sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
* See Japanese Hot Girls First Night Sex Videos. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/49922c8dd30465ff?hl=en
* What values? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c9ff9388b00a649?hl=en
* Replacing reversible 180 degree rotating cassette tape heads - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/448260dcf39c39e7?hl=en

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TOPIC: Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5766cd3739b009?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 10:19 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 9/15/2010 1:03 PM Ron Weston spake thus:

>> There's a diecast metal front panel which covers the entire front
>> of the unit, with a deeply set grille for the speaker. Six screws
>> attach the metal panel to the plastic cabinet.
>>
>> The plastic cabinet is ONE PIECE, totally seamless, covering the
>> remaining 5 sides. So it's not a clamshell like most remotes or
>> similarly packaged electronics.
>
> Many years ago, I had to take apart a Philbrick K2-XA (those of you
> old enough to remember this op-amp will realize how long ago). I
> couldn't figure it out and called the factory. One of the engineers
> told me the plastic case came in two halves and they were glued
> together at the factory. The cases were so cheap that when a unit came
> back for repair the case was split with a chisel, and after the repair
> was complete a new case was glued on.

Heh; I'm totally not familiar with this device (almost old enough to be,
though), so when reading this I had visions of splitting open a 14-pin
DIP with a chisel, fixing it and gluing it back together.

Now *that* would be some repair.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 10:35 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <4c91a6a6$0$2405$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:

> Sure enough, removing the nut
> from the phone jack allowed the whole unit to slip rather easily out of
> the case

Sheesh. You "shoulda" known enough to do that, at least. Good grief.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 16 2010 12:22 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:c6eko.4111$vf.2909@newsfe18.ams2...
>
>
> "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message
> news:Rwcko.4403$FK1.2169@newsfe21.iad...
> > David Nebenzahl wrote:
> >
> >> On 9/15/2010 9:52 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:
> >>
> >>> This product appears to be the pro-audio equivalent of most remote
> >>> controls.
> >>>
> >>> I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote controls
are
> >>> generally held together with screws /and/ near-unreleasable tabs. I've
> >>> never
> >>> understood why both are needed.
> >>
> >>
> >> No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.
> >>
> >> There's a diecast metal front panel which covers the entire front of
the
> >> unit, with a deeply set grille for the speaker. Six screws attach the
> >> metal panel to the plastic cabinet.
> >>
> >> The plastic cabinet is ONE PIECE, totally seamless, covering the
> >> remaining 5 sides. So it's not a clamshell like most remotes or
similarly
> >> packaged electronics.
> >>
> >>
> > it most likely has a sealant between the front and plastic case to
> > prevent vibration at the seem, which is common with that type of
> > construction.. These things will stick like mild glue..
> >
> > With the screws half way, wrap the unit in a soft wrap of some kind
> > like foam rubber so you don't scratch it, rest it on a pillow and use
> > something like a piece of wood to hit lightly against the screws that
are
> > half way out.. The shock should push on the plastic behind and break
> > the bond!.
> >
> >
>
> Ha! I was just about to come in with exactly the same observation, and you
> beat me to it ! Quite a few of these powered speakers follow that general
> style of construction, and it's common for something like the self
adhesive
> draught excluder foam strip that you fit around door and window frames, to
> be used to form an airtight seal between the ally casting and the heavy
> plastic case. It's not uncommon for this stuff to stick like a bitch when
> it's been clamped up in that joint for a few years. If there genuinely is
> just the six screws holding the front to the case, then likely as not, the
> answer is just going to be brute force. Is there even the tiniest gap that
> you could perhaps get something like a wide wood chisel into to see if you
> can spring the plastic away from the metal a little ?
>
> Arfa
>

The allied problem (Mackie powered speakers particularly) is long lazy
thread screws jammed into the plastic close to the point of shearing if
undoing them. I made a heated long shaft screwdriver for this, soldering
iron heater slid over the shaft.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: See Japanese Hot Girls First Night Sex Videos.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/49922c8dd30465ff?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 10:19 pm
From: paypal cash

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TOPIC: What values?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c9ff9388b00a649?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 15 2010 11:36 pm
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

On Sep 15, 9:55 pm, I AM PROTEUS <proteus...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 15, 9:31 pm, "k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"
>
>
>
>
>
> <k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> > On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 15:57:16 -0700 (PDT), den <d...@densnet.com> wrote:
> > >On Sep 15, 1:39 pm, I AM PROTEUS <proteus...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >> On Sep 15, 3:40 pm, den <d...@densnet.com> wrote:
>
> > >> > Ignore the village idiot named below.
>
> > >> > > I AM PROTEUS
>
> > >> THAT WOULD BE YOU DENTRITE
>
> > >> YOU HAVE ALL BECOME IDIOTS
>
> > >> YOUR RESPONSES TO POSTS WOULD BE FUNNY IF THIS WAS A COMEDIC VENUE
> > >> BUT INSTEAD THEY ARE PATHETIC AND AMATUER LIKE
>
> > >> YOU WOULD BENEFIT FROM DISPLAYING SOME RESPECT
>
> > >> IAP
>
> > >Respect what?
> > >According to your profile you are an asshole no matter which newsgroup
> > >you crap in.
> > >Dave sparkyguy442 (the yahoo place)  asked a simple question, and it
> > >is possible that someone in this group can help him. That is (by the
> > >way)  what this group is about. Helping each other, NOT having to skip
> > >past your self worshiping drooling drivel. Crawl back under your slimy
> > >rock. Nobody will miss you. Trust me on this.  This nation was built
> > >on lab rats who kept on asking questions until answers were
> > >discovered. What nation do you germinate in?
>
> > Make everyone happy and killfile the troll.  All you're doing is playing into
> > his needs, and short-circuiting everyone else's killfile.
>
> GO BACK TO YOUR COCAINE PIPE KEITHTARD
> NOBODY CARES
> YOU TWO FACED BACK STABBING BASTARD
>
> IAP

I wish you all would get a life and stop messing with that machine
from hell.
I am Paul Hovnanian

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Replacing reversible 180 degree rotating cassette tape heads
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/448260dcf39c39e7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 16 2010 12:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Assuming a direct replacement is unobtanium. There is no standard for the
rotating mechanism and at leaast 3 headforms: normal , half width R/P plus
E, half width R/P. But there seems to be a standard of the heads, all I've
checked are set in 15mm Al cylinder with 11mm centres fixing holes. Anyone
ever swapped these integral with head ? if required to actually swap heads ,
what is the best way to unglue/unbond the resin/glue seating them in the Al,
heat? Maybe different front/rear-axis length. At least reseating replacement
head is not as critical as VCR head placement. Azimuth setting screw seems
to be the endstop for the rotating mechanism.

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