sci.electronics.repair - 19 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: FULLY HOT ENTERTAINMENT
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 1:43 am
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TOPIC: XXX HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 2:11 am
From: SAILAJA LOVES U

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electro Voice Sx 300 speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43e2c955119ea885?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 5:01 am
From: "N_Cook"

Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant level
compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and soft contact
glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the frame. Epoxy had
squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid epoxy up to about 10 mm
long by about 2mm that had later broken off and was rattling inside. So
gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As there is always bits of sub-mm
aluminium oxide etc , but greater than air filter mesh size , inside
speakers, that don't seem to make any humanly observed rattling
interference noises , anyone any idea what is the size that becomes
intrusive ?. In the core that is , not staples etc on the outside. RoHS
stickers all over and all sorts of other problems in the cab but not PbF
isssues (this year)

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 8:42 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 13:01:19 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

> Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant
> level compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and soft
> contact glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the frame.
> Epoxy had squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid epoxy up to
> about 10 mm long by about 2mm that had later broken off and was rattling
> inside. So gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As there is always bits
> of sub-mm aluminium oxide etc , but greater than air filter mesh size ,
> inside speakers, that don't seem to make any humanly observed rattling
> interference noises , anyone any idea what is the size that becomes
> intrusive ?. In the core that is , not staples etc on the outside. RoHS
> stickers all over and all sorts of other problems in the cab but not PbF
> isssues (this year)

You want to know the size of a particle that could cause a rub between
the VC and the magnet structure core? Is so I can't imagine it would take
much knowing the tolerances around the VC are measured in the tens of
thousands of an inch. I've seen several of these type and guitar types
get re coned living near an individual who did re-coning for a living.
Some of the shims used while gluing especially in a studio monitor
speaker like a Tannoy I saw get re-coned looked to be around 1.5 mil or
slighlty more.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 9:05 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.11.19.16.41.59@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 13:01:19 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant
> > level compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and soft
> > contact glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the frame.
> > Epoxy had squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid epoxy up to
> > about 10 mm long by about 2mm that had later broken off and was rattling
> > inside. So gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As there is always bits
> > of sub-mm aluminium oxide etc , but greater than air filter mesh size ,
> > inside speakers, that don't seem to make any humanly observed rattling
> > interference noises , anyone any idea what is the size that becomes
> > intrusive ?. In the core that is , not staples etc on the outside. RoHS
> > stickers all over and all sorts of other problems in the cab but not PbF
> > isssues (this year)
>
> You want to know the size of a particle that could cause a rub between
> the VC and the magnet structure core? Is so I can't imagine it would take
> much knowing the tolerances around the VC are measured in the tens of
> thousands of an inch. I've seen several of these type and guitar types
> get re coned living near an individual who did re-coning for a living.
> Some of the shims used while gluing especially in a studio monitor
> speaker like a Tannoy I saw get re-coned looked to be around 1.5 mil or
> slighlty more.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

These bits were rattling around in the interior space not passing through
the air filter gauze or getting graunched in the vc gap. Demounted spicer
and cone and for "reconing" this one I used 3 slivers of credit card, hardly
thou/mil sorts of dimensions.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 11:13 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:05:36 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.11.19.16.41.59@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 13:01:19 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant
>> > level compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and
>> > soft contact glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the
>> > frame. Epoxy had squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid
>> > epoxy up to about 10 mm long by about 2mm that had later broken off
>> > and was rattling inside. So gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As
>> > there is always bits of sub-mm aluminium oxide etc , but greater than
>> > air filter mesh size , inside speakers, that don't seem to make any
>> > humanly observed rattling interference noises , anyone any idea what
>> > is the size that becomes intrusive ?. In the core that is , not
>> > staples etc on the outside. RoHS stickers all over and all sorts of
>> > other problems in the cab but not PbF isssues (this year)
>>
>> You want to know the size of a particle that could cause a rub between
>> the VC and the magnet structure core? Is so I can't imagine it would
>> take much knowing the tolerances around the VC are measured in the tens
>> of thousands of an inch. I've seen several of these type and guitar
>> types get re coned living near an individual who did re-coning for a
>> living. Some of the shims used while gluing especially in a studio
>> monitor speaker like a Tannoy I saw get re-coned looked to be around
>> 1.5 mil or slighlty more.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
>
>
> These bits were rattling around in the interior space not passing
> through the air filter gauze or getting graunched in the vc gap.
> Demounted spicer and cone and for "reconing" this one I used 3 slivers
> of credit card, hardly thou/mil sorts of dimensions.

I guess it's up to the person doing the re-coning as to what tolerances
they prefer.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 20 2010 12:38 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.11.19.19.12.56@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 17:05:36 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2010.11.19.16.41.59@lmao.lol.lol...
> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 13:01:19 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> > Bass driver giving off a noise like frying bacon of fairly constant
> >> > level compared to varying audio level. They had used epoxy glue and
> >> > soft contact glue at 2 different stages of fixing the spider to the
> >> > frame. Epoxy had squeeged into the interior forming beads of solid
> >> > epoxy up to about 10 mm long by about 2mm that had later broken off
> >> > and was rattling inside. So gummy/soft glues only is the lesson . As
> >> > there is always bits of sub-mm aluminium oxide etc , but greater than
> >> > air filter mesh size , inside speakers, that don't seem to make any
> >> > humanly observed rattling interference noises , anyone any idea what
> >> > is the size that becomes intrusive ?. In the core that is , not
> >> > staples etc on the outside. RoHS stickers all over and all sorts of
> >> > other problems in the cab but not PbF isssues (this year)
> >>
> >> You want to know the size of a particle that could cause a rub between
> >> the VC and the magnet structure core? Is so I can't imagine it would
> >> take much knowing the tolerances around the VC are measured in the tens
> >> of thousands of an inch. I've seen several of these type and guitar
> >> types get re coned living near an individual who did re-coning for a
> >> living. Some of the shims used while gluing especially in a studio
> >> monitor speaker like a Tannoy I saw get re-coned looked to be around
> >> 1.5 mil or slighlty more.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
> >
> >
> >
> > These bits were rattling around in the interior space not passing
> > through the air filter gauze or getting graunched in the vc gap.
> > Demounted spicer and cone and for "reconing" this one I used 3 slivers
> > of credit card, hardly thou/mil sorts of dimensions.
>
> I guess it's up to the person doing the re-coning as to what tolerances
> they prefer.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

You need a jam fit, to coin a term. Not a clearance or sliding fit as you
need the cone to stay at a pushed in distance, say 5mm below natural level.
To allow the glue to have a closing pressure that is a once only application
of force. Not removing hands and then placing a weight inside the cone. So
the circular VC former goes slightly triangular with 3 credit card slivers
or slightly squared with 4 (excessive deformation/ holding force for this
one)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Shure M105E phono cartridge - person bashing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4f8b232551a3984f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 5:48 am
From: Chuck

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 08:29:19 -0500, Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>
wrote:

>Hello again all,
>
> When I posted my request, I was trying to save a customer some money on
>a repair that was getting expensive.
>
> ONE person actually sent me an e-mail with some useful info on a web
>site that had a similar cartridge at a reasonable price, and thanks to
>him for that.
>
> I had NO INTENTIONS of starting a thread on bashing an individual.
>
> IF YOU CAN'T STAND POSTINGS FROM A CERTAIN INDIVIDUAL (including me)
>DON'T COMPLAIN ABOUT IT. Instead, either skip over posts from that
>person, or learn to use your browsers' features and block posts from
>that person.
>
> While I do find some people attempt repairs that I would not, I also
>find that sometimes they have something useful to say, or have found an
>reasonable way to repair something that I thought could not be repaired
>for less than the cost of replacement.
>
>Regards,
>Tim Schwartz
>Bristol Electronics
>
>
>P.S. I had my brands wrong. The cartridges I used to see open windings
>in all the time was Micro Acoustics, not Audio Technica. My apologies
>to Audio Technica. (My memory is getting sort of foggy.)
>
>Original post:
>
>Hello all,
>
>
> I've got a customer's turntable here with a Shure M105E p-mount
>cartridge in it. The stylus is fine, but the cartridge itself has an
>open winding. I've seen this in Audio Technica and Grado cartridges
>over the years, but never before in a Shure. Any chance you've got a
>good body without a stylus you'd part with? (In the USA preferred. I'll
>gladly pay shipping.)
>
>Thanks!
>Tim Schwartz
>Bristol Electronics
Tim,

Micro Acoustics cartridges didn't have coils. It was actually Ortofon
cartridges and whatever name they gave their cheap line of cartridges.
Those cartridges, whose name I can't recall, usually had an open coil
within 3 years. Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ASUS laptop won't charge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/373b0342a210b145?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 7:02 am
From: D Yuniskis

Hi Tim,

Tim Downie wrote:
> I've got a friend's ASUS M5200 laptop that I've offered to look at.
>
> It works fine when connected to it's power supply but dies instantly if
> the power is removed. There are only ever two lights on on the front of
> the laptop, one for the mains supply and one for the hard drive. The
> battery light never comes on. The power meter in Windows does identify
> the battery and shows it as having zero charge.
>
> I've tried battery recalibration and a new battery has also been tried

When the "new" battery was installed in the machine, did the battery
light come on? What did Windows report re: the battery's condition?
(was it really a *new*, CHARGED battery that you used?)

> but neither helps, it still refuses to charge. More in hope than in
> expectation I've opened it up to have a look around but there's nothing
> obvious to see.

Bents pins (or pins that are stuck "retracted" in the battery
connector)?

> I'm guessing something has gone wrong with the internal charging circuitry.
>
> Is there anything else I can do or have I come to the end of repair
> options (short of motherboard replacement)?

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TOPIC: Faulty ALL Function on Comcast Remote Control
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63a8d7f0e7826834?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 12:41 pm
From: jeff_wisnia

The "ALL" button on my Comcast "Custom 3 Device Remote Control" has
stopped working properly and only switches the cable box on and off, but
no longer controls the TV.

It's not a "synchronization" problem, I know how to fix that.

When I press the ALL button, only the "Cable" button lights, and it
blinks 3 times.

I have to press the "TV" button and then the "Power" button to turn the
TV on or off.

I can also turn the cable box on or off by pressing the "Cable" button
and then the "Power" button.

I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual describing this
faulty action of the "ALL" button.

Thanks guys,

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 1:01 pm
From: whit3rd

On Nov 19, 12:41 pm, jeff_wisnia <jwisniaDumpThisP...@conversent.net>
wrote:
> The "ALL" button on my Comcast "Custom 3 Device Remote Control" has
> stopped working properly and only switches the cable box on and off, but
> no longer controls the TV.

> I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual describing this
> faulty action of the "ALL" button.

It's a bad manual (not guessing, I've been there).
The Comcast help menu might have instructions for doing the
programming of the remote for the function you want; that function
has to be turned OFF if you want to turn the TV off and let
your TiVO record during the night.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 1:12 pm
From: jeff_wisnia

whit3rd wrote:

> On Nov 19, 12:41 pm, jeff_wisnia <jwisniaDumpThisP...@conversent.net>
> wrote:
>
>>The "ALL" button on my Comcast "Custom 3 Device Remote Control" has
>>stopped working properly and only switches the cable box on and off, but
>>no longer controls the TV.
>
>
>>I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual describing this
>>faulty action of the "ALL" button.
>
>
> It's a bad manual (not guessing, I've been there).
> The Comcast help menu might have instructions for doing the
> programming of the remote for the function you want; that function
> has to be turned OFF if you want to turn the TV off and let
> your TiVO record during the night.

Couldn't find anything on the Comcast web pages after about 20 minutes
of sesaching. I tried a live chat with a tech named Cheryl which left me
feeling that if God had wanted women to understand technology he would
have given them brains instead of boobs. (Just kidding ladies.)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 1:41 pm
From: whit3rd

On Nov 19, 1:12 pm, jeff_wisnia <jwisniaDumpThisP...@conversent.net>
wrote:

> >>I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual ...

> Couldn't find anything on the Comcast web pages

If it's digital cable, look at the onscreen menu features; that's
where the techs put the most helpful stuff, they only update the
web site as an afterthought.

The manual, might be the remote manufacturer's data; the
remote you got, has locked-in Comcast firmware settings
that only the local feed source knows about.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 2:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I'm going to make a wild suggestion... weak battery in the remote control.
The voltage is "sagging" by the time the sequencer gets to the TV power
signal.

I no longer have one of these, so I can't check -- but are you supposed to
hold down the button until everything comes on?

Finally... It might be that the unit is "busted". Of course, since the
operation is under microprocessor control, this seems unlikely.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 3:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

jeff_wisnia wrote:
>
> The "ALL" button on my Comcast "Custom 3 Device Remote Control" has
> stopped working properly and only switches the cable box on and off, but
> no longer controls the TV.
>
> It's not a "synchronization" problem, I know how to fix that.
>
> When I press the ALL button, only the "Cable" button lights, and it
> blinks 3 times.
>
> I have to press the "TV" button and then the "Power" button to turn the
> TV on or off.
>
> I can also turn the cable box on or off by pressing the "Cable" button
> and then the "Power" button.
>
> I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual describing this
> faulty action of the "ALL" button.

Let them fix the problem, since you're paying them for the service.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Self-Repair Manifesto
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/047741f126542a73?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 2:27 pm
From: "Charles"

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:a93ce69ku7pejisgqh9jgincgf0hsqdhto@4ax.com...

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 18:28:29 -0500, "Charles"
<charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:

>"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
>news:2pu6e6l0vdlmqaebkhtvt9mvho5fpjo7tt@4ax.com...
>
>On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 00:34:59 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
><wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Nearly anything man-made can be repaired.
>
>Yes, but it might not be worth fixing, especially if a replacement is
>low cost. I constantly run into problems spending inordinate amounts
>of time fixing some trivial device. Sure, it can be fixed, but I
>can't build a business on such repairs.
>
>Are you not contradicting yourself here?

No. I'm a compulsive repairman. Everything I see needs to be fixed.
If I can't fix it, it needs to be re-engineered. Everything can be
designed or built better. Spending my time on such efforts is not
particular profitable, but neither are most other hobbies. If I
wanted to get rich quick, it wouldn't be in the repair biz (unless I
was fixing something really expensive and exotic).

Jeff, sorry but, you REALLY lost me. Who wrote "Yes, but it might be not
worth fixing ...."

You seem to be one who is facing a new reality that is very distasteful and
is thrashing about both internally and externally (your rants here).

Again, sorry, not trying to bust your crotch as we actually agree as to the
fundamental issue (which is the disregard for waste and recycling issues
caused by modern manufacturing methods). I also like fixing things and do
it when I can and am mostly frustrated these days.

However, in the USA at least, the latest and the greatest has become the
mantra for most folks with bucks to spend. Heck, they send stuff to the
recycling center that works just fine because they want the new bells and
whistles. Sigh!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: US reserves of rare earth elements assessed for first time
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f72df51cfb78807?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 19 2010 10:48 pm
From: sunitha frnd

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