sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Shox Go,Shox 2:40,Shox Respond,Shox Warrior,Shox Ride 2,Shox Glamour .....
www.cntrade09.com - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7a21f546b4d11f48?hl=en
* TV Power Cord - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
* Best solder free electrical connection - 9 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
* Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
* Yamaha RX730 tuner set up - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3df1889c7463a53?hl=en
* barkredit , guenstiger kredit , umschuldung online , kredit ohne auskunft ,
kredit auto , privat kredit ohne schufa , kredite vergleich , sofortkredit
online , kredit ohne schufa ch , bon bank , + + + +++ GUENSTIGE KREDITE ONLINE
+++ KREDITE IM I - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/36b7fcb281eabc53?hl=en
* Technics SA-R210 Receiver - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
* motherboard cpu power section check - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
* Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
* LA4112 amp ic datasheet? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Shox Go,Shox 2:40,Shox Respond,Shox Warrior,Shox Ride 2,Shox Glamour ...
..www.cntrade09.com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7a21f546b4d11f48?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 12:08 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV Power Cord
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 1:52 am
From: Ross Herbert

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, "NF" <franklin4321@cox.net> wrote:

:Hi,
:
:I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV. (An
:in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the connector on
:the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an exact fit, but is
:the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV does work). But because
:the connector is not as tight fitting as the original, the repair guy said
:it is very important to have very good strain relief to avoid tension on the
:cord. (I was not home when it was repaired, this is what I was told by the
:person who was home.) However, when I got home, I found that the repair guy
:did not put a strain relief device in the hole where the cord is supposed to
:exit the TV. Instead, he deliberately wedged the cord between where the
:bottom and back parts of the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief.
:(The original hole where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)
:
:Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together properly.
:The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit crooked. If you lift
:up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out on one side,
:looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other concern is that
:the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom and the back case, so
:the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching this cord. So my questions
:are:
:
:Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
:conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
:
:Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain relief
:device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
:
:The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could be
:obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long as we
:are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop called
:back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no longer available,
:and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back to us later,
:they haven't yet.
:
:If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a strain
:relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in between the case
:parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even though the
:connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?
:
:Thanks
:

As others have stated, this is a bodge job and there are a few ways it can be
solved without too much trouble.

For example, is the cord 2 conductor fig.8 or 3 conductor round?

Different types of strain relief bushing products available to suit most
situations and can be viewed here http://www.heyco.com/products/thumb_03.html

If I can get them in Australia then I am sure that wherever you are located you
can get them also.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 2:42 am
From: Kellerman <"kellerman

On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>
The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you will
need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX. Tin-lead stuff with activated flux,
greater than about 0.5% halides (if you can buy it now) will produce a
better result in a home DIY environment. If the description says
"non-corrosive flux" then that's the wrong type. You need the slightly
corrosive action of the halides to remove the oxide from from the nickel
so that the solder will alloy with the nickel.
Practice if first on a similar material.
Dave
--
Blow my nose to email me

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 8:15 am
From: jeff_wisnia

john hamilton wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.
>
>

Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
by now? <G>

Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 1:40 pm
From: geoff

In message <i4cus3$7c2$1@news.eternal-september.org>, J Burns
<burns4@nowhere.com> writes
>Ralph Mowery wrote:
>> "Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
>>news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
>>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>>> solder.
>>>
>> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a
>>very hot iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get
>>out quick. The tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If
>>he applies a low heat, the plastic will get a lot of heat on it
>>before the tab gets hot enough to melt the solder.
>
>Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation.

Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
just purchased

"Temperature of the soldering tip

High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
the component sensitive with temperature

Cleaning

The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
week so the soldering tip can keep the function

After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"

so now you know ...

--
geoff

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 1:47 pm
From: geoff

In message <OMCdnaRJ3JTuxPfRnZ2dnUVZ8n-dnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
Kellerman <"kellerman <snot>"@?.?.invalid> writes
>On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
>will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.

No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
to the base copper underneath just before soldering

Simples

FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it

you lot are turning this into a major project

--
geoff

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 2:07 pm
From: Grant

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:15:59 -0400, jeff_wisnia <jwisniaDumpThisPart@conversent.net> wrote:

>john hamilton wrote:
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
>by now? <G>
>
>Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)

I claim only four decades ;) You be there before flux cored solder?

Wonder when that came out?

I remember my father wanted to replace the needle and cartridge in
the record player (over 40 years ago, one of old things that stacked
several LPs). So he bought the new cartridge, a roll of rosin cored
solder and a small solid copper iron one heated on the gas stove...

Worked too! He used to be a TV serviceman, up until the splat off a
picture tube threw him across a room, a career changing moment.

Grant.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 2:28 pm
From: David Taylor

On 2010-08-17, geoff <troll@uk-diy.org> wrote:
>
> After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
>

I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.

--
David TAylor

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:33 pm
From: Tabby

On Aug 16, 6:43 pm, "john hamilton" <bluesta...@mail.invalid> wrote:
> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull.  Thanks.

If you really cant solder it, wrap the wire through the tags, then
round them a couple of times, then slide a bit of stretched rubber
tube over it. Solder's best though.

NT

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:40 pm
From: Jim Yanik

David Taylor <davidt-news@yadt.co.uk> wrote in news:slrni6lvng.r7s.davidt-
news@outcold.yadt.co.uk:

> On 2010-08-17, geoff <troll@uk-diy.org> wrote:
>>
>> After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"
>>
>
> I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.
>

you're FEEDING THE TROLL. stop that.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:51 pm
From: Grant

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:47:25 +0100, geoff <troll@uk-diy.org> wrote:

>In message <OMCdnaRJ3JTuxPfRnZ2dnUVZ8n-dnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
>Kellerman <"kellerman <snot>"@?.?.invalid> writes
>>On 16/08/2010 18:43, john hamilton wrote:
>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
>>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>>
>>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>>
>>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
>>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
>>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>>
>>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>>> gratefull. Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>The battery contact is likely to be nickel plated, consequently you
>>will need solder with ACTIVATED FLUX.
>
>No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
>to the base copper underneath just before soldering
>
>Simples
>
>FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it
>
>you lot are turning this into a major project

But those cheapie battery holders are difficult to solder, the plating
doesn't 'wet' easily. So cleaning it up first with emery paper, or
scratching it up is necessary so it will easily 'wet' and the solder
job work first time. Experience people know this, but beginners have
yet to learn which metals and surface conditions are easy to solder,
and which require more effort.

Sure, task at hand is easy, but promoting the larger picture might
help newbie get far more enjoyment from electronics, because they
learn some basic skills. Soldering is one of those basic skills.

Grant.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:45 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:epkao.20214$Dt3.13835@hurricane...
>
>
> "William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
> wrote in message news:ZbqdnWGcB-688fTRnZ2dnUVZ_q2dnZ2d@mchsi.com...
>> Hi!
>>
>>> As Mark says, but I would also feel inclined to check the soldering on
>>> the
>>> output devices, as Pans and Technics are buggers for bad joints on any
>>> heatsink-attached devices, on virtually any models.
>>
>> I did try playing through all the sources and they're all equally
>> affected.
>> Output from the Tape REC connection is clean and undistorted. The
>> controls
>> on the unit are clean and in good shape, push buttons and sliders alike.
>>
>> I've noticed bad soldering in these units. I was in the SA-560 at first
>> to
>> fix the nonworking indicator LEDs in the front panel. What little solder
>> there was on the ones that didn't work just vaporized when I touched it.
>> My
>> SA-929 had bad soldering on its protection relay coil connections. I also
>> have a Technics equalizer where many of the indicator lights above the
>> pushbuttons didn't work...and it was the same thing.
>>
>> So I'll take a look. It would be nice to get the unit running like it
>> should
>> again, and I would hope that I don't have to replace the STK2038 II
>> module.
>> There's a replacement on eBay but it's listed as a "generic" part and I'm
>> not sure how I feel about that. I would have reservations about its
>> quality
>> or ability to meet specifications.
>>
>> William
>>
>>
>
> I reckon about a 70% chance that you will find several 'cracked right
> round' joints on that STK, which may or may not be the source of your
> current problem, but which will need attending to anyway ...
>
> Arfa

The ones I've seen with the notoriously bad solder connections are much
later models using the SVI series outputs - not STK.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha RX730 tuner set up
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3df1889c7463a53?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:52 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
news:i4cc9c$s9f$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Hello all,
>
> I've got a Yamaha RX730 here and the AM is set for 9KHZ steps, and maybe
> 50us de-emphasis. Anyone got the instructions to change it? I'm guessing
> it a panel button press or a change in a jumper.
>
> Thanks!
> Tim Schwartz
> Bristol Electronics

I don't find an RX-730. Could that be RX-V730?

Mark Z.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 4:07 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4c6a69e7$0$16574$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> "Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
> news:i4cc9c$s9f$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I've got a Yamaha RX730 here and the AM is set for 9KHZ steps, and maybe
>> 50us de-emphasis. Anyone got the instructions to change it? I'm
>> guessing it a panel button press or a change in a jumper.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Tim Schwartz
>> Bristol Electronics
>
>
> I don't find an RX-730. Could that be RX-V730?
>
> Mark Z.

If it is the RX-V730, the model and destination version (U.S. , Japan, etc)
including (apparently) tuner version can be set through the servicer menu.

Let me know if you need the service manual.

Mark Z.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 6:00 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 06:07:15 -0500, Mark Zacharias wrote:

> "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:4c6a69e7$0$16574$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
>> "Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
>> news:i4cc9c$s9f$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I've got a Yamaha RX730 here and the AM is set for 9KHZ steps, and
>>> maybe 50us de-emphasis. Anyone got the instructions to change it?
>>> I'm guessing it a panel button press or a change in a jumper.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Tim Schwartz
>>> Bristol Electronics
>>
>>
>> I don't find an RX-730. Could that be RX-V730?
>>
>> Mark Z.
>
> If it is the RX-V730, the model and destination version (U.S. , Japan,
> etc) including (apparently) tuner version can be set through the
> servicer menu.
>
> Let me know if you need the service manual.
>
> Mark Z.

They are two different beasts.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/36b7fcb281eabc53?hl=en
==============================================================================

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Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:42 am
From: gabi sonnenschein

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-R210 Receiver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/895a543c71714c42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:55 am
From: Puddin' Man

I've got an old Technics SA-R210 stereo receiver from the 80's which I've relied
on for ages.

Woke up this morn and it played for a while, then <silence>. Powered down,
let it sit 10 min., powered up and it worked again for 15 min., then <silence>.

Receiver is in a cabinet with little ventilation. Obviously likely to be a
heat related problem.

Does this suggest a particular component? I can bench-test, solder a little.
How difficult to repair DIY??

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 10:56 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 16, 6:51 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 07:15:02 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > On Aug 16, 3:55 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:28:47 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> >> > On Aug 16, 2:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> >> >> > On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> >> >> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> >> >> >> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
> >> >> >> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >> >> >> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>
> >> >> >> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>
> >> >> >> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz
> >> >> >> single core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT
> >> >> >> mode the RAM and the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>
> >> >> > After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
> >> >> > running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day
> >> >> > after it didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even
> >> >> > disabled both cpus in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware
> >> >> > monitoring program to investigate situation but nothing helps,
> >> >> > only curious thing is that trying to access ACPI temperature
> >> >> > values the pc suddenly powered down.
>
> >> >> > Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery"
> >> >> > with 12V PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I
> >> >> > still have to determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware
> >> >> > fault. When running on normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change
> >> >> > the options for the power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed,
> >> >> > and that was when it didn't worked any more that way. Power
> >> >> > buttons options can be changed without problem running on battery.
> >> >> > On battery the pc can run for hours, but it seems that stressing
> >> >> > it a bit and leaving it alone leads to a freeze or a sudden power
> >> >> > down, maybe when the power management decides to do something,
> >> >> > something that I cannot know as I simply find the pc hanging on or
> >> >> > completely powered off.
>
> >> >> > I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the
> >> >> > power section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are
> >> >> > small SMD, and you can just identify them by being marked
> >> >> > C<number> as I think all resistors are R<number>.
>
> >> >> > The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to
> >> >> > test those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and
> >> >> > solder them again, and they are soooo small... there are smd
> >> >> > three-legs transistor components too, but I do not think I would
> >> >> > be able to check them.
>
> >> >> > Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can
> >> >> > be checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.
>
> >> >> You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
> >> >> installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
> >> >> voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on
> >> >> your Intel based board. And it's a free utility.
>
> >> >>http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-
> >> Monitor.s...
>
> >> >> All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.
>
> >> > thank you, I tried one but didn't give me voltages, all other values
> >> > are normal, accessing ACPI temperatures leaded to a sudden power off,
> >> > will have a try with other monitoring software
>
> >> > in the while I'm also looking a cheap compatible CPU, I am still not
> >> > that sure it's a mainboard fault
>
> >> I'd have to assume that Toshiba still uses a proprietary ACPI
> >> interface. My Satellite 1905-S301 has it's own Toshiba power management
> >> console.
>
> >> I doubt it's the CPU but rather the ACPI hardware. If it is the CPU and
> >> you get a cheap replacement that would be great, I would be wrong and
> >> it wouldn't be the first time.
>
> > I will give it a try as I found a cheap CPU, I'll test it and will
> > resell it in case, but at least I will be sure mine is ok.
>
> > As "ACPI hardware" seems to be guilty, where should I look for on the
> > motherboard and what should I check first? There are so many small
> > capacitors around... may it be a custom chip?
>
> Good question. Maybe a program like Belarc Advisor could tell you what
> device(s) is/are responsible. I think it's another freeware app so you
> may check it out.

what can we say from this:

Computer Profile Summary
Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP)
Profile Date: martedì 17 agosto 2010 19:48:57
Advisor Version: 8.1m
Windows Logon: mike

Operating System System Model
Windows 7 Ultimate (build 7600)
Install Language: English (United States)
System Locale: Italian (Italy) TOSHIBA Satellite A205
PSAF0U-01Q009
System Serial Number: 37252508Q
Enclosure Type: Other
Processor a Main Circuit Board b
1,73 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
64-bit ready
Multi-core (2 total)
Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL VALLEY(NAPA)
CRB
BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007
Drives Memory Modules c,d
79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev
3.ALC, SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable Installed
Memory

Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
Local Drive Volumes

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
Network Drives
None detected
Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers
local user accounts last logon
mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
local system accounts
Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin)
Guest never
HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41

DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked account

Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX:
Microsoft XPS Document Writer on XPSPort:
Controllers Display
ATA Channel 0 [Controller]
ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family [Display adapter]
(2x)
Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
Bus Adapters Multimedia
Texas Instruments PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller
Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8
Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9
Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA
Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB
Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC
High Definition Audio Device
Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group Policies
Microsoft Security Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0
Realtime File Scanning On
None discovered
Communications Other Devices

Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
Gateway: 192.168.178.1
Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface

Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
Microsoft AC Adapter
Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery
Microsoft Composite Battery
HID-compliant consumer control device
HID-compliant device
USB Input Device (2x)
HID Keyboard Device
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller
USB Composite Device
USB Root Hub (5x)
Generic volume shadow copy

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 2:07 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:58 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

> what can we say from this:
>
> Computer Profile Summary
> Computer Name: W (in WORKGROUP)
> Profile Date: martedì 17 agosto 2010 19:48:57 Advisor Version:
8.1m
> Windows Logon: mike
>
>
> Operating System System Model
> Windows 7 Ultimate (build 7600)
> Install Language: English (United States) System Locale: Italian (Italy)
> TOSHIBA Satellite A205 PSAF0U-01Q009
> System Serial Number: 37252508Q
> Enclosure Type: Other
> Processor a Main Circuit Board b
> 1,73 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo
> 64 kilobyte primary memory cache
> 2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache
> 64-bit ready
> Multi-core (2 total)
> Not hyper-threaded Board: Intel Corporation CAPELL VALLEY
(NAPA) CRB
> BIOS: Phoenix Technologies LTD 5.20 10/25/2007 Drives
Memory Modules
> c,d
> 79,92 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity 67,18 Gigabytes Hard Drive
> Free Space
>
> ST980210AS [Hard drive] (80,03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n 5QY0S80G, rev 3.ALC,
> SMART Status: Healthy 1016 Megabytes Usable Installed
Memory
>
> Slot 'M1' has 512 MB
> Slot 'M2' has 512 MB
> Local Drive Volumes
>
>
> c: (NTFS on drive 0) 79,92 GB 67,18 GB free
> Network Drives
> None detected
> Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers local
user
> accounts last logon
> mike 17/08/2010 07:21:31 (admin)
> local system accounts
> Administrator 14/07/2009 06:53:58 (admin) Guest never
> HomeGroupUser$ 17/08/2010 19:05:41
>
> DISABLED Marks a disabled account; LOCKED OUT Marks a locked account
>
> Microsoft Shared Fax Driver on SHRFAX: Microsoft XPS Document Writer
> on XPSPort: Controllers Display
> ATA Channel 0 [Controller]
> ATA Channel 1 [Controller]
> Intel(R) 82801GBM/GHM (ICH7-M Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller -
> 27C4 Mobile Intel(R) 945 Express Chipset Family [Display
adapter]
> (2x)
> Generic PnP Monitor (15,4"vis)
> Bus Adapters Multimedia
> Texas Instruments PCI-8x12/7x12/6x12 CardBus Controller Intel(R) 82801G
> (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7
> Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC High Definition Audio
> Device
> Virus Protection [Back to Top] new Group Policies
Microsoft Security
> Essentials Version 2.1.6805.0
> Scan Engine Version 1.1.6004.0
> Virus Definitions Version 1.87.1998.0 Realtime File Scanning On
> None discovered
> Communications Other Devices
>
> Marvell Yukon 88E8039 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller
> primary Auto IP Address: 192.168.178.29 / 24
> Gateway: 192.168.178.1
> Dhcp Server: 192.168.178.1
> Physical Address: 00:A0:D1:72:93:47
> Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
> Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
>
> Networking Dns Server: 192.168.178.1
> Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
> Microsoft AC Adapter
> Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery Microsoft Composite
> Battery
> HID-compliant consumer control device HID-compliant device
> USB Input Device (2x)
> HID Keyboard Device
> Standard PS/2 Keyboard
> SDA Standard Compliant SD Host Controller USB Composite Device
> USB Root Hub (5x)
> Generic volume shadow copy

Unfortunately I don't see any specific mentioning ACPI hardware except
the battery.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opinions Requested - new 50"+ LCD TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf577b60155035fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 2:39 pm
From: Meat Plow

Well I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector.
Not because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size
or slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with
super high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US.
What are some choices and their advantages?

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:04 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.08.17.21.38.55@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...

> Well, I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector.
> Not because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
> resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size
> or slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with
> super high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US.
> What are some choices and their advantages?

Panasonic's plasma sets generally get very good reviews, though their claim
of an "infinite black" doesn't match what Pioneer achieved in its last and
final Kuro models.

I've always liked Sony's better LCD sets. Quite a spectacular picture.

If the set has "local dimming", be sure it's shut off before judging the
picture.

Another thing... LCD sets with interpolated frames (a feature plasma sets
don't need) often turn a film image into something that looks like
videotape. Again, be sure this feature is turned off when evaluating the
set.

I doubt there are any 50" Kuros still around (and they went for $4K), but
you might look.

Although they require careful break-in, I'd look at plasma sets first.
They're better than LCD in every respect, except absolute brightness. I've
owned mine for over a year, and am still awed when I turn it on.

If you believe Consumer Reports, flat-screen sets, regardless of make,
model, or technology, are generally reliable.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:29 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:04:33 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.08.17.21.38.55@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>
>> Well, I'm going to replace my 11 yr old 51" Panasonic projector. Not
>> because it doesn't work, actually works very well. It's highest
>> resolution is 480p. I'll be shopping for a new LCD set equal in size or
>> slightly larger soon. Of course I want a great fast picture with super
>> high contrast. And reliability. I might spend around $3000 US. What are
>> some choices and their advantages?
>
> Panasonic's plasma sets generally get very good reviews, though their
> claim of an "infinite black" doesn't match what Pioneer achieved in its
> last and final Kuro models.
>
> I've always liked Sony's better LCD sets. Quite a spectacular picture.
>
> If the set has "local dimming", be sure it's shut off before judging the
> picture.
>
> Another thing... LCD sets with interpolated frames (a feature plasma
> sets don't need) often turn a film image into something that looks like
> videotape. Again, be sure this feature is turned off when evaluating the
> set.
>
> I doubt there are any 50" Kuros still around (and they went for $4K),
> but you might look.
>
> Although they require careful break-in, I'd look at plasma sets first.
> They're better than LCD in every respect, except absolute brightness.
> I've owned mine for over a year, and am still awed when I turn it on.
>
> If you believe Consumer Reports, flat-screen sets, regardless of make,
> model, or technology, are generally reliable.

Is plasma not an outgoing technology? And if it is what ramifications
would one expect for service?

As far as reliability goes, my now 3 yr old Olevia 32" LCD still performs
without flaw even though the maker Syntax Brillian (spelling?) has gone
belly-up.

Thanks for the reply, Panasonic is one of the handful I give serious
consideration.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Is plasma not an outgoing technology? And if it is what
> ramifications would one expect for service?

Not at all. Several companies manufacture plasmas, and no one has said
anything about discontinuing them. Pioneer made expensive models, and
dropped out for several reasons, one of which was the bad economy.

> Thanks for the reply. Panasonic is one of the handful
> I give serious consideration.

No problemo. Perhaps others will have more-specific suggestions.

I assume you know to make sure the set is adjusted for normal viewing, and
not set at the "eye blasting" factory-default levels.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:50 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:31:40 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> Is plasma not an outgoing technology? And if it is what ramifications
>> would one expect for service?
>
> Not at all. Several companies manufacture plasmas, and no one has said
> anything about discontinuing them. Pioneer made expensive models, and
> dropped out for several reasons, one of which was the bad economy.
>
>
>> Thanks for the reply. Panasonic is one of the handful I give serious
>> consideration.
>
> No problemo. Perhaps others will have more-specific suggestions.
>
> I assume you know to make sure the set is adjusted for normal viewing,
> and not set at the "eye blasting" factory-default levels.

Yeah anything I viewed on display I would certainly take out of demo mode
or review the picture settings. At home I watch in low-light conditions.
I haven't turned a TV on here for 7 days. And then just to set up the
week's DVR recording. I might watch 10 hours a week so the new set will
gather dust.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LA4112 amp ic datasheet?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 17 2010 3:53 pm
From: b

...any ideas on where to get a good quality pdf of this sanyo la4112
ic? the ones I have seen online have been awful - blurred, japanese
scans.
here's hoping.
cheers, B

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