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TOPIC: THANKS GOD I GOT $2500 FROM PAYPAL ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/220ff88c036f51b9?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 7:14 pm
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TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
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== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 8:15 pm
From: J Burns

Ralph Mowery wrote:
> "Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> news:8ctifbFl54U2@mid.individual.net...
>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, john hamilton wrote:
>>
>>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>>> small soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself
>>> easily melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get
>>> anything to stick to the tabs.
>> To add to the other suggestions about soldering: if you can get/borrow a
>> temperature controlled iron, run it at a lower temperature and use 63/37
>> solder.
>>
>
> That is usually the wrong way to do the job he wants to do. Use a very hot
> iron, hit the joint fast with a lot of heat and then get out quick. The
> tabs will get hot very quick and melt the solder. If he applies a low heat,
> the plastic will get a lot of heat on it before the tab gets hot enough to
> melt the solder.

Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
can work much faster.

I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
could soften.

Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
where the wires are crimped.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 8:42 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a small
> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
> upwards giving some clearence).
>
> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>
> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in the
> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it unwinding.
> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>
> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
> gratefull. Thanks.

Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
leads to the leads coming from the toy.

Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
with a paragraph.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:17 pm
From: "tm"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-E25BE0.20421816082010@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <i4btbg$m7c$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "john hamilton" <bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:
>
>> I have to connect this AAA battery holder to a toy. Although I have a
>> small
>> soldering iron, my soldering skills are poor. I can see myself easily
>> melting all the plastic around the contacts before I can get anything to
>> stick to the tabs. (The part of the tabs with the small hole will bend
>> upwards giving some clearence).
>>
>> http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4
>>
>> My immediate plan is to poke a few strands of wire through the holes in
>> the
>> connection tabs twist and then apply some nail varnish to stop it
>> unwinding.
>> Since its a toy it does not need to be totally foolproof.
>>
>> If anyone had any ideas that were a bit more sophisticated I would be
>> gratefull. Thanks.
>
> Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
> leads to the leads coming from the toy.
>
> Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
> solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
> knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
> with a paragraph.

No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:31 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <i4d2fc$1c2h$1@adenine.netfront.net>,
"tm" <the_obamunist@whitehouse.gov> wrote:

> No, not for mil spec results. But this is just a friggin toy. Solder it.

The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
melts the one he has trying to solder it.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 10:15 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:43:08 +0100, "john hamilton"
<bluestar95@mail.invalid> wrote:

Sigh. No imagination left on Usenet. OK, no soldering or heat
allowed. Some ideas.

>http://tinypic.com/r/iqx3pf/4

Plan A: Looks like the rivets used to mount the contacts have a
through hole in them. Shove a 2-56 flat head bolt through the hole
from the inside. Put two washers, lockwasher, and a nut on the
outside. Wrap the wire around the bolt between the washers and
tighten the nut. If you can't find a bolt that fits, you might be
able to find a suitable copper rivet. Beat on it with a hammer to
assemble.

Plan B: Thread the rivet hole and insert a lockwasher and 2 washer
sandwitch held in place with a small bolt. Getting the bolt length
correct will be the major challenge.

Plan C: Strip off about 3cm of wire from the leads. Bend into a
spiral. Shove the spiral between the battery contacts and the
matching rivet and spring. Be sure you have a good electrical
connection. Wrap the whole mess in giant shrink tube, electrical
tape, duct tape, or just bury it in hot melt glue. Whatever it takes
to keep the wires from moving.

Plan D: Buy a dual AAA cordless phone battery pack. They usually
have two leads and a connector. Chop off the connector, strip the
leads, and twist the matching wires together. Wrap with electrical
tape or use shrink tube.

Plan E: Brute force cold welding. If the wires are copper, you can
just run them through the holes in the terminals and pound everything
flat with a small hammer and anvil. The copper will cold flow and
eventually create a solid connection. You may need to add additional
soft copper wire filler to get a proper connection. See any jewelry
maker or blacksmith for details.

Plan F: Forget the holder and just spot weld wires directly to the
battery. This is far more fun than learning to solder as it throws
spark and hot slag all over the place.
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yabesdeGKJo>
Since you probably don't have a cazapitive discharge spot welder, drag
it down to the local Batteries Plus store and have them do it.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 10:34 pm
From: "rp"

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:32:05 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck wrote:

>Take it to the local TV repair guy, and ask him to teach you how to do
>it, so you'll be prepared for next time.

My dad taught me to solder back in the early sixties.

He got a block of wood and hammered a load of those little nails that
you use to hold hardboard in and told me to join all of them together
with wire. We had a stick of solder about an eighth of an inch thick
and a tub of flux and the first one I did was a mess but after about 20
or so they were neat.

With those plastic battery boxes I've found you have to have a nice big
bit in a hot iron and be quick, more than about a second and the
plastic melts. I put the wire through the hole and wrap it around
itself to make a mechanically good joint or if it's solid core bend it
through the hole and nip it up with pliers. Put the tip on the tag and
the wire and poke solder at the join between the two. You can't do them
with a little Antex, it transfers heat so slowly that the plastic melts
before the solder. It's the Weller W50-D for this sort of connection
:-)

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

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