sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to buy a small wheel hub motor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bff5998ba56db04d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 12:18 am
From: John Doe

Smitty Two <prestwhich earthlink.net> wrote:

> John Doe <jdoe usenetlove.invalid> wrote:
>
>> Specifically, where can I buy a high quality small wheel hub motor
>> (with wheel) like the one used for powered Trikkes?
>>
>> http://www.trikke.com/hd_2/Refurbished-Trikkes/Tribred-E-Kit-Upgrade
>>
>> http://www.trikke.com/CU_frontwheel.jpg
>>
>> Or some other small wheel (16 inches or less) hub motor?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
> You can buy shit almost anywhere,

How about a high quality small wheel hub motor (with wheel) like
the one used for powered Trikkes?

> but if you want the best, there's only one company.
>
> http://www.heinzmann.de/en

Apparently they are not for sale there.
--

> Path: news.astraweb.com!border5.newsrouter.astraweb.com!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!feeder.erje.net!eternal-september.org!feeder.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: Smitty Two <prestwhich earthlink.net>
> Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair,sci.electronics.basics
> Subject: Re: Where to buy a small wheel hub motor?
> Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 22:43:08 -0700
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 18
> Message-ID: <prestwhich-9B969F.22430830082010 mx01.eternal-september.org>
> References: <4c7bf737$0$5985$c3e8da3 news.astraweb.com>
> Injection-Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 05:43:08 +0000 (UTC)
> Injection-Info: mx01.eternal-september.org; posting-host="FaCjb1syCep1FdwjGLL1rw"; logging-data="9727"; mail-complaints-to="abuse eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX1/b2bE8Rf5i3lRkHSiCxGBN8Yl53rl/Sh8="
> User-Agent: MT-NewsWatcher/3.4 (PPC Mac OS X)
> Cancel-Lock: sha1:pX4AzcoVYMjZvuWJ9WI5hlmIooc=
>

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 7:15 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 05:22:48 +0000, John Doe wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> John Doe wrote:
>>
>>> Specifically, where can I buy a high quality small wheel hub motor
>>> (with wheel) like the one used for powered Trikkes?
>>>
>>> http://www.trikke.com/hd_2/Refurbished-Trikkes/Tribred-E-Kit-Upg rade
>>>
>>> http://www.trikke.com/CU_frontwheel.jpg
>>>
>>> Or some other small wheel (16 inches or less) hub motor?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>
>> Why not buy from the links you posted?
>
> Because that option does not exist.

First hit on Google.com

http://www.scootercatalog.com/750-watt-rear-hub-motor.html

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 7:23 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per John Doe:
>
>> but if you want the best, there's only one company.
>>
>> http://www.heinzmann.de/en
>
>Apparently they are not for sale there.

A lot of bike motors come from China and my experience is that
almost anything from China is iffey: might be OK, might be
junk... even the same make/model may vary greatly. I had one
item where they couldn't even thread a shaft properly and it had
to be replaced.

So, unless you can afford top dollar for something from a
European maker, the firewall between you and the Chinese maker
becomes important.

It's not whether something is going to go wrong or not. Things
*will* go wrong. Instead, it's how the retailer handles it.

I bought a complete eBike conversion kit from one little guy and
got what I'm pretty sure is a bad battery. His only response
was to tell me to ship it to some middleman via hazmat shipping
and see what the middleman says. This guy didn't even have
batteries in stock.

OTOH, I bought a motor from ebikes.ca, had an issue with a noise
from the motor, and they made it right immediately and
painlessly. I would definitely recommend these guys to anybody
they will ship to.
--
PeteCresswell

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 8:03 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <4c7cacd7$0$14397$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
John Doe <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote:

> > http://www.heinzmann.de/en
>
> Apparently they are not for sale there.

They are the manufacturer. I assumed you could find your own distributor
with a modicum of googling, or perhaps asking the manufacturer for names
of distributors in your area, *after* you've perused the manufacturer's
specs to select the correct motor for your application. I stand
unequivocally by my assertion that you will not find a better hub motor
than Heinzmann.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Best solder free electrical connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11e5e6461418f740?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 2:52 am
From: "Daniel Mandic"

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> Really? You have the Fiesta, when you scrap the Ford. :(

I don't remember a time when Ford was good in eu. In the seventies they
had nice looking cars and comfy, but the fuel consumption was too high
and they had rust problems. People drove 20l/100KM Fords in the
seventies, with a price of 11.7 Schilling per liter gasoline, that is
approximately a dollar today.
Today Fords are ugly and crappy (cheap though).

I go well with a II Golf/Jetta (built 1983-92). Affordable parts,
well-grounded design makes repair easy, light chassis and an
unbelieveable life-span.... not to mention the overdose of wax they
spent to the cavities. But only from 88-92, before they had also rust
problems.
Mine (1990 Jetta, 90HP, 1.8litres) is similar looking to the america
edition, but 200 Kilo lighter and some HP less. 6.4litres/100KM
minimum; 7 to 7.5 litres nominally ;-).

--
Daniel Mandic

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 3:44 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Daniel Mandic wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> > Really? You have the Fiesta, when you scrap the Ford. :(
>
> I don't remember a time when Ford was good in eu. In the seventies they
> had nice looking cars and comfy, but the fuel consumption was too high
> and they had rust problems. People drove 20l/100KM Fords in the
> seventies, with a price of 11.7 Schilling per liter gasoline, that is
> approximately a dollar today.
> Today Fords are ugly and crappy (cheap though).
>
> I go well with a II Golf/Jetta (built 1983-92). Affordable parts,
> well-grounded design makes repair easy, light chassis and an
> unbelieveable life-span.... not to mention the overdose of wax they
> spent to the cavities. But only from 88-92, before they had also rust
> problems.
> Mine (1990 Jetta, 90HP, 1.8litres) is similar looking to the america
> edition, but 200 Kilo lighter and some HP less. 6.4litres/100KM
> minimum; 7 to 7.5 litres nominally ;-).

I drive a Dodge Dakota pickup truck. I am disabled and can't get in
anything smaller, with my long legs. I've tried, and I have the scars
to prove it. :(

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yet another bulging-capacitors replacement
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ec97de65fce9bb3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 6:37 am
From: Jim Yanik

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Q_Xeo.1360$c_6.370@newsfe30.ams2:

>
>
> "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
> news:phnn76d5fjpcls7lfscj6t40hehqnc9db4@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:35:00 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 20:19:44 -0700 Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
>>>wrote in Message id: <ebug76lk13plippid57h6q6vacu8ve4om9@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>>I don't believe it. The winner of the power hogging consumer CPU
>>>>contest was the DEC/Intel Alpha 21364 (EV79):
>>>><http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_21364>
>>>>which burned 155 watts. Itanium II came close with 130 watts (per
>>>>core).
>>
>>>Check again.
>>>http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=43410&processor=9350&spec-codes=S
>>>LBMX 185W! Gotta love that price as well.
>>
>> I stand corrected.
>> <http://techreport.com/discussions.x/18445>
>> Some of the reader comments are rather interesting. Still, with any
>> of these "powerful" processors, a conventional air cooled machine is
>> going to have a very hot breath and a rather large power supply. I
>> just don't see this kind of power dissipation in a "dedicated game
>> machine". Measuring the AC mains power consumption should settle the
>> matter.
>>
>> --
>> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
>
>
> Have you any idea just how much processing power it takes to run a
> user-interactive story in real time, and then to 3D render the
> graphics in real time ? Do you think that they rate the 12v PSU for
> 23.5 amps in one version, and 32 amps in the other, for fun ? Those
> are not real questions, because I know full well when you stop and
> think about it, you know the answers, Jeff.
>
> I've just looked at the rating plate on the bottom of one of the
> cases, and it is 240v (nominal UK line voltage) at 1.8 amps. I make
> that a maximum input power of around 430 watts. It's a switching PSU,
> so I reckon that we can rate that as being at the very worst 80%
> efficient, so that's still 345 watts potentially going somewhere. I'm
> prepared to go with 45 watts into ancillary circuitry on the board,
> which still leaves around 300 watts going somewhere.

that assumes that all the power of the supply is actually used.
I'm sure there is some reserve capacity there.

"max input power" is not "actual used power".

> Perhaps I'm being
> naive, but my best guess is that it's disappearing into the two bloody
> great BGAs which the manufacturers are trying their utmost to
> heatsink. If you try to run one of these machines with the heatsinking
> not in place, it goes into thermal protect in about 5 seconds - and
> all it's doing then is booting. The heatplates on the BGAs are at this
> point hot enough to take your fingerprints off ...
>
> Nope, I'm pretty sure that these two puppies are good for 150 watts
> apiece, when the machine is doing some real work.
>
> Arfa
>
>

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 9:35 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 01:26:23 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Have you any idea just how much processing power it takes to run a
>user-interactive story in real time, and then to 3D render the graphics in
>real time ?

Well, no. I'm not a power user. What little rendering I do is with
bacon fat.

>Do you think that they rate the 12v PSU for 23.5 amps in one
>version, and 32 amps in the other, for fun ? Those are not real questions,
>because I know full well when you stop and think about it, you know the
>answers, Jeff.

Actually, I don't know. I don't have any customers with such machines
and have had zero experience with high power graphic workstations
(other than early 1980's Applicon CAD stations) or game machines. I
have worked on various network servers, which do burn such power
levels. I have looked at a 3D MRI image processor, which had some
manner of dedicated processor inside, but it certainly wasn't belching
400 watts of heat (my estimate by the amount of fan noise).

>I've just looked at the rating plate on the bottom of one of the cases, and
>it is 240v (nominal UK line voltage) at 1.8 amps. I make that a maximum
>input power of around 430 watts. It's a switching PSU, so I reckon that we
>can rate that as being at the very worst 80% efficient, so that's still 345
>watts potentially going somewhere. I'm prepared to go with 45 watts into
>ancillary circuitry on the board, which still leaves around 300 watts going
>somewhere. Perhaps I'm being naive, but my best guess is that it's
>disappearing into the two bloody great BGAs which the manufacturers are
>trying their utmost to heatsink. If you try to run one of these machines
>with the heatsinking not in place, it goes into thermal protect in about 5
>seconds - and all it's doing then is booting. The heatplates on the BGAs are
>at this point hot enough to take your fingerprints off ...
>
>Nope, I'm pretty sure that these two puppies are good for 150 watts apiece,
>when the machine is doing some real work.

Ok, I stand corrected. I've been assuming that the CPU's are doing
most of the power dissipation. I didn't think of a dedicated graphics
processor or whatever the BGA chips are doing. Do you have a gun
style IR thermometer? I use that to determine if anything is running
hot. I use a black (non-reflective) cardboard tube attached to the
lens to prevent it from picking up adjacent components. Incidentally,
I have yet to find one where the laser dot actually points to where
the device is measuring when in close proximity. You can also get a
rough idea of how much effort is going into cooling. If the BGA's
burn more power than the CPU's, then they're going to need more
massive heat sinks and better air cooling. At 400 watts, I would
think they would have gone to heat pipes and external radiators or
maybe liquid cooling.

Incidentally, I repaired a P4 motherboard yesterday which used Artic
Silver. My guess is that there was about 5 times as much Artic Silver
smeared over the CPU (and down the sides where it does nothing) as
necessary. The stuff down the sides was still fluid, so at $10 for
3.5 grams, I saved the excess.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 9:56 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 09:35:11 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> ncidentally, I repaired a P4 motherboard yesterday which used Artic
> Silver. My guess is that there was about 5 times as much Artic Silver
> smeared over the CPU (and down the sides where it does nothing) as
> necessary. The stuff down the sides was still fluid, so at $10 for 3.5
> grams, I saved the excess.

Heh...reminds me of a previously repaired (not by me) QSC PLX series amp
I opened up and scraped about a pound of white paste out of it.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 6:04 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> This is quite a bit more dissipation than the average desktop, causing
> some things to be more critical.

Well, it used to be. ;-)

The Pentium 4 "Pres-hot" didn't earn that derogatory nickname for nothin'. I
cringe to think of multi-processor systems and how much heat they were
dumping into the air. I had a 3.4GHz Prescott P4 in a Dell Dimension 8300.
On hot days, it had no problem equaling the sound volume of a small canister
vacuum cleaner.

> 1. The less silicon grease used, the better.

I remember reading that somewhere. I'm not sure that everyone--including
some major manufacturers--got the memo. After removing the STK-2038 II
module from my Techics SA-310 receiver, I found a massive amount of heatsink
compound behind it. Wow.

> 2. All heat sinks and transistor bases are NOT flat.

Somtimes not by a *long* shot!

> 3. Compression pressure is important. None of the standard spring
> clip CPU heat sink holders come even close to optimum.

Really? I find that extremely surprising, especially as firmly as some of
them hold on. They really do *seem* to be doing a good job.

Sometimes the heatsink compound has established a tight enough bond that the
processor comes out firmly glued to the bottom of the heatsink, without so
much as releasing the ZIF socket lever. I've seen that on Socket 478 and
AM2+ boxen before. It's kind of scary to look down and realize the processor
isn't where it should be!

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Digimate L-1715 inverter part ID needed
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7777d19925a9def?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 7:09 am
From: Clyde

On 28/08/2010 09:07, Franc Zabkar wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:56:07 +0100, Clyde
> <mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and
> composed:
>
>> Hi. Just got a Digimate 17 inch monitor with no display. Found a bad
>> shottky diode on the inverter PCB so I replaced that and the fuse, now I
>> have a screen, however after a few minutes it starts to flicker badly,
>> on the inverter the transformer on the side I replaced the diode is
>> getting hot. After a bit of tracing I have found a small SMD (8 pin,
>> looks like an IC) which is shorted to all pins. I am unable to read the
>> tiny writing on top and can find no information on what the part is.
>> Does anyone have any idea, or possibly a schematic. Judging by the way
>> it is connected (there is an identical one on the other side of the
>> inverter, dual lamp) I think it may actually be a special kind of zener
>> diode.
>>
>> Anyway some numbers, the monitor is a Digimate L-1715 ( I believe the
>> inverter is used in a variety of other brands ). The inverter PCB is
>> part number IV185030HX. The part I need is identified as Q3 (maybe a
>> transistor?)
>>
>> Can anyone help?
>
> I'm confused. At one point you say the mystery device is a special
> zener diode, then you go on to say that it is a transistor. Are you
> talking about two different components?
>
> IME, 8-pin smd transistors are often MOSFETs. There is usually one
> gate pin, and several drain and source pins.
>
> Is there a control IC on the inverter board? If so, then its datasheet
> may have an application circuit that is similar to yours.
>
> - Franc Zabkar

Sorry, the only letter I could read on the top was "N" which when I
checked online mentioned a zener diode. However it is labeled Q3 which
suggests otherwise. I have since found out it is an N channel MOSFET. It
does have 3 pins tied on one side, 4 on the other and a single pin. It
is short-circuit to all pins.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT BABES
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/53f8649f20d8c129?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 9:06 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

HOT KERALA MALLU AUNTY WITHOUT SAREE

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/08/hot-photo.html

HOT ACTRESS IN A SEXY FEELING

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/hot-actress_29.html

KAJAL AGARWAL HOT BOOBS SHOW VIDEO

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/kajal-agarwal-boob-show.html

SNEHA HOTTEST BATH ROOM VIDEO

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/sneha-bath-room-video.html

SOUTH ACTRESS ASTHA BINGAL IN BATH

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/south-actress-astha-bingal-in-bath.html

SAMANTHA SEXY PHOTO ONLY FOR U

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/samantha-special.html

MAHESH AMISHA SEXY LIPKISS

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/amishapatel-lipkiss.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Does anybody fix CRT big screen/save the parts?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae926ce5c324ba0c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 10:09 am
From: Sofa Slug

Bruce Esquibel wrote:
> bob u <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote:
>> Just taking a pole on whether its work saving parts from tube type big
>> screen TV's. I have one i am about to junk or give away. Put new CRT
>> and one drive board in it, and it had other issues. sat for years.
>
>> I am clearing space now, and debating if to save anything at all
>> or dump it. It seems on the resale market they are virtually
>> worthless with the advent of Plasma and LCD big screens.
>> The same with CRT based computer monitors. I have a nice 19"
>> high end NEC that is working that i cannot sell for $20.
>
>> It really does not matter how much the parts are worth, if you
>> never use them why save them?
>
> I don't see the point, I'm pretty confident "they arent going to make a
> comeback".
>
> Here in Chicago you can still toss them in the alley and the city will take
> them as part of the regular trash pickup. They "suggest" bringing them to a
> recycle center, but isn't mandatory as with other major cities.
>
> I hate doing that because the truck guys (can collectors, scrap dudes) will
> smash off the back, usually breaking the tube, just to grab the copper off
> the defection coil. Then you have a pile of broken glass to deal with.
>
> I had both a 35" Zenith System 3 tv and 21" Mits Diamond Scan monitor and
> couldn't give either of them away. Both worked as well as you expected for
> their age, needed zero repairs and probably were considered "good
> condition". No interest at all.
>
> So why bother parting them out, if no one wants it free, whole and working,
> who is going to get one fixed where the parts would of use?
>
> Heh, I still have 3 or 4 console tv's and one Grundig console radio down in
> the basement for the same reason, 20 years ago I figured they would be
> parted out and worth something.
>
> Now it looks like I have pay 1-800-junk to get rid of them.
>
> -bruce
> bje@ripco.com

I have had great success using 'Freecycle' <http://www.freecycle.org> to
dispose of old electronics. It's been a win-win for me - I get rid of
something I don't want, and the person picking it up is usually
delighted to have it.

I've also donated similar items to Goodwill. In Southern California at
least, they will take just about any electronic device, working or not.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 5:50 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Just taking a pole on whether its work saving parts from tube type big
> screen TV's. I have one i am about to junk or give away. Put new
> CRT and one drive board in it, and it had other issues. sat for years.

I don't usually do so, but then again, I don't make a habit of working on
that stuff and I won't touch rear projection TVs.

I usually do pull parts like speakers, power cords and "other stuff" that
might be useful in other projects. My 1997 vintage Magnavox 19" table TV got
a speaker from a Zenith 27" console when the original speaker was damaged.

When people have asked me about repairing their old RPTV, I have usually
always suggested that they look at something newer. Many times the existing
set has just been worn out from lots of watching or troublesome all of its
life.

> The same with CRT based computer monitors. I have a nice 19"
> high end NEC that is working that i cannot sell for $20.

On the other hand, I do favor these, for one big reason: If you have to run
at less than native resolution, a CRT monitor is really the *only* way to go
and still have a clear, sharp display. LCDs do better at this than they used
to, but you can still see the clear signs of scaling the image up to fit.

I still have many CRTs, lots of 17" ones, a few SVGA/VGA 14 and 15 inchers,
a monochrome VGA display or two and two 19" units. There's also one 25" NEC
behemoth that works but has a well used picture tube. I don't see myself
getting rid of these because they work, there's really nothing wrong with
them and they are most definitely paid for. The monochrome displays are used
on devices where a text console is only occasionally needed.

When my one NEC MultiSync 95 died from bad filter caps, I did opt to fix it.

It's true enough that you can't save everything.

William

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 5:55 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Here in Chicago you can still toss them in the alley and the city will
take
> them as part of the regular trash pickup. They "suggest" bringing them to
a
> recycle center, but isn't mandatory as with other major cities.
>
> I hate doing that because the truck guys (can collectors, scrap dudes)
will
> smash off the back, usually breaking the tube, just to grab the copper off
> the defection coil. Then you have a pile of broken glass to deal with.

That would annoy me, but then again, I'm a big-time trashpicker. Sometimes I
have to work quite hard to say "no" to something that I see. It doesn't
matter what. Some things I fix up and sell cheap.

> I had both a 35" Zenith System 3 tv and 21" Mits Diamond Scan monitor and
> couldn't give either of them away. Both worked as well as you expected for
> their age, needed zero repairs and probably were considered "good
> condition". No interest at all.

I wouldn't have needed the TV, but I would have taken you up on the monitor.
Someone gave me a 27" Sanyo TV from 1999 in like new condition. Works like
new as well...and was very well kept by a person who kept all the pieces:
book, remote, box and other goodies. I'll probably have it for a long time,
I can't recall the last time I've watched TV.

> Heh, I still have 3 or 4 console tv's and one Grundig console radio down
in
> the basement for the same reason, 20 years ago I figured they would be
> parted out and worth something.

My grandfather has what must be one of the last console TVs made, a 2008
Zenith model with a 27" CRT. I think they finally threw in the towel on
those at last. Too bad, I'm one of those rare folks who liked them and would
have bought one new. (And I'm only 27!)

That console radio probably *does* have some value to the right person.
Tried asking in rec.antiques.radio+phono or a swap meet in your area?

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics KN800 MIDI keyboard no sound
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f95dad92d98851fc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:06 pm
From: Geoff C

I was given a Technics SX-KN800 keyboard and am trying to repair it. I have
opened it up and the six or so PCB's are easy to get at. The symptom is no
audio. The PA thumps through the speakers on turn off and the PA has power
supply OK so it is not a concern at the moment. The line out has no audio
either. Of course it is possible that a crash has occured but I cannot find
a reset so far. No audio is getting to the PA. I could not find any signal
at the master volume either, though it may not have real signal at it.

I believe it was made early to mid 90's. There are a lot of Technics
proprietery chips in it. I have an op manual for a KN1000 which is similar,
but no schematics appear anywhere I have seen.

What I would like to know is a general question about how the audio signal
is generated from the PCM pulse stream. It may be a simple LPF from a
digital chip which regenerates the audio, or there may be a specialised
audio chip to look for? If I can't go much further I will have to junk it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not working, what does this sign mean
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fe72ade24c7a7db?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:24 pm
From: Ignoramus20906

I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
until now. It seems very well made, overall.

Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg

It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
lock and an exclamation.

The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
degrees F.

I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
forbidden to give any diagnostics.

My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
something.

Thanks

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:30 pm
From: Pete Keillor

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:24:16 -0500, Ignoramus20906
<ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:

>I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
>from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
>until now. It seems very well made, overall.
>
>Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg
>
>It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
>lock and an exclamation.
>
>The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
>is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
>degrees F.
>
>I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
>forbidden to give any diagnostics.
>
>My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
>something.
>
>Thanks
>
>i

Don't know, but it's obviously a bar across a thermometer symbol.
Could mean anything from "it ain't cooling" (Duh.) to the
thermocouple/thermopile/temperature sensor's dirty. Manual ought to
say if you can find one. Good luck.

Pete Keillor

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:32 pm
From: Ignoramus20906

On 2010-08-31, Pete Keillor <keillorp135@chartermi.net> wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:24:16 -0500, Ignoramus20906
><ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:
>
>>I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
>>from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
>>until now. It seems very well made, overall.
>>
>>Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:
>>
>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg
>>
>>It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
>>lock and an exclamation.
>>
>>The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
>>is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
>>degrees F.
>>
>>I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
>>forbidden to give any diagnostics.
>>
>>My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
>>something.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>i
>
> Don't know, but it's obviously a bar across a thermometer symbol.
> Could mean anything from "it ain't cooling" (Duh.) to the
> thermocouple/thermopile/temperature sensor's dirty. Manual ought to
> say if you can find one. Good luck.

Pete, the manual is here:

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Kenmore-596.50013100-Manual.pdf

but it is not saying anything.

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:47 pm
From: Gunner Asch

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:24:16 -0500, Ignoramus20906
<ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:

This may be of some assistance in determining your code.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_appliance+fault+codes.aspx#Sears%20/%20Kenmore%20Fault%20Codes

It gives a listing of who actually made your applience, so you can then
look for their trouble codes

Gunner

I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:48 pm
From: Pete Keillor

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:32:05 -0500, Ignoramus20906
<ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:

>On 2010-08-31, Pete Keillor <keillorp135@chartermi.net> wrote:
>> On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:24:16 -0500, Ignoramus20906
>><ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>>I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
>>>from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
>>>until now. It seems very well made, overall.
>>>
>>>Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:
>>>
>>> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg
>>>
>>>It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
>>>lock and an exclamation.
>>>
>>>The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
>>>is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
>>>degrees F.
>>>
>>>I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
>>>forbidden to give any diagnostics.
>>>
>>>My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
>>>something.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>i
>>
>> Don't know, but it's obviously a bar across a thermometer symbol.
>> Could mean anything from "it ain't cooling" (Duh.) to the
>> thermocouple/thermopile/temperature sensor's dirty. Manual ought to
>> say if you can find one. Good luck.
>
>Pete, the manual is here:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Kenmore-596.50013100-Manual.pdf
>
>but it is not saying anything.
>
>i
Yup, that's pretty useless. Maybe there's a service manual, but a
cursory google didn't turn up anything useful. There's still stuff
you could inspect, like is the compressor running, and are the coils
dirty. Since it's showing the temperature, it probably isn't the
temperature sensor.

Pete Keillor

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:51 pm
From: Tim Wescott

On 08/31/2010 04:24 PM, Ignoramus20906 wrote:
> I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
> from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
> until now. It seems very well made, overall.
>
> Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg
>
> It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
> lock and an exclamation.
>
> The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
> is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
> degrees F.
>
> I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
> forbidden to give any diagnostics.
>
> My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
> something.

That's a picture of an English bobby. Obviously the food's been rioting
and they've hauled the compressor of to quod.

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 4:56 pm
From: wmbjkREMOVE@citlink.net

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:32:05 -0500, Ignoramus20906
<ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:

Check the condenser fan motor (under the grill at the back most
likely). Those things tend to be weak, even a barely motivated dust
bunny can stop them from turning. I had it happen to my fridge
recently. The fan motor would only start if I gave it a little help.
Dismantled the motor (not designed to be serviceable, but no sweat),
cleaned and reassembled, and it worked fine for a week until the new
one came. About $30 delivered. If you discover that the fan is the
culprit and can't get it going while waiting for the replacement, then
just aim a portable fan so that it moves air across the coils.

Wayne

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 5:33 pm
From: Ignoramus20906

I had a Eureka moment.

I understand what the sign means.

It means not much. It is a crossed thermometer and it means that the
fridge is unable to hold the preset temperature. Duh.

Why is it unable to do so, is the $64,000 question.

I opened up the back. I observe the following:

1) The condenser fan is running
2) The compressor (big heavy black part with copper pipes going in and
out of it) is quite hot to touch and is seemingly not running.

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 5:47 pm
From: "Bill"

Sometimes there are hidden coils in the freezer. An electric heater on a
timer will defrost these. If that is not working, it will be a solid block
of ice.

Try putting all your food in ice chests and let it defrost for 24 hours with
doors open (unplug it). Then plug it back in and see if it works.

If it works for a few weeks, then same problem again, then suspect the
defrost heater/timer.

As to fixing, if it is an old refrigerator, get a new one as those save
electricity and will pay for themselves in 5 years or so.

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 31 2010 6:07 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

That wouldn't be an indication of a "child safety lock" would it?

If so, try holding each button down for a few seconds to see if one shuts it
off. I'd think that maybe such a thing would be in the manual, but who
knows?

William

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