sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 12 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fender Showman from 1963
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/04710c995b7d7066?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 12:22 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.22.16.47.04@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:39:27 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2010.09.22.15.17.33@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> >> On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:23:05 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> > Known history with this , from its purchase in Germany onwards,
> >> > including its original set of valves (not in there and used now, but
> >> > will test out of curiosity). What are the main potential
> >> > safety/reliability issues with an amp of this age? All the cotton
> >> > covered wiring looks good but is there some test/procedure more
> >> > convincing as to insualting value? Bakelite brittleness in the valve
> >> > bases? metallurgical failure of springiness of valve contacts?
> >> > Someone modified to 3 core mains cable and made an earth point, for
> >> > 240V land, at some point in its history. Numerous caps replaced in
> >> > 1991 and 1997 and some carbon R replaced with MO at some point. I've
> >> > not checked the main caps yet.
> >>
> >> No known safety issues other than mains wiring. These were pretty
> >> reliable amps. I own a 1970 Showman USA model. Someone tried to turn it
> >> into a 100 watt model by replacing the iron and adding two octals to
> >> the already blanked out chassis. I ripped all that stuff out and put
> >> new output iron in it. It's not worth much but it does sound sweet.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
> >
> >
> >
> > Closer look and the cotton covering to the wiring between the output
> > heaters is "perished", crumbling to dust, and needs replacing. Strange
> > having a load of Mullard, Brimar and Z&I Aero valves to test
>
> Since the heater wiring is twisted it would be a good idea to replace if
> it is that poor of a state. I don't recall ever seeing the LV wiring in
> any Fender of that era in that state and the state of all the wiring is
> what I usually inspect first on any P2P wired vintage amp.
>
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

The conductor size, under the insulation, is only 0.7mm presumably not
enough for the current plus localised heating. Will replace with silicon
sleeved wire with "Refrasil" glass sleeving over that , dulled down with
dark green permanent ink felt tip pen, gives a very convincing contemporary
look, and surprisingly does not wipe off the glass

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 2:53 am
From: Ron

On 23/09/2010 02:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Jeff Layman" <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:i7dh7q$uq6$1@news.albasani.net...
>> On 22/09/2010 17:39, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>>> Closer look and the cotton covering to the wiring between the output
>>> heaters
>>> is "perished", crumbling to dust, and needs replacing. Strange having
>>> a load
>>> of Mullard, Brimar and Z&I Aero valves to test
>>
>> Z&I Aero!!! I haven't heard that name for over 40 years. That was when
>> their shop in Tottenham Court Road was worth visiting, followed by a
>> stroll to Proops, and then onto Lisle Street. Are there any surplus
>> places worth visiting today?
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jeff
>
> I still have a Z&I Aero (Zaerix) glossy covered catalogue / data book in
> near pristine condition. It has data on lovely old things like VCR97
> 'scope tubes, and has all the prices in pounds, shillings and pence ! Oh
> those lovely old days of skiving off school for the day and jumping on
> the train to London to go to Tottenham Court Road and Lisle Street. Into
> Henry's Radio ... I bought my first 'hifi' amplifier in Proops. It's a
> Teleton SAQ-307. It's here in the computer room with me, and I'm looking
> at it right now. Still works as good as the day it was bought. Only
> about 8 watts per channel as I recall, but punched way above that
> weight. It drives my EMI 13 x 8 cabs with 7 x 5 mids and Eagle dome
> tweeters. The EMIs came from Henry's and the Eagles from Maplin I think,
> but might have been Tandy (Radio Shack). I also have the matching
> Teleton GT-203 tuner, and then the Nikko ND-790 cassette deck. Remember
> those ? All together, it was the classic "poor man's" hifi rig of the
> early 70s.
>
> I think most of the wonderful old junk shops have pretty much gone now,
> but I think that Anchor Supplies up in Nottingham is still going.
> Remember AH Supplies ? They used to advertise every month in Practically
> Witless magazine, and I bought a lot of ex WW2 radios like 19 sets and
> an R1392 and a Wavemeter D from them. I have a feeling that they might
> still be going in one form or another. I'm also pretty sure that
> Birketts over in Lincoln somewhere are still going too. Then there was
> John's Radio, and Bull Electrical. Happy days ... Blimey. I've just
> looked up John's Radio, and they are still going !
>
> Arfa

Teleton SAQ-307! yes I had one o them. Marvelous amplifier, didn't it
have some unusual feature for it's day, slider control or something?
I had mine in my shop driving a stack consiting of a 15" Gauss in a
home made Altec Voice of the Theatre copy, a 12" Gauss VotT copy and a
whopping great Vitavox multicell horn (courtesy of the recently closed
local ODEON). No electronic crossovers in those days!
Even tho it was only a few watts, it could visibly make the shop window
shake in time to the music (Dark Side of the Moon - Most impressive)

Ron(UK)

--
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We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
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== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:31 am
From: "N_Cook"

At least not best wiring practise, wires not looped thru tags (2 passes)
before soldering. Although original wiring , a 6L6 socket has been replaced
at some time. Did he swap around the wires and so the heater pinning is
different? . The original "push" pair have opposite polarity pinning for the
heaters of each but the "pull" pair, with the replaced socket, are same
"polarity". I'm inclined to replace the wiring with both pairs having
alternate polarity

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:33 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ron <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:xtmdnahND7U6vgbRnZ2dnUVZ8gednZ2d@bt.com...
> On 23/09/2010 02:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
> >
> >
> > "Jeff Layman" <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> > news:i7dh7q$uq6$1@news.albasani.net...
> >> On 22/09/2010 17:39, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >>> Closer look and the cotton covering to the wiring between the output
> >>> heaters
> >>> is "perished", crumbling to dust, and needs replacing. Strange having
> >>> a load
> >>> of Mullard, Brimar and Z&I Aero valves to test
> >>
> >> Z&I Aero!!! I haven't heard that name for over 40 years. That was when
> >> their shop in Tottenham Court Road was worth visiting, followed by a
> >> stroll to Proops, and then onto Lisle Street. Are there any surplus
> >> places worth visiting today?
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> Jeff
> >
> > I still have a Z&I Aero (Zaerix) glossy covered catalogue / data book in
> > near pristine condition. It has data on lovely old things like VCR97
> > 'scope tubes, and has all the prices in pounds, shillings and pence ! Oh
> > those lovely old days of skiving off school for the day and jumping on
> > the train to London to go to Tottenham Court Road and Lisle Street. Into
> > Henry's Radio ... I bought my first 'hifi' amplifier in Proops. It's a
> > Teleton SAQ-307. It's here in the computer room with me, and I'm looking
> > at it right now. Still works as good as the day it was bought. Only
> > about 8 watts per channel as I recall, but punched way above that
> > weight. It drives my EMI 13 x 8 cabs with 7 x 5 mids and Eagle dome
> > tweeters. The EMIs came from Henry's and the Eagles from Maplin I think,
> > but might have been Tandy (Radio Shack). I also have the matching
> > Teleton GT-203 tuner, and then the Nikko ND-790 cassette deck. Remember
> > those ? All together, it was the classic "poor man's" hifi rig of the
> > early 70s.
> >
> > I think most of the wonderful old junk shops have pretty much gone now,
> > but I think that Anchor Supplies up in Nottingham is still going.
> > Remember AH Supplies ? They used to advertise every month in Practically
> > Witless magazine, and I bought a lot of ex WW2 radios like 19 sets and
> > an R1392 and a Wavemeter D from them. I have a feeling that they might
> > still be going in one form or another. I'm also pretty sure that
> > Birketts over in Lincoln somewhere are still going too. Then there was
> > John's Radio, and Bull Electrical. Happy days ... Blimey. I've just
> > looked up John's Radio, and they are still going !
> >
> > Arfa
>
> Teleton SAQ-307! yes I had one o them. Marvelous amplifier, didn't it
> have some unusual feature for it's day, slider control or something?
> I had mine in my shop driving a stack consiting of a 15" Gauss in a
> home made Altec Voice of the Theatre copy, a 12" Gauss VotT copy and a
> whopping great Vitavox multicell horn (courtesy of the recently closed
> local ODEON). No electronic crossovers in those days!
> Even tho it was only a few watts, it could visibly make the shop window
> shake in time to the music (Dark Side of the Moon - Most impressive)
>
> Ron(UK)
>
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
> SPAMfighter has removed 2512 of my spam emails to date.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>
> The Professional version does not have this message

I had one of those from a local cinema, half the weight was the loose sand
fill between the cells

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 12:08 pm
From: Jeff Layman

On 23/09/2010 02:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Jeff Layman" <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:i7dh7q$uq6$1@news.albasani.net...
>> On 22/09/2010 17:39, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>>> Closer look and the cotton covering to the wiring between the output
>>> heaters
>>> is "perished", crumbling to dust, and needs replacing. Strange having
>>> a load
>>> of Mullard, Brimar and Z&I Aero valves to test
>>
>> Z&I Aero!!! I haven't heard that name for over 40 years. That was when
>> their shop in Tottenham Court Road was worth visiting, followed by a
>> stroll to Proops, and then onto Lisle Street. Are there any surplus
>> places worth visiting today?
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jeff
>
> I still have a Z&I Aero (Zaerix) glossy covered catalogue / data book in
> near pristine condition. It has data on lovely old things like VCR97
> 'scope tubes, and has all the prices in pounds, shillings and pence ! Oh
> those lovely old days of skiving off school for the day and jumping on
> the train to London to go to Tottenham Court Road and Lisle Street. Into
> Henry's Radio .... I bought my first 'hifi' amplifier in Proops. It's a
> Teleton SAQ-307. It's here in the computer room with me, and I'm looking
> at it right now. Still works as good as the day it was bought. Only
> about 8 watts per channel as I recall, but punched way above that
> weight. It drives my EMI 13 x 8 cabs with 7 x 5 mids and Eagle dome
> tweeters. The EMIs came from Henry's and the Eagles from Maplin I think,
> but might have been Tandy (Radio Shack). I also have the matching
> Teleton GT-203 tuner, and then the Nikko ND-790 cassette deck. Remember
> those ? All together, it was the classic "poor man's" hifi rig of the
> early 70s.
>
> I think most of the wonderful old junk shops have pretty much gone now,
> but I think that Anchor Supplies up in Nottingham is still going.
> Remember AH Supplies ? They used to advertise every month in Practically
> Witless magazine, and I bought a lot of ex WW2 radios like 19 sets and
> an R1392 and a Wavemeter D from them. I have a feeling that they might
> still be going in one form or another. I'm also pretty sure that
> Birketts over in Lincoln somewhere are still going too. Then there was
> John's Radio, and Bull Electrical. Happy days ... Blimey. I've just
> looked up John's Radio, and they are still going !

I used to visit GWM in Worthing till they closed down in 2003. But I
didn't know they had simply moved. Some interesting stuff here:
http://gwmradio.netfirms.com/stocklistuk.html.

With regard to Z&IAero, in the early 70s I worked at a company where the
electronics guy was Polish. Somehow the subject of Z&I came up. He
said that Z&I were a front for a communist spy group! I Suppose
anything is possible, but how they made much money out of pile of dusty
and dirty ex-WWII (and earlier!) crap I don't know I actually bought an
ancient Cossor 3339 from them. It didn't work and I never got it
working. No doubt every capacitor was suspect as they would have been
30 or 40 years old by then, and heaven knows where it had been stored.

Jeff

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:41 pm
From: Archon

On 9/22/2010 9:18 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Jeff Layman" <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
> news:i7dh7q$uq6$1@news.albasani.net...
>> On 22/09/2010 17:39, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>>> Closer look and the cotton covering to the wiring between the output
>>> heaters
>>> is "perished", crumbling to dust, and needs replacing. Strange having
>>> a load
>>> of Mullard, Brimar and Z&I Aero valves to test
>>
>> Z&I Aero!!! I haven't heard that name for over 40 years. That was when
>> their shop in Tottenham Court Road was worth visiting, followed by a
>> stroll to Proops, and then onto Lisle Street. Are there any surplus
>> places worth visiting today?
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jeff
>
> I still have a Z&I Aero (Zaerix) glossy covered catalogue / data book in
> near pristine condition. It has data on lovely old things like VCR97
> 'scope tubes, and has all the prices in pounds, shillings and pence ! Oh
> those lovely old days of skiving off school for the day and jumping on
> the train to London to go to Tottenham Court Road and Lisle Street. Into
> Henry's Radio ... I bought my first 'hifi' amplifier in Proops.
> snip
> Arfa

I'm surprised you didn't build the "Texan amplifier" sold by Henry's,

http://www.angelfire.com/sd/paulkemble/sound8h.html

I must have built 10 of those for me and my mates, then spent many happy
hours replacing the unprotected output transistors! They did sound good
cranked up (with a good heatsink)!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying SMD transistor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e028edf645085e23?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 1:07 am
From: Clyde

Hi, can anyone identify a transistor for me, this is from a LCD monitor
inverter board. The markings on the transistor are DJ R

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:34 am
From: "Sotiris Antoniou"

"Clyde" <mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pVDmo.5381$YS6.2643@newsfe27.ams2...
>
> Hi, can anyone identify a transistor for me, this is from a LCD monitor
> inverter board. The markings on the transistor are DJ R

Hello .
can you send us the LCD brand-model number.

Sotos.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 11:46 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:34:24 +0300, "Sotiris Antoniou"
<samant@ath.forthnet.gr> wrote:

>"Clyde" <mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:pVDmo.5381$YS6.2643@newsfe27.ams2...
>>
>> Hi, can anyone identify a transistor for me, this is from a LCD monitor
>> inverter board. The markings on the transistor are DJ R
>
>
>
>Hello .
>can you send us the LCD brand-model number.
>
>Sotos.
>
>
>
And a picture of the transistor or better yet, the package style, and
the location identifier would be a big help.

Now, because I'm smarter than average (Arfa Daily taught me well), the
information you seek might be here: http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/dj

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cassette tape component
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d09b6898cd0cae?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 1:18 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

<snip>

>
> There are 6 leaf switches on top of the tape slot. 5 of these look
> identical
> and have plastic covers, the other is shorter and is exposed (no plastic
> cover). This last one senses the head-plate being raised. It fires the
> solenoid when jumped. None of the other 5 seems to actuate anything with
> the
> manual test you described. I tested on both units.

You have to press a function button at the same time. Your finger is
'pretending' to be a tape ...

<snip>

Have you checked for voltage at the
>>"+" terminal of the motor when it should be running ? The motor should
>>have
>>4 terminals. "-" is common to chassis, "+" should have switched 12v on it,
>>and "A" and "B" are the speed control terminals
>
> I measure ~12v dc from the chassis to one of the contacts when I 'play'
> a tape.

If the ground to the motor is good, and 12v 'appears' on the "+" terminal of
the motor when a function button is pressed, then I'm pretty sure that on
those motors, they should run, regardless of what's going on on the "A" and
"B" speed control terminals. You could try disconnecting the motor ribbon,
and feeding an external 12v from a power supply directly to the motor, and
see what happens.

>
>>Just checked. The service manual for the 155 is the same as for the 255
>
> If it is available and doesn't cost a bundle, would appreciate a link
> to where I can find it.
>
> Thanks,
> P

Is the email address that your post was sent from - with the "DOT" changed
of course - valid ? If so, I'll send it to you. If you would prefer it to go
to a different address, mail me off-group at the address I used to send
this.

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 11:30 am
From: Puddin' Man

On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:18:47 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>You have to press a function button at the same time. Your finger is
>'pretending' to be a tape ...

Sorry ... my mind was elsewhere.

I have it now. It looks strange, all 5 switches *appear* to close
whenever a tape is inserted.

>Have you checked for voltage at the
>>>"+" terminal of the motor when it should be running ? The motor should
>>>have
>>>4 terminals. "-" is common to chassis, "+" should have switched 12v on it,
>>>and "A" and "B" are the speed control terminals
>>
>> I measure ~12v dc from the chassis to one of the contacts when I 'play'
>> a tape.
>
>If the ground to the motor is good, and 12v 'appears' on the "+" terminal of
>the motor when a function button is pressed, then I'm pretty sure that on
>those motors, they should run, regardless of what's going on on the "A" and
>"B" speed control terminals. You could try disconnecting the motor ribbon,
>and feeding an external 12v from a power supply directly to the motor, and
>see what happens.

I looked a bit for a handy-dandy live 12v supply that I could get my big,
clumsy alligator clip onto for a jump to the motor, and didn't find anything
suitable.

I suppose I could rig an old pc power supply, but ...

>>>Just checked. The service manual for the 155 is the same as for the 255
>>
>> If it is available and doesn't cost a bundle, would appreciate a link
>> to where I can find it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> P
>
>Is the email address that your post was sent from - with the "DOT" changed
>of course - valid ? If so, I'll send it to you. If you would prefer it to go
>to a different address, mail me off-group at the address I used to send
>this.

Yes, it is valid. Just substitute . for DOT and it should work OK.

Many Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: general question: mainboard caps
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 1:30 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Michael wrote:
>
> On Sep 22, 9:40 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Michael wrote:
> >
> > > What? There is still electronics manufacturing in the United States?
> >
> > Yes, just not $10 radios or $20 TVs.
> >
>
> Will wonders never cease... ok, I'm taking half of my wife's
> dishwashing sponge then...

Is it a real sponge, or just a fake plastic version? Spend the
couple bucks and by one treated for cleaning soldering iron tips.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 10:39 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 23:15:47 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote:

>Will wonders never cease... ok, I'm taking half of my wife's
>dishwashing sponge then...

Don't do that. It's probably a plastic immitation sponge. It will
melt or burn nicely, even with sufficient water. The real soldering
iron sponges are cellulose and cost about $1 online. You can find
cellulose sponges at the market if you read the label carefully.

The other problem is that the household sponges are too thick. After
a few minutes, the water will dribble back into the base of the
sponge, leaving the top of the sponge quite dry and easy to burn. Too
thin is also a problem as you don't want to submerge the soldering
iron tip into a puddle of water. I'm too lazy to walk downstairs and
measure the official Weller sponge thickness, but try to get it close.
For a holder, I find glass ashtrays to be perfect.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 10:40 am
From: Bob Villa

On Sep 21, 9:44 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
> >electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
> >still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
> >yet available.)
>
> My experience is that if you have the usual 8-10 identical capacitors
> on the motherboard, and one is visibly defective, then the others are
> highly likely to fail very soon. I replace *ALL* the caps of a
> specific type. In particular, the caps around the CPU tend to die,
> because of the heat and the high ripple current. Typically, I'll
> replace 10 to 15 caps.
>
> >Is desoldering these caps straightforward?
>
> It varies. Some boards are very easy to unsolder. Others have
> smaller holes for the leaded parts and are more difficult. A vacuum
> desoldering station is best. Use plenty of heat and some liquid flux
> so that you don't pull the plated thru hole out with the capacitor. If
> you see a copper colored ring around a capacitor lead, you've probably
> killed the board.
>
> >Any special precautions
> >re: multi-layered PCB traces?
>
> If you don't have a tip that will heat both leads at the same time, or
> don't have 3 arms so that you can use two soldering irons, all is not
> lost. I heat up one lead, and rock the capacitor in the opposite
> direction. After it moves a little, I heat the other lead, and rock
> it in the opposite direction. Don't use brute force or you'll rip out
> the plated through holes. Eventually, it comes out.
>
> One lead is usually grounded where the large copper area acts as an
> effective heat sink. This lead will be more difficult to unsolder
> than the hot lead (usually +). I use a big, wide (1/4"), hot (850C),
> chisel tip. Plenty of heat, and work fast. This will take some
> practice. Find an old PCB and practice a little before attacking the
> Intel motherboard.
>
> >Any special gotchas to keep in mind
> >when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>
> 105C Low-ESR. Watch the case dimensions and lead spacing. If it will
> fit, try to buy the next higher voltage rating. I'm partial to
> Panasonic but will use Rubycon. Digikey, Mouser, and eBay (in that
> order). I sometimes use polymer caps as replacements, when the
> motherboard is worth fixing and the customer doesn't care about the
> cost. Also, think about buying an ESR tester if you're going to make
> a habit of this.
>
> <http://www.badcaps.net>
> <http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_re...>
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
> <http://www.capacitorlab.com>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks to all for your expertise in de-soldering...there is a world of
experience here, and worth much.
I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is works for
some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KDS55A2000 optical block rebuild?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8f0d4ae3e0f464ae?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 2:29 am
From: stokesbr@cox.net

I have read there are rebuilt optical blocks available, rather than
shell out $1,000+ for a new one. Anyone here have any idea what is
involved with rebuilding them. I repair TV's as a hobby, been doing it
for several years now, so I assume I could do this. I should point out
what's wrong with the set. It doesn't have the green haze issue, but
my buddy (his TV) said he saw several small yellowish patches around
the screen, which really were visible with a solid background color,
such as grey. This morning he told me he doesn't see this now on the
TV, but in the event it is the block, I hate to see him have to trash
this three year old set. As always, thanks for any info or suggestions.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:54 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

<stokesbr@cox.net> wrote in message
news:c362e2a2-0f36-4223-bae1-5e7adca0aeea@m1g2000vbh.googlegroups.com...
>I have read there are rebuilt optical blocks available, rather than
> shell out $1,000+ for a new one. Anyone here have any idea what is
> involved with rebuilding them. I repair TV's as a hobby, been doing it
> for several years now, so I assume I could do this. I should point out
> what's wrong with the set. It doesn't have the green haze issue, but
> my buddy (his TV) said he saw several small yellowish patches around
> the screen, which really were visible with a solid background color,
> such as grey. This morning he told me he doesn't see this now on the
> TV, but in the event it is the block, I hate to see him have to trash
> this three year old set. As always, thanks for any info or suggestions.

There are still a few of these being covered by Sony as a sort of secret
recall.

Your friend needs to check with Sony customer service and see if his model
is covered.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCA VCR VR651HF Loading Motor Source
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/200b1d581bf214d5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:35 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi Franc,

I ordered the loading motor for that Toshiba VCR model you found.

Currently, it is on "back order". When I receive it, I will post an
update on the results (same or different motor).

John

On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:33:05 +1000, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

>On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:20:13 +1000, Franc Zabkar
><fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:35:13 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net put finger
>>to keyboard and composed:
>>
>>> RCA VCR model VR651HF
>>>
>>> I am looking for a source to order a loading motor (front loader).
>>
>>> Here are numbers on the motor:
>>>
>>> MDH2B
>>> 62YK1418A
>>
>>According to this post ...
>>
>>http://www.fixya.com/support/t3512692-r_ni_think_loading_motor_bad_in
>>
>>... the loading motor in a Toshiba W-512 VCR bears the numbers, MDH2B
>>and 62YK1X05A. I suspect the latter is a serial number or batch code.
>>
>>If so, then a loading motor is available from Sears for US$3.19:
>>http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Toshiba-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-W-512/1100/0334000/50019744/00001?componentDescription=CABINET%20PARTS&brandDescription=TOSHIBA&searchTerm=
>
>FWIW, Sears have parts for the RCA VR651HF:
>http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Rca-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-VR651HF/1262/0334000/50020562/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
>
>However, the RCA loading motor is no longer available, whereas the
>motor for the W-512 is in stock.
>
>It may be worth comparing the parts lists, though. They look very
>similar.
>
>- Franc Zabkar

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:55 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

<jaugustine@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:5mem96dhecpbbu1to9lcj2vac0q3srmktq@4ax.com...
> Hi Franc,
>
> I ordered the loading motor for that Toshiba VCR model you found.
>
> Currently, it is on "back order". When I receive it, I will post an
> update on the results (same or different motor).
>
> John
>
>
> On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:33:05 +1000, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 11 Sep 2010 21:20:13 +1000, Franc Zabkar
>><fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>>
>>>On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:35:13 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net put finger
>>>to keyboard and composed:
>>>
>>>> RCA VCR model VR651HF
>>>>
>>>> I am looking for a source to order a loading motor (front loader).
>>>
>>>> Here are numbers on the motor:
>>>>
>>>> MDH2B
>>>> 62YK1418A
>>>
>>>According to this post ...
>>>
>>>http://www.fixya.com/support/t3512692-r_ni_think_loading_motor_bad_in
>>>
>>>... the loading motor in a Toshiba W-512 VCR bears the numbers, MDH2B
>>>and 62YK1X05A. I suspect the latter is a serial number or batch code.
>>>
>>>If so, then a loading motor is available from Sears for US$3.19:
>>>http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Toshiba-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-W-512/1100/0334000/50019744/00001?componentDescription=CABINET%20PARTS&brandDescription=TOSHIBA&searchTerm=
>>
>>FWIW, Sears have parts for the RCA VR651HF:
>>http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Rca-Parts/Video-equipment-Parts/Model-VR651HF/1262/0334000/50020562/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
>>
>>However, the RCA loading motor is no longer available, whereas the
>>motor for the W-512 is in stock.
>>
>>It may be worth comparing the parts lists, though. They look very
>>similar.
>>
>>- Franc Zabkar
>

Bad news. When a part of this sort is on "back order" that may mean it will
never come.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Music Man Sixty Five
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6026a75cd412799?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 4:56 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:53:57 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.09.22.18.35.40@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>> On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 18:13:49 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>> Just had one of these lovely old amps across the bench, and was
>>> extremely surprised to see a plate voltage of 730 on the two 6CA7 /
>>> EL34 output pentodes.
>>
>> That's what they run em at. What did you need to know about them, I
>> used to own a 112 combo 65/35 watter. Probably very similar.
>>
>>
>>
> Nothing particularly. Their website has all the schematics for free
> download, and I fixed all the problems on this one. I was just
> interested to see if anyone had any stories about them - or the
> manufacturer in general - as it's not a brand commonly seen here.
>
> Arfa

I didn't care for the sound of my 112 combo. It was tolerable with some
external FX. Played a sand colored 130 watt head didn't care for it.
Company was founded incognito by Leo Fender who at the time had a 10 year
non-compete clause with CBS. The early amps were better, newer being
hybrid with tube output. Pedal Steel guitar players did like them
however. And they made a decent keyboard amp.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 5:19 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.09.23.11.56.32@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:53:57 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2010.09.22.18.35.40@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>>> On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 18:13:49 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just had one of these lovely old amps across the bench, and was
>>>> extremely surprised to see a plate voltage of 730 on the two 6CA7 /
>>>> EL34 output pentodes.
>>>
>>> That's what they run em at. What did you need to know about them, I
>>> used to own a 112 combo 65/35 watter. Probably very similar.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Nothing particularly. Their website has all the schematics for free
>> download, and I fixed all the problems on this one. I was just
>> interested to see if anyone had any stories about them - or the
>> manufacturer in general - as it's not a brand commonly seen here.
>>
>> Arfa
>
> I didn't care for the sound of my 112 combo. It was tolerable with some
> external FX. Played a sand colored 130 watt head didn't care for it.
> Company was founded incognito by Leo Fender who at the time had a 10 year
> non-compete clause with CBS. The early amps were better, newer being
> hybrid with tube output. Pedal Steel guitar players did like them
> however. And they made a decent keyboard amp.
>
>
>
Interesting. This one was a hybrid using some early can-type opamps in the
front end. The schematics showed three different output configurations, two
of which employed FETs in the driver/phase splitter. The version that I was
repairing had a conventional 12AX7 phase splitter. I don't play guitar
myself, but keep an instrument in the workshop for test purposes. I have to
say that the sound from this amp was 'harsh'. Not distorted or anything,
just not the 'smooth' sound that you normally associate with a tube output
stage. not 'melodic' sounding is about the best way I can put it. I guess
that's why they might be considered good keyboard amps. I've always thought
that the 'hard' sound of transistor power amps, suits keyboards well.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Wholesale Jordan foamposite liite Man www.cntrade09.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/175a037238920820?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Recovering deleted answering machine email
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d063e26958de9442?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 9:27 am
From: news@jecarter.us

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 22:03:43 -0700 (PDT), Jesse Graybill
<jesse.graybill@gmail.com> wrote:

>I have an AT&T answering machine that I accidentally deleted a message
>on.
>
>AT&T has told me there's no official way to get the message back.
>
>Is there any way to pull this off the hardware directly?
>
>Thanks!

If it's a semi-current model with messages stored on a chip, it might
be possible with a lab full of electronic gear.

You might ask one of the thumb drive recovery companies for a quote -
start with the hard drive companies and see where they send you.
Ontrack Data Recovery is one I've used in the past for hard drives.

John

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/29c843525f6418dc?hl=en
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TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 23 2010 11:47 am
From: Hachiroku ハチロク

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 04:38:02 -0700, Kruse wrote:

> On Sep 21, 9:52 pm, Hachiroku ハチロク <anonym...@not-for-mail.invalid>
> wrote:
>> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:40:57 -0500, Steve Barker wrote:
>> > On 9/21/2010 1:14 AM, Y Knot wrote:
>> >> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
>>
>> > ya, run it off in a river and buy an American car.
>>
>> Why would he want a downgrade?
>>
>
> Maybe he's tired of taking a Toyota in every other week for the
> recalls.........

I know. My 1985 Corolla and my 1995 Tercel were both recalled for the
EXACT SAME THING! Ten years apart, and you would think they would learn to
tighten the ground screw on the radio antenna properly!

Jeeze, I tell ya.

--
You keep your K00L-Aid.
I'll have TEA.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT ACTRESS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de736d3b0dc283c1?hl=en
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