sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help identifying components
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a66446e99cc4d03?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:11 am
From: Lostgallifreyan

DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote in
news:0001HW.C8C2D3CC03132ACCB01AD9AF@news.eternal-september.org:

> Does the fact that both show ~ 0.6 v-drop rule out zeners?
>
> Thanks.
>
>

You sound like a man who imagines that by scrunchign his shoulders, no-one
will mind when he passes annopyingly several times through the same doorway.
>:)

And no. To test a zener you need to try a reverse voltage. Try a variable
voltage through a 10K resistor. A sine wave off a 30V transformer will do,
just look for the clipping voltages on a scope (or DC voltmeter if you add a
capacitor in parallel with the diode). Vz equals peak-peak voltage minus
about 0.58V. You may also have to remove one end of it from the circuit to be
certain.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:23 am
From: Lostgallifreyan

Lostgallifreyan <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in
news:Xns9DFE5D70DE9FCzoodlewurdle@216.196.109.145:

> Vz equals peak-peak voltage minus
> about 0.58V.

Evidently my turn to pass annoying through the same doorway...

Scratch that, the rest stands though, you just have to do the test once for
each polarity of that diode. (You'll only see both peaks at once if you have
a zero-referenced AC voltage, and even then that capacitor idea wouldn't
apply, and I made it more complex than it needs to be, you only need to see
the zener peak to know...).

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 10:40 am
From: DaveC

> Are the vacuum pump and solenoid AC or DC devices?

> Is there a SCR in there?

2 triacs: one for the motor, one for the solenoid.

> See if this schematic has any think close to what you have:
>
> http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/37779/Hakko_850B.html

Not much similarity. The 850 uses a 120vac motor; the 472 uses a 35 vac
motor. The 850 has no solenoid.

Thanks.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 5:04 pm
From: DaveC

Do zeners come in both glass & plastic packages?

Thanks.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pinch Rollers Hi8 Video Heads Select By Size not Model Teac Military
VCR V-80AB V-800AB
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5e0cad3ae4a667f3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 3:07 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Fantastic.. thank you

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:i7k4ou$2e1$1@reader1.panix.com...
> Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@xspamyahoo.com> wrote:
>> Any help in obtaining parts would be gratefully appreciated.
>>
>> Teac wasn't/isn't a VCR/camcorder manufacturer, and the tape transport
>> mechanisms may be made by another major manufacturer, although the
>> circuit
>> board of the video heads is labeled Teac (but no part number).
>> The hub of the head assembly is dated (yy. mm. dd), and I've seen other
>> brands of heads that were dated the same way, but can't remember which
>> brands.
>>
>> The head assemblies don't appear to have any special characteristics,
>> just 2
>> record/play heads and a FE flying erase head.
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> WB
>> .............
>
> I'm going to ask who really made those transports- I know somebody that
> used to service those things.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 5:48 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@xspamyahoo.com> wrote:

> Any help in obtaining parts would be gratefully appreciated.
> I'd like to find a US supplier of Hi8/Video8 pinch rollers where I can
> select the rollers by the actual part dimensions instead of Brand-Model.

> I'd also like to find a supplier with the same selection for upper
> drum/video heads for Hi8 tape mechanisms.

I really can't imagine who else there would be to deal with except Sony.

I'm pretty confident saying they had a lock on the market with Hi8,
especially with decks. Besides Teac, Pioneer had one or two models and as
far as I remember, besides the nameplate, inside they were identical to
another Sony model.

Besides buying scrap units off ebay and crossing your fingers, it seems
rather doubtful anyone is stocking any kind of parts of those, including
Sony.

I'd guess it'll be harder finding NOS parts for those than beta ones at this
point.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 2:48 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

Thanks for your comments. Sony is a likely source since, as you say, they
were a major manufacturer in 8mm/Hi8.

Earlier Teac airborne units were VHS and U-matic (roughly '80s and '70s)
while the Hi8 units which were still being used recently as flight mission
recorders, began in the early '90s.

Yep, I had considered buying random Sony VCR and camcorder models to try to
match parts, but then I'd get mired down with wanting to see if those units
could be repaired. I'm already easily distracted.

As far as Hi8 units go, there may have only been a couple of other brands of
Hi8 VCR units other than Sony.
There were numerous brands of camcorders, but many of the Hi8 camcorder
brands didn't produce VCRs.

In 8MM/Video8, Canon, Sharp, Samsung, even Memorex(Funai?) had some models,
but the other manufacturers that had previously made huge numbers of VHS
units didn't get involved (though some of them made VHS-C models).

Teac produced some commercial multi-channel data recorders, but no video
equipment for the US consumer market, as far as I can tell.
The data recorder models I've seen online have used audio-sized cassettes,
or VHS tapes for storage.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Bruce Esquibel" <bje@ripco.com> wrote in message
news:i7kr2e$god$1@remote5bge0.ripco.com...
> Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@xspamyahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Any help in obtaining parts would be gratefully appreciated.
>> I'd like to find a US supplier of Hi8/Video8 pinch rollers where I can
>> select the rollers by the actual part dimensions instead of Brand-Model.
>
>> I'd also like to find a supplier with the same selection for upper
>> drum/video heads for Hi8 tape mechanisms.
>
> I really can't imagine who else there would be to deal with except Sony.
>
> I'm pretty confident saying they had a lock on the market with Hi8,
> especially with decks. Besides Teac, Pioneer had one or two models and as
> far as I remember, besides the nameplate, inside they were identical to
> another Sony model.
>
> Besides buying scrap units off ebay and crossing your fingers, it seems
> rather doubtful anyone is stocking any kind of parts of those, including
> Sony.
>
> I'd guess it'll be harder finding NOS parts for those than beta ones at
> this
> point.
>
> -bruce
> bje@ripco.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony PSP 3003 plaything
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/576a529ee137b8b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 4:50 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arcing and sparking reported. 2x3mm piece of broken off spark erroded
phosphor bronze spring dropped out of the case, on opening. This came from a
2 way power socket of size that could probably take mains V but not 2A it
would seem, wired to the power-in connector and position under the LCD.
Between that and fuse? marking F6602 2.5A on the overlay, a large area of
smoke staining. Cleaning off most of the smoke, one 2 land SMD seems a bit
pitted and which lump is / was? the fuse , some spark erroded pcb trace,
anyone know of a decent pic of this area.
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/images/PSP_fuse/Td-Fuse.jpg
off
http://www.llamma.com/PSP/repair/PSP_fuse_repair.htm
seems a different model, the white block , the 2 wire connector to power
socket is the same
While at it ,the battery only measures mV , will it recover or some sort of
active sw/relay inside?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 11:50 am
From: "N_Cook"

not making contact with the battery , 1.26V , should be 3.6V

==============================================================================
TOPIC: general question: mainboard caps
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 5:34 am
From: Bob Villa

On Sep 24, 8:27 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

> The trick is to use the braid for desoldering and the super glue for
> adhesive purposes, and not get them mixed
.
You must mix epoxies! (Your trying to make me out to be an idiot,
after I was saying "Thanks")

>
> Try some epoxy made for plastics:
> <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-E...>
>
> As with all adhesives, the tricks are:
> 1. Make sure the adhesive is compatible. If the part flexes, you
> don't want a really brittle adhesive. If it's porous, you want
> something that has plenty of filler.
> 2. Clean the parts with whatever solvent you find useful. Make sure
> it evaporates completely and there's no water residue (such as what
> you'll get with alcohol) on the parts.
> 3. Use as thin a layer of glue as possible.
> 4. Use clamping pressure and let everything harden per instructions.
>

I was only speaking of SuperGlue (Cyanoacrylate). I follow the
directions for SG...but it doesn't co-operate. My favorites are epoxy
and silicone glue. (and I don't use either for soldering!)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 7:29 am
From: "Daniel Mandic"

Michael wrote:

> Went shopping... got a plunger for $11 at Fry's. Harbor Freight has a
> 180W solder gun for $10... remembered pointers here on high power for
> Pb-free solder... is the gun a good idea, or too hot?

Calculate with ~70-120$. The brand I leave to you...

40-60W, analog- or digital controlled with variation knob, tip-holder
and sponge-drawer.
Solder stations are not that expensive, indeed!

e.g.
http://www.ersa.com/art-0ana60-358-1910.html

mine :)

or
http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/catalog/48w-soldering-station-p-503.html

and
http://www.soldering-shop.co.uk/catalog/weller-whs40lt-soldering-station
-special-edition-p-49.html

and so many more...

Cheap things are not worth the money.

--
Daniel Mandic

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 11:17 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 05:34:30 -0700 (PDT), Bob Villa
<pheeh.zero@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Sep 24, 8:27 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
>> The trick is to use the braid for desoldering and the super glue for
>> adhesive purposes, and not get them mixed
>.
>You must mix epoxies! (Your trying to make me out to be an idiot,
>after I was saying "Thanks")

Nope. Just having fun twisting your words. I do that when I'm bored,
half asleep, lazy, or there's nothing worth watching on TV. Your
original comment:
I have never had luck with braided wire...but evidently is
works for some. (I never have any luck with super-glue either!)
hints that you're using super-glue for desoldering. I would
appologize, but I've consumed my daily ration of appologies today, so
you'll have to wait until tomorrow.

>> Try some epoxy made for plastics:
>> <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-E...>

>I was only speaking of SuperGlue (Cyanoacrylate). I follow the
>directions for SG...but it doesn't co-operate. My favorites are epoxy
>and silicone glue. (and I don't use either for soldering!)

Superglue doesn't bond well with many plastics and porous materials.
However, that's only part of the problem. The real problem is that
many materials are fairly flexible. Superglue is hard as a rock, and
will crack if the bond line is too thick. This limits its
applications to gluing things that fit together quite close. There
are some cynoacrylate adhesives (i.e. gel type) that claim to have
some filler, but I've never found that much of an improvement. Like
you, I've had dismal luck with superglue. Try the epoxy I suggested.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 5:01 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 23:31:42 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote:

>Ok thanks. Didn't buy it... decided to shop around a bit first.
>Thought if it is too high a power, just shut of power immediately once
>the solder melts... but ok, good idea, I'll pass on this.

I use a Weller TC201 soldering station. That's not because I like it
but because I once picked up a large collection of these from a
surplus sale that should keep me well stocked with parts and pieces
for the rest of my life. I wouldn't recommend this model because of
the rather marginal mechanical thermostat and the rather high price of
the current models. I have to clean the contacts on mine about once a
year.
<http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/WELLER-WTCPT-/96-030>

There are cheapo temperature controlled soldering stations on eBay for
$30 and up.
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200522416320>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280565323462>
Make sure you can buy replacement tips, replacement parts, and that
you can control the temperature of the tip. Also, that it's somewhere
between 50 and 90 watts. You can probably get away with 40 watts, but
not for soldering or desoldering anything big (such as big terminal
lugs and cables). My Weller TC201 is 60 watts, which is sometimes
inadequate.

If you have money, there's the Weller WD1002 for about $300.
<http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/solder/wd1000.htm>
Oh yes, you'll need a few different size irons, soldering pencils,
tips, and accessories:
<http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/pdf/wd1002.pdf>
Have your credit card and loan officer ready.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: See Hot Sexy Star * KAJOL * Sex Videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aa2d5c0480a221de?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 8:22 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fill Form And Get $500.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/568618d7b1ac9a13?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 9:16 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV turns off plugged into surge protector
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/755764111f5ddb2a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 9:44 am
From: westom

On Sep 24, 8:20 pm, Archon <Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Read up on MOV's

Quoting from a company promoting a scam makes no sense. You should
"Read up on MOVs" and read the spec numbers. Take your own advice.
How do hundreds of joules in a Belkin absorb surges that are hundreds
of thousands of joules? It doen't. Why do you say otherwise? Because
Belkin told you how to think?

All appliances already contain protection. A surge too small to
overwhelm appliance protection, instead, destroys the protector. That
gets the naive to buy more ineffective protectors and recommend them.
Protectors that work by absorbing energy are a scam. And fail to
promote excessively profitable sales. Take a $3 power strip. Add some
ten cent protector parts. Sell it for a profitable $7 in the grocery
store. Or hype myths to sell that same protector for $40 or $150 to
the most naive.

Or learn what MOVs do when in properly earthed protectors. How to
make a 'whole house' protector even more effective? Increase its
joules. Then it will absorb even *less* energy during the same
surge. Learn from a company promoting a scam. Or learn from MOV
datasheets or even learn from Wikipedia. Effective protectors (and
that means a 'less than 10 foot' connection to earth ground) increase
joules to absorb less energy. Then the protector dissipates hundreds
of thousands of joules harmlessly outside the building.. 'Whole house'
protectors are sold by more responsible companies. Belkin is not on
that list.

What is necessary to protect the Belkin or Jo's cheap power strip
protector? One 'whole house' protector properly earthed to single
point ground.

For about $1 per appliance, a homeowner can earth one 'whole house'
protector that protects everything - more than just the TV. And that
remains functional even after direct lightning strikes. Lightning is
typically 20,000 amps. So the minimal 'whole house' protector starts
at 50,000 amps. 'Whole house' protectors make trivial surges
(hundreds of joules) irrelevant. And earth direct lightning strikes
without damage to appliances or the protector. But that means you
learn about MOVs and the technology from science sources - not from a
company promoting a scam.

Provided for Jo are possible reasons why a TV might cut out and why
unplugging resets a lockout function. A cheap protector connected
that TV directly to AC mains. Made no electrical changes. Protector
remains inert - does nothing - until 120 volts exceeds its let-through
voltage: 330 volts. That cheap protector is not modifying
electricity. Something else (maybe mechanical) would explain TV power
off.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 10:24 am
From: Archon

On 9/25/2010 12:44 PM, westom wrote:
> On Sep 24, 8:20 pm, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Read up on MOV's
>

Snip crazed rant
>
> Provided for Jo are possible reasons why a TV might cut out and why
> unplugging resets a lockout function. A cheap protector connected
> that TV directly to AC mains. Made no electrical changes. Protector
> remains inert - does nothing - until 120 volts exceeds its let-through
> voltage: 330 volts. That cheap protector is not modifying
> electricity. Something else (maybe mechanical) would explain TV power
> off.

You seem to be missing the point.

OP wanted to know why surge power strip ceased to work

I had direct experience of same and explained

I did not and do not promote the effectiveness or usefulness of such
surge power strips.

You provided a total other argument as to why the TV did not work,
totally irrelevant to my post

As Michael says you seem to have a bit of a problem with surge
protectors, not my problem, I'm really not interested.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 11:38 am
From: westom

On Sep 25, 1:24 pm, Archon <Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> You seem to be missing the point.
> OP wanted to know whysurgepower strip ceased to work
> I had direct experience of same and explained

When a power strip surge protector circuit fails, it leaves the load
(TV) still connected to AC mains and the surge. It only disconnects
protector circuits to protect them; not the appliance.

Why did that TV not work when connected directly to the wall? Why
did that TV work when connected via a cheap power strip? Protector
circuit does nothing to change that electricity. Mechanical reasons
(ie a three prong plug holds firmly while a two prong plug does not)
would explain those symptoms. Why are you harping on some irrelevant
electrical functions in a protector that does nothing for Jo's
problem? A TV connected to a cheap protector connects directly to AC
mains. Why would the TV not black out? More likely reason is a
mechanical problem - ie a failing wall receptacle.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:07 pm
From: Archon

On 9/25/2010 2:38 PM, westom wrote:
> On Sep 25, 1:24 pm, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> You seem to be missing the point.
>> OP wanted to know whysurgepower strip ceased to work
>> I had direct experience of same and explained
>
> When a power strip surge protector circuit fails, it leaves the load
> (TV) still connected to AC mains and the surge. It only disconnects
> protector circuits to protect them; not the appliance.
>
> Why did that TV not work when connected directly to the wall? Why
> did that TV work when connected via a cheap power strip? Protector
> circuit does nothing to change that electricity. Mechanical reasons
> (ie a three prong plug holds firmly while a two prong plug does not)
> would explain those symptoms. Why are you harping on some irrelevant
> electrical functions in a protector that does nothing for Jo's
> problem? A TV connected to a cheap protector connects directly to AC
> mains. Why would the TV not black out? More likely reason is a
> mechanical problem - ie a failing wall receptacle.

Shit, must have been my wall socket as well..........darn it wasted all
my time, shoulda changed the wall socket......DUH, how stupid of me.

OP did not state TV did not work plugged directly into wall socket.
OP stated it worked on another power strip.

You really have issues dontcha.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:11 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I still think this is due to a defective breaker in the "bad" strip. Has the
OP gotten around to checking this?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Neead a pair of handle index parts for an HP 833A Spectrum Analyzer
mainframe.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/330ac96f90300ead?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 9:51 am
From: WallyWallWhackr

On Sep 23, 10:14 am, Don Lancaster <d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
> These attach to the carrying handle and let you adjust the position.
> Need both the handle part and the chassis part.
>
> The handle part is cylindrical and about an inch in diameter.
> The chassis part is a rectangular square with machined rings in it.
>
> Used condition fine.
>
> Also need a new lid if the price is reasonable.
>
>
> Many thanks,

Ebay has kits like that. Folks that insert equipment into rack
mounts and the like never use those kits and some of them are
smart enough to sell them. You can also buy it from HP as a kit,
but I assumed that you knew that already and posted looking for
a cheaper route. After spending not to many personal hours
looking though, you could have simply bought the HP kit.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:38 pm
From: Don Lancaster

On 9/25/2010 9:51 AM, WallyWallWhackr wrote:
> On Sep 23, 10:14 am, Don Lancaster<d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
>> These attach to the carrying handle and let you adjust the position.
>> Need both the handle part and the chassis part.
>>
>> The handle part is cylindrical and about an inch in diameter.
>> The chassis part is a rectangular square with machined rings in it.
>>
>> Used condition fine.
>>
>> Also need a new lid if the price is reasonable.
>>
>>
>> Many thanks,
>
>
> Ebay has kits like that. Folks that insert equipment into rack
> mounts and the like never use those kits and some of them are
> smart enough to sell them. You can also buy it from HP as a kit,
> but I assumed that you knew that already and posted looking for
> a cheaper route. After spending not to many personal hours
> looking though, you could have simply bought the HP kit.

Thanks for the tip, but this is the pivot for the tilt handle, and is
not involved in the rack mount stuff.

Also HP has discontinued all parts support for this item.
But possibly the same handle pivot is used on something newer.

--
Many thanks,

Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073
Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552
rss: http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don@tinaja.com

Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 3:23 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Don Lancaster wrote:
>
> On 9/25/2010 9:51 AM, WallyWallWhackr wrote:
> > On Sep 23, 10:14 am, Don Lancaster<d...@tinaja.com> wrote:
> >> These attach to the carrying handle and let you adjust the position.
> >> Need both the handle part and the chassis part.
> >>
> >> The handle part is cylindrical and about an inch in diameter.
> >> The chassis part is a rectangular square with machined rings in it.
> >>
> >> Used condition fine.
> >>
> >> Also need a new lid if the price is reasonable.
> >>
> >>
> >> Many thanks,
> >
> >
> > Ebay has kits like that. Folks that insert equipment into rack
> > mounts and the like never use those kits and some of them are
> > smart enough to sell them. You can also buy it from HP as a kit,
> > but I assumed that you knew that already and posted looking for
> > a cheaper route. After spending not to many personal hours
> > looking though, you could have simply bought the HP kit.
>
> Thanks for the tip, but this is the pivot for the tilt handle, and is
> not involved in the rack mount stuff.
>
> Also HP has discontinued all parts support for this item.
> But possibly the same handle pivot is used on something newer.

I wouldn't bet on it. They don't discontinue an item, until it is
either NLA from their supplier, or every piece of equipment that used it
has dropped off the end of long term support. I can find no reference
to HP 833A, except for this message. IS that the right model number?

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 11:26 am
From: "Ron D."

H:
There is fundamental physics behind the fix. I've fixed a toyota
clock, an
Hp calculator and bike speedometer that way. Circuitry must be CMOS.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: InovaBrasil
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/12c0ad6e99da7ce5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 12:28 pm
From: Rogerio

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incubadoras
6. 7º Seminário Internacional de Nanotecnologia, Sociedade e Meio
Ambiente
7. Ciências do Ambiente: conceitos básicos em ecologia e poluição
8. Esalq-USP: novo laboratório para pesquisas de genômica e
proteômica em agropecuária e bioenergia
9. UNESP: 40ª Semana de Estudos Geográficos
10. CGEE: Descentralização do fomento à ciência, tecnologia e
inovação no Brasil
11. Dora Fix Ventura e Rafael Linden premiados por contribuições em
Neurociências e Comportamento
12. Impa: vagas para pesquisador
13. Workshop sobre biodiversidade marinha: avanços recentes em
bioprospecção, biogeografia e filogeografia
14. MCT: lançamento de editais voltados a parques tecnológicos e
incubadoras de empresas
15. Poli/USP inaugura o Lassu -laboratório de sustentabilidade em
Tecnologia de Informação e Comunicação
16. UFS lança livro "Inovação Tecnológica na Cadeia Produtiva de
Petróleo, Gás e Energia" voltado para MPEs
17. USP: levantamento do perfil de médicos que tratam pacientes com
Aids no Estado de São Paulo
18. Finep: sai resultado da primeira etapa do edital de R$ 100
milhões do pré-sal
19. Inpe: vaga para coordenador geral do CPTEC
20. IPT: parceria com instituto sul-coreano Kitech
21. Aplicações terapêuticas para estudos de farmacogenômica ainda
são limitadas
22. Pesquisadores brasileiros desvendam via bioquímica pela qual o
hormônio melatonina modula a morte de células T
23. Prodoc: contempladas 26 novas propostas
24. UFRJ: redução dos danos da asma através da implantação de
células-tronco no pulmão
25. Brasil negocia entrada como membro associado do Cern
26. Capes e CNPq: Professores contestam critérios de avaliação da
produção científica
27. Fapeg: apoio à pesquisa em gestão, empreendedorismo e inovação
28. BID: Brasil lidera em inovação tecnológica na América Latina

Assine, apóie e divulgue o InovaBrasil.

Assinaturas : inovabrasil.assina@gmail.com
Twitter: @Inovabrasil2010

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Recovering deleted answering machine email
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d063e26958de9442?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 25 2010 1:05 pm
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Jesse Graybill" <jesse.graybill@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f63df212-3cef-44e2-b14c-5d12977d8366@q28g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
>I have an AT&T answering machine that I accidentally deleted a message
> on.
>
> AT&T has told me there's no official way to get the message back.
>
> Is there any way to pull this off the hardware directly?
>
> Thanks!

In short no... It is possible, but I can't say I know anyone willing to go
the time and expense to do so. We are probably talking $1000+ maybe more
since this is not exactly the standard recovery job..

So yes, if this message is worth it..

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