sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* It's Fitzpatrick's RPR - - Relative Phase Relationships: - - Phase Coherence
is the reason for the binding attractive force in ALL the 4 fundamental forces,
Proof of this is in the following: - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a80c550e642ca649?hl=en
* Cassette tape component - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d09b6898cd0cae?hl=en
* Help needed to identify connector please - 10 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/faf6b877e55f6221?hl=en
* pleasant surprise from MCM - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a4c659409064c74d?hl=en
* Power mosfet question - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b411ba653c75dcef?hl=en
* Cheap Coach Handbags Chanel Handbags DG Handbags GUCCI Handbags Wholesale(
http://www.24hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fde4b1f7a95d5145?hl=en
* general question: mainboard caps - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
* My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
* followup: Carver PM-1.5a amp - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07cfc4cb539da42f?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: It's Fitzpatrick's RPR - - Relative Phase Relationships: - - Phase
Coherence is the reason for the binding attractive force in ALL the 4
fundamental forces, Proof of this is in the following:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a80c550e642ca649?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 12:10 am
From: fitz

It's Fitzpatrick's RPR - - Relative Phase Relationships: - - Phase
Coherence is the reason for the binding attractive force in ALL the 4
fundamental forces, Proof of this is in the following:

Our space is built up by the average amount elements are out of phase
with each other.

Repulsive forces are generated between elements that are out of phase
more than this average.

While elements more in phase, than this average (phase coherence),
produce attractive forces.

http://www.amperefitz.com/phase.coherence.htm

Click link above -- Science!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cassette tape component
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d09b6898cd0cae?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 1:31 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Puddin' Man" <puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:hhkd96hon5rq4j8e6703dn4fnl9u1f9ak1@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 01:44:23 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
>>It's the cam control solenoid. Works the latch that releases the cam gear
>>to
>>allow it to be driven to its next phase.
>
> Many thanks. These things can look strange if you've not seen them
> before.
>
>>As to the fault, check any tape
>>presence sense switches that it may have - normally 'leaf' types in a
>>clear
>>plastic protection 'sleeve' mounted at the top edge of the deck,
>
> There's about 5 of 'em, 2 for write-protect and 3 for <???>.

Auto tape-type detect, that sort of thing. You might also find another
rather smaller and 'open' one on the main body of the deck, that is there to
detect when the head plate has reached the end of its travel in the 'heads
in' position.

I ran compressed
> air thru, but couldn't figger how to get the plastic cover off. The
> copper leaves *look* OK, but ...

The contacts get 'sooty' and need cleaning by pulling a piece of paper
soaked in isopropyl alcohol or switch cleaner through them.

>
> Do you know ... do the plastic covers just slip off, or does one
> need to unsolder, or ???

Can be either. The covers are pretty much always 'clipped' on by a tiny
dimple at each side, but the trick is that in order to slide them off, they
sometimes need to be clear of the deck metalwork. Sometimes they will come
off simply by being 'firm' with them and wiggling, but sometimes, you need
to slip a thin scalpel blade or similar between the switch body and its
cover. If the switches are causing trouble, the deck usually cuts out very
quickly after starting, as the vibration of the heads going in, 'rattles'
the switch and makes its contacts momentarily fail, which the system control
micro then interprets as there being no tape present, so shuts the deck back
down to 'neutral' so that the door interlock will be released. If the heads
go in ok, and the deck runs for a few seconds - possibly even actually
playing the tape correctly (music-wise) - then this is usually due to
failure of the take up spool to rotate. The system control allows a few
seconds for this, as cassette tapes can get tight, and the take up run a bit
erratically. They try to produce a compromise between allowing a tight tape
to be played, and not producing too large a tape loop, if the take up spool
is genuinely not going round at all. You can force the deck to run by
locating which of the leaf switches is the tape presence detect one, and
shorting it, or holding it up with your finger. On a Technics deck, you may
need to have the inner door frame closed for the deck to run, but you can
have the outer door trim removed to get your finger in. You should then be
able to see the take up to check if it is running, and see why not, if not.
You can also check that the torque at the spool is sufficient to run the
tape.

>
>>and also
>>check that the belt which drives the take up spool is good. It's very
>>common
>>on Technics decks for that belt to go 'elastic' and slip.
>
> I'd better just replace that one. Might take a while to find a
> replacement.

You should be able to see or 'feel' if the belts are bad. Suspect the take
up drive belt particularly if it's one of the Technics grey ones.

>
> Thanks,
> P

Welcome.

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 7:55 pm
From: Puddin' Man

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:31:08 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>>>As to the fault, check any tape
>>>presence sense switches that it may have - normally 'leaf' types in a
>>>clear
>>>plastic protection 'sleeve' mounted at the top edge of the deck,
>>
>> There's about 5 of 'em, 2 for write-protect and 3 for <???>.
>
>
>Auto tape-type detect, that sort of thing. You might also find another
>rather smaller and 'open' one on the main body of the deck, that is there to
>detect when the head plate has reached the end of its travel in the 'heads
>in' position.

Yes, found the head-plate sensor.

> I ran compressed
>> air thru, but couldn't figger how to get the plastic cover off. The
>> copper leaves *look* OK, but ...
>
>The contacts get 'sooty' and need cleaning by pulling a piece of paper
>soaked in isopropyl alcohol or switch cleaner through them.
>>
>> Do you know ... do the plastic covers just slip off, or does one
>> need to unsolder, or ???
>
>Can be either. The covers are pretty much always 'clipped' on by a tiny
>dimple at each side, but the trick is that in order to slide them off, they
>sometimes need to be clear of the deck metalwork. Sometimes they will come
>off simply by being 'firm' with them and wiggling, but sometimes, you need
>to slip a thin scalpel blade or similar between the switch body and its
>cover.

4 little dimples per switch. I baby-ed 'em, nursed 'em, spread 'em open
a tad to ease the cover off, and many dimples broke anyway. Old, brittle
plastic. Got the clear covers off, but they won't re-mount, just hang
loose and rattle-y.

Ran a jewelers file thru the contacts, then cleaned 'em with the contact
cleaner on paper.

>If the switches are causing trouble, the deck usually cuts out very
>quickly after starting, as the vibration of the heads going in, 'rattles'
>the switch and makes its contacts momentarily fail, which the system control
>micro then interprets as there being no tape present, so shuts the deck back
>down to 'neutral' so that the door interlock will be released. If the heads
>go in ok, and the deck runs for a few seconds - possibly even actually
>playing the tape correctly (music-wise) - then this is usually due to
>failure of the take up spool to rotate. The system control allows a few
>seconds for this, as cassette tapes can get tight, and the take up run a bit
>erratically. They try to produce a compromise between allowing a tight tape
>to be played, and not producing too large a tape loop, if the take up spool
>is genuinely not going round at all. You can force the deck to run by
>locating which of the leaf switches is the tape presence detect one, and
>shorting it, or holding it up with your finger. On a Technics deck, you may
>need to have the inner door frame closed for the deck to run, but you can
>have the outer door trim removed to get your finger in. You should then be
>able to see the take up to check if it is running, and see why not, if not.
>You can also check that the torque at the spool is sufficient to run the
>tape.
>
>>>and also
>>>check that the belt which drives the take up spool is good. It's very
>>>common
>>>on Technics decks for that belt to go 'elastic' and slip.
>>
>> I'd better just replace that one. Might take a while to find a
>> replacement.
>
>You should be able to see or 'feel' if the belts are bad. Suspect the take
>up drive belt particularly if it's one of the Technics grey ones.

The belt is black in color and doesn't appear to be the problem.

I put it back together sans plastic covers and re-tested. Same result.
No evidence that the leaf switches are the problem.

Many symptoms seem to point to a faulty motor, but it's curious. The
playback motor was working. When I swapped it into the record-deck, I
also got the same result (just 3 clicks, then nothing).

If you can think of anything else, I'm all ears, but as of now, the score
is as follows:

Matsushita: 2 (assuming I'm forced to pitch both units)
Me: zero :-(

In any event, you've been extremely helpful, and it is -very- much appreciated.

Prost,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help needed to identify connector please
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/faf6b877e55f6221?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 2:56 am
From: Kenuf

Hi to all group members,

I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
luck so far.

There are 2 pictures at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/

My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.

Thanks for any help you may be able to give.

Kenuf

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 9:54 am
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Sep 20, 4:56 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
> Hi to all group members,
>
> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
> luck so far.
>
> There are 2 pictures at
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>
> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>
> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>
> Kenuf

pictures don't show any connectors, or they are so small as to be
invisible.

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 10:24 am
From: Adrian C

On 20/09/2010 10:56, Kenuf wrote:
> Hi to all group members,
>
> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
> luck so far.
>
> There are 2 pictures at
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>
> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>
> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>
> Kenuf

[added x-post to sci.electronics.components]

I've seen connectors like that on interwiring between boards inside old
television and VCR sets, maybe Philips or Sony. Looking in my junk pile
I found one connector made by Pressac, but doing a search today on that
just reveals catalogues for their telecoms and data products.

What's the distance between the pins? Also, if an manfacturing mark or
name can't be identified from the body how about desoldering it? Might
be detailed underneath.

--
Adrian C

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 10:35 am
From: Kenuf

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:54:10 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>On Sep 20, 4:56 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
>> Hi to all group members,
>>
>> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
>> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
>> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
>> luck so far.
>>
>> There are 2 pictures at
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>>
>> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>>
>> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>>
>> Kenuf
>
>pictures don't show any connectors, or they are so small as to be
>invisible.

Hi,

I tried the link myself and it seems OK, however I have added another
picture of just the (fried) plug & socket. I hope this is now clearer.

Kenuf

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 10:52 am
From: Kenuf

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 18:24:44 +0100, Adrian C <email@here.invalid>
wrote:

>On 20/09/2010 10:56, Kenuf wrote:
>> Hi to all group members,
>>
>> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
>> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
>> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
>> luck so far.
>>
>> There are 2 pictures at
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>>
>> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>>
>> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>>
>> Kenuf
>
>[added x-post to sci.electronics.components]
>
>I've seen connectors like that on interwiring between boards inside old
>television and VCR sets, maybe Philips or Sony. Looking in my junk pile
>I found one connector made by Pressac, but doing a search today on that
>just reveals catalogues for their telecoms and data products.
>
>What's the distance between the pins? Also, if an manfacturing mark or
>name can't be identified from the body how about desoldering it? Might
>be detailed underneath.

There are no markings that I can find, but it is badly burnt. It is a
6-way plug, with 1 terminal burnt away.

The distance between the pins is about 5.5mm and the 2 wider spaced
pins are about 8.0mm.

For those interested this is from an industrial dish washing machine
made in Italy. The make is Colged. The parts are not available from
the manufacturer.
I am told it is four to five years old, looks like tin solder so could
be right.

Kenuf

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 11:17 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <0l6f965nun9s1hc3l5sk3ojbfhurvlf68m@4ax.com>,
Kenuf <anon@invalid.com> wrote:

> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:54:10 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
> <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:
>
> >On Sep 20, 4:56 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
> >> Hi to all group members,
> >>
> >> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
> >> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
> >> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
> >> luck so far.
> >>
> >> There are 2 pictures at
> >>
> >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
> >>
> >> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
> >>
> >> Kenuf
> >
> >pictures don't show any connectors, or they are so small as to be
> >invisible.
>
> Hi,
>
> I tried the link myself and it seems OK, however I have added another
> picture of just the (fried) plug & socket. I hope this is now clearer.
>
> Kenuf

Link works for me. Have you ascertained the cause of the failure? Any
reason you can't hardwire that or replace the board mounted plug/socket
with a flying connector?

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 11:40 am
From: Kenuf

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:17:07 -0700, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>In article <0l6f965nun9s1hc3l5sk3ojbfhurvlf68m@4ax.com>,
> Kenuf <anon@invalid.com> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:54:10 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
>> <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:
>>
>> >On Sep 20, 4:56 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
>> >> Hi to all group members,
>> >>
>> >> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
>> >> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
>> >> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
>> >> luck so far.
>> >>
>> >> There are 2 pictures at
>> >>
>> >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>> >>
>> >> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>> >>
>> >> Kenuf
>> >
>> >pictures don't show any connectors, or they are so small as to be
>> >invisible.
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I tried the link myself and it seems OK, however I have added another
>> picture of just the (fried) plug & socket. I hope this is now clearer.
>>
>> Kenuf
>
>Link works for me. Have you ascertained the cause of the failure? Any
>reason you can't hardwire that or replace the board mounted plug/socket
>with a flying connector?

The board is not mine, trying to help someone out, really. The cause
of the failure is as yet undetermined, the contacts on 2 of the relays
connected to the burnt plug have been arcing, and one of the
fuseholders is burnt from the heat of the burning plug. I did not get
a look at the fuses.
It could be a poor contact on the plug/socket that caused the burning.
Poor solder joint?

If it were mine I would do as you suggest and replace it with
something different, the owner would like it as original. It may well
have to be substituted if the machine is to be got working again.

Kenuf

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 2:30 pm
From: whit3rd

On Sep 20, 11:40 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:

> If it were mine I would do as you suggest and replace it with
> something different, the owner would like it as original. It may well
> have to be substituted if the machine is to be got working again.

The owner needs to be less mule-like on this. The 'as original'
condition was the precursor to its current failed state.
That is NOT worth revisiting.

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 2:58 pm
From: Adrian C

On 20/09/2010 18:52, Kenuf wrote:

> The distance between the pins is about 5.5mm and the 2 wider spaced
> pins are about 8.0mm.
>
> For those interested this is from an industrial dish washing machine
> made in Italy. The make is Colged. The parts are not available from
> the manufacturer.
> I am told it is four to five years old, looks like tin solder so could
> be right.
>
> Kenuf

Here you go. :-)

<http://www.camdenelec.com/pdf/CTM1300.pdf>

Manufactured in the UK. If they won't deal direct with you, Farnell, CPC
or Rapid Electronics are listed as distributors.

--
Adrian C

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 5:37 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Kenuf" <anon@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:d0af96lqan7ovmaf35ibg98ifanuo6cf5v@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 11:17:07 -0700, Smitty Two
> <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>In article <0l6f965nun9s1hc3l5sk3ojbfhurvlf68m@4ax.com>,
>> Kenuf <anon@invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 09:54:10 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"
>>> <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> >On Sep 20, 4:56 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
>>> >> Hi to all group members,
>>> >>
>>> >> I am having difficulties in identifying a plug/socket type, and if
>>> >> anyone can help would they also know where these can be obtained?
>>> >> I am in the UK and have spent some time looking online, however, no
>>> >> luck so far.
>>> >>
>>> >> There are 2 pictures at
>>> >>
>>> >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/kenufpics/
>>> >>
>>> >> My first time posting here (or Flickr) so I hope it makes sense.
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
>>> >>
>>> >> Kenuf
>>> >
>>> >pictures don't show any connectors, or they are so small as to be
>>> >invisible.
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I tried the link myself and it seems OK, however I have added another
>>> picture of just the (fried) plug & socket. I hope this is now clearer.
>>>
>>> Kenuf
>>
>>Link works for me. Have you ascertained the cause of the failure? Any
>>reason you can't hardwire that or replace the board mounted plug/socket
>>with a flying connector?
>
> The board is not mine, trying to help someone out, really. The cause
> of the failure is as yet undetermined, the contacts on 2 of the relays
> connected to the burnt plug have been arcing, and one of the
> fuseholders is burnt from the heat of the burning plug. I did not get
> a look at the fuses.
> It could be a poor contact on the plug/socket that caused the burning.
> Poor solder joint?
>
> If it were mine I would do as you suggest and replace it with
> something different, the owner would like it as original. It may well
> have to be substituted if the machine is to be got working again.
>
> Kenuf
>

What's it from ? Washing machine maybe ? If so, I'd just nip round to my
local electrical shop where they repair washing machines, and see if they've
got a scrap board with the same connector on that they would let you have
for a couple of quid.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: pleasant surprise from MCM
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a4c659409064c74d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 6:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I recently purchased two "switched" surge suppressors from MCM. (Turning on
a master device turns on all the devices connected to the "controlled"
outlets. I use them to switch my power amps on and off with the electronic
crossovers.)

One was defective -- the controlled outlets shut off after about 1 second --
and I returned the unit for replacement. Much to my surprise, they refunded
the full shipping charges. I also got very courteous treatment over the
phone.

--
"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right
questions." -- Edwin Land

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 5:41 pm
From: Jamie

William Sommerwerck wrote:

> I recently purchased two "switched" surge suppressors from MCM. (Turning on
> a master device turns on all the devices connected to the "controlled"
> outlets. I use them to switch my power amps on and off with the electronic
> crossovers.)
>
> One was defective -- the controlled outlets shut off after about 1 second --
> and I returned the unit for replacement. Much to my surprise, they refunded
> the full shipping charges. I also got very courteous treatment over the
> phone.
>
well slap my ass, doesn't that just take the cake!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power mosfet question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b411ba653c75dcef?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 7:13 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

I have a power mosfet that was shorted.. Due to my carelessness...

A very fine sliver of solder bridged the gate to the drain. Would this
usually destroy the said mosfet? Or something else in line with it??

Its a K3556... Is there a simple test for these? The drain pin was cut
off, but enough left to make a very fine solder bridge... ughh...

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 7:24 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fImdnSKviKex8QrRnZ2dnVY3goqdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>I have a power mosfet that was shorted.. Due to my carelessness...
>
> A very fine sliver of solder bridged the gate to the drain. Would this
> usually destroy the said mosfet? Or something else in line with it??
>
> Its a K3556... Is there a simple test for these? The drain pin was cut
> off, but enough left to make a very fine solder bridge... ughh...
>

Well scratch that.. If I'm holding the volt meter on the gate side of the
mosfet while starting up it will work... i guess I have to trace back and
see whats burnt up..

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 5:38 pm
From: Jamie

Michael Kennedy wrote:

> I have a power mosfet that was shorted.. Due to my carelessness...
>
> A very fine sliver of solder bridged the gate to the drain. Would this
> usually destroy the said mosfet? Or something else in line with it??
>
> Its a K3556... Is there a simple test for these? The drain pin was cut
> off, but enough left to make a very fine solder bridge... ughh...
>
>
yup. That would pretty much forward bias that fet beyond max!

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 5:40 pm
From: Jamie

Michael Kennedy wrote:

> "Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:fImdnSKviKex8QrRnZ2dnVY3goqdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
>>I have a power mosfet that was shorted.. Due to my carelessness...
>>
>>A very fine sliver of solder bridged the gate to the drain. Would this
>>usually destroy the said mosfet? Or something else in line with it??
>>
>>Its a K3556... Is there a simple test for these? The drain pin was cut
>>off, but enough left to make a very fine solder bridge... ughh...
>>
>
>
>
> Well scratch that.. If I'm holding the volt meter on the gate side of the
> mosfet while starting up it will work... i guess I have to trace back and
> see whats burnt up..
>
>
It's most likely if you didn't over bias the fet and kill it, you may
have destroyed the driving circuit since it most likely can only handle
a fraction of what is on the drain..

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TOPIC: general question: mainboard caps
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 12:52 pm
From: Michael

Hello,

I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
yet available.)

Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?

Thanks,

Michael

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 2:53 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 9/20/2010 2:52 PM, Michael wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
> electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
> still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
> yet available.)
>
> Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
> re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
> when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?

I fully recapped a pair of Dell Optoplex GX-280 mother boards.
About 15 or so caps per board.

Using a vacuum desoldering tool is the best method, but you can
remove the caps but using a wide enough tip to hit both leads
at the same time, then go back and clean the solder out of the holes
with a piece of stainless steel like a dental pick. Melt, stuff,
let cool and remove.

On the caps look for "low esr" and 105C temperature range. I try to
buy Nichicon caps by default. At $1 or so apiece, it's not worth saving
a few cents to get a crap cap that won't last.

Jeff

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 12:18 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeffrey Angus <jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:4c97d7eb$0$14818$bbae4d71@news.suddenlink.net...
> On 9/20/2010 2:52 PM, Michael wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
> > electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
> > still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
> > yet available.)
> >
> > Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
> > re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
> > when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>
> I fully recapped a pair of Dell Optoplex GX-280 mother boards.
> About 15 or so caps per board.
>
> Using a vacuum desoldering tool is the best method, but you can
> remove the caps but using a wide enough tip to hit both leads
> at the same time, then go back and clean the solder out of the holes
> with a piece of stainless steel like a dental pick. Melt, stuff,
> let cool and remove.
>
> On the caps look for "low esr" and 105C temperature range. I try to
> buy Nichicon caps by default. At $1 or so apiece, it's not worth saving
> a few cents to get a crap cap that won't last.
>
> Jeff

If you can clamp to the cap and pull at the same time it helps, I use a
surgical instrument like arterial forceps but longer opening arms and full
gripping teeth (retraction clamp?).
For the cleaning out of holes I made up a set of needle probes from
different sized st/st sewing needles glued into ballpoint pen barrels or
into drilled dowel

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 12:35 am
From: "N_Cook"

No 16 of part of my tool kit is the specific clamp
http://www.diversed.fsnet.co.uk/tools_s.jpg
if anyone should happen to know the medical name for.
Number 17 are surgical terminology "Spencer Wells" , good for heatsinking
etc

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Sep 20 2010 11:14 pm
From: Y Knot

Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: followup: Carver PM-1.5a amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07cfc4cb539da42f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 12:25 am
From: "N_Cook"

First time of meeting this triac drive rather than protection concept
Upping to 90 percent mains the current draw drops from the 0.5 amp of 80
percent maions to .2amp approx and then at 100 percent approx .25 amps, now
to test under heavy load

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