sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Electro Voice Sx 300 speaker - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43e2c955119ea885?hl=en
* Faulty ALL Function on Comcast Remote Control - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63a8d7f0e7826834?hl=en
* Self-Repair Manifesto - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/047741f126542a73?hl=en
* bose wave radio - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07c0515245d66709?hl=en
* ViewSonic N3252W - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d8e80b609d7d2df?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electro Voice Sx 300 speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43e2c955119ea885?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 12:38 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.11.19.19.12.56@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:05:36 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2010.11.19.16.41.59@lmao.lol.lol...
> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 13:01:19 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> > Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant
> >> > level compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and
> >> > soft contact glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the
> >> > frame. Epoxy had squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid
> >> > epoxy up to about 10 mm long by about 2mm that had later broken off
> >> > and was rattling inside. So gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As
> >> > there is always bits of sub-mm aluminium oxide etc , but greater than
> >> > air filter mesh size , inside speakers, that don't seem to make any
> >> > humanly observed rattling interference noises , anyone any idea what
> >> > is the size that becomes intrusive ?. In the core that is , not
> >> > staples etc on the outside. RoHS stickers all over and all sorts of
> >> > other problems in the cab but not PbF isssues (this year)
> >>
> >> You want to know the size of a particle that could cause a rub between
> >> the VC and the magnet structure core? Is so I can't imagine it would
> >> take much knowing the tolerances around the VC are measured in the tens
> >> of thousands of an inch. I've seen several of these type and guitar
> >> types get re coned living near an individual who did re-coning for a
> >> living. Some of the shims used while gluing especially in a studio
> >> monitor speaker like a Tannoy I saw get re-coned looked to be around
> >> 1.5 mil or slighlty more.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
> >
> >
> >
> > These bits were rattling around in the interior space not passing
> > through the air filter gauze or getting graunched in the vc gap.
> > Demounted spicer and cone and for "reconing" this one I used 3 slivers
> > of credit card, hardly thou/mil sorts of dimensions.
>
> I guess it's up to the person doing the re-coning as to what tolerances
> they prefer.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

You need a jam fit, to coin a term. Not a clearance or sliding fit as you
need the cone to stay at a pushed in distance, say 5mm below natural level.
To allow the glue to have a closing pressure that is a once only application
of force. Not removing hands and then placing a weight inside the cone. So
the circular VC former goes slightly triangular with 3 credit card slivers
or slightly squared with 4 (excessive deformation/ holding force for this
one)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Faulty ALL Function on Comcast Remote Control
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63a8d7f0e7826834?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 7:49 am
From: jeff_wisnia

William Sommerwerck wrote:

> I'm going to make a wild suggestion... weak battery in the remote control.
> The voltage is "sagging" by the time the sequencer gets to the TV power
> signal.
>
> I no longer have one of these, so I can't check -- but are you supposed to
> hold down the button until everything comes on?
>
> Finally... It might be that the unit is "busted". Of course, since the
> operation is under microprocessor control, this seems unlikely.
>
>

Thanks for waking my tired brain.

That "thwock" you may have heard wherever you are was ME giving myself a
"dope slap" to my forehead.

It was just run down batteries in the remote. I didn't think of that
because all the other functions in the remote were working just as they
should.

I checked the olde batteries with my little dry cell load tester and
they both read down in the "discharged" range.

Jeff (Now known as the red faced EE)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Self-Repair Manifesto
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/047741f126542a73?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 10:14 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:27:22 -0500, "Charles"
<charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
>"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
>news:a93ce69ku7pejisgqh9jgincgf0hsqdhto@4ax.com...
>
>On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 18:28:29 -0500, "Charles"
><charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
>>news:2pu6e6l0vdlmqaebkhtvt9mvho5fpjo7tt@4ax.com...
>>
>>On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 00:34:59 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
>><wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Nearly anything man-made can be repaired.
>>
>>Yes, but it might not be worth fixing, especially if a replacement is
>>low cost. I constantly run into problems spending inordinate amounts
>>of time fixing some trivial device. Sure, it can be fixed, but I
>>can't build a business on such repairs.
>>
>>Are you not contradicting yourself here?
>
>No. I'm a compulsive repairman. Everything I see needs to be fixed.
>If I can't fix it, it needs to be re-engineered. Everything can be
>designed or built better. Spending my time on such efforts is not
>particular profitable, but neither are most other hobbies. If I
>wanted to get rich quick, it wouldn't be in the repair biz (unless I
>was fixing something really expensive and exotic).

>Jeff, sorry but, you REALLY lost me. Who wrote "Yes, but it might be not
>worth fixing ...."

It would be helpful if you would explain where I was contradicting
myself. I don't see it.

I take the ewaste and recyling problem seriously, but in this
newsgroup, I'm largely preaching to those that already believe.
However, in all honesty, I had never bothered to consider repair as an
alternative to recycling, primarily because the cost of repair of
often far more than the cost of recycling.

>You seem to be one who is facing a new reality that is very distasteful and
>is thrashing about both internally and externally (your rants here).
>
>Again, sorry, not trying to bust your crotch as we actually agree as to the
>fundamental issue (which is the disregard for waste and recycling issues
>caused by modern manufacturing methods). I also like fixing things and do
>it when I can and am mostly frustrated these days.
>
>However, in the USA at least, the latest and the greatest has become the
>mantra for most folks with bucks to spend. Heck, they send stuff to the
>recycling center that works just fine because they want the new bells and
>whistles. Sigh!

Last week, I went to the local recycler to unload some eJunk and drag
home some more. On top of the pile was a nearly new HP DeskJet 8500
all-in-one printer, that looked like it had been removed from the
shipping box, run perhaps once or twice, and then tossed. It's been
recently replaced by the 8600. The owner probably wanted the latest
greatest and just tossed it. I left it because I have no customer
that needs an injet printer.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 10:15 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:27:22 -0500, "Charles"
> <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
> >news:a93ce69ku7pejisgqh9jgincgf0hsqdhto@4ax.com...
> >
> >On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 18:28:29 -0500, "Charles"
> ><charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> >>"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
> >>news:2pu6e6l0vdlmqaebkhtvt9mvho5fpjo7tt@4ax.com...
> >>
> >>On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 00:34:59 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
> >><wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>>Nearly anything man-made can be repaired.
> >>
> >>Yes, but it might not be worth fixing, especially if a replacement is
> >>low cost. I constantly run into problems spending inordinate amounts
> >>of time fixing some trivial device. Sure, it can be fixed, but I
> >>can't build a business on such repairs.
> >>
> >>Are you not contradicting yourself here?
> >
> >No. I'm a compulsive repairman. Everything I see needs to be fixed.
> >If I can't fix it, it needs to be re-engineered. Everything can be
> >designed or built better. Spending my time on such efforts is not
> >particular profitable, but neither are most other hobbies. If I
> >wanted to get rich quick, it wouldn't be in the repair biz (unless I
> >was fixing something really expensive and exotic).
>
> >Jeff, sorry but, you REALLY lost me. Who wrote "Yes, but it might be not
> >worth fixing ...."
>
> It would be helpful if you would explain where I was contradicting
> myself. I don't see it.
>
> I take the ewaste and recyling problem seriously, but in this
> newsgroup, I'm largely preaching to those that already believe.
> However, in all honesty, I had never bothered to consider repair as an
> alternative to recycling, primarily because the cost of repair of
> often far more than the cost of recycling.
>
> >You seem to be one who is facing a new reality that is very distasteful and
> >is thrashing about both internally and externally (your rants here).
> >
> >Again, sorry, not trying to bust your crotch as we actually agree as to the
> >fundamental issue (which is the disregard for waste and recycling issues
> >caused by modern manufacturing methods). I also like fixing things and do
> >it when I can and am mostly frustrated these days.
> >
> >However, in the USA at least, the latest and the greatest has become the
> >mantra for most folks with bucks to spend. Heck, they send stuff to the
> >recycling center that works just fine because they want the new bells and
> >whistles. Sigh!
>
> Last week, I went to the local recycler to unload some eJunk and drag
> home some more. On top of the pile was a nearly new HP DeskJet 8500
> all-in-one printer, that looked like it had been removed from the
> shipping box, run perhaps once or twice, and then tossed. It's been
> recently replaced by the 8600. The owner probably wanted the latest
> greatest and just tossed it. I left it because I have no customer
> that needs an injet printer.

Isn't that a wireless/ethernet/USB model?

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 10:28 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

One reason people toss out working inkjet printers is that a new one costs
only a little more than the replacement ink.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 10:48 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 13:15:34 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>> Last week, I went to the local recycler to unload some eJunk and drag
>> home some more. On top of the pile was a nearly new HP DeskJet 8500
>> all-in-one printer, that looked like it had been removed from the
>> shipping box, run perhaps once or twice, and then tossed. It's been
>> recently replaced by the 8600. The owner probably wanted the latest
>> greatest and just tossed it. I left it because I have no customer
>> that needs an injet printer.

> Isn't that a wireless/ethernet/USB model?

Yes. I have a customer with one. It was kinda tricky to setup via
wireless but I managed (without reading the instructions). OfficeJet
Pro 8500.
<http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/printer/Officejet/1/storefronts/CB022A%2523B1H>
I didn't think of taking a photo. Sorry. The power supply had been
separated and thrown into a different bin by the staff, so that would
have been a problem. Still, it was almost new with, no scratches, no
damage, no signs of wear, no signs of use, etc. What a waste...

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 11:08 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> One reason people toss out working inkjet printers is that a new one costs
> only a little more than the replacement ink.

Not all of them. That 8500 retails for $400.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 11:08 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 13:15:34 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >> Last week, I went to the local recycler to unload some eJunk and drag
> >> home some more. On top of the pile was a nearly new HP DeskJet 8500
> >> all-in-one printer, that looked like it had been removed from the
> >> shipping box, run perhaps once or twice, and then tossed. It's been
> >> recently replaced by the 8600. The owner probably wanted the latest
> >> greatest and just tossed it. I left it because I have no customer
> >> that needs an injet printer.
>
> > Isn't that a wireless/ethernet/USB model?
>
> Yes. I have a customer with one. It was kinda tricky to setup via
> wireless but I managed (without reading the instructions). OfficeJet
> Pro 8500.
> <http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/printer/Officejet/1/storefronts/CB022A%2523B1H>
> I didn't think of taking a photo. Sorry. The power supply had been
> separated and thrown into a different bin by the staff, so that would
> have been a problem. Still, it was almost new with, no scratches, no
> damage, no signs of wear, no signs of use, etc. What a waste...

That is a $400 printer.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: bose wave radio
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/07c0515245d66709?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 12:48 pm
From: forever_2017_at_yahoo_dot_com@foo.com (sarastephen)

sarastephen had written this in response to
http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/bose-wave-radio-21913-.htm :

harold wrote:

i always read people complaining about Bose devices and still wonder why
they are still using them, I no longer like Bose because of their problems
and usually require additional devices.

-------------------------------------
Sara

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: ViewSonic N3252W
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d8e80b609d7d2df?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 8:43 pm
From: playedataritoday

I was given this TV today to try and repair. I know the power
supplies on this model have been a big problem, but before I buy a
replacement I wanted to run the symptoms by you guys.

It was working for a while on tuner mode and then got stuck on one of
the inputs and would not allow for it to be changed. It was used like
this for a few weeks and then got stuck running in the test pattern.
Every 5 seconds or so a different color screen would show up and then
sometimes the full color bar test pattern. I took the back off and
took the following measurements at power supply connectors both when
the unit is on and when it is in standby.

CN102
On (Standby)
1 - 12.09 (0)
2 - 12.09 (0)
3 - GND
4 - GND
5 - GND
6 - GND
7 - 5.11 (5.11)
8 - 5.11 (5.11)
9 - 5.11 (5.11)
10 - 3.47 (.062)
11 - 3.57 (.627)
12 - 4.87 (.006)

CN101
On (Standby)
1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - GND
4 - GND
5 - 23.75 (0)
6 - 23.75 (0)
7 - 23.75 (0)
8 - 23.75 (0)
9 - 3.57 (.627)
10 - 4.87 (.006)

I removed the power supply completely and can see no evidence of
faulty capacitors and the voltages all seem to be in range. My only
concerns are the On/Standby voltage being 3.47V, although I don't have
the schematics so I am not sure what it should be. I might have
expected something closer to 5V. If that is the expected value I may
try to strap an external 5V supply on and run as a test.

At one point using the top switches I was able to change the input
mode to VGA, and I am now driving it with a netbook and it gives me a
beautiful picture, I just am unable to change it to anything else. An
the OSD window for "Main:" stays on the screen. The voltages at P701
(top side switch board) are as follows:
On (Standby)
Orange - 0 (3.77)
Blue - 3.74 (3.77)
Red - 3.74 (3.77)
Green - 3.74 (3.77)
Yellow - 3.74 (3.77)
Black - 0 (0)
Brown - 3.74 (3.77)

Has anyone seen similar symptoms with their set? I have no problem
dropping money on the replacement supply, I just want some confidence
the problem isn't with the motherboard before I invest anything more
than my time. No post that I could find described symptoms similar to
what I am seeing. Also does anyone have the schematics or repair
manual for this set? If so please send me copies via email.

All help is appreciated.

Stephen
playedataritoday@gmail.com

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 9:44 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Nov 20, 8:43 pm, playedataritoday <playedatarito...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I was given this TV today to try and repair.  I know the power
> supplies on this model have been a big problem, but before I buy a
> replacement I wanted to run the symptoms by you guys.
>
> It was working for a while on tuner mode and then got stuck on one of
> the inputs and would not allow for it to be changed.  It was used like
> this for a few weeks and then got stuck running in the test pattern.
> Every 5 seconds or so a different color screen would show up and then
> sometimes the full color bar test pattern.  I took the back off and
> took the following measurements at power supply connectors both when
> the unit is on and when it is in standby.
>
> CN102
>       On  (Standby)
> 1 - 12.09 (0)
> 2 - 12.09 (0)
> 3 - GND
> 4 - GND
> 5 - GND
> 6 - GND
> 7 - 5.11 (5.11)
> 8 - 5.11 (5.11)
> 9 - 5.11 (5.11)
> 10 - 3.47 (.062)
> 11 - 3.57 (.627)
> 12 - 4.87 (.006)
>
> CN101
>      On (Standby)
> 1 - GND
> 2 - GND
> 3 - GND
> 4 - GND
> 5 - 23.75 (0)
> 6 - 23.75 (0)
> 7 - 23.75 (0)
> 8 - 23.75 (0)
> 9 - 3.57 (.627)
> 10 - 4.87 (.006)
>
> I removed the power supply completely and can see no evidence of
> faulty capacitors and the voltages all seem to be in range.  My only
> concerns are the On/Standby voltage being 3.47V, although I don't have
> the schematics so I am not sure what it should be.  I might have
> expected something closer to 5V.  If that is the expected value I may
> try to strap an external 5V supply on and run as a test.
>
> At one point using the top switches I was able to change the input
> mode to VGA, and I am now driving it with a netbook and it gives me a
> beautiful picture, I just am unable to change it to anything else. An
> the OSD window for "Main:" stays on the screen.  The voltages at P701
> (top side switch board) are as follows:
>          On (Standby)
> Orange - 0 (3.77)
> Blue - 3.74 (3.77)
> Red - 3.74 (3.77)
> Green - 3.74 (3.77)
> Yellow - 3.74 (3.77)
> Black - 0 (0)
> Brown - 3.74 (3.77)
>
> Has anyone seen similar symptoms with their set?  I have no problem
> dropping money on the replacement supply, I just want some confidence
> the problem isn't with the motherboard before I invest anything more
> than my time.  No post that I could find described symptoms similar to
> what I am seeing.  Also does anyone have the schematics or repair
> manual for this set?  If so please send me copies via email.
>
> All help is appreciated.
>
> Stephen
> playedatarito...@gmail.com

I bet you're wrong on the capacitor issue. I replace so many caps at
work I'm the 'cap guy' that gets most stuff working again for next to
nothing. Hints: If a cap looks bad it probably is but if it looks OK
it may actually be bad. Look for a brown 'mist' around a capacitor.
Those must be removed, the acid mist cleaned off a a new cap
installed. It will often have a 'fishy' odor. Without the mist it may
still be bad and look fine. The high voltage (300-500Volt) caps rarely
fail. The 22 -100uF low voltage caps frequently fail and the worst are
surface mount 'lytics. I replace LOTS of those. Many times a 'lytic
will have a ceramic in parallel. This might look OK on the tester
(Cheapest I know of is the MAT Electronics MUL-3333 at $50) as the
meter is seeing the ceramic but the 'lytic is bad. Only way to verify
is to remove the cap and test it by itself. It will read better while
its warm and as it cools will get worse. Rule of thumb: if there are a
lot of the same value and some are bad, replace them all. Look for
highest ripple current in the Digikey (and others) catalog. Often it
will be a Panasonic FM or FC or Nichicon HL HM HN, HZ for through
hole. I like Panasonic FK or FP for surface mount.

G²

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