sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 5 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Supergluing your fingers together - 15 messages, 10 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27d3b5cbe57935fb?hl=en
* Technics SA-310 Receiver Fixed! - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/266f00b3a43b6910?hl=en
* how to remove alkaline battery residue - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/714a9d09282224a3?hl=en
* del1702fp monitor - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9a933a2bf378485?hl=en
* Weird stuff -- update -- (was Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not working,
what does this sign mean) - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90e33648f2879de5?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Supergluing your fingers together
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27d3b5cbe57935fb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 11:20 am
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

>Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
>to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
>effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
>concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
>acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
>wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
>elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.

> Anyone ever glued one hand to
>the other ?

Only students of modern Zen koans.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 11:29 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

The second best story I've heard about 'Superglue' mistakes occurred
back in the '60's. One of the plastics engineers described the events
like this.

'Joe' was assigned to do a 'miracle of plastics' demonstration for an
open house the company was hosting. One part of his presentation
involved putting a couple of drops of Eastman 910 at one end of a
strip of rubber, overlapping the other end, then stretching the rubber
until it broke. This demonstrated that the bond was stronger than the
original material. While this was going on, one 10 year old boy was
watching this, obviously fascinated.

Eventually 'Joe' had to take a break. He starts to head to the Men's
room, then realized that he should put the Superglue away. He heads
back to the table, and spots the ten year old applying Superglue to
both hands. At this point the kid looks up, spots 'Joe' heading for
him. The kid quickly clenches his fists, jams them in his pockets,
and vanishes into the crowd. After thinking for a few seconds, Joe
heads back to the Men's room.

===========================================

The best story involves 'Carol' and her live-in boyfriend, 'Matt'.
'Matt' had a way with women. It was a way that didn't involve much
consideration for their feelings, kind words, or affection. 'Carol'
is getting tired of having 'Matt' around, but hadn't quite reached the
point where she was ready to throw him out.

That changed one night when 'Matt' decided to go drinking after work
rather than come home. Eventually ''Matt' showed up drunk, smelling
of beer, cigarette smoke, and cheap perfume. And 'Matt' wanted to
have sex. When 'Carol' objected, 'Matt' slapped her a few times until
she changed her mind. Afterward, 'Matt' promptly goes to sleep on his
back. 'Carol' has had enough, she grabs the bottle of Superglue,
applies some liberally to both of 'Matt's' hands, glues them to his
genitalia, then call the police to report that her boyfriend has raped
her.

PlainBill

== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 11:43 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per N_Cook:
>Anyone ever glued one hand to
>the other ?

IIRC, buncha years ago there was a robber somewhere who, after
robbing somebody at an ATM machine, would super glue the victim's
hands to the machine.
--
PeteCresswell

== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 11:52 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:24:26 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

> In article <pan.2010.09.02.14.01.32@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>, Meat
> Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>I glue large cuts together. From what I've heard/read Cyanoacrylate was
>>developed as a substitute for stitching wounds together on the
>>battlefield during the Vietnam war. Little wonder it bonds skin so
>>thoroughly. It's also used in its medical counterpart for some
>>surgeries.
>
> Yup... although the off-the-shelf cyanoacrylate has some amount of
> toxicity to skin cells, and is not ideal for this purpose. A lot of
> people do use it as an emergency / field dressing, though... I
> understand that rock climbers often carry a tube.
>
> Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate (butyl
> rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's not
> widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary adhesive in
> expensive single-use ampoules).

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after. I probably wouldn't use it
if I cut my finger off though :)

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 11:54 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:43:29 -0400, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

> Per N_Cook:
>>Anyone ever glued one hand to
>>the other ?
>
> IIRC, buncha years ago there was a robber somewhere who, after robbing
> somebody at an ATM machine, would super glue the victim's hands to the
> machine.

I know of a friend's friend whose disgruntled wife fed up with his
drinking used CA to glue the man's penis to his stomach while he was
passed out drunk.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 1:05 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:24:26 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:

>Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
>(butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells.
>It's not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
>adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).

The problem is that cyanoacrylate breaks down in the body into some
toxic substances. I had surgery in 2002 where the surgeon used glue
instead of sutchers or staples, a major improvement.

I have several types in my first aid box. The easiest to get is
"Liquid Bandage" which is not cyanoacrylate based, but is good enough.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_bandage>
The above URL mentions that the Band-Aid brand of liquid bandage is
cyanoacrylate based.

As for ungluing fingers, there is super glue remover. Lacking that,
acetone or hot water works.
<http://www.ehow.com/how_116797_superglue-skin.html>
<http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html>
Of course, it's kinda difficult to type these URL's if your fingers
are glued to a connector.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 1:29 pm
From: Adrian C

On 02/09/2010 21:05, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> As for ungluing fingers, there is super glue remover. Lacking that,
> acetone or hot water works.
> <http://www.ehow.com/how_116797_superglue-skin.html>
> <http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html>
> Of course, it's kinda difficult to type these URL's if your fingers
> are glued to a connector.
>

I've shortened them here if that is any assistance ;-)

http://tinyurl.com/rgzsu

http://tinyurl.com/2f8lzl

--
Adrian C

== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 2:17 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <pan.2010.09.02.18.52.00@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate (butyl
>> rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's not
>> widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary adhesive in
>> expensive single-use ampoules).
>
>Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
>cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after.

I've used it in that way, as well, with no apparent adverse reactions.
I suppose different people may have different levels of sensitivity to
the stuff.

== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 3:39 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:17:55 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

> In article <pan.2010.09.02.18.52.00@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>, Meat
> Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
>>> (butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's
>>> not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
>>> adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).
>>
>>Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
>>cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after.
>
> I've used it in that way, as well, with no apparent adverse reactions. I
> suppose different people may have different levels of sensitivity to the
> stuff.

Absolutely. My mom is very allergic to aspirin. I'm not. I think as you
said the same holds true for these type of chemicals. However in larger
amounts other than a tiny droplet or two I spread along the 2.5cm cut all
bets may be off. If you are a surgeon and are using it internally you
would want the least possibilities of toxicity. If I were out in the
field and gashed my hand wide open many miles from help I'd opt-in the
CA :)

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:26 pm
From: PeterD

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:22:52 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Acetone, and generally it won't hurt you if you don't inhale it all...

== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:37 pm
From: AZ Nomad

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
>>Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
>>to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
>>effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
>>concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
>>acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
>>wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
>>elses experiences/advice for the next time?

>Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
>If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
>glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
>to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:47 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

> On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org>
> wrote:
>>>Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
>>>glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
>>>but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
>>>was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool
>>>balls of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with
>>>a rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
>>>worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time?
>
>>Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment. If
>>you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate glues
>>(usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought to find
>>a supply of debonder in the same rack.
>
>
> Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well except
> on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to see
> anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Any application that does not apply a sheer force. I use it to glue new
guitar frets into a slotted fretboard. It's a CA designed for that
application though. Also good for guitar nuts. Can't imagine something so
popular that didn't work.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:46 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

AZ Nomad wrote:
> On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
>>> Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
>>> to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
>>> effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
>>> concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
>>> acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
>>> wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
>>> elses experiences/advice for the next time?
>
>> Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
>> If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
>> glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
>> to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.
>
>
> Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
> except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
> see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:00 pm
From: AZ Nomad

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:46:37 -0400, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>AZ Nomad wrote:
>> On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
>>>> Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
>>>> to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
>>>> effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
>>>> concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
>>>> acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
>>>> wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
>>>> elses experiences/advice for the next time?
>>
>>> Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
>>> If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
>>> glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
>>> to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.
>>
>>
>> Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
>> except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
>> see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

>I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
>cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
>little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

I suppose if you didn't want something permenant, it might work well.

== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:25 pm
From: who where

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:02:00 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Back to gluing cuts. I was sharpening a large hunting knife and managed
>to cut the side of my right thumb to the bone. Cut was about 2.5cm and I
>could see bone and other structures underneath. Didn't look like I cut
>anything else and my thumb still worked ok so rather than getting it
>stitched I used a grade of cyano we use for guitar work. Got the bleeding
>stopped, wasn't much to begin with. Applied the glue and the cut was
>closed immediately. I put cloth tape around the joint so the thumb
>wouldn't flex as that was where the cut occurred. A week later the cut
>had healed well enough to remove the tape. Now I have a scar but it is a
>straight line. Be happy to upload a pic of it.

Is that a clue to your usenet nick?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Receiver Fixed!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/266f00b3a43b6910?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 12:36 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> A PDF at alldatasheet.com shows a 2040 as having a max
> junction temp of 150 C. That's 302 F. I would guess most are
> the same.

I don't think the module would live very long at that temperature. The
behavior of Computer Drive seems to keep it hot, too. I've always been
of the school of thought that said "keep your silicon devices cool and
they will live longer".

Then again, I have no reason to believe that the old module was ever
replaced, and it did survive 27 years worth of usage...

I don't know about the relative toughness of STK-XXXX amplifier
modules. I've always been of the impression that they are not always
robust. Yet it seems that people have abused them and gotten away with
it. And outside of this one receiver, I've never lost one...

William

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 1:56 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 12:36:01 -0700, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> A PDF at alldatasheet.com shows a 2040 as having a max junction temp of
>> 150 C. That's 302 F. I would guess most are the same.
>
> I don't think the module would live very long at that temperature. The
> behavior of Computer Drive seems to keep it hot, too. I've always been
> of the school of thought that said "keep your silicon devices cool and
> they will live longer".
>
> Then again, I have no reason to believe that the old module was ever
> replaced, and it did survive 27 years worth of usage...
>
> I don't know about the relative toughness of STK-XXXX amplifier modules.
> I've always been of the impression that they are not always robust. Yet
> it seems that people have abused them and gotten away with it. And
> outside of this one receiver, I've never lost one...
>
> William

I've always thought the PCDPP to be robust. Your right they wouldn't last
too long at a max Jt of 150C but most survive well at a working temp of
105C.

Panasonic, Sanyo, Sansui, Pioneer Yamaha etc used them. Rear Projection
TV sets used them for convergence amps which I consider the hardest
working part of the set. So there must be some reason these were chosen
other than a convenient package. If you use the correct amount of heat
sink compound spread evenly and torque them down properly provided the
heat sink has enough surface area there is no reason for these to be
problematic. Like you said the originals in your SA lasted 27 years even
biased class A.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: how to remove alkaline battery residue
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/714a9d09282224a3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:33 pm
From: "Aurel Boisvert"

I used a rust remover that seems to give good result.
Rinse after with water to remove residue.

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrni7ilo4.f7t.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
> Between the combination of the hotest day in many years and really bad
batch
> of alkaline batteries, I have several devices with a crystaline residue
from
> the batteries leaking.
>
> Besides brushing with a succession of stiffer brushes, is there some
chemical
> that can safely remove it? It's all on metal contacts in plastic, but some
are
> surrounded by anodized aluminium.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Geoff.
>
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must
order
> dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat
it. :-)

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: del1702fp monitor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9a933a2bf378485?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 4:51 pm
From: ajd15

I have a 1702fp monitor that died. The power light is on but the
screen is blank. I need a manual or some sugestions on a repair
approach.

Thanks
Tony

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:03 pm
From: Bob Villa

On Sep 2, 6:51 pm, ajd15 <ajdea...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have a 1702fp monitor that died. The power light is on but the
> screen is blank. I need a manual or some sugestions on a repair
> approach.
>
> Thanks
> Tony

It's most likely the the tube/inverter. If you shine a flashlight on
it can you make out anything on the display? (I'm assuming a 17" flat
panel?)
Even if you fix this yourself...you would be better off buying a new
FP (or a used one) price wise.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:32 pm
From: who where

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:51:30 -0700 (PDT), ajd15 <ajdean15@gmail.com>
wrote:

>I have a 1702fp monitor that died. The power light is on but the
>screen is blank. I need a manual or some sugestions on a repair
>approach.

Visit www.badcaps.net, register (free, no catches) and post a
description there. Be nice and the resident gurus will guide you
though a repair job.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:32 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:51:30 -0700 (PDT), ajd15 <ajdean15@gmail.com>
wrote:

>I have a 1702fp monitor that died. The power light is on but the
>screen is blank. I need a manual or some sugestions on a repair
>approach.

Sounds familiar. Blown electrolytic capacitors. Find and replace:
<http://ccl-la.com/LCDrepair12.htm>
<http://www.instructables.com/id/FREE-17%22-LCD-Monitor---How-to-do-it%3F/>
When you look for replacement caps (i.e. eBay, Digikey, Mouser, etc),
be sure to get 105C low-ESR caps.

PS... reading the manual is a sign of weakness, inexperience, and
desperation. You probably don't need a manual for this repair.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Weird stuff -- update -- (was Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not
working, what does this sign mean)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90e33648f2879de5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:03 pm
From: Ignoramus28169

Things are getting weirder and weirder. My original post is at the bottom.

I have received the replacement relay and capacitor today.

Installed them (it was a 2 minute job).

Plugged in the fridge.

The compressor happily started working normally, mildly vibrating and
indicating in all respects that it is running fine.

Happy after 2 minutes, I turned off the fridge, and reinstalled the
rear insulated covering panel and ground.

Plugged in again and I HEARD THE SAME OLD DREADED BUZZING SOUND. Now,
the compressor motor would not start again! It busses fomr several
seconds and the relay clicks and turns it off.

I am completely puzzled as to why exactly it turned on once, but would
not turn on again.

Any idea?

On 2010-08-31, Ignoramus20906 <ignoramus20906@NOSPAM.20906.invalid> wrote:
> I have an electronic Kenmore refrigerator 596.50013100. I bought it
> from a private party over a year ago and it has been working great
> until now. It seems very well made, overall.
>
> Yesterday it started beeping and displaying a strange trouble signal:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Kenmore-Trouble.jpg
>
> It is right above the word "Kenmore", is red and looks like a crossed
> lock and an exclamation.
>
> The temperature in the unit has been rising since then and clearly, it
> is not cooling anything. Right now both freezer and fridge are at 46
> degrees F.
>
> I tried calling Kenmore, but could only speak to dummies who are
> forbidden to give any diagnostics.
>
> My question is WTF does this sign mean? It is meant to tell me
> something.
>
> Thanks
>
> i

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:11 pm
From: Karl Townsend

...
>Happy after 2 minutes, I turned off the fridge, and reinstalled the
>rear insulated covering panel and ground.
>
>Plugged in again and I HEARD THE SAME OLD DREADED BUZZING SOUND. Now,
>the compressor motor would not start again! It busses fomr several
>seconds and the relay clicks and turns it off.
>
>I am completely puzzled as to why exactly it turned on once, but would
>not turn on again.
>
>Any idea?
>
Did you try cursing and kicking? That's my normal solution to this
type problem. Its never helped, but I keep trying it anyway.

Karl

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:14 pm
From: rangerssuck

No doubt someone mor knowledgable will have something to add here, but
it sounds like the compressor is trying to start against a load. How
long was it unplugged while you were replacing the cover? I imagine it
should be unplugged at least three ininutes, and probably five.
However, I'd also imagine that there would be a timer of some sort to
prevent short-cycling. Of course, the thermal protection in the motor
would kick in eventually, but my air conditioner, for example, simply
will not run the compressor for a few minutes after you plug it in if
it had been running just prior to unplugging.

Anyway, I'd suggest that you let it rest a few minutes and then try
again.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 2 2010 5:30 pm
From: aemeijers

On 9/2/2010 8:03 PM, Ignoramus28169 wrote:
> Things are getting weirder and weirder. My original post is at the bottom.
>
> I have received the replacement relay and capacitor today.
>
> Installed them (it was a 2 minute job).
>
> Plugged in the fridge.
>
> The compressor happily started working normally, mildly vibrating and
> indicating in all respects that it is running fine.
>
> Happy after 2 minutes, I turned off the fridge, and reinstalled the
> rear insulated covering panel and ground.
>
> Plugged in again and I HEARD THE SAME OLD DREADED BUZZING SOUND. Now,
> the compressor motor would not start again! It busses fomr several
> seconds and the relay clicks and turns it off.
>
> I am completely puzzled as to why exactly it turned on once, but would
> not turn on again.
>
> Any idea?
>

Take the cover back off and see if anything changes? Mebbe fridge got
shoved into the wall, and the cover got bent, and is making something
not work?

I'm no fridge expert, but when something stops working when you put the
lid on, that tells me the lid is somehow binding something up or
shorting something out.

--
aem sends...

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