sci.electronics.repair - 19 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Denon UD-M50 alignment diagrams for this deck. Request.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/937f070eac79d2eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 4 2010 10:25 pm
From: "Sotiris Antoniou"

Please anybody has the alignment diagrams for this deck. I have trouble with
this. A service manual, I have does not show the alignment.
Thanks in advance.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 3:08 pm
From: Adrian C

On 05/09/2010 06:25, Sotiris Antoniou wrote:
> Please anybody has the alignment diagrams for this deck. I have trouble
> with this. A service manual, I have does not show the alignment.
> Thanks in advance.

There is a video file - "Sanyo 3CD Changer Alignment.zip" floating
around somewhere. Ping Arfa, the links on google are now a bit dead?

I had one some time back to repair. Really nice sound.

--
Adrian C

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 5:50 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Sotiris Antoniou" <samant@ath.forthnet.gr> wrote in message
news:1283664319.978037@athprx03...
> Please anybody has the alignment diagrams for this deck. I have trouble
> with this. A service manual, I have does not show the alignment.
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>

Mail me direct at the address used to post this, and I'll see if I can dig
the alignment video out. I've had a bit of a computer 'episode' since I made
it, but I'm sure it still exists on one of my data drives somewhere.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Plasma TV Foggy area
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e5cdc2b5ff03be3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 4:25 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4c821684$0$6000$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> "Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:TeydnWj5w-JXjxzRnZ2dnVY3goydnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>
>> "Randy Day" <randy.day@sasktel.netx> wrote in message
>> news:MPG.26eaccdb1b1fd1e19896c0@202.177.16.121...
>>> In article <VridnT16DI5klBzRnZ2dnVY3go2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
>>> mike@nospam.com says...
>>>> I don't have this tv in hand now and also don't have the make and model
>>>> of
>>>> this display at the moment but all I am looking for is general
>>>> information
>>>> for now.
>>>>
>>>> This tv has a smudged / blurry area on the screen. It looks almost like
>>>> it
>>>> is dirty from a oily hand but it doesn't wipe off. It is not a
>>>> rectangular
>>>> area.
>>>>
>>>> I am not familar with the common failure modes of Plasma displays. What
>>>> is
>>>> your best guess would cause this.
>>>
>>> Someone used solvent to clean the screen?
>>>
>>
>> Interesting idea.. That's a case where the screen could be fixed... I
>> will have a close look at it in a couple of days.
>> The price is right on this thing, but I don't want to sink money into it
>> if the screen is about to crap out.. Since that's the one piece that cant
>> be repaired.
>>
>
> Lets not get ahead of ourselves - do we know for sure it's really a plasma
> and not an LCD? My customers often confuse the two.
>
> If not damage to anti-glare coating which has been suggested, it does
> sound more like an LCD type problem to me.
>
> Mark Z.

To be honest Mark, I'm not sure that as described, it actually sounds like
any kind of display technology fault that I have seen. I would be struggling
to think of any kind of LCD problem that would result in an irregular
smudgy-looking mark, unless it was an actual physical mark on the surface of
the panel ...

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 10:03 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:D6Lgo.38838$Kp4.11704@newsfe22.ams2...
>
>
> "Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:4c821684$0$6000$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
>> "Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:TeydnWj5w-JXjxzRnZ2dnVY3goydnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>>
>>> "Randy Day" <randy.day@sasktel.netx> wrote in message
>>> news:MPG.26eaccdb1b1fd1e19896c0@202.177.16.121...
>>>> In article <VridnT16DI5klBzRnZ2dnVY3go2dnZ2d@giganews.com>,
>>>> mike@nospam.com says...
>>>>> I don't have this tv in hand now and also don't have the make and
>>>>> model of
>>>>> this display at the moment but all I am looking for is general
>>>>> information
>>>>> for now.
>>>>>
>>>>> This tv has a smudged / blurry area on the screen. It looks almost
>>>>> like it
>>>>> is dirty from a oily hand but it doesn't wipe off. It is not a
>>>>> rectangular
>>>>> area.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am not familar with the common failure modes of Plasma displays.
>>>>> What is
>>>>> your best guess would cause this.
>>>>
>>>> Someone used solvent to clean the screen?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Interesting idea.. That's a case where the screen could be fixed... I
>>> will have a close look at it in a couple of days.
>>> The price is right on this thing, but I don't want to sink money into it
>>> if the screen is about to crap out.. Since that's the one piece that
>>> cant be repaired.
>>>
>>
>> Lets not get ahead of ourselves - do we know for sure it's really a
>> plasma and not an LCD? My customers often confuse the two.
>>
>> If not damage to anti-glare coating which has been suggested, it does
>> sound more like an LCD type problem to me.
>>
>> Mark Z.
>
> To be honest Mark, I'm not sure that as described, it actually sounds like
> any kind of display technology fault that I have seen. I would be
> struggling to think of any kind of LCD problem that would result in an
> irregular smudgy-looking mark, unless it was an actual physical mark on
> the surface of the panel ...
>
> Arfa

I will let you know if I finally get a chance to see this thing again.. I
saw it very briefly and it wasn't a major flaw. Had I not been told about
it, I'm not sure that I would have noticed right off. Seeing it I thought
it was a very strange fault if electronic, but I haven't seen a plasma fail
except in getting darker or burn-in. Anyway. . Hopefully I will see it
tomorrow and solve this mystery.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Supergluing your fingers together
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27d3b5cbe57935fb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 4:27 am
From: David

In article <i5o8e6$9qk$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

> Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
> to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
> effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
> concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
> acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
> wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
> elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
> the other ?

If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic

David - with glue free fingers at the moment

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 4:39 am
From: "N_Cook"

David <postings@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message news:postings-04297C.21275105092010@news.bigpond.com...
> In article <i5o8e6$9qk$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
> > to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
> > effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
> > concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
> > acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
> > wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
> > elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand
to
> > the other ?
>
> If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
> felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic
>
> David - with glue free fingers at the moment

I think I will try introducing a dot of dye to the next tube I open ,as well
as store in airtight bottle with silica gel. Won't be able to change the
viscosity (lack of) but at least I might be able to see it. I was melding
part of one socket into another to make a match to a non standard plug and a
nice tight fit but that super capilliary action took the unknowing excess of
glue about half an inch travel to where there were holes to the outside,
where my fingers were.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 5:28 am
From: Ian Jackson

In message <postings-04297C.21275105092010@news.bigpond.com>, David
<postings@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> writes
>In article <i5o8e6$9qk$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
>> to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
>> effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
>> concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
>> acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
>> wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
>> elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
>> the other ?
>
>If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
>felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic
>
In my youth, I was a keen aeromodeller. When out flying, you often had
to do the inevitable 'running repairs', using balsa cement. This, of
course, took relatively ages to dry, compared with superglue, or even
contact adhesive (neither of which had been invented, of course). I
would have given my right arm for tube of superglue.
--
Ian

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yet another bulging-capacitors replacement
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ec97de65fce9bb3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 4:28 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:uis586hjidp9kgih2hv0ds91avngih0rp5@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 5 Sep 2010 01:17:10 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>Assuming that you're talking a 'standard' SM rework station with hot air
>>pencil, and not a multi-thousand dollar fixed rework station, then the one
>>I
>>recently purchased direct from China, was just 55 quid - about $85. Bit of
>>postage to add on of course, but at that sort of money, not too much
>>justification required, I would suggest ? Look on eBay for KADA 852D. Very
>>good value for money. I'm very pleased with mine. The eBay shop I bought
>>mine from (dragondirectmall I think it was), has a video on the site of
>>them
>>building one, so you can get an idea of the quality.
>
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370427912032>
> $124. I saw your previous reply to someone asking about SMD rework
> stations. The problem with the KADA 852D is that it only includes 5
> generic circular nozzles (2-10mm). I need the big square BGA nozzle
> assortment, which are about $100 extra from other vendors. I also
> can't seem to find any listing for KADA parts. The eBay listings does
> include one spare heater and soldering iron element. I've got two
> off-brand soldering irons I bought at various hamfests for which I
> can't find tips or repair parts. Kada looks good, but not good
> enough.
>
> What I'm looking at is, at $230.
> <http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/9766>
> It's twice as expensive, but has all the features I want (or could
> possibly want later). Also, lots of parts available. The tips are a
> useful assortment, but I'll still need to buy some QFP nozzles at
> about $18/ea. I borrowed this model for about 2 weeks and really
> liked using it.
>
> This is another possibility, as it includes 20 nozzles for $239:
> <http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8227>
> However, it leaves out the soldering iron and desoldering iron, so
> it's not really a fair comparison.
>
> What's stopping me is an impending $2,000 dental bill, which will
> greatly reduce my ability to buy new toys and tools.
>
>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

Blimey, and I thought 200 quid was expensive for a new tooth crown ... !!

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT ACTRESS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/39d4a5b67e2029d9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 6:37 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

AMISHAPATEL HOT BOOBS

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ARCHANA UNSEENED EXPOSING PHOTOS

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KATRINA KAIF HOT SEXY PHOTOS

http://babes-devi.blogspot.com/2010/07/katrina-sexy-looking-photos.html

THISHA HOT WET PHOTOS

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SEXY CHARMI IN A BATHROOM

http://babes-devi.blogspot.com/2010/06/charmi-in-bath.html

KAJALAGARWAL IN A ROMANTIC FEEL

http://babes-devi.blogspot.com/2010/06/kajal-hot-photos.html

NAMITHA IN A BEACH

http://babes-devi.blogspot.com/2010/06/nayagarala-namitha.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2D Florescent - 2pin/4pin.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/04b6fb3f4a74bd5a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 7:07 am
From: "ian field"

I have a 4 pin 2D light in the bathroom that flickers for a steadily
increasing length of time before starting and shimmers badly when it does
eventually start.

The local electrical retailer only has 2pin types, which I assume has a
built in starter.

My question is - can I use a 2pin tube in a 4pin fitting, but not the other
way round?

Thanks.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 8:16 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 05 Sep 2010 15:07:31 +0100, ian field wrote:

> I have a 4 pin 2D light in the bathroom that flickers for a steadily
> increasing length of time before starting and shimmers badly when it
> does eventually start.
>
> The local electrical retailer only has 2pin types, which I assume has a
> built in starter.
>
> My question is - can I use a 2pin tube in a 4pin fitting, but not the
> other way round?
>
> Thanks.

If it's not sealed just repair the ballast. Common failures are the
capacitors being underrated.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 8:38 am
From: "ian field"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.05.15.16.14@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Sun, 05 Sep 2010 15:07:31 +0100, ian field wrote:
>
>> I have a 4 pin 2D light in the bathroom that flickers for a steadily
>> increasing length of time before starting and shimmers badly when it
>> does eventually start.
>>
>> The local electrical retailer only has 2pin types, which I assume has a
>> built in starter.
>>
>> My question is - can I use a 2pin tube in a 4pin fitting, but not the
>> other way round?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
> If it's not sealed just repair the ballast. Common failures are the
> capacitors being underrated.

I'm seriously tempted to graft in the PCB from a CFL, but I only have 18W
CFLs and the 2D is 28W.

Past experiments have shown that a CFL PCB can bring new life to a tube that
was considered "worn out" in an iron ballast fitting.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4622204eedcb59f9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to buy a small wheel hub motor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bff5998ba56db04d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 10:18 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per John Doe:
>> http://www.scootercatalog.com/750-watt-rear-hub-motor.html
>
>That looks better than anything I have come up so far, and I am no
>slouch at research. Thanks.

Keep in mind that you need a controller and a battery: both of
which have to be compatible with the motor.
--
PeteCresswell

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Troubleshooting a dead Onkyo TX-SV727 Receiver - Pwr Supply Suspect
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c5c8a18b92fd995?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 11:10 am
From: electronic repair

Hello,

I've tried searching this group and looking for relevant information
but nothing really related to the basic troubleshooting I'm doing for
my dead Onkyo TX-SV727 Receiver.

BACKSTORY The electricity in my house is pretty janky and my
stereo may have been shorted out because of that. Basically, my wife
was listening to music when something happend and she saw the words
"Protect" come on the display.

TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS TAKEN
I checked the speaker wires and they had no damage (so that didn't
short it out). I tried replacing the fuse with several different
ones.
The stereo came with a T 6,3A 125V Fuse, but I could not find that
specific one in any of the shops here in Portland. I've tried 6A at
125V and also 5A at 220V but they all blow within seconds.
I've also inspected the power supply and there are no obvious scorch
marks or soder marks that look shorted out.

Please help me figure out what to do next.

Thanks!

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 11:46 am
From: Ken

electronic repair wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've tried searching this group and looking for relevant information
> but nothing really related to the basic troubleshooting I'm doing for
> my dead Onkyo TX-SV727 Receiver.
>
> BACKSTORY The electricity in my house is pretty janky and my
> stereo may have been shorted out because of that. Basically, my wife
> was listening to music when something happend and she saw the words
> "Protect" come on the display.
>
> TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS TAKEN
> I checked the speaker wires and they had no damage (so that didn't
> short it out). I tried replacing the fuse with several different
> ones.
> The stereo came with a T 6,3A 125V Fuse, but I could not find that
> specific one in any of the shops here in Portland. I've tried 6A at
> 125V and also 5A at 220V but they all blow within seconds.
> I've also inspected the power supply and there are no obvious scorch
> marks or soder marks that look shorted out.
>
> Please help me figure out what to do next.
>
> Thanks!
>

Now that you have tried a few things to see if you can see something
wrong, I would suggest you take it to someone who understands something
about electronics. Based upon your text above, I get the feeling you
would not be able to replace the faulty component even if it were
identified for you. This is NOT meant to be a slam, but advice that
might save you some money in the long run.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 5:46 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Ken" <Ken@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:i60oh6$p6u$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> electronic repair wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I've tried searching this group and looking for relevant information
>> but nothing really related to the basic troubleshooting I'm doing for
>> my dead Onkyo TX-SV727 Receiver.
>>
>> BACKSTORY The electricity in my house is pretty janky and my
>> stereo may have been shorted out because of that. Basically, my wife
>> was listening to music when something happend and she saw the words
>> "Protect" come on the display.
>>
>> TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS TAKEN
>> I checked the speaker wires and they had no damage (so that didn't
>> short it out). I tried replacing the fuse with several different
>> ones.
>> The stereo came with a T 6,3A 125V Fuse, but I could not find that
>> specific one in any of the shops here in Portland. I've tried 6A at
>> 125V and also 5A at 220V but they all blow within seconds.
>> I've also inspected the power supply and there are no obvious scorch
>> marks or soder marks that look shorted out.
>>
>> Please help me figure out what to do next.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>
> Now that you have tried a few things to see if you can see something
> wrong, I would suggest you take it to someone who understands something
> about electronics. Based upon your text above, I get the feeling you
> would not be able to replace the faulty component even if it were
> identified for you. This is NOT meant to be a slam, but advice that might
> save you some money in the long run.

Seconded. This is almost certainly an output stage failure, and in a DC
coupled amp such as this, may well be cascade in nature. These are
potentially tricky for the best of us, and a set of schematics, and the
ability to understand them in detail, is certainly required to even begin to
tackle this sort of problem. Depending on where exactly in the circuit the
fuse that's blowing is located, there is a slim possibility that it could
still be something simple in the power supply such as the bridge reccy, but
if you do not have experience of detailed fault location to component level,
I would agree with the good advice given by Ken, and consider taking it to a
reputable repair shop.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hakko 472 component values?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c9ff9388b00a649?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 11:33 pm
From: DaveC

Have a 473 (uses shop air to create vacuum via venturi) and would like to
retrofit internal vacuum pump to make it essentially a 472.

Have all the guts from 472 and want to stuff empty locations on 472/473 PCB
with components to make it 472-compatible.

Someone with a 472 be willing to convey a few (about 12) component values to
me?

PM me if you do.

Thanks.
Dave
sparkyguy442 (the yahoo place)

==============================================================================

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