sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 14 topics - digest

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/66f1f37d43d98397?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 4:32 pm
From: amy

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TOPIC: Tripp Lite PR60 power supply problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7dfcf0c7725c59ff?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 4:41 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Dec 1, 4:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 13:28:11 -0800, klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> > On Dec 1, 3:53 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 12:35:56 -0800, klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> >> > On Dec 1, 3:11 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> >> On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 11:54:20 -0800, klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> >> >> > Someone gave me one of these that he says smoked. I found a small
> >> >> > burned diode, (looks like a 1N4000 series size) on the regulator
> >> >> > board.This diode was soldered accross C1 with the cathode
> >> >> > connected to the positive terminal of C1.This part looks like it
> >> >> > must have been a production change as all other parts are labled
> >> >> > on the board but this one the board is not labled for it and so it
> >> >> > looks like it was a factory modification. Tripp Lite won't help me
> >> >> > at all with this problem. So I was hoping that someone might have
> >> >> > run into this before who might have any information on this and/or
> >> >> > perhaps a schematic that they could share. Thanks for any help.
> >> >> > Lenny
>
> >> >> What happens when you replace the diode?
>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
> >> > WelI I haven't replaced it as of yet because I don't know if it was
> >> > just a diode or a zener. And not knowing this and what else might be
> >> > wrong I wouldn't want to compound the problem. Lenny
>
> >> If it's a zener it would be clamping voltage on a reg circuit. Not
> >> knowing what C1 is or does it's hard to say what its function is but I
> >> would take an educated guess and say it's not a zener. I suppose you'll
> >> need to figure out how C1 plays into the circuit. Personally I would
> >> ramp the source up using a variac and watch what kind of voltage
> >> developed where the cathode should be and take into consideration C1's
> >> rated voltage and maybe develop a schematic in my head.
>
> >> --
> >> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Yeah I don't think that its a zener either. Its just that with the
> > cathode on + it doesn't seem like it could be forward biased so what is
> > it doing there? I haven't tried to draw it out but this otherwise
> > appears to be a straight forward 723 based linear regulator circuit. The
> > way this thing is built though its virtually impossible to reverse
> > engineer it. I do like your idea of using the variac for testing. I have
> > a small variac but with a small load on the PR60 ouput I don't think it
> > should be much of a problem. It pisses me off how uncooperative most of
> > these manufacturers have gotten in the past few years. Back in the 60's
> > when I started in electronics you could get anything from most anyone.
> > Today you would think I was asking for state secrets.This is an obsolete
> > model. What the hell difference would it make to give me a schematic?
> > Not like I'm going to try to mass produce these things. I would just
> > like to get it going for myself. Lenny
>
> Years ago I bought a used Nady 201 that I wanted to switch channels.
> Requiredan xtal change and some tweaking of the RF circuits for both the
> xmitter and rxcvr. I finally got someone to talk to me at Nady. Even sent
> me some schematics. I called back maybe 2 weeks later and that person was
> no longer employed there. Seems at least back then it would take a
> Wikileak to get any info from Nady. This guy probably got the boot for
> giving me some tech literature. And Nady wanted back in around 1992 $69
> +S/H to re-channel the 201. I had the info on the xtal parameters and
> sent the data to Jan xtal. They made a new set of xtals for $14.99. Took
> me 5 minutes to align. Still have the units.
>
> Your diode might suppress some kind of transients in that config. May
> help C1 live longer, hard to tell.
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Maybee I'll replacethe diode with a 1N4004 lets say and plan on
possibly doingthe 723 as well. There are no shorted transistors on the
output so I guess we'll see. It can always go to the metal pile if
need be. Lenny

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 5:39 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I saw a reference to the T-L PR-60 PSU schematic being available at this
website (in 2005)
http://www.cbtricks.com/

I don't see the schematic listed, but an email to someone at CB Tricks may
be worthwhile.

Otherwise, a voltage regulator circuit isn't extremely complicated, and many
examples can be found in the ARRL Handbooks (library) or various online
plans.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4723da43-6efe-45b4-86a2-f2cec6dc402e@r31g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
> Someone gave me one of these that he says smoked. I found a small
> burned diode, (looks like a 1N4000 series size) on the regulator
> board.This diode was soldered accross C1 with the cathode connected to
> the positive terminal of C1.This part looks like it must have been a
> production change as all other parts are labled on the board but this
> one the board is not labled for it and so it looks like it was a
> factory modification. Tripp Lite won't help me at all with this
> problem. So I was hoping that someone might have run into this before
> who might have any information on this and/or perhaps a schematic that
> they could share. Thanks for any help. Lenny

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 5:54 pm
From: "tm"

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cNCJo.207847$zE6.38737@en-nntp-03.dc1.easynews.com...
>I saw a reference to the T-L PR-60 PSU schematic being available at this
>website (in 2005)
> http://www.cbtricks.com/
>
>

Is there a crowbar scr in there? It could be a zener used as an overvoltage
protector.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 6:49 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Dec 1, 8:39 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> I saw a reference to the T-L PR-60 PSU schematic being available at this
> website (in 2005)http://www.cbtricks.com/
>
> I don't see the schematic listed, but an email to someone at CB Tricks may
> be worthwhile.
>
> Otherwise, a voltage regulator circuit isn't extremely complicated, and many
> examples can be found in the ARRL Handbooks (library) or various online
> plans.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
> "klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:4723da43-6efe-45b4-86a2-f2cec6dc402e@r31g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > Someone gave me one of these that he says smoked. I found a small
> > burned diode, (looks like a 1N4000 series size) on the regulator
> > board.This diode was soldered accross C1 with the cathode connected to
> > the positive terminal of C1.This part looks like it must have been a
> > production change as all other parts are labled on the board but this
> > one the board is not labled for it and so it looks like it was a
> > factory modification. Tripp Lite won't help me at all with this
> > problem. So I was hoping that someone might have run into this before
> > who might have any information on this and/or perhaps a schematic that
> > they could share. Thanks for any help. Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I tried to register on their site but it was an excercise in
frustration. How would I contact anyone there?
Lenny

==============================================================================
TOPIC: low cost thermocouple DAQ that works with ubuntu linux tia sal22
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6df4cca829179f26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 5:14 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

tuinkabouter wrote:
> Op 30-11-2010 20:15, Rich Webb schreef:
>> On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:11:18 -0500, Phil Hobbs
>> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Glen Walpert wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 16:36:56 +0000, ratullloch_delthis wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Greetings All
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for a recommendation for a low cost thermocouple DAQ that
>>>>> works with ubuntu linux. Can someone recommend one. I'm trying to
>>>>> record temperture measurements over time. tia sal22
>>>>
>>>> http://www.mccdaq.com/daq-software/Linux-Support.aspx
>>>>
>>>> Single channel thermocouple to USB with linux support $99, multiple
>>>> channels more $.
>>>
>>> Thermocouples are really really horrible temperature sensors--almost as
>>> bad as ICs. Their advantages are small size, relatively low cost, and
>>> (potentially) high speed, but their disadvantage is that it's really
>>> hard to get good measurements.
>>>
>>> One reason for this is thermal conduction down the leads (which is a big
>>> problem for most temperature sensors). There's a worse one, though:
>>> due to their very low sensitivity, thermocouples are extremely
>>> vulnerable to errors caused by offset drift in the circuitry. See
>>> Figure 20.3 on P. 803 at
>>> http://electrooptical.net/www/book/draftthermal.pdf
>>
>> "Thermocouples generate a voltage related to the temperature difference
>> between two junctions of dissimilar metal wires, and are a pain in the
>> neck. ... For less specialized applications, avoid thermocouples
>> like fleas."
>>
>> Okay, now I'm going to *have* to buy that book!
>>
>
> Thermocouples are very linear and can messure upto 2320 degrees celsius.
>
> Nice table in the dutch wiki page.
> <https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/nl/wiki/Thermokoppel>
>

"Nice and linear" is in the eye of the beholder. They're a lot better
than thermistors, that's for sure.

And up in the orange-hot region you probably don't care if you're off by
a couple of degrees, but down near room temperature you usually do.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 5:21 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

Glen Walpert wrote:
> On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:15:28 -0500, Rich Webb wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:11:18 -0500, Phil Hobbs
>> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Glen Walpert wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 16:36:56 +0000, ratullloch_delthis wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Greetings All
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for a recommendation for a low cost thermocouple DAQ that
>>>>> works with ubuntu linux. Can someone recommend one. I'm trying to
>>>>> record temperture measurements over time. tia sal22
>>>>
>>>> http://www.mccdaq.com/daq-software/Linux-Support.aspx
>>>>
>>>> Single channel thermocouple to USB with linux support $99, multiple
>>>> channels more $.
>>>
>>> Thermocouples are really really horrible temperature sensors--almost as
>>> bad as ICs. Their advantages are small size, relatively low cost, and
>>> (potentially) high speed, but their disadvantage is that it's really
>>> hard to get good measurements.
>>>
>>> One reason for this is thermal conduction down the leads (which is a big
>>> problem for most temperature sensors). There's a worse one, though: due
>>> to their very low sensitivity, thermocouples are extremely vulnerable to
>>> errors caused by offset drift in the circuitry. See Figure 20.3 on P.
>>> 803 at http://electrooptical.net/www/book/draftthermal.pdf
>>
>> "Thermocouples generate a voltage related to the temperature difference
>> between two junctions of dissimilar metal wires, and are a pain in the
>> neck. ... For less specialized applications, avoid thermocouples like
>> fleas."
>>
>> Okay, now I'm going to *have* to buy that book!
>
> Yes, that is a good one, and I can't argue with Phil's assessment of TC
> accuracy, but "You can learn all you ever wanted to know about them from
> the Omega Engineering catalogue." is true only if you have no interest in
> how they actually work (as opposed to how to use them) or how to make a
> really good low drift TC measurement system with accurate CJC and high
> immunity to EMI, for instance.
>
> There are many trade-offs in sensor selection, and thermocouples excel in
> temperature range and durability as well as (sometimes) speed. A TC can
> be smashed flat with a hammer and suffer no loss in accuracy until the
> wires break, or welded to metal parts for excellent thermal contact with
> the part being measured, for instance. Try that with a thermistor :-).
>

You can solder RTDs down, which is about the same thing. And the
circuit details aren't really information about the _sensor_--any
sufficiently poor sensor will have those problems.

I've used thermocouples reasonably often, generally running inside an
evaporator or someplace like that, and attached to a Fluke thermocouple
thermometer with built-in cold junction compensation. That was probably
good to a couple of degrees, which was all I really needed, especially
since I didn't have to replace the TCs, so the measurements correlated
pretty well over time.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 5:24 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

Bob Masta wrote:
> On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:11:18 -0500, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>
>> Glen Walpert wrote:
>>> On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 16:36:56 +0000, ratullloch_delthis wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greetings All
>>>>
>>>> I'm looking for a recommendation for a low cost thermocouple DAQ that
>>>> works with ubuntu linux. Can someone recommend one. I'm trying to
>>>> record temperture measurements over time. tia sal22
>>>
>>> http://www.mccdaq.com/daq-software/Linux-Support.aspx
>>>
>>> Single channel thermocouple to USB with linux support $99, multiple
>>> channels more $.
>>
>> Thermocouples are really really horrible temperature sensors--almost as
>> bad as ICs. Their advantages are small size, relatively low cost, and
>> (potentially) high speed, but their disadvantage is that it's really
>> hard to get good measurements.
>>
>> One reason for this is thermal conduction down the leads (which is a big
>> problem for most temperature sensors). There's a worse one, though:
>> due to their very low sensitivity, thermocouples are extremely
>> vulnerable to errors caused by offset drift in the circuitry. See
>> Figure 20.3 on P. 803 at http://electrooptical.net/www/book/draftthermal.pdf
>
> Not to mention that they involve a reference junction for
> which you must know the temperature. Unless you have an ice
> bath handy, this involves an independent non-thermocouple
> sensor like a thermistor, diode, or IC. So just use that
> instead! (Unless you need really high temperatures.)
>
> One good thing about TCs is that they don't need typically
> calibration... they are supposed to conform to a standard
> for the TC type (J, K, R, S etc). You just measure the
> output voltage, correct for the reference junction
> temperature, and look up the temperature for that voltage.
> Accuracy is typically +/-2 degrees C. But the voltages are
> really small: 1 mv or less at room temperature (0.10 mV
> for R or S types).
>
> I'd say, save the thermocouples for the really hot stuff.
> For "normal" temperatures (say, freezing to boiling water
> ranges), you can get much better precision and accuracy, not
> to mention convenience, from an IC.

If all you need is a degree or two's accuracy near room temperature,
almost any method will work. IC temperature sensors are generally
fairly putrid--slow, inaccurate, and noisy.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Roland XP 60 , 5 octave keyboard , 1997
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3078908fbe1e3ff8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 7:38 am
From: mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike)

In article <pan.2010.11.30.14.37.03@lmao.lol.lol>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>that a standard 34 pin floppy would
>interchange regardless of the unit.

In the early days of floppy interfaces, before PCs style drives became "the
standard", there were many annoying little variations that could stop a
floppy drive working when swapped about. Much of that persists in non-standard
drives used on things like keyboards. Why should they strive for compatibility
with PCs when we can avoid it and charge extra for a "special" drive?

It used to be that a floppy drive had multiple jumper sets (0.1") that could
be strapped to configure them, often to do with things like the logic around
which Drive Select (0,1,2,3) and whether the "motor enable" line would be
used. Some host systems didn't assert motor enable, so the drive would be
jumpered to run off JUST the drive select.

It was PCs, I think, that introduced the idea of no jumpers, no drive select,
just put a twist in the cable, which limited you to 2 "identical" drives. The
proper floppy spec allowed for 4, but each drive was jumpered differently, and
connected totally in parallel.

This is before you get into weird drives that ran at 300 vs 600rpm and
that sort of thing, where to use them with a PC, some components needed to be
changed to re-set the rotation speed and frequency response to the data being
read back.

--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 7:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Mike wrote:
>
> In article <pan.2010.11.30.14.37.03@lmao.lol.lol>,
> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >that a standard 34 pin floppy would
> >interchange regardless of the unit.
>
> In the early days of floppy interfaces, before PCs style drives became "the
> standard", there were many annoying little variations that could stop a
> floppy drive working when swapped about. Much of that persists in non-standard
> drives used on things like keyboards. Why should they strive for compatibility
> with PCs when we can avoid it and charge extra for a "special" drive?
>
> It used to be that a floppy drive had multiple jumper sets (0.1") that could
> be strapped to configure them, often to do with things like the logic around
> which Drive Select (0,1,2,3) and whether the "motor enable" line would be
> used. Some host systems didn't assert motor enable, so the drive would be
> jumpered to run off JUST the drive select.
>
> It was PCs, I think, that introduced the idea of no jumpers, no drive select,
> just put a twist in the cable, which limited you to 2 "identical" drives. The
> proper floppy spec allowed for 4, but each drive was jumpered differently, and
> connected totally in parallel.

In the XT and early AT days the floppy controller boards could handle
two sets of two drives. Some controllers could be set to one of four
addresses for a maximum of 16 floppy drives on one computer.

> This is before you get into weird drives that ran at 300 vs 600rpm and
> that sort of thing, where to use them with a PC, some components needed to be
> changed to re-set the rotation speed and frequency response to the data being
> read back.
>
> --
> --------------------------------------+------------------------------------
> Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 2 2010 12:37 am
From: "N_Cook"

Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:cL6dnb59ZJzykmrRnZ2dnUVZ_j-dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> Mike wrote:
> >
> > In article <pan.2010.11.30.14.37.03@lmao.lol.lol>,
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > >that a standard 34 pin floppy would
> > >interchange regardless of the unit.
> >
> > In the early days of floppy interfaces, before PCs style drives became
"the
> > standard", there were many annoying little variations that could stop a
> > floppy drive working when swapped about. Much of that persists in
non-standard
> > drives used on things like keyboards. Why should they strive for
compatibility
> > with PCs when we can avoid it and charge extra for a "special" drive?
> >
> > It used to be that a floppy drive had multiple jumper sets (0.1") that
could
> > be strapped to configure them, often to do with things like the logic
around
> > which Drive Select (0,1,2,3) and whether the "motor enable" line would
be
> > used. Some host systems didn't assert motor enable, so the drive would
be
> > jumpered to run off JUST the drive select.
> >
> > It was PCs, I think, that introduced the idea of no jumpers, no drive
select,
> > just put a twist in the cable, which limited you to 2 "identical"
drives. The
> > proper floppy spec allowed for 4, but each drive was jumpered
differently, and
> > connected totally in parallel.
>
>
> In the XT and early AT days the floppy controller boards could handle
> two sets of two drives. Some controllers could be set to one of four
> addresses for a maximum of 16 floppy drives on one computer.
>
>
> > This is before you get into weird drives that ran at 300 vs 600rpm and
> > that sort of thing, where to use them with a PC, some components needed
to be
> > changed to re-set the rotation speed and frequency response to the data
being
> > read back.
> >
> > --
>
> --------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
-
> > Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
>
>
> --
> For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
> scientist!!!

I did notice 3 or 4 submin 2 or 3 way slide switches inside that Roland
Panasonic FDD, gives a goodly number of permutations

==============================================================================
TOPIC: paypal payment cheap discount wholesale Nike Air Max Light Retro
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77d70a374e2bd70?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Transistor Identification and Selection Component ID
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6242ff3ed89d79fe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 6:17 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"AC Me" <mmalone@gofree.indigo.ie> wrote in message
news:3b123691-e1f2-4bc0-9f01-5337fdf46eb9@g25g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 1, 10:21 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> "tm" <the_obamun...@whitehouse.gov> wrote in message
>>
>> news:id1uut$o1c$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > "Brenda Ann" <newsgro...@fullspectrumradio.org> wrote in message
>> >news:btOdnU1if5Mb72nRnZ2dnVY3goWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>
>> >> "tm" wrote in messagenews:id1q56$ag1$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>>
>> >> "Colin Horsley" <horsley-s...@westnet.com.au> wrote in message
>> >>news:1JWdnVPC1MTs_2nRnZ2dnUVZ7s-dnZ2d@westnet.com.au...
>> >>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> >>>news:VyYIo.17753$n61.994@newsfe26.ams2...
>> >>> :
>> >>> :
>> >>> : "Colin Horsley" <horsley-s...@westnet.com.au> wrote in message
>> >>> :news:q5qdnUjcevX412nRnZ2dnUVZ8mSdnZ2d@westnet.com.au...
>> >>> : > "Smitty Two" <prestwh...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> >>> :
>> >>> >news:prestwhich-1D8263.07513229112010@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >>> : > : In article
>> >>> <GIMIo.452466$iV7.419...@en-nntp-15.dc1.easynews.com>,
>> >>> : > : "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
>> >>> : > :
>> >>> : > : > What would be a good choice for the transistor shown in this
>> >>> : > schematic?
>> >>> : > : >
>> >>> : > : >http://www.xkcd.com/730/
>> >>> : > : > Cheers,
>> >>> : > : > WB
>> >>> : > : > .............
>> >>> : > :
>> >>> : > : Geranium.
>> >>> : >
>> >>> : > Geranium is a flower.
>> >>> : > Germanium is an element.
>> >>> : >
>> >>> : > Colin
>> >>> :
>> >>> : You didn't go look, did you ? :-)
>> >>> :
>> >>> : Arfa
>>
>> >>> The good lady is a Florist, I thought I'd transfer some of her
>> >>> knowledge......
>> >>> and, yes, I did look...
>> >>> CH
>>
>> >> It doesn't matter anyway, the correct answer is Silicone.
>>
>> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> >> Should be a MOSSfet. :)
>>
>> > Did anyone solve the resistor network problem yet?
>>
>> > tm
>>
>> Yeah, I did. The correct answer is a 6 inch nail ...
>>
>> Arfa
>
> Ah, but what tolerance? +/-3 milliliters?
>
> Mike

Where are you finding 6 inch nails with that sort of tolerance ? Best I can
get here are +/- 10 lumens ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Another Poor Lead-Free Solder Example Chinese Hand Soldering
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9889a3d8224566e3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 6:34 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I often look at Chinese merchandise as whether the parts may actually be a
worthwhile purchase, as the actual item is likely to perform very poorly for
it's intended use.
A lot of this type of merchandise can be considered "kit parts" for other
uses.

A recent purchase is an example of this reasoning. A physically large
rechargeable spotlight packaged as a 2 million candlepower spotlight.. $12
at a local discount retail store.

Halogen lamp (H3 6V 100W), large reflector, 6V SLA battery, miscellaneous
plastic parts held together with low grade hardware, AC/DC adaptor for
charging (9V 300mA), car lighter-socket adapter cable, etc.

The battery, case and reflector appeared to be a good starting point for a
powerful LED project.
A good reflector is fairly vital in being able to "throw" the light from
LEDs.

Looking inside the case, the wire connections appear to be secure, the
quick-disconnect terminals are insulated (rubbery boot covers) with latching
terminals, and soldered connections are covered with shrink tubing.

I've experienced very poor/awful/faulty solder connections in almost every
Chinese product I've seen, where hand soldering is utilized.

As I removed the shrink from the hand soldered connections (slice with razor
knife, low force removal), 2 of the connections separated immediately.

The lead-free solder was dull grey with traces of white colored surface
material looking like oxidation.. as Nigel has observed, something that
looks like it was stored for a long time in an outdoor shed (exposed to high
moisture levels to cause a lot of oxidation).
The solder blobs had the appearance of dried miniature globs of flat, dark
grey paint.

Neither the package or the product had lead-free symbols, but this is
obviously what was used.

Any time I buy electronic or electrical products from China, India or other
poor countries, I disassemble them and check all the connections thoroughly.
This generally leads to resoldering nearly all of the connections that have
been done by hand originally.
When checking line powered devices, the poor quality has been the same, just
more critical as a fire or shock hazard would likely exist if a connection
separated during use.

I'm old enough to remember when there were reasonable standards for
attaching a wire to a terminal (even in consumer grade gear), whereby the
wire would first make an electrically secure mechanical connection to a
terminal (most often by passing the wire thru an eyelet and wrapping the
wire tightly around the terminal at least one turn), before solder was added
to insure that the connection was permanent.

In recent decades, laying a tinned wire end on a terminal, and briefly
applying heat with a soldering iron tip, has become a manufacturing standard
of quality.

I realize that the Chinese workers probably work in conditions that most of
the rest of us wouldn't tolerate, essentially under slave-like working
conditions.

I do feel remorse when I purchase stuff made in China.. not only for the
Chinese workers, but for the unemployed Americans, and the deaths of
military personnel in previous wars, where the communist Chinese (and
Russians) were backing the other countries.

Lately, I limit my impulse-purchases of such stuff to cheap novelty-type
items or other items that may be useful for kit parts.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Emachines Motherboard Failure Loss Of Onboard Video No Startup T3410
Desktop PC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/89c065f832dd79ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 8:00 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

A friend's Emachine T3410 began displaying incorrect/odd colors and then the
video output stopped. He didn't mention the "funny colors" to me, only that
it had happened, and that now there was no video.

After substituting a known good PSU in the machine (with the HDD and DVD
disconnected), I've concluded that the onboard CPU supply is bad or another
mainboard fault, and that the (maybe 4.5 year old) machine should be
replaced.
I did advise my friend that a new m-bd and CPU combo could be bought for
about $60, so it's up to him.

I checked the HDD with a USB external case, and it appears to be fine.
It's possible that the RAM may be damaged, but it's only one DIMM (DDR 400
512M).

I bought a new (unused) FIC m-bd kit (included new CPU and CPU cooler) of
the same model number/type, and installed it along with a known good PSU and
a new 512MB DIMM.

This was a fairly expensive repair for a not-so-great PC, but the friend
wasn't forced to buy, then learn a new system.. for the time being, anyway.

The system started and operated for about an hour, so it was shut off, and
the old 512MB DIMM was installed and the system restarted. All Seemed to be
fine, so the DIMM was left in, making the physical memory a whopping 1GB.

I noticed that the new m-bd didn't start up immediately when the AC power
cord was connected, which the existing m-bd had done (which should've been
seen as a clue, but I didn't know the normal operation of the machine).

(previous steps, previously written)
Visual inspection revealed a very clean m-bd, CPU fan/heatsink, and no signs
of electrolytic capacitor electrolyte leakage, staining or swelling/bulged
tops. No visible signs of any overheating or discoloration anywhere.

I did try another known-good LCD monitor, and have researched the video
symptoms, where I found numerous other similar problems for the same model
and changing screen colors before loss of video (video integrated into
motherboard).
Those problems and solution were dated several years ago, so many of these
FIC K8MC51G have probably died and been replaced by now.

The solutions I found were all similar.. problem corrected by installing a
separate video card and entering BIOS setup to disable the onboard video.

I admit stupidity and lack of experience in this situation, as I've always
built my machines in the past, and never used an integrated motherboard
(until my present store-bought machine).

I read the Emachine FIC K8MC51G motherboard's specs, and they show the video
specs as:
On board Controller Embedded in nVidia C51G / Add on interface 1x PCIe by
16.
http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx

I took this to mean that the PCI-E x16 slot was intended (best choice?) for
video upgrading, so I bought a video card that matched the specs, $10 on
eBay, not from this website, but it shows the details.
http://www.cwc-group.com/td128e.html

MSI ATI Radeon X600 Pro PCI-Express Video Card (other than only DirectX 9,
as good as a newer card), essentially the same specs as the onboard video,
it was just chosen for replacement, not intended to be a great improvement
upgrade.
Of course, installing the new video card didn't correct the problem.

The m-bd electrolytic caps had no visible defects, but I didn't remove the
board to check ESR readings.. but now I suspect that some are bad, after R&R
of the PSU.

The other slots that are available on the uATX FIC K8MC51G MB are 1 PCIe x1
slot and 1 PCI (a second PCI is occupied by 56k modem card, but not
utilized).

I would just recommend replacing the machine with another new one, except
for one reason.. this is the friend's first PC, and he has become somewhat
comfortable with using it (XP home edition x32).
He doesn't use his PC frequently, or for long durations, so he's not really
an experienced PC user.

I know there are numerous solutions to putting his XP OS and saved data into
another machine, but I was hoping to revive the existing machine so he could
find a deal on a better machine and ease into the new machine at his
leisure. That may seem a bit far-fetched or unrealistic.. but then I've
never had a machine just die, forcing me to adjust to a new one (lucky boy,
I am).

Another alternative would be to try to buy a new exact replacement FIC
motherboard, which would then reside in a case with an older PSU, so that
isn't the ultimate solution, either.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PS/2-to-AT keyboard adapter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8e9826e9e554abf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 8:31 pm
From: NoEmailAds@execpc.com (Chris Giese)

Hi,

Do PC keyboards with "AT" connectors (the big 5-pin DIN plug)
use the same voltage levels and signalling as keyboards with
PS/2 connectors?

Will a PS/2 keyboard work if I cut off the PS/2 plug, solder
on an AT connector, and plug it into an old PC?

Otherwise, where do I get one of these? (Jameco P/N 189771):
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=189771&catalogId=10001&freeText=189771&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

(Despite being listed as available, it is not.)

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 9:06 pm
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

Chris Giese wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Do PC keyboards with "AT" connectors (the big 5-pin DIN plug)
> use the same voltage levels and signalling as keyboards with
> PS/2 connectors?
>
> Will a PS/2 keyboard work if I cut off the PS/2 plug, solder
> on an AT connector, and plug it into an old PC?
>
> Otherwise, where do I get one of these? (Jameco P/N 189771):
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=189771&catalogId=10001&freeText=189771&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
>
> (Despite being listed as available, it is not.)

The adapter in the picture is exactly the opposite of what you need.
It's for using a PS/2 keyboard with an old AT motherboard. You
instead
need something like this:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=ps2+at+keyboard+adapter&_sacat=See-All-Categories

There are also rigid 1-piece adapters at Ebay, but I prefer something
with a
short cable because it doesn't stick out so far in back, and a rigid
adapter
makes it easy to snap off the PS/2 socket on the motherboard.

I use an old IBM Model M keyboard with AT cable and have it plugged
into
an adapter cable that fits the PS/2 socket of my ATX motherboard.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 9:36 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Chris Giese wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Do PC keyboards with "AT" connectors (the big 5-pin DIN plug)
> use the same voltage levels and signalling as keyboards with
> PS/2 connectors?
>
> Will a PS/2 keyboard work if I cut off the PS/2 plug, solder
> on an AT connector, and plug it into an old PC?
>
> Otherwise, where do I get one of these? (Jameco P/N 189771):
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=189771&catalogId=10001&freeText=189771&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
>
> (Despite being listed as available, it is not.)

Those were shipped with a lot of keyboards and sold in computer
stores for years. Call a few computer shops or hit thrift stores.

Here is one on Ebay for 99 cents and free shipping:

<http://cgi.ebay.com/PS-2-Keyboard-Adapter-Mini-Din-6-F-Din-5-M-/380294544457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588b523c49>

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 10:27 pm
From: D Yuniskis

Hi Chris,

Chris Giese wrote:

> Do PC keyboards with "AT" connectors (the big 5-pin DIN plug)
> use the same voltage levels and signalling as keyboards with
> PS/2 connectors?

Yes -- more or less. I.e., given that you are connecting to
an "old PC", don't expect any of the "magic buttons" common on
newer keyboards to work. In fact, don't "expect" anything
from them (including expecting them to be IGNORED).

There are a couple of different keyboard interface protocols
that the keyboard controller will/should support. Depending on
how ancient your PC is, how the BIOS handles them may vary.

Be advised many *OLD* machines didn't tolerate the keyboard
being unplugged/plugged while powered on (older keyboards
consumed more power and this often lead to the keyboard
fuse -- in the PC -- blowing; doubtful a problem with a newer
keyboard).

> Will a PS/2 keyboard work if I cut off the PS/2 plug, solder
> on an AT connector, and plug it into an old PC?

Depends on what you call "old". E.g., I have still some Compaq
Portable III's here (286 lunchbox).

> Otherwise, where do I get one of these? (Jameco P/N 189771):
>
> (Despite being listed as available, it is not.)

Your local computer supply place will have them. Maybe even
rat shak.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 2 2010 12:32 am
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

Oops. You did choose the right adapter after all. I got it wrong
because all my good keyboards are the AT type with the big plug, so I
never assumed anybody would need an adapter for an AT motherboard. :(

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HS-U580 Mitsubishi RF output issue
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b13fb4c0caeca33?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 9:45 pm
From: bob u

On 11/30/2010 4:58 PM, David Farber wrote:
> bob u wrote:
>> had this nice VCR i sold to a customer
>> I set it up in his house and it was fine
>> 2 weeks latter he is having issues
>>
>> i got it back and tested it.
>> through the line outputs it seems to work fine
>> through the RF CH4 modulated output, its a blue screen
>> It seems the modulator is putting out a carrier,
>> but no information. If i do the TV/VCR switch, i can see
>> the TV channels OK on the TV with pass through mode.
>> I don't have the manual on this beast.
>> I checked the menu, and there is a way to disable the RF mod
>> in the set up menu. I double checked it, and its enabled.
>> I even toggled it for good measure.
>>
>> This does not sound like a modulator issue, but i am kind of
>> stumped on this without further information. Anybody got any ideas
>> on this or have a PDF manual on the HS-U580?
>>
>> bob
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I'd check the caps first. Maybe a few are leaking and wreaking havoc on the
> circuit board. Is the audio missing as well? Just to make sure I understand
> your problem, is the screen also blue when playing a tape as well as going
> through the tuner?
>
yes, its blue with no audio on both VCR tuner and VCR tape.
But they both work on the Video line output jacks.

bob

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Spyware removal
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8371970c72652e9a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 9:48 pm
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> Is there a spyware removal program, (preferably a free one), available
> to download that I can trust that won't just load more crap onto my
> poor suffering machine?

It seems SuperAntiSpyware is among the most thorough: www.SuperAntiSpyware.com

Malware Bytes sometimes helps when nothing else works: www.malwarebytes.org

The free versions of the above two programs have to be run manually,
but the free versions of the programs below are meant to provide full-
time protection, although such protection often lets malware through,
and apparently occasional manual scans should be done with any
security program:

Microsoft's own Security Essentials is good: www.microsoft.com/security_essentials/

There's Avast!, which a lot of people like: www.avast.com

Avira has done well in some tests: www.avira.com

Probably the most popular free antivirus is AVG: www.free.avg.com

If you're running Windows 98, try www.OldVersion.com for older
versions of programs. I used AVG ver. 7.x with 98SE, and last year
the virus definitions were still being updated, but 8.x refused to
work with 98SE, even though 7.x kept telling me to upgrade to it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: BETS HOT PHOTOS & VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f75a4e67ec93ba2c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 11:05 pm
From: SAILAJA LOVES U

http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/search/label/bipasa
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/search/label/thrisha
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/search/label/srisha
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: http://123maza.com/35/purpose854/
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f78f223c02da22b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 1 2010 11:56 pm
From: Sivakumar durai

Money making company

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Special offer for internet users!!!!!!!!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b55fa2195ba5ef20?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 2 2010 12:10 am
From: Sivakumar durai

http://123maza.com/35/purpose854/

==============================================================================

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