http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp - 11 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
* Battery charger part - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8a9fedf5d5210b0?hl=en
* D&G jeans made in china (http://www.cntrade09.com ) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d3a32e038a320e0?hl=en
* Pioneer 100 disc CD player problems - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5263ce04af75aa85?hl=en
* LA4112 amp ic datasheet? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
* Monitor screen dark but LED stays green. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3e1f398f7842702?hl=en
* Philips CDR770 CD-R standalone recorder problems - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/30fe4ae7694fbb40?hl=en
* PHILIPS CDR-770 cd recorder problem - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6404cc8304b16a7d?hl=en
* American 16 Old College Girls Dating Videos - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2ee1baa3be59bb3e?hl=en
* Cable box is making a ticking noise - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be39a9de968f64c0?hl=en
* PHILIPS VR 675 help wanted ( vhs vcr ) - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/78705ff942d43a2f?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 12:32 am
From: David Nebenzahl
On 9/12/2010 10:47 PM thanatoid spake thus:
> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
>
>> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I
>> can't get the damn amp open.
>>
>> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
>> tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a
>> thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on
>> top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
>> http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis
>> has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I
>> removed, but I still can't get the chassis out of the case.
>> I tried prying the case, thinking there might be some
>> cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and I didn't want
>> to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
>>
>> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
>
> I have noticed that sometimes there is a screw (or more than
> one) under one (or more) stick-on label(s).
Good idea, but no screws lurking underneath labels here.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 12:40 am
From: "N_Cook"
David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4c8dd351$0$2404$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> On 9/12/2010 11:17 PM Bill Graham spake thus:
>
> > "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> > news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> >
> >> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't
> >> get the damn amp open.
> >>
> >> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
> >> unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
> >> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand.
> >> Similar to this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of
> >> the chassis has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back
> >> I removed, but I still can't get the chassis out of the case. I
> >> tried prying the case, thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I
> >> could open, but no luck, and I didn't want to risk chewing up the
> >> edge of the case.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
> >
> > Specifically, No....But I have sometimes found that they like to hide
screws
> > underneath the pasted on rubber feet, so you might investigate that.
>
> Nope, no feet on the bottom.
>
> > Also, inspect the cover carefully to see exactly which panels are
> > welded to what other panels, and you might get a clue as to where the
> > screws have to be in order for it to come apart......
>
> Nothing's welded to anything. Just a diecast chassis set into a plastic
> case that surrounds it.
>
>
> --
> The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
> with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
>
> - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
Tapping all over with screwdriver handle listening for tight spots?
== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 1:13 am
From: "Arfa Daily"
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get the
> damn amp open.
>
> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little unit,
> with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
> this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has 6
> screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I still
> can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case, thinking
> there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and I didn't
> want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
>
>
> --
Try emailing Galaxy and asking them ? They can only say no ...
Head up your email "Urgent - Please Pass to Service Department" You might
strike lucky and get a secretary that prints it out and passes it on without
'filtering' it. In my experience, most engineers don't mind helping others,
and unless the company has a really strict 'no help' policy, quite often if
you can get as far as direct communication with an engineer, you can get the
information you need.
Arfa
== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 4:41 am
From: "Arny Krueger"
"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com
> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because
> I can't get the damn amp open.
>
> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
> tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into
> a thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that can
> sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
> http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis
> has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I
> removed, but I still can't get the chassis out of the
> case. I tried prying the case, thinking there might be
> some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and I didn't
> want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
Sometimes loudspeakers (I see this product as a powered loudspeaker) are
entered by removing the largest driver.
== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 6:27 am
From: Meat Plow
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:32:15 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:
> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
> the damn amp open.
>
> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
> unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
> this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
> 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
> still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
> thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
> I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
You don't have the intelligence to open a can of soup.
stupid x-post to RAT defeated.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 7:57 am
From: Spamm Trappe
On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:27:46 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow wrote:
>
> You don't have the intelligence to open a can of soup.
>
> stupid x-post to RAT defeated.
>
As usual, when you have absolutely nothing of value to contribute,
you go right ahead and inject your vulgar, insipid banalities anyway.
== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:58 am
From: David Nebenzahl
On 9/13/2010 4:41 AM Arny Krueger spake thus:
> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com
>
>> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't
>> get the damn amp open.
>>
>> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
>> unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
>> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar
>> to this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the
>> chassis has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I
>> removed, but I still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried
>> prying the case, thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could
>> open, but no luck, and I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of
>> the case. Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
>
> Sometimes loudspeakers (I see this product as a powered loudspeaker)
> are entered by removing the largest driver.
Sorry, not helpful. Everything, including the largest (and only) driver,
is behind the diecast front panel/chassis. Nothing accessible from the
front except for the 6 screws I've removed.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:00 am
From: David Nebenzahl
On 9/13/2010 7:57 AM Spamm Trappe spake thus:
> On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:27:46 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> You don't have the intelligence to open a can of soup.
>>
>> stupid x-post to RAT defeated.
>
> As usual, when you have absolutely nothing of value to contribute,
> you go right ahead and inject your vulgar, insipid banalities anyway.
Thank you for that. I know I'm certainly not alone here in my opinion of
Meat Head.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:07 am
From: David Nebenzahl
On 9/13/2010 1:13 AM Arfa Daily spake thus:
> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
>
>> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't
>> get the damn amp open.
>>
>> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
>> unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
>> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand.
>> Similar to this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of
>> the chassis has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back
>> I removed, but I still can't get the chassis out of the case. I
>> tried prying the case, thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I
>> could open, but no luck, and I didn't want to risk chewing up the
>> edge of the case.
>>
>> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
>
> Try emailing Galaxy and asking them ? They can only say no ...
>
> Head up your email "Urgent - Please Pass to Service Department" You might
> strike lucky and get a secretary that prints it out and passes it on without
> 'filtering' it. In my experience, most engineers don't mind helping others,
> and unless the company has a really strict 'no help' policy, quite often if
> you can get as far as direct communication with an engineer, you can get the
> information you need.
Fine idea, and was my next tactic. As you say, what have I got to lose?
It'll be interesting to see what kind of response I'll get. I've had
good luck with this approach in the past.
--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:30 am
From: Adrian C
On 13/09/2010 08:32, David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> Nothing's welded to anything. Just a diecast chassis set into a plastic
> case that surrounds it.
>
Do the control knobs on the front come off to reveal spindle nuts?
--
Adrian C
== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 12:19 pm
From: PeterD
On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:00:16 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>On 9/13/2010 7:57 AM Spamm Trappe spake thus:
>
>> On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:27:46 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow wrote:
>>>
>>> You don't have the intelligence to open a can of soup.
>>>
>>> stupid x-post to RAT defeated.
>>
>> As usual, when you have absolutely nothing of value to contribute,
>> you go right ahead and inject your vulgar, insipid banalities anyway.
>
>Thank you for that. I know I'm certainly not alone here in my opinion of
>Meat Head.
Hell, it's all the life that meaty has...
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Battery charger part
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8a9fedf5d5210b0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 5:08 am
From: "Wild_Bill"
As mentioned, the 12V 12A part is a circuit breaker, a self-resetting type
which opens when heat from high current causes it to open, then closes again
when it cools. The opening action will repeat if the current draw/load is
excessive.
The plate assembly has 3 connections, not 2. A (black?) wire lead is
connected directly to the plate.
The plate is a heatsink for the 2 red diodes. The red diodes are silicon
types with terminals/contacts on each side/end. Two diode terminals contact
the plate, and the other terminals contact the metal holders that the other
2 wire leads are connected to (green & green?).
The diodes need to be in their original specific orientations for the
correct output of the charger.
Mark the diodes before removal, or make sure of their orientation before
removal, as the anode and cathode may not be marked. The part number or
other printing around the body may be the only indication of the diode
polarity. With the printing viewed right-side-up, the top contacts should be
the same terminals.. A or C.
Or, there may be a diode symbol printed to indicate A and C.
Or use an ohmeter to determine polarity of the diodes.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"LSMFT" <boleyn7@aol.com> wrote in message
news:CLqio.26598$EV4.25177@newsfe16.iad...
> Can somebody tell me what this part is?
> It's a plate with 2 contacts. 2 12vac outputs from the transformer are
> connected to the contacts. The output is the positive charging lead.
> The other output of the transformer goes through what looks like a 12v 12a
> diode though I'm not sure if it is a diode. Then goes through the meter to
> the negative charging lead.
> It's an old charger, puts out 13.5vdc on the charger, tapers down to zero
> when the battery is charged. Tough charger, dropped it a couple times on
> the concrete floor. Unknown maker.
>
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimp1g/2 Diode
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimp6p/2 Plate
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimp83/2 Transformer
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimp9h/2 Plate contact
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimpah/2 Meter connection
> http://tinypic.com/m/bimpeb/2 Charger
>
>
>
> --
> LSMFT
>
> I look outside this morning and everything was in 3D!
==============================================================================
TOPIC: D&G jeans made in china (http://www.cntrade09.com )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d3a32e038a320e0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 5:37 am
From: xiang chen
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pioneer 100 disc CD player problems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5263ce04af75aa85?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:28 am
From: Chuck
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 13:01:09 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
<captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote:
>This unit was given to me with the complaint that it would
>intermittently "skip". I did confirm this to be so and I subsequently
>slightly increased the setting on the laser pot. The unit seemed to be
>OK after that and I put it away for several months. I now have a use
>for it and got it out of the closet and loaded it up with CD's only to
>find that its doing the same thing once again. The strange thing is
>that some CD's seem to be affected worse than others. In fact some
>CD's will play fine and others have skips many times in the same
>places on the same particular disc when repeated plays are attempted,
>while other discs are not recognized at all. There are random skips at
>times on some CD's as well. I know that some CDR's could be a problem
>with some older machines and so we are not attempting to play any of
>those. I was hoping to note the particular CD, track, and time into
>the recording and if there was failure repeatability, use that to
>determine if my adjustments solve the problem but I don't know if this
>method would work or not. Does anyone have any opinions on that? Could
>some sections of a CD be harder for what I'm assuming to be a weak
>laser to "see" than others? Can someone please explain this
>phenomenon to me? I'm going to try to tweak this thing again but I
>would just appreciate a better understanding of this. Thanks, Lenny
Spindle motors on Pioneers also cause skipping. Check the RF output
with a scope to see if the out put is at the right level and the "eye"
looks sharp. If the level is correct and eye is sharp, I'd lean
toward the motor being faulty. Chuck
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:45 am
From: Meat Plow
On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 11:28:06 -0500, Chuck wrote:
> Spindle motors on Pioneers also cause skipping. Check the RF output
> with a scope to see if the out put is at the right level and the "eye"
> looks sharp. If the level is correct and eye is sharp, I'd lean toward
> the motor being faulty. Chuck
Funny, I feel exactly opposite. I've replaced far more Sankyo, Sanyo,
Toshiba, Canon micro motors in warranty repair than Pioneer. Maybe it was
just the stuff I was working on but Pioneer was a covered item.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
==============================================================================
TOPIC: LA4112 amp ic datasheet?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb7abfb5f2768322?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:41 am
From: b
On 20 Aug, 01:12, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 15:53:52 -0700 (PDT), b
> <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >...any ideas on where to get a good quality pdf of this sanyo la4112
>
> Here is an NTE equivalent:http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1400to1499/pdf/nte1463.pdf
Many thanks. Hopefully I will get one this month - will update as to
how easy that turns out to be!
B.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Monitor screen dark but LED stays green.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3e1f398f7842702?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:44 am
From: Chuck
On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 19:26:47 +0530, "Pimpom" <Pimpom@invalid.invalid>
wrote:
>My 7-year old CRT monitor has developed an intermittent fault.
>Sometimes the screen goes black but the power LED remains green
>(doesn't turn amber). A sharp rap often restores the display.
>When it decides to act up, the LED stays green even when it's
>turned on for several minutes while disconnected from the
>computer.
>
>I did a lot of repair work on a wide range of electronic products
>up to the early nineties, but I'm quite rusty now. I've opened up
>the monitor but can't see anything obvious in the way of a dry
>solder or loose connector. The tube heater glows all the time.
>The signal cable goes first to the tube base PCB and connections
>to the main PCB are with two flat cables.
>
>Which signal line does a computer monitor use to detect the
>presence of a signal? Where do you think I should start looking?
>Thanks in advance for any input.
>
I would check for solder breaks at the horizontal drive transformer,
the horizonta drive transistor, the horizontal output transistor, the
yoke socket and the H.O. transformer. Chuck
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Philips CDR770 CD-R standalone recorder problems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/30fe4ae7694fbb40?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 9:51 am
From: b
Visiting relatives and their CDR 770 (1999 vintage) has the following
problem. After being powered up for only a few minutes, it locks up
and no buttons operate. Totally frozen, and a hard reset is needed -
then a few moments after, it happens again. This happens if a disc is
being played, or the unit is on and idle.
I suspect something is confusing the uPc, possibly bad filter caps in
the PSU, but I do not have the tools and test stuff here, so just
posted to see if anybody has seen this fault and could say if it is
worth my while taking it away to try and fix....
regards, B.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: PHILIPS CDR-770 cd recorder problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6404cc8304b16a7d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 10:08 am
From: b
Visiting relatives and their CDR 770 (1999 vintage) has the following
problem. After being powered up for only a few minutes, it locks up
and no buttons operate. Totally frozen, and a hard reset is needed -
then a few moments after, it happens again. This happens if a disc is
being played or the unit is on and idle.
I suspect something is confusing the uPc, possibly bad filter caps on
the PSU, but I do not have the tools and test stuff here, so just
posted to see if anybody has seen this fault and could say if it is
worth my while taking it away to try and fix....
regards, B.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: American 16 Old College Girls Dating Videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2ee1baa3be59bb3e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 11:10 am
From: paypal cash
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cable box is making a ticking noise
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be39a9de968f64c0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 4:15 pm
From: mike@nowhere.nope
Have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3200 cable box that yesterday
started making a ticking noise when it's on. The ticking noise is
coming from the box itself, not the TV speakers. If I remove the
coaxial cable that's coming from outside the noise goes away, screw
the cable back in the noise comes back. No problem with the TV
picture or sound. I presume it's a component inside the box that's
dying, and when it does picture and sound will die as well. Anyone
have any ideas what could be causing this?
And no, I don't think the box is about to explode. At least I hope
it's not. :)
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 7:01 pm
From: John Robertson
mike@nowhere.nope wrote:
> Have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3200 cable box that yesterday
> started making a ticking noise when it's on. The ticking noise is
> coming from the box itself, not the TV speakers. If I remove the
> coaxial cable that's coming from outside the noise goes away, screw
> the cable back in the noise comes back. No problem with the TV
> picture or sound. I presume it's a component inside the box that's
> dying, and when it does picture and sound will die as well. Anyone
> have any ideas what could be causing this?
>
> And no, I don't think the box is about to explode. At least I hope
> it's not. :)
Well, its either very bad news (boom!) or more likely the sign of a
failing capacitor on your switching supply.
If you have a capacitor checker I'd pull it out and check all the caps
before it fails.
The Blue ESR cap kit is a good start...
John :-#)#
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== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 7:09 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia
On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:15:46 -0400, mike@nowhere.nope wrote:
> Have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3200 cable box that yesterday
> started making a ticking noise when it's on. The ticking noise is
> coming from the box itself, not the TV speakers. If I remove the
> coaxial cable that's coming from outside the noise goes away, screw
> the cable back in the noise comes back. No problem with the TV
> picture or sound. I presume it's a component inside the box that's
> dying, and when it does picture and sound will die as well. Anyone
> have any ideas what could be causing this?
>
> And no, I don't think the box is about to explode. At least I hope
> it's not. :)
With over-the-air antennas and coax feeds, one can experience the effect
of high static buildup arcing from the center conductor to a nearby
ground -- probably right at the back of the coax connector on the
chassis. tick - tick - tick - tick - tick ....
I would not expect that to happen with a cable lash-up. But, when
'things' are not working as expected, they are - well, ummmm - not
working as expected.
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: PHILIPS VR 675 help wanted ( vhs vcr )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/78705ff942d43a2f?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 5:08 pm
From: "Mark Zacharias"
"nitro2" <nitro2-remove-this-@scarlet.be> wrote in message
news:4bae1ab1$0$395$5f6aeac3@news.scarlet.nl...
>a little plastic lever has been found on the bottom of the unit .
>
> it is not broken0ff of something but maybe came loose when holding the
> unit vertical whilst cleaning the cabinet.
>
> since it is white with the famous pink grease marks i assume it is from
> the drive itself , but cannot find the place where it should
> go.......................
>
>
>
> please help
>
>
>
> nitro2
>
>
Looks to me as if it may have broke off the loading basket.
Mark Z.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 7:56 pm
From: Franc Zabkar
On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:08:07 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
<mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>"nitro2" <nitro2-remove-this-@scarlet.be> wrote in message
>news:4bae1ab1$0$395$5f6aeac3@news.scarlet.nl...
>>a little plastic lever has been found on the bottom of the unit .
There is a service manual here:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/19136/Philips_VR171,VR175,VR276,VR277,VR475,VR476,VR477,VR675,VR676,SB100,SB105,SB205,SB405,SB505,SB605,SB705,DV10.html
- Franc Zabkar
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