technics SA-R210 stereo receiver from the 80's which I've relied
> on for ages.
>
> Woke up this morn and it played for a while, then <silence>. Powered down,
> let it sit 10 min., powered up and it worked again for 15 min.,
then <silence>.
>
> Receiver is in a cabinet with little ventilation. Obviously likely
to be a
> heat related problem.
>
> Does this suggest a particular component? I can bench-test, solder
a little.
> How difficult to repair DIY??
>
>   Thx,
>   P
>
> "Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

I have one of those and an SA-160. The 160 had a problem with cracked
solder joints on voltage regulator transistors on the main heatsink.
The 160 is a little odd to disassmble and I think the 210 is similar.
Got a digital camera? take lots of pics as you open it up so you can
get it back. You _might_ have a thermally intermittent power regulator
but bad (metal fatigue) solder is far more common.

G²

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 8:05 pm
From: Puddin' Man

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:49:18 -0700 (PDT), stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:

>I have one of those and an SA-160. The 160 had a problem with cracked
>solder joints on voltage regulator transistors on the main heatsink.
>The 160 is a little odd to disassmble and I think the 210 is similar.
>Got a digital camera?

Yup.

>take lots of pics as you open it up so you can
>get it back.

Will do.

>You _might_ have a thermally intermittent power regulator
>but bad (metal fatigue) solder is far more common.

Not sure when I'll be able to get to it. Too many irons
in the fire ...

So ... find the big heatsink. Voltage regulator is on
this unit? Remove regulator cover to find transistors and
possibly cracked joints??

Much Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 18 2010 1:07 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 17, 11:07 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > what can we say from this:
>
> > Computer Profile Summary
> > Computer Name:     W (in WORKGROUP)
> > Profile Date:      martedì 17 agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
>         8.1m
> > Windows Logon:     mike
>
> > Operating System           System Model
> > Windows 7 Ultimate (build 7600)
> > Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian (Italy)
> >            TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
> > System Serial Number: 37252508Q
> > Enclosure Type: Other
> > Processor a                Main Circuit Board b
> > 1,73 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo
> > 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
> > 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
> > 64-bit ready
> > Multi-core (2 total)
> > Not hyper-threaded                 Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL VALLEY
> (NAPA) CRB
> > BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives              
> Memory Modules
> > c,d
> > 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive
> > Free Space
>
> > ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev 3.ALC,
> > SMART Status: Healthy              1016 Megabytes Usable Installed
> Memory
>
> > Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
> > Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
> >    Local Drive Volumes
>
> > c: (NTFS on drive 0)       79,92 GB        67,18 GB free
> >    Network Drives
> >    None detected
> > Users (mouse over user name for details)           Printers local
> user
> > accounts   last logon
> >  mike      17/08/2010 07:21:31     (admin)
> > local system accounts
> >  Administrator     14/07/2009 06:53:58     (admin) Guest   never
> >  HomeGroupUser$    17/08/2010 19:05:41
>
> > DISABLED Marks a disabled account;   LOCKED OUT Marks a locked account
>
> > Microsoft Shared Fax Driver        on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS Document Writer
> > on XPSPort: Controllers            Display
> > ATA Channel 0 [Controller]
> > ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
> > Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
> > 27C4               Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family [Display
> adapter]
> > (2x)
> > Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
> > Bus Adapters               Multimedia
> > Texas Instruments PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G
> > (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> > Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio
> > Device
> > Virus Protection [Back to Top]             new Group Policies
> Microsoft Security
> > Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
> >     Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
> >     Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning On
> >            None discovered
> > Communications             Other Devices
>
> > Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
> >  primary   Auto IP Address:        192.168.178.29 / 24
> >    Gateway:        192.168.178.1
> >    Dhcp Server:    192.168.178.1
> >    Physical Address:       00:A0:D1:72:93:47
> > Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
> > Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>
> > Networking Dns Server:     192.168.178.1
> >            Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
> > Microsoft AC Adapter
> > Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft Composite
> > Battery
> > HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device
> > USB Input Device (2x)
> > HID Keyboard Device
> > Standard PS/2 Keyboard
> > SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device
> > USB Root Hub (5x)
> > Generic volume shadow copy
>
> Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware except
> the battery.

I have just read this:
http://laptopforums.toshiba.com/t5/Batteries-and-Power/Satellite-A205-S5800-freezes-when-AC-power-cord-is-connected/m-p/129846/highlight/false#M5279

will try an XP installation.

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