sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* <free shipping paypal payment> (http://www.cntrade09.com/) wholesale men's
shoes - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07c7253c48acfc19?hl=en
* Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp - 11 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
* nike running made in china (http://www.brandtrade66.com ) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c769d27d19c65f2d?hl=en
* Opened laptop battery to replace lithium ion cells (Lenovo X61 tablet PC) --
Where do I get replacement battery cells? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b825f0a2f4a3f913?hl=en
* plasma tv PSU - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7040ce6f9b2a8504?hl=en
* Sony BM-23 portable dictator problem - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dfeddea9e88c8237?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: <free shipping paypal payment> (http://www.cntrade09.com/) wholesale
men's shoes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07c7253c48acfc19?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 12:22 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 1:48 am
From: Ron

On 16/09/2010 19:26, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> Ron wrote:
>>
>> On 16/09/2010 17:43, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>>> Ron wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 16/09/2010 16:15, thanatoid wrote:
>>>>> David Nebenzahl<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
>>>>> news:4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
>>>>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the first and only really helpful reply in this
>>>>>> whole damn thread.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Sure enough,
>>>>>> removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole unit
>>>>>> to slip rather easily out of the case (I used a heavy knife
>>>>>> blade betwixt the case and chassis to start it).
>>>>>
>>>>> WHAT? You did NOT do that when you removed all the screws? I
>>>>> have not been reading the thread carefully ever since you
>>>>> ignored my request for a photograph, but DUUH!
>>>>>
>>>>>> The amp appears to be fine; there's either a problem with
>>>>>> the XLR mike input jack, or with the mike cable we were
>>>>>> using. (Can't test because I have no XLR plugs.)
>>>>>
>>>>> WHERE are you (as in, forest, garage with NO tools, an audio
>>>>> shop run by Scientologists who believe the e-meter is the only
>>>>> piece of electronic test equipment anyone needs) ????????
>>>>>
>>>>> SIGH.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, I have learned over the last 4 decades that it's ALWAYS the
>>>>> cable (and if it's not, you **still** test any cables FIRST
>>>>> before you do ANYTHING, including attempting to open an audio
>>>>> box [when you should let your friends open your canned food for
>>>>> you] let alone flooding an NG with clueless posts for a week),
>>>>> and /had/ you posted like a person with a clue, I would have
>>>>> told you to try another cable - I know you don't have one, BUY
>>>>> one!
>>>>>
>>>>> !!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
>>>
>>>
>>> That depends on the quality of the materials and who made them.
>>
>>>
>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
>>
>> Professional quality cable, professional quality connectors and
>> professional quality workmanship.
>
>
> There is a wide variation in all three.
>
>

In your world maybe

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 2:03 am
From: Ron

On 17/09/2010 04:44, David Nebenzahl wrote:

>
> Eastern European and Balkan folk and popular (from a previous century)
> music. Mostly totally obsolete music that most people haven't heard and
> don't care about.
>
>
<Aside>

That's a kind of music which is becoming very popular here in the UK, my
own home town boasts three bands playing such music. I rather enjoy it
myself.
See http://www.myspace.com/thebalkanicsband

Ron(UK)

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 3:51 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Ron wrote:
>
> On 16/09/2010 19:26, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Ron wrote:
> >>
> >> On 16/09/2010 17:43, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Ron wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> On 16/09/2010 16:15, thanatoid wrote:
> >>>>> David Nebenzahl<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> >>>>> news:4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> <snip>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks for the first and only really helpful reply in this
> >>>>>> whole damn thread.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Sure enough,
> >>>>>> removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole unit
> >>>>>> to slip rather easily out of the case (I used a heavy knife
> >>>>>> blade betwixt the case and chassis to start it).
> >>>>>
> >>>>> WHAT? You did NOT do that when you removed all the screws? I
> >>>>> have not been reading the thread carefully ever since you
> >>>>> ignored my request for a photograph, but DUUH!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The amp appears to be fine; there's either a problem with
> >>>>>> the XLR mike input jack, or with the mike cable we were
> >>>>>> using. (Can't test because I have no XLR plugs.)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> WHERE are you (as in, forest, garage with NO tools, an audio
> >>>>> shop run by Scientologists who believe the e-meter is the only
> >>>>> piece of electronic test equipment anyone needs) ????????
> >>>>>
> >>>>> SIGH.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> BTW, I have learned over the last 4 decades that it's ALWAYS the
> >>>>> cable (and if it's not, you **still** test any cables FIRST
> >>>>> before you do ANYTHING, including attempting to open an audio
> >>>>> box [when you should let your friends open your canned food for
> >>>>> you] let alone flooding an NG with clueless posts for a week),
> >>>>> and /had/ you posted like a person with a clue, I would have
> >>>>> told you to try another cable - I know you don't have one, BUY
> >>>>> one!
> >>>>>
> >>>>> !!!!!!
> >>>>>
> >>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> That depends on the quality of the materials and who made them.
> >>
> >>>
> >>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
> >>
> >> Professional quality cable, professional quality connectors and
> >> professional quality workmanship.
> >
> >
> > There is a wide variation in all three.
> >
> >
>
> In your world maybe.

If it makes you happy to think so. I've seen some real crap on the
market that was called 'professional quality'. BTW, I owned a
commercial sound business for about 15 years. I also saw equipment &
cabling that was 20 years old and still working fine. I see more and
more crap being made overseas that claim to be high quality or
professional quality that will be lucky to not be in a landfill in a
couple years.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 4:39 am
From: Ron

On 17/09/2010 11:51, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> Ron wrote:
>>
>> On 16/09/2010 19:26, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>>> Ron wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 16/09/2010 17:43, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ron wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 16/09/2010 16:15, thanatoid wrote:
>>>>>>> David Nebenzahl<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
>>>>>>> news:4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks for the first and only really helpful reply in this
>>>>>>>> whole damn thread.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Sure enough,
>>>>>>>> removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole unit
>>>>>>>> to slip rather easily out of the case (I used a heavy knife
>>>>>>>> blade betwixt the case and chassis to start it).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> WHAT? You did NOT do that when you removed all the screws? I
>>>>>>> have not been reading the thread carefully ever since you
>>>>>>> ignored my request for a photograph, but DUUH!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The amp appears to be fine; there's either a problem with
>>>>>>>> the XLR mike input jack, or with the mike cable we were
>>>>>>>> using. (Can't test because I have no XLR plugs.)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> WHERE are you (as in, forest, garage with NO tools, an audio
>>>>>>> shop run by Scientologists who believe the e-meter is the only
>>>>>>> piece of electronic test equipment anyone needs) ????????
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> SIGH.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BTW, I have learned over the last 4 decades that it's ALWAYS the
>>>>>>> cable (and if it's not, you **still** test any cables FIRST
>>>>>>> before you do ANYTHING, including attempting to open an audio
>>>>>>> box [when you should let your friends open your canned food for
>>>>>>> you] let alone flooding an NG with clueless posts for a week),
>>>>>>> and /had/ you posted like a person with a clue, I would have
>>>>>>> told you to try another cable - I know you don't have one, BUY
>>>>>>> one!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> !!!!!!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> That depends on the quality of the materials and who made them.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
>>>>
>>>> Professional quality cable, professional quality connectors and
>>>> professional quality workmanship.
>>>
>>>
>>> There is a wide variation in all three.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> In your world maybe.
>
>
> If it makes you happy to think so. I've seen some real crap on the
> market that was called 'professional quality'. BTW, I owned a
> commercial sound business for about 15 years. I also saw equipment&
> cabling that was 20 years old and still working fine. I see more and
> more crap being made overseas that claim to be high quality or
> professional quality that will be lucky to not be in a landfill in a
> couple years.
>
>

There you go then. You are confusing crap chinese, prepacked cables with
the words 'Professional' on the packet, for cables which are hand made
using the finest quality cable and connectors. There is very little 'on
the market' that is anywhere near professional quality. Most pro
companies either build their own cabling or have it made by companies
specialising in producing cabling for industry use. When your livelihood
depends on performance, you don't use 'Monster' cables!

In my forty some years experience of working in professional audio, I
have found that it's very rare for a properly made cable to fail without
outside intervention.

Ron(UK)

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:10 am
From: "A. Baum" <50kiloton@net.not>

On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:30:00 +0000, thanatoid wrote:

>> Look, you little fuck
>
> Is that the BEST you can do? C'mon! Work with me here!

Yep that's the best that the Nebenzahl troll-bot imbecile can do. What
did you expect from someone who let a simple 1/4 jack nut defeat him for
days LMAO!

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:12 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:39:56 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

> On 9/16/2010 6:57 AM Arny Krueger spake thus:
>
>> "Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:prestwhich-8F29A8.22355915092010@news.eternal-september.org
>>
>>> In article <4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>, David
>>> Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Sure enough, removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole
>>>> unit to slip rather easily out of the case
>>>
>>> Sheesh. You "shoulda" known enough to do that, at least. Good grief.
>>
>> I feel stupid for not suggesting removing the nuts on the phone jacks.
>> I've seen this done sooooo many times.
>
> Oh, so I guess that means I'm *not* a total retard, eh? Thanks for that.

To those not willing to kiss ass, yes you still are a total retard :)

What a stupid fuck..

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 8:11 am
From: thanatoid

David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
news:4c92e3e0$0$2393$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:

<snip>

>> I used to sing (using the term loosely) and play guitar
>> (etc.) in bands, so I have a ton of XLR (and other)
>> connectors and cables, etc. I understand not everyone has
>> such items on site.
>
> Good. Sound reinforcement was never my responsibility even
> when I was in this band.

OK.

>>> This one just landed in my lap. I used to be in a
>>> band, the leader of which just recently died, and when we
>>> tried to use this amp at a gig, it failed.
>>
>> It's not a bad idea to test other people's
>> instruments/equipment before using them, let alone WHEN
>> DOING A GIG.
>
> The amp was not essential to the gig; we just wanted to use
> it to make announcements during the performance, as it was
> also a memorial to the founder of the band who had just
> died a week before. Since we were playing in a relatively
> small room, we make do without.

OK. Still, next time, test something before you try to use it.

>> And there were NO other cables on the stage at the time,
>> huh?
>
> Nope. We're an acoustic band, generally play without any
> sound reinforcement at all.

OK. I sort of thought this may be the case. I suppose when you
played a larger venue, you would just use their PA system so did
not need to know anything about sound reinforcement at all.

>>> I offered to diagnose it and determine what was wrong
>>> with it.
>>
>> Hmm. So you ALSO used to be in a band, and you don't have
>> a single XLR cable in the house?
>
> Nope. You see a problem with that?

Slight. IMO, it is always good to know /a little/ about things
which, however occasionally, enter you field of vision.

>> Hmm. What kind of band?
>
> Eastern European and Balkan folk and popular (from a
> previous century) music. Mostly totally obsolete music that
> most people haven't heard and don't care about.

Don't assume anything. I like medieval folk music as much as I
like The Sex Pistols /and/ The Carpenters. I do NOT care for
acoustic-guitar-based "folk songs" played by Californians, but a
lot of European folk music, Irish especially, is really cool.
/And/ Eastern-Eur.

--
"Anytime I hear the word "culture", I reach for my iPad."
- 21st Century Humanoid

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 8:14 am
From: thanatoid

"A. Baum" <50kiloton@net.not> wrote in
news:pan.2010.09.17.12.10.43@50kilotons.net.not:

> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:30:00 +0000, thanatoid wrote:
>
>>> Look, you little fuck
>>
>> Is that the BEST you can do? C'mon! Work with me here!
>
> Yep that's the best that the Nebenzahl troll-bot imbecile
> can do. What did you expect from someone who let a simple
> 1/4 jack nut defeat him for days LMAO!

You did make me laugh, but go easy on the guy. He seems OK. Not
everyone knows everything, especially people who post for help
in groups like this.

--
"Anytime I hear the word "culture", I reach for my iPad."
- 21st Century Humanoid

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 8:48 am
From: "A. Baum" <50kiloton@net.not>

On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:14:07 +0000, thanatoid wrote:

> "A. Baum" <50kiloton@net.not> wrote in
> news:pan.2010.09.17.12.10.43@50kilotons.net.not:
>
>> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:30:00 +0000, thanatoid wrote:
>>
>>>> Look, you little fuck
>>>
>>> Is that the BEST you can do? C'mon! Work with me here!
>>
>> Yep that's the best that the Nebenzahl troll-bot imbecile can do. What
>> did you expect from someone who let a simple 1/4 jack nut defeat him
>> for days LMAO!
>
> You did make me laugh, but go easy on the guy. He seems OK. Not everyone
> knows everything, especially people who post for help in groups like
> this.

He posts his know-it-all shit in other groups yet can't figure out that
you really need to remove every last visible nut/screw/bolt/fastener
before giving up. Sorry but I find him an idiot and not just someone who
knows less than someone else.

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 10:14 am
From: David Nebenzahl

On 9/17/2010 8:11 AM thanatoid spake thus:

> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> news:4c92e3e0$0$2393$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
>
>>> And there were NO other cables on the stage at the time,
>>> huh?
>>
>> Nope. We're an acoustic band, generally play without any
>> sound reinforcement at all.
>
> OK. I sort of thought this may be the case. I suppose when you
> played a larger venue, you would just use their PA system so did
> not need to know anything about sound reinforcement at all.

Exactly. Which is the way we prefer it; we worry about our set lists and
the music. They get to worry about the sound system so that we don't
have to.

>>> Hmm. So you ALSO used to be in a band, and you don't have
>>> a single XLR cable in the house?
>>
>> Nope. You see a problem with that?
>
> Slight. IMO, it is always good to know /a little/ about things
> which, however occasionally, enter you field of vision.

Oh, I *know* all about XLR and other connectors. I just don't happen to
*have* any around, since I don't need them.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 11:47 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Ron wrote:
>
> On 17/09/2010 11:51, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Ron wrote:
> >>
> >> On 16/09/2010 19:26, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Ron wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> On 16/09/2010 17:43, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ron wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On 16/09/2010 16:15, thanatoid wrote:
> >>>>>>> David Nebenzahl<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
> >>>>>>> news:4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> <snip>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> Thanks for the first and only really helpful reply in this
> >>>>>>>> whole damn thread.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Sure enough,
> >>>>>>>> removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole unit
> >>>>>>>> to slip rather easily out of the case (I used a heavy knife
> >>>>>>>> blade betwixt the case and chassis to start it).
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> WHAT? You did NOT do that when you removed all the screws? I
> >>>>>>> have not been reading the thread carefully ever since you
> >>>>>>> ignored my request for a photograph, but DUUH!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> The amp appears to be fine; there's either a problem with
> >>>>>>>> the XLR mike input jack, or with the mike cable we were
> >>>>>>>> using. (Can't test because I have no XLR plugs.)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> WHERE are you (as in, forest, garage with NO tools, an audio
> >>>>>>> shop run by Scientologists who believe the e-meter is the only
> >>>>>>> piece of electronic test equipment anyone needs) ????????
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> SIGH.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> BTW, I have learned over the last 4 decades that it's ALWAYS the
> >>>>>>> cable (and if it's not, you **still** test any cables FIRST
> >>>>>>> before you do ANYTHING, including attempting to open an audio
> >>>>>>> box [when you should let your friends open your canned food for
> >>>>>>> you] let alone flooding an NG with clueless posts for a week),
> >>>>>>> and /had/ you posted like a person with a clue, I would have
> >>>>>>> told you to try another cable - I know you don't have one, BUY
> >>>>>>> one!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> !!!!!!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> That depends on the quality of the materials and who made them.
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
> >>>>
> >>>> Professional quality cable, professional quality connectors and
> >>>> professional quality workmanship.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> There is a wide variation in all three.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> In your world maybe.
> >
> >
> > If it makes you happy to think so. I've seen some real crap on the
> > market that was called 'professional quality'. BTW, I owned a
> > commercial sound business for about 15 years. I also saw equipment&
> > cabling that was 20 years old and still working fine. I see more and
> > more crap being made overseas that claim to be high quality or
> > professional quality that will be lucky to not be in a landfill in a
> > couple years.
> >
> >
>
> There you go then. You are confusing crap chinese, prepacked cables with
> the words 'Professional' on the packet, for cables which are hand made
> using the finest quality cable and connectors. There is very little 'on
> the market' that is anywhere near professional quality. Most pro
> companies either build their own cabling or have it made by companies
> specialising in producing cabling for industry use. When your livelihood
> depends on performance, you don't use 'Monster' cables!
>
> In my forty some years experience of working in professional audio, I
> have found that it's very rare for a properly made cable to fail without
> outside intervention.

I made all of my own cables. Some are still good, after 40 years.

I was a broadcast engineer at three TV stations and several radio
stations during that time. We NEVER bought cables. I preferred
Switchcraft connectors and Belden wire. I've had idiots drive over a
pair of mated Switchcraft XLR connectors on concrete. All it did was
scratch the finish.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: nike running made in china (http://www.brandtrade66.com )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c769d27d19c65f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 3:04 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Opened laptop battery to replace lithium ion cells (Lenovo X61 tablet
PC) -- Where do I get replacement battery cells?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b825f0a2f4a3f913?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 4:08 am
From: ransley

On Sep 16, 11:40 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:
> "JoeSchmoe" <nospamjoesch...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>
> news:i6ucvp$nri$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Have you ever opened up your laptop battery to replace the lithium ion
> > cells inside (if so, I could use the help as I'm stuck).
>
> > Here are the pictures of the operation on a Lenovo X61 tablet PC 8-cell
> > 4500 amp-hour battery kidney-transplant operation.
>
> > The outside of the IBM Lenovo X61 tablet PC battery pack has the part
> > numbers:
> > - FRU 42T4507
> > - ASM 42T5209
>
> > And the batteries themselves, seem to have numbers on them of:
> > - cylinders BCM 3A6 72653
> > - rectangles C 3 171353
>
> > Any idea where to obtain these lithium ion replacement batteries?
>
> Right off I am not familar with your bateries, although my guess(tm) is that
> you can find them on ebay or google if you search for lithium ion cells.
> Some come with tabs welded to them so you can solder them togeather eaisly
> and avoid destroying the battery via heat. If they are the right size and
> right chemestry they should work. The mAh rating will probably be higher on
> new batteries than the originals becuase of advancements in battery
> technology.
>
> Just be careful and dont get these things too hot while soldering. They have
> been known to burst into flames like a flare. I highly suggest you buy the
> tabbed verison.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ive made packs with tabs and the batteries were real hot when
soldering, the tab transfers heat and soldering is tricky. Mine were a
mess and would never fit back into a plastic case, freezing the cell
first in your deep freeze will help but I think he will fail for
several reasons.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 8:24 am
From: trader4@optonline.net

On Sep 17, 7:08 am, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Sep 16, 11:40 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "JoeSchmoe" <nospamjoesch...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>
> >news:i6ucvp$nri$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>
> > > Have you ever opened up your laptop battery to replace the lithium ion
> > > cells inside (if so, I could use the help as I'm stuck).
>
> > > Here are the pictures of the operation on a Lenovo X61 tablet PC 8-cell
> > > 4500 amp-hour battery kidney-transplant operation.
>
> > > The outside of the IBM Lenovo X61 tablet PC battery pack has the part
> > > numbers:
> > > - FRU 42T4507
> > > - ASM 42T5209
>
> > > And the batteries themselves, seem to have numbers on them of:
> > > - cylinders BCM 3A6 72653
> > > - rectangles C 3 171353
>
> > > Any idea where to obtain these lithium ion replacement batteries?
>
> > Right off I am not familar with your bateries, although my guess(tm) is that
> > you can find them on ebay or google if you search for lithium ion cells.
> > Some come with tabs welded to them so you can solder them togeather eaisly
> > and avoid destroying the battery via heat. If they are the right size and
> > right chemestry they should work. The mAh rating will probably be higher on
> > new batteries than the originals becuase of advancements in battery
> > technology.
>
> > Just be careful and dont get these things too hot while soldering. They have
> > been known to burst into flames like a flare. I highly suggest you buy the
> > tabbed verison.
>
> > Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Ive made packs with tabs and the batteries were real hot when
> soldering, the tab transfers heat and soldering is tricky. Mine were a
> mess and would never fit back into a plastic case, freezing the cell
> first in your deep freeze will help but I think he will fail for
> several reasons.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I just rebuilt a Nicad battery pack for my 20+ year old Milwaukee
cordless driver drill. I found the batteries on Ebay for $21, so
decided it was worth a try. I was successful and it's working
great. But I do agree there are some real issues. In particular, I
was very lucky that I got it to fit back into the battery housing.
In the factory, the metal tab conductors are spot welded directly to
the batteries and go from one to the next. When you DIY, you have to
solder them and then when you stack batteries on top of each other the
overall height increases. I got lucky because there was a rubber
cushion on the bottom which I removed to give me just a little more
room. Having been through it once, next time I could plan better to
possibly change the wire routing to avoid any solder bump issues.

It was also a bit tricky because the batteries had some charge in
them, so I had to be careful of what I was doing and not short them
out and have a meltdown.

In the case of a laptop battery pack I'd carefully weigh the cost of
trying and failing vs the cost of a new battery pack. Also, I found
places that will rebuild your battery pack for you for the cordless
drills. Similar may exist for the notebook battery. However, the
pricing for the rebuild was so close to the price of a new battery
pack that I would have gone with the new one.

I have an older Gateway notebook and after having bought one
replacement battery for it, I finally gave up. I realized that 99%
of the time, the way I'm using it, I have power available. I may take
it on a trip, but I don't use it on the plane, etc.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 12:27 pm
From: Joe Schmoe

On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:10:23 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:
> The biggest issue is when soldering is not to heat the battery.
> Get ones with tabs attached to them.

Once I find the cells, I'll definitely get the ones with soldered tabs as
I'm OK (but just OK) with soldering.

I found this web site "How to rebuild a Li-Ion battery pack", implemented
for Fujitsu - Siemens Lifebook S- Series FPCBP25 battery pack at
Electronics-Lab.com.

They found Panasonic lithium-ion replacement cells at
http://www.AllElectronics.com

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 12:44 pm
From: Joe Schmoe

On Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:46:39 -0600, WW wrote:
>> Here are the pictures of the operation on a Lenovo X61 tablet PC 8-cell
>> 4500 amp-hour battery kidney-transplant operation.
>> http://yfrog.com/4ylenovox61tlaptopbatteryjx
>>
>> The outside of the IBM Lenovo X61 tablet PC battery pack has the part
>> numbers:
>> - FRU 42T4507
>> - ASM 42T5209
>>
>> And the batteries themselves, seem to have numbers on them of: -
>> cylinders BCM 3A6 72653
>> - rectangles C 3 171353
>>
>> Any idea where to obtain these lithium ion replacement batteries?

> I just bought 2 lap top batteries, one for Dell and one for HP. Found
> them at Mobile Track Power. Good warranty and good prices. Why mess
> with what you have? WW

The question of why is a good one ... the answer is it's sheer cost! :)

The factory new battery is on the web for about $150.
I'm worried about the knockoffs which cost around $50 to $75.

BTW, I found some more references of successful rebuild DIYs which I'm
going through now as my biggest problem at the moment is finding the
replacement cells (later it will be fitting it all back together).

- HOW-TO: Rebuild your laptop battery by Engadget
http://www.engadget.com/2005/06/28/how-to-rebuild-your-laptop-battery/

- Rebuilding a Laptop Battery Oct 05, 2008 by Phil Hughes
http://www.linuxjournal.com/content/rebuilding-laptop-battery

- Refilling laptop batteries! February 17th, 2007 in Projects, Technology
http://www.summet.com/blog/2007/02/17/laptop-battery-refill/

- Can laptop batteries be repaired? by Isidor Buchmann Cadex Electronics,
December 2001
http://www.buchmann.ca/article21-page1.asp

- DIY Laptop Battery Rebuild: by Kevin O'Brien, NotebookReview.com on
1/30/2008
http://www.notebookreview.com/default.asp?newsID=4224

==============================================================================
TOPIC: plasma tv PSU
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7040ce6f9b2a8504?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 4:27 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote in message
news:aPudnVVoJuu0jw7RnZ2dnVY3goSdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
> <stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:fb454847-244f-458b-8b12-56b687ac311e@j5g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 16, 11:27 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:
>> Just to add to this..
>>
>> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts clicking
>> a
>> bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness changes on
>> the
>> TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to fail more on bright
>> pictures like cartoons.
>>
>> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed completely.
>> The standby light will change from red to green, but to no avail. The
>> 300V
>> doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage. Unplug it plug it
>> back
>> in and comes right up.
>>
>> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
>> recomended
>> by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly as expected.
>> It
>> takes a minute or two...
>>
>> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
>> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
>> warming
>> up.
>
> Replace the bad 'lytics and check again. Got an ESR meter? If not,
> it's time. Even the cheapy $50 MAT Electronics meter will do OK. SMPSs
> are particularly fussy about the caps. 'OK' rarely is OK. Secondary
> outputs have to be very good. Panasonic FM, Nichicon PW, HM, HN an HZ
> series caps are good. For SMT caps Panasonic FK and FP are good.
>
> G²
>
> I have a bob parker mk2 meter that I buit a few years back. I poked around
> with it and didnt find any bad caps, although I didnt remove them all from
> circuit. I have my suspiscions that it is bad caps though. There is a
> serivce buletion that says to check the 2 400V 250uF caps. They checked ok
> out of circuit.. I guess I will double check all the caps again.

If it's a Samsung 4264 or similar, look for bad solder at a couple of the
switcher transistors near the middle of the PSU. The eyelets were too small
and need to be scraped back and soldered.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:19 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:27:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:

> Just to add to this..
>
>
> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts
> clicking a bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness
> changes on the TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to fail
> more on bright pictures like cartoons.
>
> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed
> completely. The standby light will change from red to green, but to no
> avail. The 300V doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage.
> Unplug it plug it back in and comes right up.
>
> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
> recomended by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly
> as expected. It takes a minute or two...
>
> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
> warming up.

Shotgun the caps in the PSU if you want to go to the time and expense. Do
the ones in close proximity to hot items like heat sinks, diodes, >1watt
resistors first. Placement of caps in those locations will always give
trouble eventually and have much shorter lives. Wish I had the set, this
is just the kind of troubleshooting challenge I love.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:54 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.17.12.19.04@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:27:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:
>
>> Just to add to this..
>>
>>
>> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts
>> clicking a bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness
>> changes on the TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to fail
>> more on bright pictures like cartoons.
>>
>> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed
>> completely. The standby light will change from red to green, but to no
>> avail. The 300V doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage.
>> Unplug it plug it back in and comes right up.
>>
>> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
>> recomended by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly
>> as expected. It takes a minute or two...
>>
>> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
>> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
>> warming up.
>
> Shotgun the caps in the PSU if you want to go to the time and expense. Do
> the ones in close proximity to hot items like heat sinks, diodes, >1watt
> resistors first. Placement of caps in those locations will always give
> trouble eventually and have much shorter lives. Wish I had the set, this
> is just the kind of troubleshooting challenge I love.
>
>
>

Actually I enjoy it too, although this is my first switcher to fix.. I just
wish I had someone around to learn all the tricks from.
If I didn't enjoy it, I would just watch the tv as is becuase it functions
without issue most of the time or just buy a PSU thats been rebuilt for
$70.. I enjoy fixing anything that gives me a little challenge. This is the
first piece of equipment that I have ever cracked open which had a
sufficinetly detailed service manual.

Thanks for the tips.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:56 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4c9350b8$0$10327$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote in message
> news:aPudnVVoJuu0jw7RnZ2dnVY3goSdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>
>> <stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:fb454847-244f-458b-8b12-56b687ac311e@j5g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
>> On Sep 16, 11:27 pm, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:
>>> Just to add to this..
>>>
>>> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts
>>> clicking a
>>> bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness changes on
>>> the
>>> TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to fail more on bright
>>> pictures like cartoons.
>>>
>>> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed
>>> completely.
>>> The standby light will change from red to green, but to no avail. The
>>> 300V
>>> doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage. Unplug it plug it
>>> back
>>> in and comes right up.
>>>
>>> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
>>> recomended
>>> by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly as expected.
>>> It
>>> takes a minute or two...
>>>
>>> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
>>> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
>>> warming
>>> up.
>>
>> Replace the bad 'lytics and check again. Got an ESR meter? If not,
>> it's time. Even the cheapy $50 MAT Electronics meter will do OK. SMPSs
>> are particularly fussy about the caps. 'OK' rarely is OK. Secondary
>> outputs have to be very good. Panasonic FM, Nichicon PW, HM, HN an HZ
>> series caps are good. For SMT caps Panasonic FK and FP are good.
>>
>> G²
>>
>> I have a bob parker mk2 meter that I buit a few years back. I poked
>> around with it and didnt find any bad caps, although I didnt remove them
>> all from circuit. I have my suspiscions that it is bad caps though.
>> There is a serivce buletion that says to check the 2 400V 250uF caps.
>> They checked ok out of circuit.. I guess I will double check all the caps
>> again.
>
>
> If it's a Samsung 4264 or similar, look for bad solder at a couple of the
> switcher transistors near the middle of the PSU. The eyelets were too
> small and need to be scraped back and soldered.
>
> Mark Z.

Its actually a Hitachi W32-5000 similar to a P5000 with a MPF4700 PSU

Thanks for the advice!

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 7:05 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:54:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.09.17.12.19.04@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:27:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:
>>
>>> Just to add to this..
>>>
>>>
>>> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts
>>> clicking a bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness
>>> changes on the TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to
>>> fail more on bright pictures like cartoons.
>>>
>>> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed
>>> completely. The standby light will change from red to green, but to no
>>> avail. The 300V doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage.
>>> Unplug it plug it back in and comes right up.
>>>
>>> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
>>> recomended by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly
>>> as expected. It takes a minute or two...
>>>
>>> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
>>> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
>>> warming up.
>>
>> Shotgun the caps in the PSU if you want to go to the time and expense.
>> Do the ones in close proximity to hot items like heat sinks, diodes,
>> >1watt resistors first. Placement of caps in those locations will
>> always give trouble eventually and have much shorter lives. Wish I had
>> the set, this is just the kind of troubleshooting challenge I love.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Actually I enjoy it too, although this is my first switcher to fix.. I
> just wish I had someone around to learn all the tricks from. If I didn't
> enjoy it, I would just watch the tv as is becuase it functions without
> issue most of the time or just buy a PSU thats been rebuilt for $70.. I
> enjoy fixing anything that gives me a little challenge. This is the
> first piece of equipment that I have ever cracked open which had a
> sufficinetly detailed service manual.
>
>
> Thanks for the tips.

You're welcome. I've now repaired 5 >400 watt PC PSUs. Used to just toss
them and buy new. A couple friends who saved the failed units gave me
these for parts so I decided to have a go at repair. The last unit was a
650 watt PSU that failed after a year. Made a chirp with then AC was
plugged in. Grounding the green PSU 'on' wire did nothing. Since I have
no ESR meter I took a count of the caps and their values and drove to a
local electronics supply store. I also gave the PSU a good visual, tested
some obvious fuse-able type resistors and some discrete semiconductors.
Also looked for bad solder and signs of hot components, discoloration,
you name it...whatever my past experiences had taught me not only with
switchers but any high power electronic device. Finding no obvious signs
of damages I purchased some replacement caps found in areas I described
above. Cost me about $20 US. Took me less than an hour to replace and
reassemble. I ended up with a spare 650 watt PSU. My new quad core AMD
based PC with a 120 watt CPU needs a minimum 600 watt supply. My NVidia
graphics card has a separate 12 volt plug since the PCIe bus cannot
deliver enough current. Also have 3 SATA hard drives and two DVD burners.
Lots of power hungry devices I don't want to tax a smaller PSU on. Plus I
overclock the quad PSU to 4 ghz and that requires a high degree of
voltage regulation precision. So not any old PSU will deliver. I've had
no problems since I bought the hardware back in July.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 11:34 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.17.14.04.58@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 21:54:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:
>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2010.09.17.12.19.04@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>>> On Fri, 17 Sep 2010 15:27:49 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just to add to this..
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The tv works fine all PSU voltages within specs.. Then it starts
>>>> clicking a bit and then shuts down. Seems to click when the brightness
>>>> changes on the TV. (Dark picture to bright picture) and it seems to
>>>> fail more on bright pictures like cartoons.
>>>>
>>>> When it shuts down it wont restart until the power is removed
>>>> completely. The standby light will change from red to green, but to no
>>>> avail. The 300V doesn't come up in the PSU. No Vcc only STB voltage.
>>>> Unplug it plug it back in and comes right up.
>>>>
>>>> Poking around with freeze spray on some of the suspect components
>>>> recomended by the service manual it will shut down, but not instantly
>>>> as expected. It takes a minute or two...
>>>>
>>>> Im puzzled what the clicking soud inside this thing is. It is not the
>>>> relays and the intensity changes. It always clicks a few times while
>>>> warming up.
>>>
>>> Shotgun the caps in the PSU if you want to go to the time and expense.
>>> Do the ones in close proximity to hot items like heat sinks, diodes,
>>> >1watt resistors first. Placement of caps in those locations will
>>> always give trouble eventually and have much shorter lives. Wish I had
>>> the set, this is just the kind of troubleshooting challenge I love.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Actually I enjoy it too, although this is my first switcher to fix.. I
>> just wish I had someone around to learn all the tricks from. If I didn't
>> enjoy it, I would just watch the tv as is becuase it functions without
>> issue most of the time or just buy a PSU thats been rebuilt for $70.. I
>> enjoy fixing anything that gives me a little challenge. This is the
>> first piece of equipment that I have ever cracked open which had a
>> sufficinetly detailed service manual.
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the tips.
>
> You're welcome. I've now repaired 5 >400 watt PC PSUs. Used to just toss
> them and buy new. A couple friends who saved the failed units gave me
> these for parts so I decided to have a go at repair. The last unit was a
> 650 watt PSU that failed after a year. Made a chirp with then AC was
> plugged in. Grounding the green PSU 'on' wire did nothing. Since I have
> no ESR meter I took a count of the caps and their values and drove to a
> local electronics supply store. I also gave the PSU a good visual, tested
> some obvious fuse-able type resistors and some discrete semiconductors.
> Also looked for bad solder and signs of hot components, discoloration,
> you name it...whatever my past experiences had taught me not only with
> switchers but any high power electronic device. Finding no obvious signs
> of damages I purchased some replacement caps found in areas I described
> above. Cost me about $20 US. Took me less than an hour to replace and
> reassemble. I ended up with a spare 650 watt PSU. My new quad core AMD
> based PC with a 120 watt CPU needs a minimum 600 watt supply. My NVidia
> graphics card has a separate 12 volt plug since the PCIe bus cannot
> deliver enough current. Also have 3 SATA hard drives and two DVD burners.
> Lots of power hungry devices I don't want to tax a smaller PSU on. Plus I
> overclock the quad PSU to 4 ghz and that requires a high degree of
> voltage regulation precision. So not any old PSU will deliver. I've had
> no problems since I bought the hardware back in July.
>
>

On that note.. I just found a blackened cap which is close to a 2w resistor
which also appears to be black. New resistor and new cap time.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony BM-23 portable dictator problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dfeddea9e88c8237?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 5:55 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

This is almost certainly caused by a failed auto-shutoff circuit.

The supply hub (I think) has a switch that periodically opens and closes a
circuit. When this cycle stops, the transport is shut off.

This happened to a Sony dictation machine I owned 25 years ago. (Gack!) The
switch was a pair of wires touching either side of the hub. They were
"opened" and "closed" by a metal bar running through the hub. When one of
the wires got mispositioned, the switch no longer worked. I tore into the
machine and repositioned the wire. A Sony tech told me he was surprised
someone without the proper equipment had been able to do it.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Sep 17 2010 6:05 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I should have read the second post more closely, as it definitely puts a
different spin <ar, ar> on things.

My initial reaction is that there's no point to an interlock, as the
auto-shutoff switch automatically serves that function -- without a tape in
the compartment, the supply hub won't turn and the machine will shut off
after a few seconds.

I would start by figuring out why the lid won't close fully, and solve
/that/ problem first. It might automatically solve the other. A careful
visual inspection of the guts might be all you need.

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

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