sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PHILIPS VR 675 help wanted ( vhs vcr )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/78705ff942d43a2f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 13 2010 7:56 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:08:07 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
<mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>"nitro2" <nitro2-remove-this-@scarlet.be> wrote in message
>news:4bae1ab1$0$395$5f6aeac3@news.scarlet.nl...
>>a little plastic lever has been found on the bottom of the unit .

There is a service manual here:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/19136/Philips_VR171,VR175,VR276,VR277,VR475,VR476,VR477,VR675,VR676,SB100,SB105,SB205,SB405,SB505,SB605,SB705,DV10.html

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/39847/Philips_Philips%20VCR%20service%20manual%20Deck:%20Turbo%20Drive,%20Queen%20volume%20Covers:%20VR171,%20VR175,%20VR276,%20VR277,%20VR475.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Of volcanoes and caldera
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/394af080be902462?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 1:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Continuing the metaphor. 2 yearold China-made Peavey i8B Plus mixer amp. No
reference to RoHS or PbF as USA company but volcanoes with loads of
"caldera" in the making (part formed ring cracks in solder points) . 2 forms
of intermittent distortion. Resoldering the usual suspects cured the crackle
but not the other metalic triangling and tending to half-complementary
waveform diistortion. Could not induce this one however much bashing with
biro barrel. Eventually with some long-nose pliers tugging, heating and
freezing and vibrating with nylon bolt in an engraver tool, the fault
emerged long enough to take some erroneous DC and scoping to determine which
1/4 (1/2 of one ch) where lay the problem and but no closer in than that.
Redid all solder points in that 1/4 and ps and not returned since but will
it come bouncing back ?then there is the other channel for new failings

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cable box is making a ticking noise
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be39a9de968f64c0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 3:54 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:15:46 -0400, mike wrote:

> Have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3200 cable box that yesterday started
> making a ticking noise when it's on. The ticking noise is coming from
> the box itself, not the TV speakers. If I remove the coaxial cable
> that's coming from outside the noise goes away, screw the cable back in
> the noise comes back. No problem with the TV picture or sound. I
> presume it's a component inside the box that's dying, and when it does
> picture and sound will die as well. Anyone have any ideas what could be
> causing this?
>
> And no, I don't think the box is about to explode. At least I hope it's
> not. :)

Could be static bleeding off from the center conductor of the connector.
They do build in protection for this. Other than that it's anyone's
guess. If you rent the box from a cable company ask them for a
replacement. If a replacement still makes noise, the cable company needs
to know about the problem.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 12:09 am
From: "N_Cook"

<mike@nowhere.nope> wrote in message
news:1fbt865l06l4fiij5vo4hghv4uo85gdpps@4ax.com...
> Have a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3200 cable box that yesterday
> started making a ticking noise when it's on. The ticking noise is
> coming from the box itself, not the TV speakers. If I remove the
> coaxial cable that's coming from outside the noise goes away, screw
> the cable back in the noise comes back. No problem with the TV
> picture or sound. I presume it's a component inside the box that's
> dying, and when it does picture and sound will die as well. Anyone
> have any ideas what could be causing this?
>
> And no, I don't think the box is about to explode. At least I hope
> it's not. :)

Is there a small relay inside ?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Crate BV150H amp , safety issue
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d15cc0bcb8c88cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 4:15 am
From: "N_Cook"

Strangely both sw marked Arcolectric , England and 110 lamp, generally only
building site kit would use this in England. Mains one dicoloured enough so
impossible to read colour bands measured 47K so both set for 110V presumably
. Replacement ones have plenty of space to change the dropper, 1 150K as
original for 240V land , and the HT standby 150K dropper replaced with
560K//560K

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Warwick Amp tech info ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3b86b168d4f6b75?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

unusual torroid inrush limiter on these - 150R cold , dropping less than
0.1v of mains in use

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PHILIPS CDR-770 cd recorder problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6404cc8304b16a7d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:13 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> I suspect something is confusing the uPc, possibly bad filter caps on
> the PSU, but I do not have the tools and test stuff here, so just
> posted to see if anybody has seen this fault and could say if it is
> worth my while taking it away to try and fix....

It hasn't died yet and new caps should be pretty cheap, so I'd say
"shotgun it and see". What does it look like inside?

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pioneer 100 disc CD player problems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5263ce04af75aa85?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:17 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Funny, I feel exactly opposite. I've replaced far more Sankyo, Sanyo,
> Toshiba, Canon micro motors in warranty repair than Pioneer. Maybe it was
> just the stuff I was working on but Pioneer was a covered item.

Interesting. All of my Pioneer disc changers (except one, a RadioShack
branded unit) have developed faulty spindle motors. One has a motor
with a dead spot, all of the others seemed to be the result of crud
build up inside that would partially short the motor.

They're all of various vintages, the oldest at 1990 and the newest
from 1999.

William

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:17 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

They're all of various vintages, the oldest at 1990 and the newest
from 1999.

William

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:27 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 14 Sep 2010 08:17:30 -0700, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> Funny, I feel exactly opposite. I've replaced far more Sankyo, Sanyo,
>> Toshiba, Canon micro motors in warranty repair than Pioneer. Maybe it
>> was just the stuff I was working on but Pioneer was a covered item.
>
> Interesting. All of my Pioneer disc changers (except one, a RadioShack
> branded unit) have developed faulty spindle motors. One has a motor with
> a dead spot, all of the others seemed to be the result of crud build up
> inside that would partially short the motor.

Can't fault the motor for failing due to crud unless the crud was from
the motor itself.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 10:13 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William R. Walsh" <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:56f55a81-4e91-46af-b3de-f2074e7db9e2@j5g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
> Hi!
>
>> Funny, I feel exactly opposite. I've replaced far more Sankyo, Sanyo,
>> Toshiba, Canon micro motors in warranty repair than Pioneer. Maybe it was
>> just the stuff I was working on but Pioneer was a covered item.
>
> Interesting. All of my Pioneer disc changers (except one, a RadioShack
> branded unit) have developed faulty spindle motors. One has a motor
> with a dead spot, all of the others seemed to be the result of crud
> build up inside that would partially short the motor.
>
> They're all of various vintages, the oldest at 1990 and the newest
> from 1999.
>
> William

Spindle motors were a common problem on most of the multiplayers that
Pioneer produced, and the lasers were extremely reliable. However, as I
recall, the 100 disc player uses a later deck assembly, and I have had a few
of those develop faulty lasers

Arfa

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 10:37 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Can't fault the motor for failing due to crud unless the crud was
> from the motor itself.

I can't think of anywhere else the crud would have come from...my
house isn't immaculate but it's not too dirty either. And all of these
players live in different environments--one is even in a different
building entirely.

The six disc player (oldest of the bunch) was purchased in 2001 with
the problem already evident, so you can't blame my housekeeping for
that! :-)

William

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 4:12 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

"William R. Walsh" <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> writes:

> Hi!
>
> > Can't fault the motor for failing due to crud unless the crud was
> > from the motor itself.
>
> I can't think of anywhere else the crud would have come from...my
> house isn't immaculate but it's not too dirty either. And all of these
> players live in different environments--one is even in a different
> building entirely.
>
> The six disc player (oldest of the bunch) was purchased in 2001 with
> the problem already evident, so you can't blame my housekeeping for
> that! :-)

The problem is the drive voltage/current....

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8a5a8efda15ff02?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCA VCR VR651HF Loading Motor Source
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bb7ed9b3e718935b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 11:52 am
From: Cydrome Leader

Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:20:13 +1000, Franc Zabkar
> <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:35:13 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net put finger
>>to keyboard and composed:
>>
>>> RCA VCR model VR651HF
>>>
>>> I am looking for a source to order a loading motor (front loader).
>>
>>> Here are numbers on the motor:
>>>
>>> MDH2B
>>> 62YK1418A
>>
>>According to this post ...
>>
>>http://www.fixya.com/support/t3512692-r_ni_think_loading_motor_bad_in
>>
>>... the loading motor in a Toshiba W-512 VCR bears the numbers, MDH2B
>>and 62YK1X05A. I suspect the latter is a serial number or batch code.
>>
>>If so, then a loading motor is available from Sears for US$3.19:
>>http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Toshiba-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-W-512/1100/0334000/50019744/00001?componentDescription=CABINET%20PARTS&brandDescription=TOSHIBA&searchTerm=
>
> FWIW, Sears have parts for the RCA VR651HF:
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Rca-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-VR651HF/1262/0334000/50020562/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
>
> However, the RCA loading motor is no longer available, whereas the
> motor for the W-512 is in stock.
>
> It may be worth comparing the parts lists, though. They look very
> similar.
>
> - Franc Zabkar

I've never heard of this site- but it looks really really handy.

Here in Chicago, the days are long over of being able to just travel a few
miles to get parts like this, or to be able to order them from one of a
dozen places in the area.

I'm not even sure where I'd get a VCR belt kit that's fresh these days to
be honest.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 12:16 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Fine idea, and was my next tactic. As you say, what have I got
> to lose?
> It'll be interesting to see what kind of response I'll get. I've had
> good luck with this approach in the past.

It will be interesting. Please do post back with their response.

Looking at the unit, I wondered if perhaps the cabinet was snapped
together internally at assembly time. I saw what to me looked like a
seam line, but the photos weren't really high resolution enough to
tell.

If that's true, it may mean that opening the unit will mar the finish
or break some/all of the things holding it together.

William

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 3:03 pm
From: "Bill Graham"

"William R. Walsh" <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:179805b4-112a-4f97-80fd-eaaab9858a24@i17g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
> Hi!
>
>> Fine idea, and was my next tactic. As you say, what have I got
>> to lose?
>> It'll be interesting to see what kind of response I'll get. I've had
>> good luck with this approach in the past.
>
> It will be interesting. Please do post back with their response.
>
> Looking at the unit, I wondered if perhaps the cabinet was snapped
> together internally at assembly time. I saw what to me looked like a
> seam line, but the photos weren't really high resolution enough to
> tell.
>
> If that's true, it may mean that opening the unit will mar the finish
> or break some/all of the things holding it together.
>
> William

Try fitting a piece of paper through the crack to see if it really is a
separate piece of metal.....Reminds me of the wooden beams that "hold up" my
living room ceiling.....Until I was able to put a sheet of paper between the
wall and the end of the beam.....turns out that its the other way
around....The ceiling is holding up the beams....:^)

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:36 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Sep 14, 5:03 pm, "Bill Graham" <w...@comcast.net> wrote:
> "William R. Walsh" <wm_wa...@hotmail.com> wrote in messagenews:179805b4-112a-4f97-80fd-eaaab9858a24@i17g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi!
>
> >> Fine idea, and was my next tactic. As you say, what have I got
> >> to lose?
> >> It'll be interesting to see what kind of response I'll get. I've had
> >> good luck with this approach in the past.
>
> > It will be interesting. Please do post back with their response.
>
> > Looking at the unit, I wondered if perhaps the cabinet was snapped
> > together internally at assembly time. I saw what to me looked like a
> > seam line, but the photos weren't really high resolution enough to
> > tell.
>
> > If that's true, it may mean that opening the unit will mar the finish
> > or break some/all of the things holding it together.
>
> > William
>
> Try fitting a piece of paper through the crack to see if it really is a
> separate piece of metal.....Reminds me of the wooden beams that "hold up" my
> living room ceiling.....Until I was able to put a sheet of paper between the
> wall and the end of the beam.....turns out that its the other way
> around....The ceiling is holding up the beams....:^)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Try dropping it if you don't hear from the manufacturer.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 8:58 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
> the damn amp open.
>
> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
> unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
> (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
> this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
> 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
> still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
> thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
> I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
>
> Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?

At least no one has suggested a Plsma Cutter! ;-)

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 14 2010 10:55 pm
From: thanatoid

David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:

> I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I
> can't get the damn amp open.
>
> It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
> tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a
> thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on
> top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
> http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp

You or someone you know has a digital camera. Take a photo of
the fucking thing, all sides, and post it to a binary group of
your choice or to some stupid site like photobucket or flickr.
It's will considerably improve your chances of opening the
thing.

I for one would like to see what the hell we are talking about.

"Similar to this one" does NOT cut it.

--
"Anytime I hear the word "culture", I reach for my iPad."
- 21st Century Humanoid

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 12:19 am
From: "N_Cook"

Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
> >
> > I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
> > the damn amp open.
> >
> > It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
> > unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
> > (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
> > this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
> > 6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
> > still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
> > thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
> > I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.
> >
> > Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?
>
>
> At least no one has suggested a Plsma Cutter! ;-)
>
>
> --
> Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
> enough left over to pay them.

A ring cutter yes, as a last resort, to make an inspection hole.
Somewhere there is unlikely to be active stuff and where a blanking plate
could be fixed over the hole and maybe another hole if the first reveals
nothing useful. Where an "endoscope" would be useful.

I'm assuming you've run a piece of rounded off dowel over any decals for
covered screwpoint recesses.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/88b66b898cbd9dac?hl=en
==============================================================================

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