sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 16 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCF ART300
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/382fcef3b03fbc3f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 12:52 am
From: Ron

On 26/11/2010 02:12, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
> news:moCdned0vcf6x3PRnZ2dnUVZ7vmdnZ2d@bt.com...
>> Ahaha belay that, I just found that the values are printed on the pcb
>> below the heatsink.
>
> Belay, Ron ? Are you a naval man ? :-)
>
> Arfa

Actually, I do have a bit of a thing for a nicely formed belly button -
on a woman of course.

Ron (Salty)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: paypal payment ADIDAS SHOES paypal cheap sale.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c89a114bd0322bc3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 12:57 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Output transformer ambiguity
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d4e3e6c8232295?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 1:05 am
From: "N_Cook"

Steve Sousa <etsteve@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4cee6eaa$0$61360$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:icijdo$d1a$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > If the 900 ohm one was shot then it implies some shorted turns that is
> > unlikely to change with heat and/or vibration
> >
> >
>
> Hello:
>
> the amp is a grundig como e/st, you can see a picture and the schematic at
> http://meuble.radio.free.fr/stereo_console/grundig/index.html
>
> i haven't removed the transformers because they are soldered to the
chassis!
> (the metal bracket is soldered to the chassis *and* the pcb)
>

What is the result of hot-air heating and knocking the transformers with
copper/hide hammer or simulating with hammer and wood block while monitoring
the ohms?
Certainly don't power up with new valve without using a variac and probably
filament bulb telltales(acting as fuse if serious problem) in place , if you
cannot establish which Tx is wonky.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LOgitech X-220 Beeps
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5e67fe5daff5de0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 1:05 am
From: Frank-Stefan Müller

Hi,
my good (?) old Logitech X-220 PC speakers start to whistle very loud as
soon as I power them up.

Any idea or schematic?

Thanks

Frank

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 7:59 am
From: nesesu

On Nov 26, 1:05 am, Frank-Stefan Müller <muel...@mrt.uka.de> wrote:
> Hi,
> my good (?) old Logitech X-220 PC speakers start to whistle very loud as
> soon as I power them up.
>
> Any idea or schematic?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank

Unplug them from the computer and see if the problem is in the speaker
amplifier or the sound chip circuit. If in the speaker amp, turn the
volume control down and see if the whistle goes up and down. If not,
look into the power supply for the speaker amp. If it does vary, look
at the power supply as well as the caps in the amplifier circuit.

Neil S.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 12:26 pm
From: Nancy Norelli

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 10:05:51 +0100, Frank-Stefan Müller wrote:

> Hi,
> my good (?) old Logitech X-220 PC speakers start to whistle very loud as
> soon as I power them up.
>
> Any idea or schematic?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank

Cell phone.
--
Don't FUCK with me. I'm tuff. And stupid but don't dare FUCK with me.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 2:18 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 07:59:45 -0800 (PST), nesesu wrote:
> On Nov 26, 1:05�am, Frank-Stefan M�ller <muel...@mrt.uka.de> wrote:
>>
>> my good (?) old Logitech X-220 PC speakers start to whistle very loud as
>> soon as I power them up.
>>
>> Any idea or schematic?
>
> Unplug them from the computer and see if the problem is in the speaker
> amplifier or the sound chip circuit. If in the speaker amp, turn the
> volume control down and see if the whistle goes up and down. If not,
> look into the power supply for the speaker amp. If it does vary, look
> at the power supply as well as the caps in the amplifier circuit.

As well, look for some new, "noisy" electronic gee-gaw that you've
recently installed nearby.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Linksys BEFSX41 Router
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a86d5f8be1d77191?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 2:03 am
From: baron

Meat Plow Inscribed thus:

> On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 23:07:19 +0000, Baron wrote:
>
>> Meat Plow Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:59:54 +0000, baron wrote:
>>>
>>>> Meat Plow Inscribed thus:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 20:21:57 +0000, Baron wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Meat Plow Inscribed thus:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 14:41:29 +0000, root wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The router doesn't see the WAN connection. Is there any hope
>>>>>>>> that it is fixable?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Unfortunately that is quite a common problem. Often spikes on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> incoming line kill the circuit. You may find if your lucky that
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> voltage arrester just behind the WAN socket is SC. Otherwise its
>>>>>> just usable as switch.
>>>>>
>>>>> What's your source for the common problem? The WAN connection
>>>>> usually ends up on the Ethernet connection of a DSL or Cable modem
>>>>> which itself should be protected. This can be verified by
>>>>> attaching the PC directly to the WAN connection and trying to ping
>>>>> the modem's default IP address for HTTP port configuration or
>>>>> trying to go to the modem config page at that address.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> My bad ! :-(
>>>> I forget that here in the UK the router normally connects directly
>>>> to the phone line and over there the modem is often a separate
>>>> device. Sorry !
>>>
>>> The telco here offers a combo switch/router/dsl modem. I have one
>>> around here made by 2wire.
>>>
>>>> Although the protection circuitry behind the socket is still worth
>>>> checking.
>>>
>>> If the OP is adventurous yes. However it may not be worth the money
>>> to replace parts and if the protection has crowbarred the WAN port
>>> running the router without protection could result in future damage
>>> to the transceiver.
>>>
>>>
>> True ! Though spark gaps and TVS diodes are commonly used for
>> protection.
>>
>> Oddly I got one to fix just after my last post. TVS diode dead short.
>> Lift the diode and it works again. New diode needed. Problem ! House
>> coded. A PKE170 is the same physical size and should do.
>
> I've never had to or been called to repair these things. Last damaged
> Ethernet device I encountered was a 24 port Cisco Catalyst series
> managed 10/100 switch that had suffered a proximity lightning strike
> knocking out several ports. It was replaced, no way I would tackle a
> repair.
>

Generally speaking they aren't worth the time to take the box apart let
alone fault finding on them. But as part of a larger job it can become
worth the effort to do so ! It also marks you out as someone who can
be trusted to do a job properly rather than box shift or bodge. In any
case its all part of a continuous learning process.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: older motherboard with intel chipset
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e3adf44e483f1ab?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 2:07 am
From: baron

Meat Plow Inscribed thus:

> On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 22:07:15 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:
>
>> Backtracking.. first of all, I never expect used equipment to operate
>> perfectly, much less when I encounter something that was discarded
>> (found in a dump/ster).
>>
>> I dunno if the BB store label was an indication that the unit was a
>> customer return that couldn't be/wasn't economically practical to try
>> to
>> figue out, or that it was just a BB store product that some customer
>> threw away.
>>
>> When used equipment does turn out to be fully functional (as it often
>> does), that's just a bonus.
>>
>> Someone had already decided that it was trash, so expectations of it
>> working properly could be unrealistic, you see.
>>
>> Whe I mentioned a linux Live CD, I was referring to the linux OS not
>> being installed, just run Live as thay will often do, from the CD
>> drive (as almost all m-bds now boot from the CD).
>> A HDD isn't even required.
>>
>> Some linux Live versions will be more favorable with certain types of
>> system hardware.
>> Several years ago, I bought about 12 different flavors of linux OSs,
>> most of 'em Live CDs (cheap, from from an eBay'er). I know they can
>> be downloaded for "free" from numerous websites but I was on dialup
>> service at the time.
>>
>> Try a couple/few different linux Live CDs (no HDD or any other
>> unneeded stuff), if there are problems with all attempts, there's
>> very likely something wrong with the m-bd.
>
> I can recommend Mandriva Live as a Mandriva user for 5 years.
> Currently using Mandriva 2010 on a quad core AMD PhenomII 955
> processor on an Asus Mainboard. Install was flawless. All drivers were
> on the install disk and additional software packages galore available
> for free download.
>

I run "Open SuSE 11.1" and thoroughly endorse the above comment.
I have clients that run completely diskless machines except for a CD rom
drive and a live CD.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MILEY CYRUS Full NUDE Videos ( FIRST Time on INTERNET )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c19583c3e7c956a9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 2:29 am
From: hollywood

I Have Hidden the Videos in an IMAGE...... CLICK on the IMAGE which is
BELOW the SEARCH BOX which is on the RIGHT SIDE of the website
http://infoaboutweb.euro.st

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ANGELINA JOLIE New SEX Tape Released ( UNSEEN Video Ever Seen ) Erotic
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dd1798560777bbda?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 3:58 am
From: ali kaseri

I Have Hidden the Videos in an IMAGE...... CLICK on the IMAGE which is
BELOW the SEARCH BOX which is on the RIGHT SIDE of the website
http://infoaboutweb.euro.st

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Scarlett Johansson Scandals
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1089a19dee6c4519?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 9:14 am
From: hollywood

I Have Hidden the Videos in an IMAGE...... CLICK on the IMAGE which is
BELOW the SEARCH BOX which is on the RIGHT SIDE of the website
http://infoaboutweb.euro.st

==============================================================================
TOPIC: The Chronicles of NARNIA 3 Got HACKED Before the Release of the DATE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fa4105bca5b200df?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 10:57 am
From: hari kumar

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FILM Got HACKED Before the RELEASE of the DATE .movie news and
community gathering site. ... Narnia Faith To promote The Voyage of
the Dawn Treader for Christian audiences, the film has partnered with
Grace . But The FILM Got HACKED .

TO Watch or DOWNLOAD .... Some Premises I have HIDDEN the Movie in an
IMAGE .... CLICK on the IMAGE which is below the SEARCH BAR .. which
is on the Right Side of the website http://infoaboutweb.euro.st

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How do I know if an amp goes both ways?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f02a76c8c0ab701c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 4:26 pm
From: mm

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 04:04:18 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> How do I know if a tv signal amplifier** will also transmit IR signals
>> or maybe they are converted IR signals in the opposite direction?
>
>> **Like is used to go from a VCR to an distant analog TV, especially
>> if there were signal-weakening splitters for other tvs in between.
>
>Rather than answering your question directly, I'm going to ask you to think
>about what sort of hardware would be required to do that. You can then
>figure it out for yourself, and you'll have learned something in the
>process.

Well, I understand your desire to make this a learning experience for
me**.

I did think about it quite a bit, even before calling the company, and
I couldn't figure out how to do it, which is why I thought his answer
would be No, nothing else works. It occured to me but didn't seem
likely that there were two amps going in the opposite direction, one
for the RF and one for the IR

**Back in 1964, my cousin had turned 80 and he gave me his '50
Oldsmobile. At the same time, he also gave me a 1amp battery
charger. The battery went dead every night, and I had to borrow my
mother's car to get to work. After trying one night (from 5:30 to
10:30 to fix it) I tried to find someplace that had the wiring
diagram, and eventually I did, but he wouldn't lend it to me, or even
show it to me.*** I don't know if that was his real reason, but he
said I needed to do it the hard way and learn something. I spent 4
nights in a row unscrewing connectors and putting them back. For test
equipment, I had only a 110volt lightbulb and an ice pick, to pierce
insulation. One or two days in, I found what I thought was a short
between two wires and was very excited, and maybe it was that I
disconnecting both of them, but the battery still went dead. I
finally figured out that the wires weren't "shorted" but they had a
shunt between them which was connectded to the ammeter, in parallel.
The shunt had low resistance that my 110v lightbulb didn't show. This
may be when I decided I had to have a wiring diagram or I'd never fix
it.

There were no quick connectors then and not very many fuses, so I had
to unscrew wires, and I'd keep disconnnecting things until the test
light showed no continuity. After 4 or 5 disconnects, I got that, and
I figuered the last thing I had disconnected was the problem, but I'd
reconnect it and there would still be no short, and I'd reconnect the
previous thing, and the previous thing and I'd be at the top when
there was a short again. So I'd start disconnecting, probably in a
different order, and still it would take 4 or 5 disconnects to get rid
of the short, and back up again, to the top, and down and back up.

Finally I found the problem. I guess at every critical point, I had
opened the

***(My recollection is that I wanted to make a copy and bring it right
back, although now I can't imagine how I intended to make a copy in
1964. Maybe I was just going to draw a copy.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 4:37 pm
From: mm

On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 11:42:37 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> I'd guess that you'd need to buy an IR repeating system,
>> and amplifier, which were specifically designed to work
>> together in this way. Most off-the-shelf distribution amps
>> are unidirectional and probably do not have any sort of
>> duplexing "bypass" circuit in their design.
>
>You can buy a "Powermid" transponder system for $27 postpaid on eBay. It's
>RF, so you're probably limited to 30' or 40' feet, but that might be enough.
>
>http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=powermid&_sacat=See-All-Categories
>
>I use mine to control my SACD player, which sits to the side of and behind
>the listening position, where the remote can't directly reach it.

Sorry it took so long to reply. I was going to try other things and
then give a full reply.

In principle, you've convinced me. I got graduallly sucked into the
plan in the original post here. I definitely need the 5425 or
something like it, but then I saw for 30 dollars more I could get the
5525 with the IR. But I have to buy a wall plate for each room, for
about 36 dollars each, and maybe a set top box for 42 dollars each, or
at least a sensor is extra too, and I have the kitchen, the basement,
the office, and the bathroom. But I thought maybe I should live large
for once.

I also just noticed that these ChannelPlus devices convert stereo to
monaural. I don't care much, but I care a little. Hmmm. I checked
and the simple Belkin modulator I'm using now, channel 3 or 4 only,
also puts out monaural.

What I used for a few years, years ago, the Leapfrom IR-45. It's
little and sticks on the front of the remote control, and the only
receiver is not on the TV but near the VCR or DVR, so one is enough
for everywhere in the house. I stopped using it for a few years, and
now the range isn't enough. It reaches to within 7 feet of where I sit
(but probably won't work in the basement or first floor at all, even
though it used to) I replaced the 5-year old little 6-volt battery
with a new one, and the range was no better. I have been buying these
from ebay, so I'd have one for every floor. I have to try another
receiver but i'm dubious.

EVen when holding the remote in my hand, I've noticed that the Philips
DVDR is more picky than the VCR I had. I have to point it just right
to get the DVDR to do anything. So I'm going to get an emitter that
will plug into the Leapfrog receiver. Maybe that will do it.

Anyhow, if this doesn't work I'll get a Powermid like you like. Even
if I have to buy 4 sets for 108 dollars, it will be less money and
less effort than the ChannelPlus.

Right now, Jeopardy that I was recording is over and the DVDR is about
to turn off**, and I have to go to the bedroom to stop that. ...Too
late!

**One of the flaws of the Philips. It turns off after a scheduled
recording, whether it was on or off when the it started to record.

>PS: If you already own one... The best performance is /not/ always achieved
>with the receiver antenna directly in line with the transmitter. I don't
>know why.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 5:36 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> EVen when holding the remote in my hand, I've noticed
> that the Philips DVDR is more picky than the VCR I had.
> I have to point it just right to get the DVDR to do anything.

Check the battery in the DVDR remote.

> So I'm going to get an emitter that plugs into the
> Leapfrog receiver. Maybe that will do it.

I require a supplemental emitter to "hit" the SACD player. The transponder
receiver sits too high.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 7:15 pm
From: mm

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:36:52 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> EVen when holding the remote in my hand, I've noticed
>> that the Philips DVDR is more picky than the VCR I had.
>> I have to point it just right to get the DVDR to do anything.
>
>Check the battery in the DVDR remote.

Thanks. I'm pretty sure it's been that way from the start, and also
when I replaced the battery. But I'll pay closer attention.
>
>
>> So I'm going to get an emitter that plugs into the
>> Leapfrog receiver. Maybe that will do it.
>
>I require a supplemental emitter to "hit" the SACD player. The transponder
>receiver sits too high.

Uh huh. Okay.

Thanks

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Remote codes for Mysterion DVD player
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c5c5bfd666812c1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 4:32 pm
From: Xin Hua

Hi,

I have an Inovix IDP-1500 DVD player. The puppies have chewed the
remote to pieces, so we got a cheap universal remote. Unfortunately,
"Inovix" (a now defunct own-brand for Viking Office Supplies
electronics) isn't listed in the list of famous-name DVD player remote
codes that comes with the new (universal) remote.

* Does anyone recommend any (annotated) online lists of remote codes?

* Does anyone know who actually manufactured the Inovix IDP-1500 DVD
player? ("Who is Mysterion?")

Regards,

Xin Hua

P.S. The universal remote controller we got is a URC22B. Codes we've
discovered so far for the Inovix (barely usable -- the button functions
are scrambled) are: 0645, 0654, 3000, 3014 (best so far), and 3017

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4953a0bce8e05d0e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 4:34 pm
From: mm

Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light from a separate
remote control.

The one I bought has a translucent red plastic head but doesn't say it
is, but another one does say so. Is the second one just better at
marketing?

Online I bought a 3-headed IR emitter, like is used when the AV
equipment is kept in a cabinet, and I was very happy.

Then I looked at another one and it said " They're made of material
that's transparent to IR light, so commands can still pass directly to
individual components if desired."

Details.
This is a PREMIUM IR Extender Hidden Infrared Repeater System Kit and
its description includes: "The 4 emitters included can control many
different A/V devices. They're made of material that's transparent to
IR light, so commands can still pass directly to individual components
if desired. You may stick the emitter over the IR emitter on each
component, or place on the shelf in front of the component if you
prefer - they're powerful enough to get the signal to the component."

But when you click on the emitter, which is sold separately also, it
says none of this!
http://www.cmple.com/p-209-dual-ir-emitter-mini-stick-on-infrared-emitters-blink-eye.aspx

I hope they are all IR-transparent like this one, especially the one I
bought an hour ago. To work with the Leapfrom or whatever I end up
with.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PAYPAL payment wholesale SHOES(UGG BOOTS, Timberland boots ,Munich
shoes,NIKE and so on) free shipping http://www.24hour-buy.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/afaa8045c9efbeab?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 4:36 pm
From: amy

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KV27EXR20 Sound no picture
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41a66d907546cb08?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 5:07 pm
From: mnpinball

I have a Sony KV27EXR20 and am experiencing sound without picture.
I had replaced IC651 STRS6301 and other caps on the G-board.

The tube glows and has power, once the set was plugged in and powered
on it went to degauss mode and you feel static on the glass.

Your help is appreciated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 6:23 pm
From: mnpinball

After looking at some other posts of the same problem, I also left the
TV on for a few minutes and the picture comes up. BUT, the picture
goes on then off and cycles like this every 2 seconds constantly.

Any help is appreciated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Batteries That Do Not Leak w/Age?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd55784ea36aafe5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 6:01 pm
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
with age?

I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
flashlight.

If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
replacement interval for size "C" cells?
--
PeteCresswell

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 6:12 pm
From: "Brenda Ann"

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
news:c4p0f6puc97m5gbkpnlst1ic9n52r4c63p@4ax.com...

Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
with age?

I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
flashlight.

If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
replacement interval for size "C" cells?
--
PeteCresswell

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Duracell batteries are the most notorious for leaking. Almost any brand is
better, but they'll all leak eventually. If a flashlight isn't used much, I
would say the batterie should be able to go about a year between changes. If
it's used a lot, perhaps 6 months or until the batteries discharge. If you
leave the flashlight on until the batteries discharge, all bets are off.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 26 2010 8:23 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 21:01:43 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
> Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
> with age?
>
> I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
> flashlight.
>
> If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
> replacement interval for size "C" cells?

And, can anyone suggest a good technique to extract bad, swollen
"C" batteries (accumulators) out of a Mag-Lite flashlight (torch)?

Lately I've been thinking "a good old fashioned cork-screw!"

The flashlight (torch) looks ok otherwise...

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