sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

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TOPIC: can i bring new life to this old VCR?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80bdaff85d3a3a6?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 12:30 am
From: "N_Cook"

nucleus <rose122550@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d857ce16-47cf-4074-b7a4-9360a60ea172@f25g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
good suggestion. where can i get such material for "cutting my own"?
i have substituted a rubber band for the belt, it has solved the
problem
functionally but it is not the right size or durometer and eventually
may
damage the bearing surfaces of the pulleys.

On Oct 12, 3:33 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Mike WB2MEP <michael.w.appenzel...@lmco.com> wrote in message
> Consider cutting your own as they tend to
> be quite large cross-section, square for round cross-section replacement
> does not usually matter.

Every time I passed bike / motorcycle/ car / lorry facility that changed
tyres I asked for any scrap inner tubes. Cut a working band from each a
dumped the rest in the garden shed. I now have a range of diameters from
about 1 inch to 10 inch. Often a slightly diagonal cut is possible for
intermediary diameters.
Details of "bean slicer" etc on my tips files off below, for reducing
thickness for flat bands etc.
No wasting time now on fruitless www hunts

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

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TOPIC: Transistor ID...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/206b5827a2414f1b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 1:34 am
From: tmcw

Thanks everyone for the info (and thanks for the post at badcaps as
well, PlainBill).

Have sourced a seller on eBay UK, so I'm good to try this one
component in the first instance. I got the monitor for nothing, so
it's worth a punt at least.

Cheers.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 11:07 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Fri, 15 Oct 2010 01:34:24 -0700 (PDT), tmcw <tmcwboards@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Thanks everyone for the info (and thanks for the post at badcaps as
>well, PlainBill).
>
>Have sourced a seller on eBay UK, so I'm good to try this one
>component in the first instance. I got the monitor for nothing, so
>it's worth a punt at least.
>
>Cheers.
This circuit is a Royer oscillator, infamous for failures in Benq,
Dell, and HP monitors. Always replace both transistors if one is bad.
Also resolder the inverter transformer, and check for shorted diodes.
The poly capacitor is also an item of concern - make sure it's
properly soldered.

Good luck

PlainBill

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 11:12 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Fri, 15 Oct 2010 01:34:24 -0700 (PDT), tmcw <tmcwboards@gmail.com>
wrote:

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: usb-parallel adapter for I/O
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ff6a0239a413d87?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 1:39 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Chris Johnson" <joemomma93@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:70ae6b53-0089-49aa-83e2-72fff2ab1c80@u31g2000pru.googlegroups.com...
> I have spent a few days hacking on a usb-parallel adapter based on a
> Prolific pl2305 chip trying to get a bit-bang 8 bit output device for
> linux... I'm very very close but I'm stuck. Its turned into more of a
> puzzle than it has a useful exercise but I'm determined to get it
> working.
>
> Here is what I have figured out about the adapter. Its only made to
> talk with printers so it requires handshaking. When you hook it up to
> the USB port, it shows up as /dev/usblp0. echoing a character to /
> dev/usblp0 always displays '00010000' on D7-D0 respectively.. thats
> a DLE(data link escape character).. some research told me that this
> is the token marking the beginning of the stream. A little reading
> and toying around and I found that once I get the DLE, if I ground
> [ACK] and [BUSY] my data will appear on D0-D7... bingo... but once I
> get my data I'm stuck and can't send any more data.. which is ok...
> I tried permanently grounding [ACK] and [BUSY] but it just freezes the
> adapter on init.. this thing is gonna take a real circuit
>
> So first I found/hacked a small program to send a soft reset to the
> device... this resets my data lines when they are set... works like
> a charm
>
> Circuit #1 -- first success
> There seems to be suffucient internal current limiting in the device
> to protect everything... I just need a way to momentarily ground
> [ACK] and [BUSY]. I used a 2n3904 transistor with base tied to [D4]
> (only high bit in DLE)... [ACK] and [BUSY] tied to collector, and
> ground tied to emitter... reset became ineffective and I could not
> connect to the USB port with the transistor installed... but once the
> hardware was past init and reset I could install the transistor and
> send a byte... and then bingo... my data appeared on the data lines.
>
> circuit #2 - first working circuit
> I figured that maybe someplace in init and reset there was a momentary
> state that tested the status lines or something and my transistor was
> screwing this up... I needed a delay to get past this. so I left the
> emitter and collector parts of my last circuit alone and modified the
> base... I put a 1M ohm resistor in series with the base and a 100uf
> cap from base to ground... it worked... but the trigger was looong
> with that huge RC value and I got alot of inconsistent behavior with
> the reset. so I started shrinking the C value until the device didn't
> work... 10uf was the lowest I could go and this put my delay under a
> second This is a buggy but useful circut for turning on lamps or
> fans or something... but not for anything useful. I want more...
>
> Circuit #3 - major improvement.. but still way too slow
> Someone suggested that the data lines might not be going under .7v so
> I should put a diode in series with the base... so I did... in fact
> I put 2... cleaned up all of my inconsistent reset problems.... so I
> started lowering the resistor value until the circuit stopped
> working... well... i completely removed the resistor and the circuit
> still works... and you can still see DLE flash momentarily before the
> data arrives(I have LED's on the data lines)... my delay doesn't seem
> to want to go away... I want this to go much faster... I tried
> lowering the cap value but it won't go any lower without causing
> problems with init and reset.
>
> so... does anyone have any idea what I can do to speed up the circuit
> and still have it work?

I think one of the first things I would do, would be to get rid of that
bipolar transistor, and replace it with a nice low RDS FET. You might then
be able to play some more with the drive circuitry to its gate to get a
quicker and sharper response at the device's drain. Might not make a jot of
difference, but for the tiny cost and effort involved, probably worth a try.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Q: Replacing the blu-ray Laser Diode of a PS3
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1cac3505fd4eb852?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 3:47 am
From: Nick Fielding

On Oct 14, 2:22 pm, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "Nick Fielding" <nfield...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:becf8e9c-b416-4941-adbd-db8076ff1c34@c16g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 14, 11:32 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> "Nick Fielding" <nfield...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >>news:febc414c-e9e6-4778-9464-0775fa5d7ea2@26g2000yqv.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> > On Oct 14, 8:48 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> >> "Nick Fielding" <nfield...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >> >>news:2c8a1cce-a1a7-4381-9f89-e2ca7a12bc02@s19g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> >> > Hello,
>
> >> >> > I'm trying to figure out how to replace a laser diode inside a ps3
> >> >> > blu-
> >> >> > ray drive. I think I now know the best way to extract the diode.
>
> >> >> > My problem is installing the new diode; I have read in several
> >> >> > places
> >> >> > that it's not simply a case of whacking the new one in, it has to be
> >> >> > aligned? Is this true, and if so, what would be the best way to go
> >> >> > about aligning it? How much is it likely to have to be rotated, i.e.
> >> >> > fractions of a degree or larger? I don't see that it can be rotated
> >> >> > that much as its degree of rotation would be limited by the flex
> >> >> > cable
> >> >> > it's soldered to.
>
> >> >> > Many thanks for any help!
> >> >> > Nick
>
> >> >> I've got a colleague who replaces many PS3 laser assemblies (I take it
> >> >> you
> >> >> are referring to the optical head which runs on the deck within the
> >> >> drive,
> >> >> not the *actual* laser diode ?) I will ask him what is necessary. Note
> >> >> also
> >> >> that I think I recall him saying that there are two if not three
> >> >> different
> >> >> variants, so make sure you get the right one. I have dismantled a
> >> >> number
> >> >> of
> >> >> these drives to remove discs from PS3s suffering the YLOD condition.
> >> >> Be
> >> >> careful when you replace the drive's top plate, as several bits of
> >> >> disc
> >> >> handling mech, have to engage correctly with other bits on the main
> >> >> body
> >> >> of
> >> >> the drive. Note also that once the top cover is removed, exposing the
> >> >> top
> >> >> mech plate of the drive, the disc clamp just lifts away. It is not
> >> >> retained
> >> >> by anything other than being 'sandwiched' between the mech plate and
> >> >> the
> >> >> cover. When reassembling, it just sits on top of the (should be at
> >> >> that
> >> >> point closed) lifter 'scissors'.
>
> >> >> Arfa
>
> >> > Hi Arfa,
>
> >> > Thankyou for taking the time to reply but it's the laser diode itself
> >> > I'm working on replacing. I can replace the laser assembly no problem,
> >> > however, it's not at all economical given the price of a laser
> >> > assembly so am trying to see if I can refurbish broken assemblies by
> >> > replacing the laser diode. :)
>
> >> > Thanks,
> >> > Nick
>
> >> In that case, I think you will really struggle to ever get it working
> >> again.
> >> The laser diode is an *extremely* precision fit in the optics, aligned at
> >> the factory in a precision jig. I once experimented with this on CD
> >> lasers,
> >> with just about zero success. Even if I got it to read again, the
> >> playability was poor. Ask anyone who has ever replaced a Pioneer laser
> >> just
> >> how difficult it is to align the diffraction grating. Gnat's bollock
> >> precision doesn't begin to describe how difficult it is to get it right,
> >> and
> >> that's Grand Canyon versus an alleyway in terms of relative data pit
> >> size.
>
> >> Given that CD optics are 'broken leg' technology, then DVD optics are in
> >> 'heart transplant' territory. Blu Ray, as PS3 lasers are, then fall into
> >> 'brain surgery' by comparison ... If the laser diode is even a
> >> vanishingly
> >> tiny amount off-axis, the beams will not pass through the centre of the
> >> lens, so the chances of them being reflected back from the disc correctly
> >> to
> >> hit the pickup diodes are, IMHO, poor at best. Bear in mind also, that it
> >> is
> >> not necessarily the laser diode that is at fault. Problems with laser
> >> assemblies can also be down to contaminated optics - i.e. nicotine on the
> >> critical angle mirror - a faulty pickup diode assembly, or faulty
> >> tracking /
> >> focus coils.
>
> >> I am surprised that you think that the cost of a replacement optical
> >> assembly warrants attempting to do it by this method. According to my
> >> oppo,
> >> the price of replacement optical heads is quite reasonable, and allows a
> >> good margin on the job ...
>
> >> You might like to look at Sam's stuff on these heads at
>
> >>http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/Blu-ray/site1/optics.html
>
> >> and also the material at
>
> >>http://www.optoiq.com/index/photonics-technologies-applications/lfw-d...
>
> >> which will give you a bit more of an insight into how much precision is
> >> involved in these assemblies.
>
> >> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > That does indeed look like it requires a lot of precision.
>
> > A lens assembly costs upwards of £25 whereas a replacement laser diode
> > for the 410aca blu-ray drive I can get for £7. Obviously replacing the
> > laser diode is a fiddly and by the looks of it impossible job;
> > although there are people out there who are managing to do it, maybe
> > they have their own jig or something.
>
> > I'll probably give it a go and fail.
>
> > Many Thanks,
> > Nick
>
> As for people claiming to be able to do this job, treat the claims with
> caution. There are many people offering 'guaranteed solutions' to for
> instance the YLOD problem, and indeed they do appear to work - at least
> initially. The trick is that they only seem to last long enough to dispose
> of the unit claiming it to be a 'worker' ...
>
> The minimum independant commercial repair cost for a PS3 is around 80 quid.
> My friend charges £120 to replace a laser, and he has no shortage of takers.
> Sony charge 180 quid for a service exchange PS3, and the cost of a new (pre
> latest slimline version) PS3 is around £300. Non-workers go on eBay for
> anything up to £90, and working examples for a lot more than that, so I
> think that there is potentially enough margin in laser replacement to
> warrant not having to mess around trying to repair the laser assembly -
> given that the bulk of the cost is the labour you will have already put in
> to strip the PS3 and its drive. and then remove the laser anyway to attempt
> the diode replacement ....
>
> Don't forget to be careful not to lose the little bent piece of metal that
> the Torx screw that holds the top cover goes into. Only valid for Mk1's of
> course, the screw going into a moulding on Mk2's and 3's.
>
> Good luck. If you do attempt it, do let us know (honestly !!) how it goes,
> as I am an interested party on PS3 repairs.
>
> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I'll definitely give it a go and let you know how it goes, probably
won't be for a little while yet as I have a number of PS3s which I
have waiting to be sold first.

Thanks both for your replies, I really should remember to use
newsgroups more as the people on here just seem much more intelligent
and I always get useful replies unlike on most web forums.

Thanks!
Nick

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 4:35 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i96ts6$el5$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>>> If the unit is well-designed, there should be no need to do anything
>>> more than solder it in place.
>
>>> However, it's likely you'll have to perform a drive-current adjustment.
>>> This might require a special test disk and/or test equipment. The
>>> service manual should fill you in.
>
>> Thanks, I've never really thought about it this way. The unit would
>> have to be designed in a way to make it quick to assemble and I think
>> it would slow things down far too much on the production line if they
>> had to align the laser on each unit. Also, the laser diode for this
>> drive is a Sony patent and is designed for this laser assembly only so
>> I'm guessing a drive-current adjustment won't be required either.
>
>
> Actually, I would go with what Arfa says. What I said was "common
> sense" --
> but probably isn't correct.
>
> With respect to production lines... It isn't how "difficult" it is to do
> something -- especially if the difficulty is reduced by the use of custom
> fixtures and test equipment -- but by how long it takes. One of the
> reasons
> "modern" electronic equipment is so much cheaper is a high level of
> integration (ie, fewer parts) combined with much less human labor. And if
> you can get that labor Really Cheap overseas, so much the better.
>
> I do, however, find it hard to believe that laser-diode installation
> requres
> extremely precise adjustments. This (to me) indicates poor product design.
> Of course, I'm not omniscient in such matters.
>
>

The laser diode itself (in my experience) has a flat, unfocused lens. The
focusing, grating, etc comes in later. I have successfully replaced laser
diodes but as Arfa says, the problem is often not the diode itself, but
other problems in the optic path.
One symptom of a failing laser diode (on conventional DVD players) seems to
be a situation where the unit plays OK for perhaps 15 minutes to 1/2 hour,
then starts skipping, pausing, pixelizing, etc. As the laser diode warms up,
emission declines, and soon the bit errors exceed the error correction
capability of the electronics. Less critical on an audio CD, but seems to
reach a fatal level pretty quickly in DVD players, and I assume BD players
may be even more critical - though I've yet to have much experience on
those.

Mark Z.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 10:47 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

I'm not sure that a requirement for precision of assembly, necessarily
indicates poor design. Let's take the example of video heads for a moment.
The ferrite head chips were mounted in brass carriers that were just screwed
to the head drum, so you might imagine that they would be replaceable.
However, such was the level of precision that was required to correctly
position these heads, it was not possible to do outside of the factory
environment, where I guess the job was made staggeringly easy by appropriate
positioning jigs, and automated assembly processes. There was actually one
company in the UK that did re-head drums, but the machine that they had to
do this was very expensive, and required a skilled operator. So, because
video head drums required this level of assembly precision, did that make
them a bad idea or a poor design ? I don't actually think so.

To be honest, I doubt whether the accuracy required in positioning the
actual laser diode comes close to that required for the pickup array, and
they manage to do that ok at the factory. As Mark Z suggests further down,
all of the critical optics follow the laser diode, and rotational accuracy
should not be an issue. Where I feel that you would have to be very careful,
is in getting the diode properly on-axis. If this is off by the tiniest
amount, the beam will not pass through the following optics at the places
that it is designed to. the error will become cumulative, the further you go
down the optical path. You might get away with this on a CD laser, but I'm
not sure that you would with a DVD laser. Given that the optics of a BluRay
laser are further complicated by the precision harmonic filter behind the
objective lens, any such error may well put the optical block's performance
below the required minimum for reliable operation.

I suppose that it could be argued that the tracking and / or focus servos
may be able to compensate, but these servos should be action-neutral, and if
the servos have to compensate for a mechanical error in the beam position,
by storing a non-neutral compensation value, then this compromises the
integrity of the whole system, by restricting the servo range that's left.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Discount Wholesale Miumiu Handbag <http://www.cntrade09.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e25ce4ee6f0c34c0?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 6:17 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: mis-connecting audio and composite video
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6df650a80c93f7fd?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 8:33 am
From: "Jerry G."

If you cross the audio with the video in an analog consumer type audio/
video product there will be no damage done. Make sure if you are
listening on an amplifier, you keep the volume control all the way
down when you do the connection.

If you put video in to an audio input there will be a loud audio buzz
from the video sync and composition. If the volume control is turned
up, there could be damage to the speakers if anything...

Once connected, slowely turn the volume control up. If you have a buzz
noise, then you know your connection is crossed! If you hear the
sound and see the pictures, then you know you guessed correctly.

Jerry G.

________________

On Oct 14, 10:51 am, Ulysses <ulysse...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> What happens (in terms of damage) if you connect an audio signal to a
> composite video input or composite video to an audio input?
>
> I have an old Sony camcorder that has single-channel audio + composite
> video out from a 3.5 mm (1/8") jack. The "correct" cable has a 3.5 mm
> plug one one end and a black RCA plug (audio) and a yellow RCA plug
> (composite video) on the other ... and costs $17 or more.
>
> I have a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA (red and black) audio cable. I can't see
> why this cable wouldn't work, but I don't know if the black on my cable
> corresponds to the black connector on the "correct" cable or to the
> yellow connector. So it's possible that I may connect the audio signal
> to the composite video input of my monitor. Is there a risk of damage
> to the monitor?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Icom IC-7000 VHF/UHF Transceiver "Adjustment Mode"
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a6f06853ecffe7c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 8:37 am
From: "Jerry G."

Do a web search for iCom. They will answer your questions...

I would suspect a problem in the final output, or in the drivers. If
you have the service manual, follow through by verifying the supply
voltages to the final and modulator sections. Also, verify the
carrier amplitude.

I don't know the unit, but also check in the user book to see if there
are any settings for reduced power output.

I am assuming that all the standard procedures of antenna match and
etc has been done...

Jerry G.

On Oct 13, 1:10 pm, jaugust...@verizon.net wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I recently bought an Icom IC-7000 transceiver from the estate of a
> "silent key". The UHF power output, although the radio is set to
> "100 percent power" (all bands), puts out about 50 percent on the
> UHF band. UHF watt meter indicates around 18 watts when it
> should be 35 watts. Note: Other bands are just fine at 100 percent.
>
> I downloaded the service manual fromwww.mods.dkand followed
> the procedure to enter the "Adjustment" mode. However, I can not
> change any settings beyond the "Total Gain (430)! My intention
> was to increase the "100 percent" value, which is beyond the "Total Gain"
> adjustments, to see if the power goes up. Note: I am using a proper dummy
> load.
>
> I couldn't find in the service manual or service manual addendum
> any information regarding this issue.
>
> By any chance, did you encounter the same situation?
>
> Thank You in Advance, John N3AOF
>
> PS, Remove "ine" from my email address

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 9:05 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 15 Oct 2010 08:37:50 -0700, Jerry G. wrote:

> Do a web search for iCom. They will answer your questions...
>
> I would suspect a problem in the final output, or in the drivers. If you
> have the service manual, follow through by verifying the supply voltages
> to the final and modulator sections. Also, verify the carrier
> amplitude.
>
> I don't know the unit, but also check in the user book to see if there
> are any settings for reduced power output.
>
> I am assuming that all the standard procedures of antenna match and etc
> has been done...

1. Make sure the SWR on the UHF antenna is 1.5:1 or below. If ok it could
be the hybrid output device. Not knowing the 7000 I would assume that it
would have a separate output device for UHF. However I would verify the
power input to the device and its voltage and AGC circuits before deeming
it bad.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Driveway sensor, model 917-1, mfg. around 1993 by "Detector Systems"
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/502c70dec1b2d85e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 8:58 am
From: nesesu

On Oct 14, 8:37 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Oct 14, 7:48 pm, JeffM <jef...@email.com> wrote:
>
> > >klem kedidelhopper posted 3 times:
> > >>Would I be better off with building and burying
> > >>their smaller coil with more turns or[...]
>
> > nesesu wrote:
> > >Yes, Lenny, all three posting came through okay.
>
> > Heh. Google Groups' quasi-annual takedown for maintenance.
> > Roughly 10AM - 3PM today.
>
> > Impatient posters using a Web interface to Usenet
> > should poll ANOTHER one of those *before* posting *again*.
> > (Google is NOT the only game in town.)
> > Here are some with reasonable latency:http://www.electronicskb.com/Default.aspxhttp://www.electrondepot.com/
>
> Neil
> When I said "every time" I wasn't thinking of motorcycles. My wife's
> business which is run out of part of our home is a gift shop catering
> primarily to women. The shop is off the main road. So considering the
> clientele we're really not expecting too many bikes in here, and if
> the occaisional one does come through and does not get detected then
> its not the end of the world. No, I was referring to the mass of a
> typical automobilie. The issue is that there are sometimes long
> periods of time when there is no business. she doesn't want to have to
> stay down there waiting for a customer to show up. This sensor will
> allow her to turn out the lights and be in some other part of the
> house until the alarm sounds. She can then run downstairs, turn on the
> lights and be "open for business" And so far with the loop laying on
> the ground its worked every time. You were right on the money with
> your idea of three turns and a 4 X 8 footprint which is the 72 feet
> the book talks about. I don't have an impedance bridge.so I can't
> directly measure inductance, however the instructions did mention an
> operating frequency of between 30 and 60 KHZ. I suppose that I could
> look at this with the scope, determine exactly what it is and then
> figure out a way to determine inductance if I really want to. But for
> the time being I'm going to rewind the coil for the 6 turns the
> instructions call for.
> So now I need to ask for your advice again. Last year I rewired my
> well. I pulled up 175 feet of the old wire and replaced it. The
> conductors in that wire were continuous however the insulation was
> scuffed and scraped and in some cases down to bare copper and no
> longer servicable for well application. However I kept it around to
> use for projects, such as this one..Well wire if you've ever worked
> with it is typically three twisted conductors made from 14AWG. This
> wire is apparently impervious to moisture because it runs right down
> the well casing throught the water to the submersible pump. My present
> test coil is made from some of that old wire.unwound to single srand.
> The scuffed parts were taped up in places for purposes of this test
> but it is not in good enough condition to put directly into the
> ground. I have a gravel driveway and ultimately I will need to bury
> the final coil amidst this abrasive material.. I could get some more
> of this well wire or the instructions say that you can directly bury
> THHN or a similar type of wire. My concern though is the dirt, stones,
> sand, etc. which would be in constant cantact and abrading this wire.
> I think that I would like to encase it somehow. ideally in PVC. Then
> have some kind of an underground junction box to connect my sheilded
> cable to. Do you have any ideas as to how to do this? Lenny

Lenny, I think that the 'well pump wire' is stranded type TWU . In any
case it generally has a much thicker insulation intended exactly to
withstand high abrasion situations such as sliding in and out of well
casings or being directly buried in the ground. It would not survive
being shallow buried in a gravel drive for very long. If you can come
up with the needed length of normal TW or XLPE or the newer Nylon
coated wire, then I would suggest you buy some 1/2" PVC conduit,
couplings, glue, 4 90 degree sweep bends and an outlet box with two
1/2" hubs on one end and one hub on the other end as well as a blank
cover for the box. You then form the PVC pipe into the rectangular
coil form and pull in the wire around the loop the required 5 or 6
times and splice it to the shielded lead in in the box.
Please email me directly with your email address and I will send you a
sketch of how to form the pipe.
Naturally the pipe should be surrounded with coarse sand to pad it
from the stones, but since you should be staying within 3" - 4" of the
surface, you don't have a lot of margin for that.

Neil

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TOPIC: dead microwave
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==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 10:56 am
From: "james"

Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD

When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any buttons.
No lights, no fan, no sound.
It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
this.

It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard. There's
a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets dangling on
wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of connectors. Could
the grease cause the connectors to fail?

I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers, lights,
fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the controller board
is where I want to start debugging since it houses the LCD display and hooks
up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get the controller board's
schematic?

BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by a
do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this device
should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get personal?

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 11:35 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 15 Oct 2010 10:56:04 -0700, james wrote:

> Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD
>
> When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any
> buttons. No lights, no fan, no sound.
> It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
> this.

Uh Huh.

> It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard.
> There's a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets
> dangling on wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of
> connectors. Could the grease cause the connectors to fail?

Yep

> I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
> Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers,
> lights, fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the
> controller board is where I want to start debugging since it houses the
> LCD display and hooks up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get
> the controller board's schematic?

Controllers are usually replaced not serviced.

> BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by
> a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this
> device should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get
> personal?

Because your health depends on you knowing what you are doing. What price
are you willing to see yourself and others possibly pay for a more
friendly message?

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 11:37 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
> serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
> if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
> person". But why get personal?

"I don't get no respect!"

Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
other electronic components.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 11:44 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Oct 15, 1:37 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
> > serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
> > if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
> > person". But why get personal?
>
> "I don't get no respect!"
>
> Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
> have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
> other electronic components.

I would suggest some naptha and a soft brush to dissolve the grease
and clean the board. Do NOT use soap and /or water!!!! After
everything looks clean and nice, let it sit overnoght before you plug
it back in. That gives time for things to dry out reasonably well.

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 1:24 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:3c5b4d13-bdf2-45ef-99db-1f38bd82a785@l20g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> On Oct 15, 1:37 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> > BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be
>> > serviced by a do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand
>> > if it says "this device should be serviced only by a qualified
>> > person". But why get personal?
>>
>> "I don't get no respect!"
>>
>> Why not start by simply cleaning up everything? The only thing you might
>> have to worry about is electrostatic discharge damaging the controller or
>> other electronic components.
>
> I would suggest some naptha and a soft brush to dissolve the grease
> and clean the board. Do NOT use soap and /or water!!!! After
> everything looks clean and nice, let it sit overnoght before you plug
> it back in. That gives time for things to dry out reasonably well.

Surely, the most fundamental first move is to take a meter to the power
supply, and see if there is at least some supply to the system control micro
etc ? The fact that it's covered in grease may well be neither here nor
there as far as the fault goes. Oils and greases are not known for being
particularly conductive or corrosive. Dead is a positive problem, and one to
which basic faultfinding techniques should be first applied, before going
off on an 'if-then-maybe' exercise ...

Arfa

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 1:51 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Surely, the most fundamental first move is to take a meter to the power
> supply, and see if there is at least some supply to the system control
> micro etc ? The fact that it's covered in grease may well be neither here
> nor there as far as the fault goes. Oils and greases are not known for
> being particularly conductive or corrosive. Dead is a positive problem,
> and one to which basic faultfinding techniques should be first applied,
> before going off on an 'if-then-maybe' exercise ...

I'd normally agree, but the fact the unit /slowly/ declined suggests that
something other than a voltage loss is going on.

Of course, it takes just a few seconds to check the voltages. Couldn't hurt.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 15 2010 3:31 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

james <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Frigidaire, Professional Series PLMV169DCD
>
> When plugged in, no clock is displayed. Nothing. No response to any buttons.
> No lights, no fan, no sound.
> It failed gradually. Starting from a few buttons that didn't work, then
> this.
>
> It is a combo microwave/range hood. I opened up the panel/keyboard. There's
> a layer of grease on the circult board, and some grease droplets dangling on
> wires and connectors. Some greenish(!) grease drips out of connectors. Could
> the grease cause the connectors to fail?
>
> I found on the internet a parts and schematic PDF for this model.
> Unfortunately, the schematic shows everything (relays, transformers, lights,
> fuses, magnetron, motors) but the controller board. Yet the controller board
> is where I want to start debugging since it houses the LCD display and hooks
> up to the keypad. Does anyone know where to get the controller board's
> schematic?
>
> BTW, there's a note inside saying "this device should not be serviced by a
> do-it-yourself repair person". I could understand if it says "this device
> should be serviced only by a qualified person". But why get personal?

That is an odd warning. Microwaves should just state "you will die if you
open this, even if it's unplugged.

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