sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Need base diagram for 140NB4/CT496 Sony CRT - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a476e0a9943c56d7?hl=en
* Schematic for Nutone IK-25 intercom - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0c147f8059c5a160?hl=en
* RCA P60928 PTK195 Chassis no power - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e7ca98063672b91?hl=en

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TOPIC: Need base diagram for 140NB4/CT496 Sony CRT
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a476e0a9943c56d7?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 2 2010 5:00 pm
From: "Brenda Ann"

I need the above base diagram so that I can convert a Sony 5-307W. The set
has a 140CB4 CRT in it, which is dead. I have a brand new CT496 CRT, which
has a different base (at least the heater pins are 1 and 3, rather than 3
and 4 on the 140CB4).

TIA

Brenda Ann

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TOPIC: Schematic for Nutone IK-25 intercom
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0c147f8059c5a160?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 2 2010 6:06 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Does anyone have a schematic for the Nutone IK-25 door
> intercom? I'd like the indoor station to indoor station to be
> non-private, just like it is to the door station. Any ideas?

Stupid suggestion, coming from someone who is hardly an expert on
intercoms...

Open the units and carefully examine the switch wiring. It's possible you'll
be able to figure out the difference between private and non-private.

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TOPIC: RCA P60928 PTK195 Chassis no power
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e7ca98063672b91?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 2 2010 7:15 pm
From: John-Del

On Oct 2, 7:05 pm, "Tmachci...@aol.com" <Tmachci...@aol.com> wrote:
> OK I have even put an amp meter on the line comming in and  I am
> getting around 300 milli amps when pluged in but no change at all when
> I hit the remote. I get a slight chirp when I first plug it in but no
> change again with the remote. Thanks Ted

It's unlikely the micro is bad unless you caught some lightning. Of
the two, the eeprom is more likely to have failed, but are uncommon in
the 195. If the eeprom is bad, you will need to confirm it with a
scope. If the Vcc and reset voltages are good at the micro, but
there is no response from the system control, there are a couple of
possibilities. The easy one is to unplug the front panel connector
from the top of the light box where the IR is located. If the TV
powers up from the remote, you've got bad tact switches on the front
control board. You can either leave it unplugged, or replace all the
tacts. If it doesn't respond, get a bright light and look for any
evidence of coolant leakage around the micro, eeprom, and LV
regulators. If you have coolant leakage in any area, it will need to
be removed (time consuming).

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